I started out as a Leave No Trace Trainer back in 2006. In 2019, I got certified as a Leave No Trace Master Educator (now called a Level 2 Instructor). In this post I’ll help you understand the basics of Leave No Trace including:

• What is Leave No Trace? What does it mean?
• Why is Leave No Trace important?
• The 7 principles of Leave No Trace and how to implement them

What is Leave No Trace?

After noticing increased impacts like trash and campfire scars on heavily used trails in the Sierra Nevada mountains of California, the US Forest Service developed the 7 Principles of Leave No Trace in the 1960s. Since then, Leave No Trace (often shortened to LNT) has become a registered non-profit with chapters around the world.

The idea behind the principles is to leave nature as unchanged by our presence as possible, so that future generations can enjoy it too. In essence, the purpose of Leave No Trace is to keep the wilderness wild.

I’ve heard people dismiss the idea of Leave No Trace as pointless since it’s impossible not to leave tiny traces wherever we go. However, those people are missing the point – we are looking for progress, not perfection. The principles of Leave No Trace guide us to leave as little impact as we can.

Why is Leave No Trace Important?

As more and more people chose to hike and camp and camp in wilderness areas, lessening our impact is becoming more important. In many areas some trails are getting loved to death by large crowds, garbage and environmental damage. This was especially true during the pandemic.

I firmly believe that nature is for everyone. Both experienced outdoors-people and newbies deserve to experience the outdoors.

But in order for that to happen, we all need to learn a bit more about how to be responsible hikers and campers. Remember that we were all beginners once.

My Introduction to Leave No Trace

On one of my first backpacking trips I washed the crusty noodles out of my pot… into a tiny alpine stream. I was surprised when they just sank to the bottom instead of magically flowing away (like they would in my sink at home).

I knew I was doing it wrong… but I didn’t know what else to do.  It was an important moment for me. I realized that I didn’t know what I didn’t know.. and that I needed to learn more about how to treat the wilderness. I did some research and learned about the Leave No Trace principles.

Maybe you’ve had a similar a-ha moment. Did you see trash in a campsite? Were you concerned about overcrowding in a National Park? Did you come across unburied human poop?

We all start somewhere in our Leave No Trace journey. It’s ok to admit you didn’t know. But we can all take a bit of time to learn how to do better next time.

The 7 Principles of Leave No Trace

It’s important to know the seven principles of Leave No Trace. When I teach people about LNT, I find that the info sinks in better if they know the “why” and “how” behind each principle.

Remember that the 7 principles of Leave No Trace are not rules – they are guidelines that we can look to when we make decisions about how to behave outdoors.

Plan Ahead and Prepare

What Does Plan Ahead and Prepare Include: Research trail info, weather forecasts, park rules, and trail conditions before your hike.

Why: When you do some research before your hike, you are more likely to have a fun and SAFE hike. You will also minimize damage to nature.

How:

• Check the weather forecast and trail conditions to make sure you have the right gear and you are up to the challenges of the trail. (Read my guide to best weather apps for hikers.)
• Check local regulations to find out about closures, permits, fire regulations or other policies.
• Bring a first aid kit and the 10 essentials in case not everything goes according to plan.
• Avoid getting lost: bring a map and compass, a GPS and a trail description to stay on track.
• Repackage food to create less waste on the trail.

READ NEXT: 16 Things to do Before a Hike

Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

What Does Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Mean? Hike and camp on durable surfaces like rocks, gravel, and snow.

Why: Some surface like alpine meadows, marshes and bogs are just too fragile to withstand much impact. The vegetation in those areas can take years to grow, and then be destroyed by a few boot-prints.

How:

• Stay on the trail to prevent trampling vegetation. Walk through mud, not around it to avoid widening the trail. Don’t cut corners on switchbacks since that causes erosion.
• In areas with no trails, spread out your tracks to spread out the impact and avoid creating a new trail.
• Camp in a designated campsites or ones that have been used before. Remember the best campsites are found, not made. (You don’t need to dig trenches or cut trees.)
• If there are no designated or previously used campsites, camp on gravel, bare dirt, snow or dry grass to minimize your impact.
• Try to camp at least 200ft/70 m from water sources. The plants by lakes and streams very fragile. Animals need to access water to drink and your presence may scare them off or cause conflict.

Dispose of Waste Properly

What Does Dispose of Waste Properly Mean? Pack out all garbage and food scraps. Learn how to poop and wash the Leave No Trace way.

Why: Animals who learn to eat people food or human waste may stop eating their natural food or may attack people. It can also make wildlife sick. Garbage, poop and soap can pollute water, making it unsafe to drink or killing plants and fish. Plus garbage and poop on the trails looks disgusting!

How:

• Pack out your trash, including fruit peels and eggshells. They can take months to biodegrade and in the meantime they attract animals. I like to say “It it doesn’t grow there, it doesn’t go there.”
• Never burn your trash in a campfire. Some materials don’t burn very well so you might leave a mess.
• Wash dishes and yourself in biodegradable soap using your largest pot as a sink. Strain out any large particles then dump your dirty dishwater 200ft/70m from a water source. (Just because soap is biodegradable doesn’t mean it’s good for fish or plants so it shouldn’t go directly into the water source.) Try going without soap – sometimes a wet cloth or a scrubber is all you need.
• When possible, use an outhouse or pit toilet.
• If you have to poop and there is no outhouse, pick a spot 200ft/70m away from trails, campsites and water sources. (This keeps water sources clean so people won’t get sick.) Use a small trowel, a tent peg or a stick to dig a hole 6″/15cm deep, then bury your poop.
• Pack out your menstrual supplies. Learn more about how to camp and hike with your period.
• Pack out your dog’s poop in a plastic bag or bury in it just like you would human poop. Wild animals like to eat dog poop but it is full of bacteria and parasites that they aren’t used to. (Get more Leave No Trace tips for hiking with dogs.)
• Bring a ziploc bag to pack out your used toilet paper. If you packing it out grosses you out, be sure to bury it with your poop.  Another alternative is to use natural TP like moss, leaves, rocks or snow. (Snow is particularly refreshing!)

Leave What You Find

What Does Leave What You Find Mean? Leave natural and historical items like flowers, rocks, pictographs, artefacts, etc. where you find them. Don’t move them or bring them home with you.

Why: Leaving the trail the way you found it lets others enjoy it too. It also keeps ecosystems intact.

How:

• Leave flowers, rocks and historical artifacts where nature put them. Take a photo and then leave them for others to enjoy. If we all picked a flower or brought home a rock, there wouldn’t be any left.
• Good campsites are found, not made. Avoid building structures, cutting trees or digging trenches.
• Graffiti is never acceptable. 
• Don’t build extra inukshuks, rock stacks or cairns unless they are necessary as trail markers. Building rock stacks can confuse hikers who might they are trail markers. (Did you know many insects and animals live under rocks? When you move them you destroy their homes.)

Minimize Campfire Impacts

What Does Minimize Campfire Impacts Mean? Plan to cook over a stove, not a fire. If you do build a campfire, learn how to minimize your impact.

Why: Campfires can have negative impacts. They damage the soil and can lead to excessive firewood harvesting in sensitive areas. Plus forest fires are pretty terrible.

How:

• Always bring a stove instead of planning to cook on a fire. It’s quicker, more fuel efficient and has less impact on the wilderness.
• Consider having a campfire-free night by using a small lantern instead.
• Check regulations before you go to find out if fires are allowed. Many areas have fire bans in place during dry spells or to protect sensitive ecosystems like the alpine or grasslands where fires are not appropriate due to fragile soils, short growing seasons for plants, the ease of wildfire spreading and/or a lack of firewood.
• If you do make a fire, use an existing fire ring and avoid building new ones.
• Keep your fire small.
• Use dead wood that is already on the ground to avoid harming trees. (It burns better too.) Choose small sticks that you can break up with your hands.
• Put your fire out completely when you are done.

Respect Wildlife

What Does Respect Wildlife Mean? Give animals some space, and make sure your dog does too. Don’t let animals have human food.

Why:  The wilderness is the animals’ home and it deserves respect. They need enough space to maintain their natural behaviour and may attack if provoked. Dogs love the outdoors too but their prey-drive means they may harass wildlife.

How:

• Never feed animals. Your human food isn’t healthy for them and if they develop a taste for human food, they may lose their ability to find food naturally. Some cute animals like squirrels and whiskey jacks have learned to beg for food. Don’t give in!
• Don’t let animals have access to your food. Never leave food unattended. When camping safely store your food for the night inside a food locker or bear canister or learn how to properly hang it in a tree.
• Observe animals from a respectful distance. Use binoculars or the zoom lens on your camera to get a better look.
• Keep your dog on a leash and under control so they don’t chase or bother wildlife. You might think that it’s not a big deal for your dog to chase a squirrel… but if they chase a bear both you and your dog might think it’s a big deal! Research local rules before you go to find out if dogs are allowed and if leashes are required. (Get more tips for Leaving No Trace with your dog.)

READ NEXT: Bear Safety for Hikers, Campers and Backpackers

Be Considerate of Other Visitors

What Be Considerate of Other Visitors Mean? Keep the experience of other visitors in mind so that your actions don’t negatively impact someone else’s experience. Learn and follow trail and camp etiquette.

Why: We all need to share trails and campsites in order to let everyone experience the wilderness. Some people go hiking for fitness, others to socialize and others hike to spend time in nature. Respect the way that other people wish to experience the wilderness and try not to let your experience negatively impact theirs.

How:

• Yield to other users on the trail. Step off the trail to take breaks so you aren’t in someone’s way.
• Give other groups space at viewpoints or in camp. If there’s a popular photo spot, snap a few pics, then move aside so someone else can have their turn.
• Keep your voice low and avoid yelling. Keep your group together to avoid shouting back and forth. (You’re safer that way too.)
• Leave the music at home (or wear headphones if your life requires your own personal soundtrack). Most hikers and campers want to hear the sounds of nature, not music.
• Keep your group small to create less impact, take up less space and make less noise. A good guideline is no more than 8-10 people.

READ NEXT: 15 Ways to Avoid Crowded Hiking Trails

Final Thoughts

This is just a broad overview of how to Leave No Trace when hiking and camping. If you are interested in learning more about Leave No Trace you can visit leavenotrace.ca or lnt.org. On those sites you can also find listings for Leave No Trace awareness course providers in your area.

Keep Leave No Trace in mind when hiking and camp so we can all keep the wilderness wild.

READ NEXT:

• How to Leave No Trace With Dogs
• 16 Things to do Before a Hike
• Bear Safety for Hikers, Campers and Backpackers
• Tips for Safe Hiking in Wildfire Season
• The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

The post How to Leave No Trace (And Why it’s Important!) appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Tasmania has relatively few people and lots of wilderness areas, so it is just teeming with animals! I had so many amazing encounters with animals in the wild. If you know where to look, and have a little bit of patience, it’s actually fairly easy to see most Tasmanian wildlife without visiting a zoo or wildlife centre.

I travelled all over the state, so I’ve put together a big list of the best places to see wildlife in Tasmania. This post includes:

• Tips for ethical wildlife viewing
• Wildlife spotting tips
• A big list of which animals you can see in Tasmania
• Info on the 10 best places to see wildlife in Tasmania

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for your support! -Taryn

How to Ethically View Wildlife in Tasmania

Animals are amazing and a lot of us (me included) sometimes totally forget to be compassionate when faced with a cute animal. We want to get closer to them or even to touch them. But when we forget to think before we act, we can actually harm the animals we are so excited to see.

Whether through ignorance or deliberate action, tourists and tourism operators can end up hurting, harassing, or otherwise negatively impacting wildlife. Do your research before you participate in wildlife tourism. Here are my tips for ethical wildlife viewing.

1. Avoid Zoos

In general, zoos make me pretty sad. Even when the animals have large, natural looking enclosures, you know that they aren’t living their best life the way they would in the wild.

Some zoos have a conservation focus, housing breeding populations of endangered animals in the hopes of keeping the species alive.

But often, most zoos exist to profit off of using animals to entertain humans. And to me, that isn’t really fair to the animals since they didn’t sign-up for that.

2. Choose a Wildlife Sanctuary or Rehabilitation Centre Instead of a Zoo

If you must visit a zoo or wildlife park in Tasmania (or anywhere else in the world) do a bit of research before you go.

Look for facilities that have a good reputation for animal welfare, have rehabilitation programs for sick or injured animals, or participate in breeding programs for endangered animals.

Avoid zoos that allow you to pick up or pet animals for a fee. This is super stressful for the animals and is only done for profit. 

Full disclosure: I did visit one wildlife sanctuary in Tasmania, Trowunna Wildlife Sanctuary in the North West. It has an excellent reputation for caring for sick and injured native wildlife and is one of the most important breeding centres for endangered Tasmanian devils.

They only have native Tasmanian wildlife at the facility and don’t import animals specifically for display like many zoos. In general, I felt that I learned a lot about the animals from their guided tour and was impressed with their dedication to saving Tasmanian devils. However, they do allow visitors to hand feed their kangaroos and some of their enclosures were a bit small, so I have mixed feelings about my visit.

If you must visit a zoo in Tasmania, Trowunna is a good choice. From my research, Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary near Hobart and the Tasmanian Devil Unzoo on the Tasman Peninsula are other good options.

3. Choose an Ethical Wildlife Tour

I didn’t take any wildlife tours while I was in Tasmania, but it’s definitely on my list. Since I was in Tassie for over a month on each visit, I had lots of time to go out and try to see animals on my own, but most visitors don’t have time for that. That’s where an organized tour comes in.

When booking a tour, do your research and find a tour operator with an ethical reputation. Avoid tours that allow you to touch wild animals. Don’t support tour operators that feed or bait animals. And of course avoid tours that get too close to wildlife or harass them.

4. Don’t Get Too Close

I think the best (and most magical) way to see animals is in the wild. Thankfully in Tasmania that isn’t that hard. However, you need to be respectful when encountering animals.

Give wildlife plenty of space to do their thing. Use binoculars or the zoom lens for your camera for a better look instead of getting too close.

If the animal is acting nervous or staring at you, you’re probably uncomfortably close. To keep the right distance, use the rule of thumb: Close one eye and hold your thumb up in front of you. If your thumb doesn’t cover the animal, you’re too close.

5. Never Feed Wildlife

It should go without saying, but never feed wild animals. It’s not good for their digestive system and can make them sick. As well, it teaches them to rely on humans for food, which turns them into pests and disrupts their normal hunting and foraging behaviours. Make sure you secure your food and rubbish at night if you are camping, as it attracts animals as well. 

Read more about how to respect wildlife in my article about Leave No Trace.

Tips for Spotting Wildlife in Tasmania

1. Go at Dawn and Dusk

Many animals in Tasmania are nocturnal, meaning they sleep during the day are are active at night. Birds, ocean mammals and reptiles are active during the day, but pretty much all other animals are asleep.

You can go out at night with a flashlight (torch) but your light will startle the animals. For the best chance to see animals acting naturally, go out at dawn and dusk when there’s enough light to see. Many Tasmanian animals are the most active at that time as well.

2. Go For a Hike

Obviously parks are a great place to see wildlife in Tasmania. But if you hang around the visitor centre with everyone else, you won’t see as much as you will when you head off on a hike. Pick less travelled trails and walk quietly.

3. Stay Overnight

Since most Tasmanian animals are most active at night, book a night in a wilderness lodge or go camping. Once the sun starts to set, lots of animals will start showing up. Camping is even better than staying in a lodge since many animals have become habituated to people (and sadly to their food) and wander around without fear.

4. Listen Carefully

Don’t just look for animals, listen for them too. Kangaroos, wallabies and pademelons make thumping noises as they hop. Echidnas rustle in the bushes. Seals bark. Birds chirp and sing. And Tassie Devils… make horrible Tassie Devil sounds. Wait quietly and listen, you’ll be surprised at what you can see.

Which Animals Can You See in Tasmania?

Tasmania is home to most of the quintessentially Australian animals. But they also have a few endemic animals that live only in Tasmania, such as the Tasmanian Devil. It’s also worth noting that there are no dingoes or koalas in Tasmania – you’ll have to go to the Australian mainland to see them.

Here’s a brief rundown on some of the key animals you can see in Tasmania:

Tasmanian Devils

Known locally as Tassie devils or just devils, Tasmanian devils are the state’s most famous animal. They are about the size of a small dog (about 65cm/26″ long) and look pretty different than Taz, the cartoon version.

While they do make a pretty terrible noise, they don’t really attack people or other animals since they eat carrion (dead animals). Their vicious reputation comes from all the fighting they do with other devils over tasty, tasty carcasses. They are most active at night.

Tasmanian devils are currently endangered as their population has been decimated by a contagious facial tumour disease. That makes them very rare to see in the wild. Several wildlife parks have captive breeding programs to build up the devil population with healthy animals that are then released into the wild.

Best places to see Tasmanian devils in Tasmania: Maria Island, Tarkine region, Tasman peninsula

Kangaroos

These large hopping marsupials are the national animal of Australia. Kangaroos aren’t very common in Tasmania, but there are small populations of Eastern Grey Kangaroos.

They live in large groups, called mobs or troops and feed on grasses. The males can be up to 2m (6’6″) tall and really muscular, so make sure you keep your distance. Kangaroos are most active at night, as well as dawn and dusk.

Best places to see kangaroos in Tasmania: Maria Island, Narawntapu National Park

Wallabies

Wallabies are related to kangaroos, but they are smaller, growing to about 90cm (36″) on average. They eat grasses and leaves so you will usually see them in bushy areas. They travel alone or in small family groups, typically consisting of younger wallabies and their mother.

You can find wallabies all over Tasmania, including in suburban areas. The place we were housesitting had wallabies living in the bush across the street.

Best places to see wallabies in Tasmania: Cradle Mountain National Park, Fortescue Bay Campgrounds, Maria Island, and Bruny Island for white (albino) wallabies

Pademelons

Pademelons are also related to kanagroos and wallabies, but they are even smaller, standing about 50cm (20″) tall. They are shy little creatures so they can be hard to spot since they live in the forest.

It can be a bit tough to tell if you are looking at a pademelon or a small wallaby so here are some tips to tell the difference: Tasmanian pademelons have pointier noses, shorter more triangular ears and smaller back legs than wallabies.

Best places to see pademelons in Tasmania: Maria Island, Cradle Mountain National Park

Wombats

Before I went to Australia, I’d heard of wombats, but I wasn’t sure exactly what they looked like. It turns out they aren’t bats at all, but kind of a huge Australian gopher. They live underground in burrows but come out at night to munch on grasses.

I was surprised at how big wombats are – about 70cm/28″ in length. Fun fact: they have square poops.

Best places to see wombats in Tasmania: Maria Island, Cradle Mountain National Park

Possums

Tasmania has two main types of possums: the larger cat-sized brushtail possum and the smaller ringtail possum. (There are also tiny pygmy possums but they are hard to spot in the wild.)

Possums are marsupials that live in trees and are only active at night. Brushtails or brushies, are the most common and live pretty much everywhere from suburban Hobart to deep in the mountains.

Ringtailed possums are less common, a little bit smaller and have a white tipped tail that they keep curled up.

Possums are actually nuisance animals and will steal your food or garbage if you leave it out. We had a curious possum chew the lids of our water bottles one night on the Overland Track. When we camped at Wineglass Bay, a possum tried to carry our neighbour’s backpack away.

Best places to see possums in Tasmania: Overland Track in Cradle Mountain National Park, any neighbourhood at night

Echidnas

The spiky little echnida is Australia’s version of a hedgehog or porcupine… with a little bit of anteater thrown in. Echidnas have a long snout, perfect for sucking up ants and other bugs.

The Tasmanian version of the echidna has fur in between its spines to keep it warm. Fun fact: echidnas are marsupial mammals that lay eggs.

Best places to see echidnas in Tasmania: Cradle Mountain National Park, any hiking trail

Platypus

The platypus is a pretty unique creature. It has a duck-like bill, webbed feet, lives in the water and lays eggs, but its not a bird. Its a marsupial mammal!

Like many North Americans, I assumed platypuses would be beaver sized, but they’re actually really small, only about 45cm (18″) long.

Since they spend most of their time underwater or in their burrows, they can be hard to see. The best time to spot them is at dawn and dusk – look for the tell-tale bubbles on the surface as they swim, then watch for them to come up for air.

Best places to see platypus in Tasmania: Deloraine, Burnie

Little Penguins

Did you know you can see penguins in Tasmania? I had no idea before I went…. and then I was super excited since they are my favourite animal.

Also known as fairy penguins, little penguins are the world’s smallest penguin species at less than 30cm (12″) tall. Thousands of penguins nest in rookeries around Tasmania in the summer. The parents leave their chicks in burrows during they day then head out to sea to fish. At dusk they return home to feed their chicks, so that’s the best time of day to see them.

Penguins are very sensitive, so use only a red flashlight (torch) for penguin viewing and leave your dog at home.

Best places to see penguins in Tasmania: Lillico Beach, Burnie, Bruny Island

Birds

Tasmania is home to a LOT of bird species including migratory birds, sea birds, parrots and flightless birds. Some like the flightless Tasmanian Native Hen, are native only to Tasmania.

I’m not much of a birder, but I’m working on it. And I’m really bad at bird identification, so I won’t list them them here. But if you’re a bird nerd, definitely go look up the Kookaburra, Wedge-tailed Eagle, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo and the rare Forty-spotted Pardalote.

Best places to see birds in Tasmania: Sea cliffs, forests, national parks… depends on the type of bird.

Seals

There are several seal colonies on isolated rocks off the coast of Tasmania. There are two main types of seals: Australia fur seals and long-nosed fur seals. These big seals are closely related to sea lions and can “walk” on their back flippers to get around on land.

Since the seals live off-shore, the only way to see them is on a kayak or boat tour.

Best places to see seals in Tasmania: Tasman Peninsula, Freycinet Peninsula, Bruny Island

Dolphins and Whales

The east coast of Tasmania is along the migration route of Humpback whales and Southern Right whales, and they come in close enough that you can see them from land sometimes.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t in Tasmania during the migration season which occurs from May to July, and September to November for humpbacks, and from June to October for Southern Right whales. Common and Bottle-nosed dolphins are a frequent sight on the south east coast.

Best places to see dolphins and whales in Tasmania: Tasman Peninsula, Freycinet Peninsula, Bruny Island.

Snakes

There are only three types of snakes in Tasmania, and they are all poisonous. Thankfully none of them are aggressive and usually slither off quickly when they sense people approaching. It has been over 70 years since the last fatal snake bite in Tasmania and most people who are bitten are trying to either catch or kill snakes. If you leave them alone, they’ll leave you alone.

The three types of snake are the copperhead, tiger snake and white-lipped snake. They live pretty much everywhere in Tasmania so watch out for them on hiking trails throughout the state, especially on sunny days.

Best places to see snakes in Tasmania: Narawantapu National Park, Cradle Mountain National Park, Lake St. Clair National Park

Skinks

Skins are the most common lizards in Tasmania. They are usually quite small at about 10cm (4″) long with metallic skin. They eat bugs, so they are actually great to have around. You can see them everywhere in Tasmania, including in people’s front gardens. We had resident skinks on the patio at our house-sit.

Best places to see skinks in Tasmania: watch out for them sunning themselves on hiking trails on sunny days, especially on the boardwalks

Best Places to See Wildlife in Tasmania

You can spot common wildlife like skinks, birds and wallabies pretty much everywhere in Tasmania. But to see other wildlife, you’ll have to seek them out. Here are my picks for the 10 best places to see wildlife in Tasmania.

1. Tarkine Region and the West Coast

The remote West Coast and Tarkine Region in Tasmania’s North West is home to the world’s second largest temperate rainforest. It’s a wild area that is largely uninhabited and supports lots of wildlife. Since it is so remote, it supports one of the remaining wild populations of Tasmanian devils.

I took a road trip through the Tarkine and stopped for lots of hikes. One night at dusk in our campground in Arthur River we were lucky enough to see a Tasmanian Devil from about 100m away! It was the best wildlife sighting of our whole trip since it was so unexpected.

Animals You Can See in the Tarkine and the West Coast: Tasmanian Devils, birds, wallabies, pademelons

READ NEXT: The Ultimate Guide to the Tarkine Drive in Tasmania, Australia

2. Burnie

The North West coast town of Burnie is known as an industrial centre, but its actually still a good place to spot wildlife. You can watch penguins come ashore each night from October to March at the Penguin Observation Centre near the CBD. Volunteer guides are on hand to answer questions.

Head to Fern Glade Reserve just outside of Burnie for a great chance of spotting a platypus. There’s a short walking track along the river lined with fun interpretive signs to help you learn about platypuses.

Animals You Can See in Burnie: Little penguins, platypuses

3. Lillico Beach

Lillico Beach Conservation Area is located just 5 minutes from Devonport. There’s a large viewing platform equipped with special red lights that let you see little penguins without scaring them with bright lights.

Some of the penguin burrows are right next to the platform so you can get really close views of the chicks as their parents feed them dinner. Volunteer guides have additional red lights to help you see and can answer questions. You can generally find penguins here between September and April.

This penguin viewing area was just a few minutes drive from where we were house-sitting and I loved it so much we went about once a week!

Animals You Can See at Lillico Beach: Little penguins

4. Narawntapu National Park

This under-the-radar national park is located along the coast in between Devonport and Launceston. It’s been called the Serengeti of Tasmania, and I think it lives up to its reputation.

The open grassy areas near the visitor centre are great for spotting kangaroos. The campground has resident wallabies and Tasmanian Native Hens. If you hike the trails you’ll spot pademelons hiding in the bushes or snakes sunning themselves.

There’s also an elevated boardwalk that heads out to a bird hide on the lagoon where you can spy on ducks, black swans and other water birds.

Lastly, Narawntapu is reportedly still home to a small population of endangered Tasmanian devils.

Animals You Can See at Narawntapu National Park: Kangaroos, wallabies, pademelons, snakes, birds, Tasmanian devils

5. Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park

Set in the mountainous highland plateau of Tasmania, Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park should be on every wildlife tourist’s bucket list. There are tons of opportunities to see wildlife.

The Ronny Creek area near the entrance to Cradle Mountain park has a huge wombat and wallaby population. You’ll also spot lots of birds and maybe even an echidna along the hiking trails.

If you opt to stay overnight in one of the lodges at Cradle Mountain, be sure to take a nighttime wildlife tour. Since most of the animals are nocturnal and hard to find, going with a guide is a great way to see more animals.

At Lake St. Clair, snakes are very common on sunny days and you’re bound to spot birds, wallabies and pademelons on the trails near the visitor centre. If you hike the short distance down to Platypus Bay at dawn or dusk, you might be rewarded with an elusive platypus sighting.

If you take on the challenge of walking the 65km Overland Track deep in the heart of the parks, you’ll have tons of opportunities to spot wildlife. Many of the campgrounds have resident wallabies, pademelons, wombats and possums.

The walking track has many boardwalks, which are a favourite spot for skinks. We saw literally dozens of skinks each day. If you keep an eye out you might spot snakes or echidnas beside the trail too.

Animals You Can See at Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park: Wombats, wallabies, pademelons, possums, snakes, echidnas, skinks, birds

READ NEXT: Hiking the Overland Track in Tasmania

6. Deloraine

Platypus are notoriously hard to spot. I finally saw my first platypus in the wild in Deloraine!

Mark, the owner of The Empire Hotel in the northern town of Deloraine, runs free platypus tours most nights in the summer. His walking tour explains facts about the platypus, then takes you along the river to his favourite platypus spotting areas.

Animals You Can See in Deloraine: Platypuses

READ NEXT: 40+ Things to do in Devonport and Tasmania’s North West

7. Maria Island National Park

In my opinion, Maria Island is by far the best place to see wildlife in Tasmania. But there’s a catch… you have to stay overnight. Since the whole island is a National Park, that means camping or staying in rustic accommodation in the old prison. But it’s definitely worth it.

On the ferry ride over, keep your eyes peeled for dolphins and whales. During the day watch for lots of birds including huge Cape Barren geese.

But once the sun starts to go down, all the mammals come out. The large open field by the campground gets covered in wombats, wallabies and pademelons. The occasional kangaroo hops through, or you can walk out towards the airstrip where they hang out. Possums dart through the trees.

And if you listen, you might hear the horrible growling and screaming of the Tasmanian Devil. Since the island is isolated, Maria Island is one of the key places for the reintroduction of captive bred Tasmanian devils.

Reportedly the devils sometimes wander through the campground after dark, especially if someone is barbecuing meat. Unfortunately I heard them but didn’t see them.

Animals You Can See on Maria Island: Wombats, Tasmanian devils, kangaroos, wallabies, pademelons, possums, birds, Cape Barren geese, dolphins, whales

READ NEXT: How to Visit Maria Island, Tasmania

8. Freycinet National Park

Freycinet National Park is famous for gorgeous Wineglass Bay. But the trails through the park and the waters surrounding the peninsula are a great place to spot wildlife.

The campsites are known for their friendly wallabies, pademelons, possums. You can also spot wallabies, pademelons, echidnas, snakes and many species of birds along the park trails. Look for dolphins, seals and migrating humpback and southern right whales off shore. 

Animals You Can See on the Freycinet Peninsula: wallabies, pademelons, possums, whales, snakes, birds

9. Tasman peninsula

The Tasman Peninsula is almost completely cut-off from the mainland by the narrow Eaglehawk Neck. That means that there is lots of diverse wildlife on the peninsula.

Watch for echidnas and pademelons on the hiking trails. In the remote Fortescue Campground watch for wallabies hopping through or possums and bandicoots prowling after dark. There is a small surviving population of Tasmanian Devils on the peninsula but sightings are rare.

The towering cliffs of the peninsula are best seen from the water. We loved taking a boat tour on our trip. The tours visit seal colonies and can also track down migrating whales and dolphins.

Animals You Can See on the Tasman Peninsula: Echidnas, pademelons, wallabies, possums, bandicoots, Tasmania devils, seals, dolphins, whales and sea birds.

READ NEXT: 20+ Things to Do on the Tasman Peninsula Near Port Arthur

10. Bruny Island

Bruny Island south of Hobart is a paradise for foodies. But it also has lots of wilderness areas that are great for spotting animals like. It’s a great place to echidnas and little penguins.

But the real reason I visited was to see the population of rare white wallabies. The albino wallabies have few predators on the island, which is what has allowed them to survive. We saw lots of regular wallabies, but sadly, none of the famous white ones.

Eco-friendly boat tours are a great way to see marine life like seals, whales and sea birds.

Animals You Can See on Bruny Island: Echidnas, seals, little penguins, whales, white wallabies

READ NEXT: The Best Things to Do on Bruny Island, Tasmania

So there are my recommendations for the best places to see wildlife in Tasmania. The little penguins and wombats were definitely my favourite, and I still can’t believe I saw a Tasmanian devil in the wild! So lucky!

If you go to Tasmania, definitely make sure you make seeing animals a priority and of course keep ethical animal encounters top of mind. Which Tasmanian animal are you most excited to see? Tell me in the comments.

MORE TASMANIA POSTS:

• The Ultimate Guide to the Tarkine Drive in Tasmania, Australia
• 40+ Things to do in Devonport and Tasmania’s North West
• The Ultimate Guide to the Overland Track in Tasmania
• How to spend the weekend in Hobart, Tasmania: 2-day Itinerary
• 22 Things to Do on the Tasman Peninsula Near Port Arthur
• The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Maria Island, Tasmania
• The Best Things to Do on Bruny Island, Tasmania
• The Best Things to do in Strahan and Tasmania’s West Coast

The post Best Places to See Wildlife in Tasmania appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

I’ve put together a list of must-do things for you. Think of it as your Joshua Tree Bucket List. So here you go: 18 awesome things to do in Joshua Tree National Park. If you have questions about Joshua Tree, check out the FAQ section at the bottom.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Check out the Joshua Trees

There are tons of things to do in Joshua Tree National Park, but the checking out the joshua trees is the main attraction.

Joshua trees are pretty insane: they look more like something Dr. Seuss dreamed up than an actual tree. And in fact they aren’t technically trees since they have fibres instead of growth rings – they are part of the yucca plant family.

The early Mormon settlers thought the trees looked like Joshua from the Bible raising his arms to the sky in prayer, hence the name: Joshua tree. 

They come in all kinds of shapes and sizes. And like snowflakes, I think no two are exactly alike. I spent hours taking photos of Joshua trees on my trip and I’m sure you’ll want to as well.

Best Place to See Joshua Trees: Stop your car at any of the pull outs along Park Drive – the Joshua trees are pretty much everywhere in the northern section of the park.

Visit the Unique Rock Formations

If you’ve watched a western film or been on the Thunder Mountain Railroad ride at Disney, you’re familiar with the cartoonish landscape of piled round rocks.

Well it turns out it doesn’t just exist in fiction – at Joshua Tree this landscape is real! The park is covered in unique jumbles of rocks. Some of them are famous enough to have their own names and are tourist attractions!

Best Places to See the Rock Formations in Joshua Tree:

• Skull Rock is near the Jumbo Rocks campground is a must see (although I didn’t think it looked that much like a skull.) You can see it right from the park road.
• Arch Rock near White Tank campground is also cool, and it’s the only a half mile walk.
• Split Rock is a giant boulder with a split running through it (they named it well). You can drive right up to it.

Go For a Hike

Besides checking out the Joshua trees, going for a hike is one of the must-do things in Joshua Tree. There are tons of options for hiking from short nature walks to long treks so there’s something to suit every fitness level. 

Make sure to bring lots of water, a hat and sunscreen as the desert weather can be harsh, even in the winter.

If you want a local’s perspective, sign up for a guided hike. Your guide will pick the best hike for your group and the season, then help you understand the plants, animals, and geology that you will spot along the way.

Best Hikes in Joshua Tree:

• For a short and easy walk check out the Barker Dam Trail. This 1.5 mile loop goes past a dam and some pictograms and takes about 45 minutes.
• A great moderate trail is the hike to Lost Horse Mine.
• For a longer and more challenging hike I liked the trail to the Willow Hole. It’s an out and back trip of 7 miles that leaves the desert on the Boy Scout Trail and heads deep into the Wonderland of Rocks to a subsurface oasis of willows. There’s lot of interesting vegetation, plus you might see wildlife. (We saw a fox!!)
• Here’s 6 more easy hikes you can do in less than 3 hours.

READ NEXT: Tips and Tricks for Hiking in the Desert

Try to Spot Some Wildlife

While the desert can look uninhabited, it’s actually home to lots of wildlife. You just need to slow down, be quiet and know where to look. On my visit I saw a gray fox, coyotes, lizards, cottontail rabbits, Jack rabbits, ground squirrels, chipmunks, a golden eagle, hawks, quails, hummingbirds and bats.

Joshua Tree National Park is also home to big horn sheep and an endangered tortoise, but we weren’t lucky enough to see them. There are also rattlesnakes, scorpions, tarantulas and mountain lions in the park, but I wasn’t enthusiastic about running into them. (And thankfully I didn’t!)

Best Places to Spot Wildlife in Joshua Tree:

If you camp in the park you’re likely to see some of the more common animals that hang around the campgrounds. These include rabbits, ground squirrels and chipmunks. You might also hear bats chirping or coyotes howling at night.

Your best chance to see big horn sheep and other more reclusive wildlife (like foxes) is to venture into the Wonderland of Rocks on the Boy Scout Trail or the Willow Hole Trail.

Camp in the Desert

You might picture the desert as bathed in sunlight, but you haven’t experienced it until you’ve seen it at night too when the stars come out and the heat of the day fades away. The best way to do that is to camp.

Joshua Tree National Park has 9 campgrounds, some of which require reservations and some of which are first-come-first-served. Most of them don’t have water or flush toilets, so camping is a rustic experience. But it’s sooo worth it.

Camping is pretty popular so make a reservation or plan to show up early to try to get a first-come-first-served spot.

For the more adventurous, you can also backcountry camp in the park. You have to start at one of 13 backpacking trailheads and your campsite must be more than 1 mile from the trailhead and at least 100 feet from any water sources.

Best Places to Camp in Joshua Tree National Park: If you want to be close to town and like the certainty of a reserved site, stay at Black Rock or Indian Cove campgrounds. You’ll be a bit further from the main sites at these locations, but you won’t have to rough it as much. Plus Black Rock has water and flush toilets!

If you want to stay in the heart of the park camp at Hidden Valley. This campground has sites set amongst boulders and outcroppings and is very popular with climbers. My tip: Campsites 32-45 along the road to the right are quieter and more private than the sites in the main loop. Camping costs $15-20 a night. Unless you reserved online, bring cash.

READ NEXT: Best Campgrounds and Hotels Near Joshua Tree

Watch the Rock Climbers

Rock climbing is one of the most popular activities in Joshua Tree National Park and climbers travel here from all over the world. Many climbers will spend a few weeks here each winter, enjoying the mild weather and living in their vans. There are over 8000 established rock climbing routes in the park! Watching the climbers can be really entertaining as they scale seemingly impossible cliffs.

Best Places to Watch Rock Climbers in Joshua Tree National Park: There are tons of climbing areas in the park so you are likely to see people climbing or bouldering almost anywhere. (FYI: Bouldering is climbing on small rocks that aren’t very high off the ground without using a rope.)

Some popular places to see climbers are:

• Quail Springs picnic area
• Intersection Rock
• the cliffs around the Hidden Valley campground
• the Hall of Horrors climbing area pull out.

Visit the Cactus Garden

The cactus garden is full of teddybear cholla cactus (pronounced choy-ya).

These fuzzy looking cactus also have the nickname “jumping cactus” since if you brush against them parts of the cactus will break off and get embedded in your skin or clothes. There is even a first aid kit chained to a post near the entrance since so many people accidentally get cactus spines stuck in them!

There also lots of other desert plants in the cactus garden, but there are just SO MANY teddybear cacti that it is hard to see anything else.

How to Find the Cactus Garden in Joshua Tree National Park: The Cholla Cactus Garden is located in the southern portion of Joshua Tree National Park along the Pinto Basin Road. It’s a 20 mile drive from the Cottonwood Visitor Center in the southern part of the park or a 14 mile drive from the intersection of Pinto Basin Road and Park Drive in the north.

Check out the Panorama at Keys View

Make the drive up to 5185 feet to the Keys View for panoramic views to the south. From up there you can see Palm Springs, the Salton Sea and even Signal Mountain in Mexico. You can also see the Indio Hills, which are the result of movement along the San Andreas Fault.

It’s one of the few places you can actually look right at the San Andreas Fault, besides from an airplane. Bring binoculars if you have them.

How to Get to Keys View in Joshua Tree National Park: From the intersection of Park Drive and Keys View Road in the northern part of the park it’s a 20 minute drive up the mountain to the viewpoint. At the top there is a short viewpoint loop.

Go Star Gazing

Joshua Tree National Park has very low levels of light pollution, making it perfect for star gazing. They even host a Night Sky Festival in January.

My Tips for Star Gazing in Joshua Tree National Park:

• Even if the desert is warm during the day, the temperature drops at night so bundle up with warm clothes.
• Pick a night with no clouds and avoid the full moon.
• If you want to take photos of the night sky you’ll need a tripod and a camera that has a manual mode to shoot long exposures.

Best Places to Star Gaze in Joshua Tree National Park:

• The most convenient place to star gaze might be right at your campsite, especially if you stay at one of the campgrounds in the heart of the park.
• Turn off your flashlights and put out your campfire for the best visibility.
• For even better star gazing, consider backcountry camping.
• If you aren’t camping, you can drive into the park at any time (it’s open 24 hours) and stop anywhere to look at the stars.
• Choose a roadside pullout as far from light sources as possible. Consider driving down the Pinto Basin Road towards the Cholla Cactus Garden for the darkest skies.

Drink a Date Shake

Date Shakes have been popular in the Palm Springs area since the 1920s. Date growers in the Coachella Valley south of Joshua Tree National Park needed to figure how to market dates to Americans… so they added them to milkshakes. If you’ve never had a date shake before, you’ve got to try one.

Where to Get Date Shakes Near Joshua Tree National Park: There are tons of places to find date shakes in the Coachella Valley and Palm Springs, south of the park.

Shields Date Garden in Indio is where it all started. It’s a 40 minute drive from the Cottonwood Visitor Centre at the southern edge of the park to Shields.

If that’s too far to go, don’t worry. North of the park you can get Date Shakes at Natural Sisters Cafe or Country Kitchen, both on 29 Palms Highway near the intersection with Park Boulevard.

Check out the Ocotillo Patch

Joshua Trees and cacti aren’t the only interesting plants in Joshua Tree National Park: enter the ocotillo. It looks kind of like a super tall, spindly cactus, but it’s actually a deciduous shrub. Unlike most deciduous plants which shed their leaves once a year in the fall, the ocotillo grows and sheds it’s leaves multiple times a year – each time in rains.

It sometimes blooms bright red flowers as well. These plants are really cool to see and make for great photos, especially against the blue sky of the desert.

How to Find the Ocotillo Patch in Joshua Tree National Park: The Ocotillo Patch is located on Pinto Basin Road in the southern part of the park. It’s a 25 minute drive from the Cottonwood Visitor Centre in the south or a 5 minute drive from the Cholla Cactus Garden to the north. There’s a small sign just before a parking pull out. There are ocotillo on both side of the road.

READ NEXT: Tips for Hiking in Hot Weather

Go Rock Climbing or Scrambling

If you’re an experienced rock climber, Joshua Tree is a paradise. If you’re new to climbing, sign up for a beginner-friendly group rock climbing lesson.

But rock climbing doesn’t have to be a hard core activity with ropes, harnesses and dangling over the abyss – there are lots of short rock scrambles in the park that you can just walk up on your own.

Many of the rocks are arranged in easy stair steps that make climbing easy, even for those who don’t like heights. Just remember that it’s way easier to climb up than to climb down, so choose your route carefully and don’t take any unnecessary risks.

Best Places to Go Rock Scrambling in Joshua Tree National Park: There are good roadside rock formations for scrambling all over the park. My favourite areas to explore are:

• Quail Springs picnic area
• near Skull Rock
• on the Arch Rock trail
• near the Hidden Valley campground.

Walk Among the Palm Trees at an Oasis

The word oasis conjures up stereotypical images of a group of palm trees growing up out of the desert. It turns out that’s totally a real thing and there are a few different oases in Joshua Tree National Park. (“Oases” is the plural of oasis – the more you know, right?)

Some of them you can drive right up to and a few of them you can hike to. They all have groves of palm trees and other water loving plants like willow trees. Unlike the manicured palms you see in cities, these ones are all shaggy since no gardener removes the dead fronds to keep the trunk exposed.

How to Find the Oases at Joshua Tree National Park:

• The easiest oasis to visit it the Oasis of Mara at the 29 Palm Visitor Centre. A short half mile paved trail winds around the oasis.
• The Cottonwood Spring Oasis near the Cottonwood Visitor Centre is also easy to visit since you can see it from the parking lot.
• For more challenging hikes, check out the 3 mile 49 Palms Oasis Trail in the north of the park or the 7 mile round trip hike to the Lost Palms Oasis near Cottonwood Spring.

Spend Some Time People Watching

Joshua Tree attracts an eclectic bunch: dirtbag rock climbers living in vans, ageing hippies looking for enlightenment in the desert, L.A. hipsters on weekend Instagram photoshoot missions, U.S. Marines from the nearby base, European families on camping vacations in rented RVs, grey haired retirees taking a break from golfing in Palm Springs… and regular old tourists.

They all seem to love the wide open desert and blue skies of Joshua Tree, and since it’s a pretty chill place, they all get along. The people watching is amazing here… almost as good as on the New York Subway 🙂

Of course, remember to be respectful and avoid staring because everyone deserves to enjoy the park.

Best Places for People Watching Near Joshua Tree:

• Start with any of the three visitor centres. You’re sure to spot some interesting people browsing the bookstores or asking questions at the info desk.
• Outside the park check out the restaurants, cafes and outfitters near the intersection of 29 Palms Highway and Park Boulevard in the town of Joshua Tree.
• Inside the park take a stroll through the Hidden Valley campground on weekend mornings to grab a free cup of coffee and chat with climbers and climbing rangers at the park’s Climber Coffee program.
• Head to Keys View at sunset to see a wide cross section of visitors enjoying the beautiful colours at the end of the day.

Explore an Abandoned Mine

Most of Joshua Tree National Park is littered with old mines. The area was part of a large land grab starting in the 1800s as western settlers scrambled to find gold and other minerals. Many of the mines in the park operated for only a short time.

The mining ruins have left rusty metal and machinery strewn about so watch your step when exploring. Never go inside or climb on anything since it’s definitely not safe. Many of the mine shafts drop straight down!

How to Visit an Abandoned Mine in Joshua Tree National Park: There are tons of mines but most are well off the beaten path and involve cross-country travel in trail-less terrain.

• One of the easiest hikes to a mine is the 1.6 mile trip to the Desert Queen Mine.
• Another easy option is heading to Wall Street Mill which was used for processing gold ore. This 3 mile out and back trail passes some ruined buildings before ending at the ruins of the mill.
• In the southern part of the park, check out the Mastodon Peak trail, a 3 mile loop that goes right by the ruins of the Mastodon Mine.
• For the more adventurous, hike to the Lost Horse Mine. It’s a 7 mile loop that passes lots of ruins and visits the mine.

Shop and Eat in the Town of Joshua Tree

Located just north of Joshua Tree National Park, the funky town of Joshua Tree is a worth a visit. Make time to browse through the unique local shops including the Coyote Corner gift shop, Grateful Desert Apothecary, and the Joshua Tree Rock Shop.

There are lots of unique restaurants too. Don’t miss Natural Sisters Cafe for vegetarian food, Joshua Tree Coffee Company, drinks at the Joshua Tree Saloon, breakfast at Joshua Tree Country Kitchen, and the quirky diner-style Crossroads Cafe.

Visit Pioneertown

We didn’t have time to visit Pioneer Town on my visit, and I really wish we’d made it there. It’s a really cool Western-style town, built in 1946 as a movie set. Today it’s home to fun shops, restaurants, and even a unique hotel.

Go Off-Roading

Huge parts of Joshua Tree National Park are very remote and can only be accessed by 4×4 vehicle. Your rental car isn’t up to the challenge of these rough roads (and you’ll void your insurance if you take it off the pavement anyway), so it’s best to go with a tour.

There are several options available including family-friendly jeep tours or rides in an open-backed safari-style Hummer.

Joshua Tree National Park FAQ

What are your favourite things to do in Joshua Tree National Park? Can you recommend any hikes I should hit up next time I’m there? (Because you know there will be a next time!)

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The post 18 Awesome Things to Do in Joshua Tree National Park appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

It has everything you want to see in Tasmania all in one place: convict heritage sites, amazing wildlife, and great outdoor activities like hiking, biking, and camping.

Really the only thing it’s missing is delicious local Tasmanian food. (But you can buy that at the Salamanca Market in Hobart and bring it over for the complete experience.)

A visit to Maria Island is not at the very top of most people’s Tasmania bucket list, so it’s never exceptionally busy. Which is awesome since it means you won’t have to fight crowds while you walk through ruins, snap photos of adorable wombats and wallabies, or hike and bike to beautiful rock formations.

My complete guide to visiting Maria Island, Tasmania includes:

• Maria Island history: The convict era, farming, and wildlife sanctuary.
• Best things to do on Maria Island, Tasmania: Historical buildings, hiking, biking, wildlife, and more.
• How to get to Maria Island: Everything you need to know about the Maria Island ferry
• How to get around on Maria Island: walking and biking
• Where to stay on and near Maria Island: Camping, penitentiary accommodations, and nearby hotels.
• What to bring to Maria Island: Packing lists for day trips, overnight trips, and camping.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Maria Island, Tasmania Basics

Pronunciation: Aussies call it “ma-rye-ah” island, not “ma-ree-ah” island. Now you know.

Highlights: Convict historical sites, the best wildlife watching in Tasmania, excellent hiking and biking

Location: Off the east coast of Tasmania via a 30-minute ferry ride. The ferry dock is 1.5 hours drive from Hobart and 2.5 hours from Launceston. (See the How to Get To Maria Island section below.)

Costs: Ferry ride is $54AUD per adult. You must also have a valid National Parks pass. Prices vary and there are discounts for longer durations.

Best Time to Visit: Year-round, but the weather is best from December to March.

How Long to Spend on Maria Island: At a minimum, plan to spend half a day on Maria Island. In a full day, you can see all of the major sights. I recommend spending at least one night as its the best way to see wildlife and you’ll have more time for hiking and biking.

Maria Island, Tasmania Map

To help you orient yourself, I’ve made a custom map of Maria Island, Tasmania just for you. It shows all the places you can visit on the island, accommodation options, and key landmarks. 

Maria Island, Tasmania History

Before Europeans arrived, the Indigenous Puthikwilayti people lived on Maria Island. In 1642 Abel Tasman first sighted the island. He named it Maria Island after Maria van Diemen, the wife of the Governor General of the Dutch East India Company.

In 1825, a penal colony opened at Darlington on Maria Island. The penitentiary and commissariat store (now the park office) were built around that time. The colony closed in 1832 but then was reopened and expanded as a probation station in 1842. It then closed for good in 1850.

The ruins of 14 convict era buildings on Maria Island are recognized today as one of the most intact convict sites in Australia.

After the end of the convict era, an Italian named Diego Bernacchi leased the island in the 1880s and renamed it San Diego. He had grand plans to grow fruit and make wine and silk. He also started constructing a tourist resort which included a hotel and the Coffee Palace restaurant.

By 1896 Bernacchi’s grand plans had not materialized, so he left Maria Island. The Coffee Palace was converted to a boarding house and a small farming community developed on the land that Bernacchi had cleared.

In the 1920s a large cement company operated on the island, complete with its own mini-railroad. It was initially very successful and supported over 500 residents at Darlington. The large silos near the present-day ferry dock date from this time.

After the cement operations closed in the 1930s, most of Darlington’s residents left. A few farming and fishing families stayed until the 1960s. In 1971, Maria Island was officially declared a National Park.

Things to Do on Maria Island, Tasmania

 Visit the Convict Sites at Darlington

The main convict sites on Maria Island are in the former town of Darlington.

The first site is the Commissariat Store, near the ferry jetty. It’s the oldest building on the island and was originally a storehouse. Today it’s home to the park visitor centre and has some interesting displays for visitors.

Follow the road from the ferry jetty for 500m to reach the Darlington. You can explore the Penitentiary complex.

Be sure to go inside the Coffee Palace. This former restaurant from the Bernacchi era is now a museum. Two of the rooms have been restored to how they would have looked in the 1890s. There’s also a fun audio element where you can sit and pretend to have tea while listening to historical figures talk about life on Maria Island.

There are interpretive signs around the site to help you understand the history. 

Watch the Wildlife

Maria Island has been called Tasmania’s Noah’s Ark. Since it’s an island National Park with no residents, no cars, and no predators, it’s a haven for native Tasmanian animals. They are used to tourists so Maria Island is probably the best place in Tasmania to see wildlife.

The island has healthy populations of wombats, pademelons, and wallabies. Even though the animals are very tolerant of people, please don’t touch them, chase them or get too close. There have been lots of problems with tourists behaving very badly in recent years.

Maria Island is also home to some threatened populations of native animals. In the 1960s, Forester kangaroo populations were declining on mainland Tasmania, so kangaroos were brought to Maria Island. They are now thriving. The same story is true for Cape Barren geese, a large bird similar to a Canada goose. 

The Tasmanian devil population started plummeting in the early 2000s due to facial tumour disease. Maria Island was one of the first places that healthy captive-bred devils were released into the wild.

Today Maria Island hosts several dozen Tasmanian devils in a test program. If a devil can successfully survive on its own on Maria Island, they recapture it after a few years and move it to the mainland. They hope this will reestablish a healthy population there.

The best place on the island to see all of these animals on the open grassy slopes in Darlington and on the nearby airstrip. If you stay overnight you will see even more animals as many of them are nocturnal and only come out at dusk.

READ NEXT: Best Places to See Wildlife in Tasmania

Check Out the Painted Cliffs

The brightly coloured sandstone rocks at Painted Cliffs are probably the most photographed thing on Maria Island. (Or maybe they are tied for first with the adorable wombats?)

The sandstone cliffs have traces of red iron oxide in them, which creates beautiful patterns. Then the ocean waves have carved the rocks into wonderful swirls and curves. It’s gorgeous!

To get to the Painted Cliffs follow the coast road through Darlington. The cliffs are 2.5km away from the ferry jetty. It’s a 30-minute walk or a 10-minute bike ride.

The best time to visit is at low tide so you can see the cliffs – otherwise, the waves lap right up to them. Check the tide table online or at the visitor centre before you go.

Explore the Island by Bike

One of the best ways to explore Maria Island is by bike. You can get around faster so you can travel further and see more of the island. On my visit to Maria Island, I was recovering from a sprained ankle and couldn’t hike much. We rented bikes to make it easier for me to get around and I’m so glad we did. 

You can bring your own bike across on the ferry or hire one on the island at a shed next to the Penitentiary.

Bikes are allowed on all roads on the island but aren’t allowed on the walking tracks. You can get to most of the popular spots on the island by bike including the Fossil Cliffs, Reservoir, and Painted Cliffs.

It’s also a great way to explore further south on the island. We rode as far as the isthmus where we were stopped by very sandy conditions that necessitated pushing our bikes. But if you’re willing to slog through the sand, you can explore even further.

The National Park has more info about where you are allowed to bike on Maria Island.

Go Birdwatching

Maria Island is home to all but one of Tasmania’s twelve endemic birds. (That means species that are found only in Tasmania.) One of the highlights is the endangered (and very tiny) forty-spotted pardalote.

It’s one of the best places in Tasmania to go bird watching since it has a low human population and few predators. Bring binoculars and a bird identification guide, then head out on to some of the island’s quieter walking tracks to see what you can spot.

One of the easiest birds to see is the Cape Barren Goose. They like to graze on the grassy slopes around Darlington. Serious bird nerds (sometimes called “twitchers”) should bring a copy of the Maria Island bird list to see how many they can tick.

Walk the Fossil Cliffs Loop

This easy 2-hour loop walk provides a great overview of Maria Island’s past. You’ll pass by historical buildings from the convict era, the Bernacchi era, and the cement plant era. Be sure to visit the cemetery.

The highlight of the walk is the limestone rocks at the Fossil Cliffs. You can spot fossils in the rocks at this former quarry, and get great views of the sea cliffs towards Bishop & Clerk Peak. 

The whole loop is about 4.5km long and has a few hills and some sheer cliff edges. Bikes are permitted but you may have to push them up some of the hills. (Going down is really fun though!) 

Go Snorkelling 

Part of Maria Island National Park actually includes a marine reserve. This area on the west side of the Island is closed to fishing and very rich in sea life. The best way to see it is with a mask and snorkel.

Explore the area around the ferry jetty and see which undersea creatures you can spot. Just be careful to watch for boat traffic. And of course, like the rest of Tasmania, the water is chilly! For more info on the Marine Reserve and its wildlife, visit the Maria Island Marine Reserve website.

Go to the Beach

If you just want to cool off in the water on a warm day, Maria Island has lots of sandy beaches. The easiest one to access is in Darlington Bay near the ferry jetty. Follow the path through the dunes behind the toilet building in the campground.

If you want to venture further afield, head to the beach next to the Painted Cliffs. It’s only 30 minutes on foot or 10 minutes by bike from Darlington.

For more solitude, walk 1.5 hours or bike 30 minutes to beautiful, blue Four Mile Bay. To experience some of the warmest water on Maria Island, you’ll have to head even further to Shoal Bay. It has shallow water that heats up in the sun. It’s a 3-hour walk or 1-hour bike ride.

Hike in the Forest on the Reservoir Circuit

The easy Reservoir Circuit walk takes about 1.5 hours to complete and takes you through some of Maria Island’s forested interior. You’ll see lots of native vegetation. You might even be lucky enough to spot some of the island’s birds, including the endangered forty-spotted pardalote.

There are also a few historical ruins along the way. My favourite was the old cement works made of red bricks.

If the full circuit is too long, you can skip the trek out to the reservoir and make a smaller loop that takes only 45 minutes. Most of the reservoir circuit is open to bikes, but if you’re on two wheels you’ll have to skip the walking track portion and backtrack on the road.

Climb Bishop and Clerk Peaks

If you want a challenging hike, take on the 4-hour walk to the top of Bishop and Clerk Peaks. These two dolerite columns tower over Darlington. Early settlers thought the rocks of one peak resembled a bishop wearing pointed mitre hat. The other peak was a clergyman (clerk) following him.

The track starts out on the gravel roads of Darlington before heading along the tops of sheer sea cliffs. It climbs in the forest before emerging on a rocky scree slope.

Follow the yellow arrows and cairns through the rocks. The route becomes a bouldery scramble that is very challenging. The summit is at 620m and has great views of the rest of the island.

Explore the Isthmus, Point Lesueur and South Maria Island

Head down to the southern part of Maria Island away from the crowds to explore the isthmus, the beach at Shoal Bay and Point Lesueur. Maria Island is actually two main islands joined by a sandy isthmus.

Near the isthmus, you can explore the ruins of a convict era probation station at Point Lesueur. The picturesque remains of nearby French’s Farm are also worth visiting. If you really want to get off the beaten path, cross the sandy isthmus and continue on to Robey’s Farm or Haunted Bay.

It’s a long way to the southern part of Maria Island. If you’re walking, French’s farm is 3 hours one way, Point Lesueur is about 3.5 hours and the far side of the isthmus is about 4 hours. Biking is much faster – that’s what we did. However, some of the roads are very sandy so you might have to get off and walk.

Summit Mount Maria

Mount Maria is the tallest point on Maria Island at 711m. It’s more remote than Bishop and Clerk, so it is less commonly climbed. It’s a challenging 6 to 7-hour walk that finishes with half an hour of difficult rock scrambling to the summit. On clear days there are panoramic views from the summit. 

How to Get to Maria Island, Tasmania

Getting to the Ferry Terminal

To get to Maria Island, you’ll need to take a 30-minute passenger ferry ride. The ferry leaves from the small town of Triabunna on the East Coast, which is about 1.5 hours by road from Hobart or 2.5 hours from Launceston. Here are Google Maps driving directions. There is plenty of free parking near the ferry dock.

From Hobart, you can get to Triabunna via the public Tassielink bus or the dedicated Maria Island shuttle. Or book a day tour from Hobart that includes ferry reservations.

You can also hire a car in Hobart and drive yourself. I use Discover Cars because it lets you compare prices from lots of different companies to make sure you are getting the best deal.

Taking the Ferry

There are multiple sailings per day, with a reduced schedule in the winter. Check the ferry schedule before you go. The return journey costs $54AUD per adult. There are discounts for children, students, and seniors. In the summer, make reservations in advance as they do book up.

In order to check-in for the ferry, you will need a valid National Parks pass. If you don’t already have one, you can purchase one online at the same time as you make your ferry reservation. 

Your ferry ticket includes one carry-on bag. You need to pay for any additional bags, bikes, kayaks, etc. but the fees are quite reasonable.

Once you get off the ferry on Maria island you will need to walk 500m from the ferry dock to Darlington town. There are a small number of wheeled carts you can use to carry your luggage. 

Getting Around on Maria Island, Tasmania

The only vehicles on Maria Island belong to the Parks Service. To get around you will need to either walk or bike. Most of the major sites are within an hour’s walk of Darlington and the ferry.

However, if you want to explore further afield, a bike can be handy. Biking is allowed on all roads on the island, but not on the walking tracks. You can bring your own or rent one on the island. You can reserve bikes online ahead of time. Tasmanian law requires you to wear a bike helmet.

Where to Stay on Maria Island, Tasmania

If you want to stay overnight on Maria Island there are only two choices for accommodations: camping or staying in the old penitentiary. However, you can easily do a day trip to the island by booking accommodation near Triabunna.

It’s also possible to do a day trip to Maria Island from Hobart. But honestly, I really recommend staying overnight since that’s by far the best way to see the wildlife. (Plus it gets a LOT quieter after the last ferry of the day leaves.)

Darlington Penitentiary Accommodations

The old penitentiary in Darlington operates as a bunkhouse. It has ten basic dorm-style rooms that you can book through the National Parks Service. They sell out months in advance for the popular summer season.

Rooms start at $44 per night per room for 2 people. There is an extra charge for more people and special family rates.

The rooms have six bunks with mattresses, a table and chairs, and a wood heater. There is no electricity or bedding. Bring your own linens and a lantern.

Shared toilet facilities are across the courtyard. There is also a shared kitchen with gas cooktops but you need to bring your own pots, pans, utensils, dishes, etc. 

Camping on Maria Island

The main campground at Darlington is centrally located just down the slopes from the penitentiary and is a great spot for seeing wildlife. I really enjoyed my time camping there.

It’s an open grassy area with a few trees and no designated campsites. No bookings are taken. Register at the Maria Island Gateway before you get on the ferry.

Fees are $13 per site per night for two people, with an extra charge of $5 for each additional adult. There are also special family rates.

There is a covered picnic shelter with barbecues and a fireplace. The toilet building has drinking water taps, but you must treat the water. The wildlife are pretty bold, so the Rangers will give you a metal bin to store your food.

There are also wilderness campgrounds at French’s Farm and Encampment Cove. Both of these campgrounds are free. They have untreated rainwater tanks but check with park staff before you go as they can run low in the summer.

French’s Farm is 11km from the ferry jetty. Encampment Cove is 13km from the ferry jetty. Both can be reached via the coast road on foot or by bicycle.

Triabunna Area Accommodations

If the Maria Island accommodations are too rustic, consider staying overnight in Triabunna, or nearby Orford. That way you can catch an early ferry to the island and spend the entire day there. 

Budget: Triabunna Cabin & Caravan Park

Book a cozy cabin or cottage at the Triabunna Cabin & Caravan Park if you’re on a budget. They have free wifi and a garden. Plus they are walking distance to the Maria Island ferry, IGA grocery store, and restaurants.

Resort: Eastcoaster Tasmania

The Eastcoaster Tasmania resort is located right on the beach a 10-minute drive from Triabunna. They have everything you need on site including a pool, sauna, tennis court, fishing jetty, restaurant, and bar.

Vacation Rental: Orford Holiday House

The top-rated Orford Holiday House is located in Orford, 10 minutes away from Triabunna in a cute house. The open plan and large outdoor area is perfect for relaxing. The beach is just a five minute walk away.

What to Bring to Maria Island, Tasmania

There are absolutely no shops or restaurants on Maria Island so you will need to bring everything you think you’ll need with you. 

Maria Island Day Trip Packing List

• Snacks and lunch
• Water bottle (there is drinking water at Darlington campsite so you can refill your bottle)
• Camera
• Hiking boots or shoes
• Sun hat and sunscreen
• Rain jacket and warm clothing in case the weather turns bad
• Bathing suit and towel
• Backpack
• Rubbish bags – there are no bins on the island and you need to take all rubbish out with you
• Bike and helmet (optional)

Darling Penitentiary Packing List

Pack everything on the Maria Island day trip list, then add in:

• Bedding (pillow, sleeping bag or sheets and blankets)
• Flashlight/torch
• Food for all your meals and a cooler/esky
• Cooking pots, dishes, utensils, etc.
• Toiletries
• Change of clothes

Maria Island Camping Packing List

Bring the items on the day trip and penitentiary lists, plus:

• Tent
• Sleeping pad and sleeping bag
• Camping stove 
• Water filter or treatment (if staying at French’s Farm or Encampment Cove campgrounds)

Maria Island FAQ

Final Thoughts

I’m sure that you will want to add Maria Island to your bucket list. My overnight stay on Maria Island was one of the best things I did on my visit to Tasmania and I’m sure you’ll love it too. If you have questions about visiting Maria Island, Tasmania, let me know in the comments.

More Tasmania Posts:

• 22 Things to Do on the Tasman Peninsula Near Port Arthur
• How to Spend the Weekend in Hobart, Tasmania: 2-day Itinerary
• The Best Things to Do on Bruny Island, Tasmania
• The Ultimate Guide to the Overland Track in Tasmania
• Best Places to See Wildlife in Tasmania
• 40+ Things to do in Devonport and Tasmania’s North West
• The Ultimate Guide to the Tarkine Drive in Tasmania, Australia
• How to Hike in Walls of Jerusalem National Park, Tasmania
• The Best Things to do in Strahan and Tasmania’s West Coast

The post How to Visit Maria Island, Tasmania appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Northern Vancouver Island is off the beaten path so it feels a bit wilder: Tiny towns, lush rainforest, great hiking, camping and kayaking, and SO MUCH WILDLIFE. North Vancouver Island is the place to go if you want to see whales, bears, sea lions, porpoises, and more.

I’ve made nine trips to Northern Vancouver Island over the years, and each time I discover another incredible place. (A of the trips were research for my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.) I haven’t seen everything there is to see on the north end of the Island yet, but believe me… I’m trying!

In this guide, I’ll give you all my insider info on the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island as well as where to stay and where to eat.

Hey there: Thanks so much to At the Water’s Edge Adventures, BC Ferries, and Vancouver Island North Tourism for hosting me on a trip in 2020. All the other trips were at my own expense and all opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Northern Vancouver Island Basics

Location

Northern Vancouver Island is located… on the north end of Vancouver Island. 😉  (Thanks Captain Obvious!)

Since most of Vancouver Island’s population is clustered around the southern tip, the definition of which part of Vancouver Island is the northern part can get pretty broad. (Some people think it’s anything north of Nanaimo which isn’t even half way up the island!)

In general, there is no dispute that anything north of the town of Campbell River is considered Northern Vancouver Island. So that’s the region I’m going to focus on in this post. 

How to Get to North Vancouver Island

The easiest way to get to Northern Vancouver Island is by car. Highway 19, also known as the Island Highway, runs the length of Vancouver Island from Nanaimo in the south all the way past Campbell River to Port Hardy in the north.

If you’re coming from the mainland, you can take a BC ferry from the Vancouver area to Nanaimo, then drive north from there. The drive from Nanaimo to Port Hardy takes about 4 hours.

It’s also possible to fly to north Vancouver Island via charter flights between Vancouver and Port Hardy. You can also take a bus between Campbell River and Port Hardy.

It’s easiest to get around by car. The best place to rent a car is in Nanaimo. But you can also rent cars in Port Hardy. I use Discover Cars since it lets you compare prices from lots of different companies so you can be sure you are getting the best deal.

North Vancouver Island Weather

Northern Vancouver Island has a wet maritime climate. The area gets a LOT of rain between October and March. The driest months are July and August, but May, June, and early September can be nice too.

While it’s not a warm place, it never gets that cold either. In July and August, the average temperature is between 10 and 18C (50-64F). Between November and March, the average temperature is between 1 and 8C (34-46F).

In general, expect rain and chilly weather at any time of year. But you could also luck out. I’ve had several trips with good weather including in 2020 during my hike to Cape Scott and a kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait where we saw temperatures up to 25C (77F)!

READ NEXT: The Best Weather Apps for Hiking

Indigenous Context

Northern Vancouver Island has been home to several indigenous groups since time immemorial and they still live here today.

The Kwakwaka’wakw have traditional territory on the entire northern end of Vancouver Island, extending into the islands of the Johnstone Strait and the adjoining mainland.

On the west coast of Vancouver Island, they share their territory with the Quatsino people.

Further south near Sayward, Kwakwaka’wakw territory overlaps with the We Wai Kai Nation, the K’omoks Nation, and the We Wai Kum Nation.

Consider supporting Indigenous-owned businesses on your trip to northern Vancouver Island. I’ve got several recommendations in this post.

North Vancouver Island Map

I made a custom google map for you that includes everything I mention in this post. Enjoy! This map is all you’ll need if you plan to stick to the paved roads and major towns.

However, if you are venturing off onto any of the gravel roads, I highly recommend you bring a copy of the Vancouver Island BC Backroad Map Book so you don’t get lost. (There’s no cell service outside of the towns.) I also love the offline version of the Gaia GPS app for navigating backroads and hiking trails.

Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island

Northern Vancouver Island is a huge area, with lots of things to do. My list of things to do in North Vancouver Island is set out in geographic order, from south to north, in the order you could visit them if you were driving up the Island Highway from Campbell River towards Port Hardy. 

Visit Sayward and Kelsey Bay

The tiny logging-oriented village of Sayward has been around since the 1890s. Originally only accessed by boat, today it is connected by road to the Island Highway.

Drive the short spur road into town to visit the Cable Cookhouse, a local cafe that is completely wrapped in steel logging cables. Continue through town to the port of Kelsey Bay. The wharf here is a popular place to fish or to just enjoy the view across the Johnstone Strait. 

Learn About Logging Railways in Woss

Woss is another tiny logging town just off the Island Highway. It has the unique distinction of being home to the last operating logging railway in North America.

After a tragic accident in 2017, the railway finally closed after 100 years of operation. Today, you can drive into town to visit historic Steam Locomotive 113. A nearby pavilion has interpretive panels where you can learn about the history of railway logging.

There is currently talk of turning the 90 km-long railway into a biking and hiking trail, which would be amazing as it cuts through some real wilderness. 

Little Huson Caves

Despite being just 20 minutes from highway 19, it took me several visits to north Vancouver Island before I made it to Little Huson Caves. In fact, I didn’t even know they existed until a few years ago. There are tons of caves on Vancouver Island, but this is one of the easiest to visit.

Atluck Creek runs through an area of limestone that is easily eroded. That means that here the creek runs right through a huge cave! Take a short walk down a hill (with some stairs) to two different viewing platforms, one at the creek entrance to the cave, the other at the exit!

READ NEXT: Little Huson Caves Hiking Guide

Stroll the Boardwalk at Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove used to be the northern end of a telegraph line that stretched the length of Vancouver Island. It slowly changed from a telegraph station, into a fishing and cannery village, and today it is an eco-tourism hub. It’s definitely worth the detour off the highway – it’s really cute!

Stroll the wooden boardwalk past historic buildings to the Whale Museum or grab a drink at the cafe and soak up the views. Telegraph Cove is also a popular launching spot for fishing boats, whale watching, and kayaking tours.

Kayak with Whales in the Johnstone Strait

The Johnstone Strait off the coast of northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places in the world to see whales. Humpback whales migrate through all summer long and the area has a high concentration of orcas (killer whales). And one of the best ways to see whales is from a kayak.

I went on a life-changing kayaking trip in the Johnstone Strait in 2020. We saw whales every day, visited Indigenous sites, saw tons of sea lions, seals, porpoises, and eagles, and visited some remote (and gorgeous) islands.

The most popular place to launch kayaks is from Telegraph Cove. You can rent kayaks or go on guided tours that last anywhere from an afternoon to a week.

I went with At the Water’s Edge Adventures who launch from a private beach next to Telegraph Cove. They are offering my readers 10% off any trip with them – just use code HAPPIESTOUTDOORS.

READ NEXT: My guide to Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait

Visit Port McNeill

Port McNeill is the second largest town on Northern Vancouver Island. It’s a compact little town with shops, restaurants, and hotels. Wander along the seawall downtown for great views of the harbour.

Don’t miss the world’s largest burl at the east end of town. (Fun fact: Port McNeill is also home to another giant burl. It was the world’s largest burl until the current one was discovered in 2005. You can find the runner-up burl about 5 minutes east of town just off Highway 19.)

Take a Grizzly Bear Watching Tour

Taking a boat-based bear watching tour up Knight Inlet was definitely one of the best things to do on Northern Vancouver Island. While Northern Vancouver Island has roads and settlements, the nearby mainland has only a few boat-in villages. The huge expanse of wilderness supports a healthy population of grizzly bears.

We watched a mother grizzly bear and her two nearly full-grown cubs explore the coastline in search of mussels and other food. Later, we switched to a smaller boat to cruise up a river estuary and spy on a huge male grizzly eating grass.

I did my tour with Sea Wolf Adventures, based in Port McNeill. They are a local indigenous-run company. Our guides (Sherry and Karissa) were knowledgeable and worked hard to make sure the boat was always in position to take the best photos. The food was great too! 

Go Whale Watching

With humpbacks migrating through every summer and a large resident orca (killer whale) population, northern Vancouver Island is one of the best places to see whales in BC.

Since I have been kayaking with whales and saw quite a few whales on my bear watching tour with Sea Wolf, I haven’t actually been on a whale watching tour on northern Vancouver Island.

But locals recommend Mackay Whale Watching out of Port McNeill. They are a small family-run company and have been running whale watching tours in the area for four decades. 

Ride the Eco-Conscious Island Aurora Ferry

BC Ferries runs the Island Aurora from Port McNeill to the nearby island communities of Alert Bay and Sointula on Malcolm Island. While the towns are definitely worth visiting (and info about them is below), the ferry ride alone is pretty fun.

This brand-new ferry was added to the BC Ferries fleet in 2020. It’s part of a move towards eco-consciousness and uses a hybrid engine. (It runs 20% on battery power, the remainder on diesel.)

Eventually, BC Ferries hopes to introduce a shore-based charging system so that the Island Aurora can run entirely on battery power. The hybrid system is much quieter than conventional engines, which is great for both passengers and the resident whales.

The views of Johnstone Strait from the ferry are spectacular, and with fairly low rates for both walk-on passengers and cars, it’s the cheapest way to get out on the water on northern Vancouver Island!

Pro tip: Take a day trip to both Alert Bay and Sointula on the same day using just one ticket to save money. You will need to take the ferry back to Port McNeill to switch between the two communities – just tell ferry staff you want to visit both.

Experience Indigenous Culture in Alert Bay

Alert Bay is a small community on Cormorant Island, just a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. About half of the island is a ‘Namgis First Nation reserve. The ‘Namgis are part of the larger Kwakwaka’wakw Nation. This is one of the best places to experience Indigenous culture in Canada.

I highly recommend a visit to the U’mista Cultural Centre to learn about their history and culture. This fabulous museum has a huge collection of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw dance masks and memorabilia used in cultural events like potlatches.

In the 1920s, potlaches were declared illegal and the government stole these ceremonial objects and gave them to museums around the world. The Kwakwaka’wakw have worked hard to bring these important cultural treasures back to their traditional territory and display them on their own terms. 

Alert Bay is also home to a forest of totem poles with over 30 poles spread around town. The world’s largest totem pole, at 173 feet tall (53m) also towers over the island.

If you want to go for a walk, the Alert Bay Ecological Park is a great option. Well-marked flat trails and boardwalks lead through an upland marsh fed by underground springs. It’s a great place for birdwatching.

You can also walk around the town and explore the historical buildings.

Visit Sointula and Malcolm Island

The village of Sointula on Malcolm Island has an interesting history. Finnish settlers founded the town in 1901 as a utopian collective society. In Finnish, Sointula means “place of harmony”.

Even though it is just across the water from Port McNeill, it has retained a lot of its unique character. Many older residents still speak Finnish and the cooperatively-run local store, the Sointula Coop, has been open for over 100 years. You can learn more about local history at the tiny Sointula Museum.

Today, the island is home to lots of artists and is a great place for hiking and biking.

If you have time, be sure to make the short drive out to Bere Point. The pebble beach there is a favourite spot for resident orcas to rub their bellies at high tide. A citizen science orca research team sets up tents near the viewpoint each year. Stop in to ask them about the most recent whale sightings.

Drive the Alice Lake Loop

If you are up for some backroads driving, take on the Alice Lake Loop. I haven’t had time for the 2.5-hour trip yet, but it’s high on my list. This mini-road trip visits some of northern Vancouver Island’s unique karst features, formed by centuries of water eroding rock.

Highlights include the Devil’s Bath, a water-filled sinkhole that connects to a river underground, and the Eternal Fountain, a waterfall that appears out of the side of a cliff, then disappears beneath your feet. Take a break in the town of Port Alice part-way along to have lunch and stroll along the ocean-front seawalk.

Visit Port Hardy

Port Hardy is the largest town on north Vancouver Island, its economic centre, and the jumping-off point for ferries to northern BC. It’s a good place to grab a meal, buy groceries, or shop for souvenirs.

Don’t miss the Book Nook and Drift, which share space with Cafe Guido on Market Street. Drift has really cute locally-made clothing and home goods and the Book Nook has a great selection of local books.

For the easiest eagle spotting around, go for a walk along the seawall. The resident eagles are sure to be flying overhead, foraging on the beach at low-tide, or calling out from their nests in the nearby treetops.

Although I haven’t had time to visit, I’ve also heard that the museum at the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre is great for rainy days, especially if you take a tour of the hatchery.

Another thing that’s on my list is visiting the nearby Kwagu’ł Nation community of Tsaxis (Fort Rupert) to visit Calvin Hunt‘s gallery of traditional Kwakwaka’wakw carvings.

Take the Inside Passage Ferry to Northern BC

Port Hardy is the departure point for the Inside Passage ferry to Northern BC. This epic all-day ferry cruises up the coast to Prince Rupert. Along the way, it passes spectacular scenery including picturesque islands, towering mountains, narrow inlets and tons of whales. On my trip we saw the best rainbows.

READ NEXT: Inside Passage Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, BC

Get Off the Beaten Path on Gravel Roads

If you venture off the paved Island Highway, you’ll be heading further off the beaten path than most tourists who visit north Vancouver Island. The remote communities of Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, Quatsino, and Holberg are small resource-based towns, focused on fishing and forestry with a growing community of summer residents.

But if you are into nature, the surrounding areas are worth investigating too. You’ll find remote beaches, deserted campgrounds, hiking trails, and incredible fishing.

Use the Vancouver Island North Recreation map to get ideas on where to go. You can drive sometimes rough gravel roads to Coal Harbour, Winter Harbour, and Holberg, but you’ll need a boat to get to Quatsino.

If you make the drive, bring a map or use the Gaia GPS app since there is no cell service. Pack a spare tire, and be prepared to pull over for speeding logging trucks. Most roads go through the town of Holberg. If it’s open, be sure to stop at the Scarlet Ibis. It’s Vancouver Island’s most remote pub.

Visit Winter Harbour

Winter Harbour is a tiny town that has been around since the 1890s. It began as a fishing village but diversified to become a logging town as well by the 1950s. When the logging operation shut down in 2017, the town’s population dropped to just two year-round residents.

However, in the summer the old loggers shacks fill up with vacationers going salmon fishing or exploring the labrynith of inlets. Be sure to stop at the Outpost General Store, then walk the unique waterfront boardwalk which connects homes and businesses along the inlet and predates the road network.

If you’re up for adventure, drive the backroads to hike to Grant Bay. The short trail leads to what I think is one of the most beautiful remote sandy beaches on Northern Vancouver Island. To get there, take West Main from Winter Harbour Road, then follow it to its end.

Hike, Canoe, Camp, and Surf at Raft Cove Provincial Park

Remote Raft Cove Provincial Park is located on the wild west coast of Northern Vancouver Island. There are two ways to get there, but both start with a long drive on logging roads.

You can canoe 5 km down the Macjack River to its mouth from a put-in off Topknot Main FSR accessed from Winter Harbour. Or you can make a tough and muddy 3 km hike to the beach from a trailhead on Ronning Main FSR access from Holberg.

Once you arrive, the sand stretches for a kilometres and waves pound in from the Pacific Ocean. It’s a popular spot for surfers. There is a great backcountry campground on the peninsula at the mouth of the Macjack River.

Get more info on visiting Raft Cove in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Visit Ronnings Garden

Ronning’s Garden is one of the most unique places to visit on Northern Vancouver Island. Norwegian settler Bernt Ronning built a homestead on the wagon road between Holberg and Cape Scott around 1910. He cleared the bush to create an impressive garden that spanned nearly 5 acres.

He died in 1963 and the rainforest started to reclaim the garden. But in the last few decades new owners have worked on restoring the garden. Today you can walk into the garden to see huge monkey puzzle trees and many other interesting plants from around the world.

Find Ronnings Garden just off San Josef Main on the way to Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Hike and Camp at Cape Scott Provincial Park

Cape Scott Provincial Park sits at the northern tip of Vancouver Island. It’s a wild and beautiful place of white sand beaches, dense rainforest, incredible wildlife, and settler history.

The only way to explore the park is by day hiking or backpacking in to one of the remote backcountry campgrounds. The park has three main trails: the easy and flat day-hike to San Josef Bay, the moderate 3-day backpacking trip to Cape Scott Lighthouse, and the challenging 6-day North Coast Trail. Cape Scott is one of my favourite places and I’ve hiked into the park six times.

Get more info on visiting Cape Scott Provincial Park in my book, Backpacking on Vancouver Island.

Get My Book…

Backpacking on Vancouver Island

Discover Vancouver Island’s best day hikes and overnight trips

• 25 backpacking trips and 10 day hikes throughout Vancouver Island
• Info about permits, reservations and campground facilities
• Detailed maps and photos
• Advice for extending your trip
• Points of cultural and natural history

Get the book

READ NEXT: Cape Scott Trail Guide

READ NEXT: North Coast Trail Guide

Where to Eat on North Vancouver Island

Since many of the communities on northern Vancouver Island are small, you may have to do a bit of advance planning when it comes to where to eat. Most of the towns have at least one restaurant, pub, cafe, or general store but a few do not.

There are also a few restaurants that are worth planning for. Here are my picks for the best restaurants on north Vancouver Island.

Cafe Guido

This adorable hipster coffee shop in Port Hardy wouldn’t be out of place in a big city. Cafe Guido has sandwiches, baked goods, and of course coffee. They share space with the Book Nook and Drift, so allow time for browsing.

Duchess’ Bannock and Desserts

If you’re in Alert Bay, don’t miss trying Duchess’ Bannock. If you’ve never had bannock before, it’s a traditional indigenous fried bread. Duchess’ bannock was some of the best I have ever tasted.

If you have a sweet tooth, order the bannock and berries instead of just the plain bannock. It comes covered in three kinds of berries, berry sauce, whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and sprinkles. Sooo good. (Just make sure you share it with someone – it’s huge!)

ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ Pub

The ha’me’ Restaurant and nax’id’ pub at the newly refurbished Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy serve local, Indigenous-inspired west coast cuisine. (Fun fact: in Kwakwaka’wakw, ha’me‘ means food and nax’id’ means drink.)

We’ve eaten there a few times. My husband was really impressed with their salmon burger… which was served on bannock. 

Where to Stay on North Vancouver Island

With campgrounds, B&Bs, and lodges scattered across northern Vancouver Island, it’s easy to find a place to stay. Here are a few of my favourites:

Bere Point Campground, Malcolm Island

I haven’t actually camped here, but it’s high on my list after visiting for the day in 2020. Located next to the famous whale rubbing beach on Malcolm Island, it has incredible campsites, many of which are right on the ocean. On my visit, campers were trading stories of their many whale sightings! Book in advance as it is popular.

Telegraph Cove Resort, Telegraph Cove

We stayed in the Telegraph Cove Lodge building at the Telegraph Cove Resort before our Johnstone Strait kayaking trip. It has great views of the cove. You can also stay in their collection of historic homes right on the boardwalk – they are super cute! Check prices.

Kwa’lilas Hotel, Port Hardy

I spent three nights at the Indigenous-run Kwa’lilas Hotel in Port Hardy on my 2020 visit to northern Vancouver Island. It’s completely renovated with gorgeous First Nations art in every room. Definitely one of the more upscale places to stay on northern Vancouver Island (without being expensive or pretentious). Check prices.

The Quarterdeck Inn, Port Hardy

We stayed at harbour-front Quarterdeck Inn in Port Hardy in 2021. It has comfortable rooms and is right on the water. It’s the best place to stay if you are hiking the North Coast Trail since it is right next to the water taxi dock. (We stayed here the night before our 2021 NCT hike.) Check prices.

Nimpkish Hotel, Alert Bay

This boutique hotel stands out along the waterfront in Alert Bay. The Nimpkish Hotel is a bright blue historic building with a big deck and lots of windows for great views of the Alert Bay Harbour. With only nine rooms and breakfast included, you’ll feel like you’re staying at a B&B, not a hotel. Check prices.

Humpback Inn, Port McNeill

The Humpback Inn in Port McNeill is a newly refurbished motel with a cute retro vibe. It’s right by the water and an easy walk to everything including whale and bear watching tours. Friends stayed her and loved it. Check prices.

Cape Scott Provincial Park

If you want to get away from it all, you can’t beat a hike-in campsite at Cape Scott Provincial Park. The sea stacks at San Josef Bay are great if you want a short hike, but for the real experience, make the full-day trek out to Nel’s Bight for the full white sand beach experience. The best part: no reservations required! (Read my guide to Cape Scott to plan your trip.)

Now you have all the info you need to head to northern Vancouver Island. What is your favourite thing to do on north Vancouver Island? Tell me in the comments. And as always, send me your questions as I’m happy to help answer them.

More Things to do on Vancouver Island

• Little Huson Caves on Vancouver Island
• Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait: Everything You Need to Know
• The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Vancouver Island
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island

Hiking Guides for Vancouver Island

• North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• Wild Side Trail: Hiking and Camping Guide

The post Things to do on Northern Vancouver Island appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Before this trip, I thought I knew what the west coast was all about. But seeing it from the water brought on a completely different perspective. I spent five days camping on tiny islands. Whales surfaced and exhale meters away from me. I paddled through narrow passages with water so clear, looking down to the bottom was like looking into an aquarium, complete with starfish, sea anemones, and fish. Getting out of the boat, I explored indigenous village sites, dating back innumerable years. I ate amazing fresh food that I didn’t have to cook. Between my phone, SLR, Go Pro, and my husband’s drone I took thousands of videos and photos, hoping desperately to capture the magic of this amazing place. 

I went into this experience as a beginner (and honestly nervous) kayaker, but I left feeling as if I’d visited a truly special area. In this post, I’ll give you even more reasons to plan a kayaking trip to the Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago. And I’ll also give you all the info you need to make it happen. (I’ve also got a sweet discount code for you if you want to book your own trip. Scroll down for that.)

Hey there: Thanks so much to At the Water’s Edge Adventures, BC Ferries, and Vancouver Island North Tourism for hosting me on this trip. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Where is the Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago?

The Johnstone Strait is a narrow body of water separating the northern part of Vancouver Island from mainland British Columbia. Sandwiched between the strait and the mainland are hundreds of islands. Some are tiny (really just a rock with a few trees), while others are huge. You’ll find the Broughton Archipelago at the east end of the area near the mouth of Knight Inlet and the entrance to Queen Charlotte Strait. Protected as a Provincial Marine Park, this group of islands and islets is very popular with kayakers.

Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago Kayaking Map

I made a custom Google map of the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago area for you. It has all the places I will talk about in this post.

How to Get to the Johnstone Strait

Most kayaking trips to the Johnstone Strait and Broughton archipelago start from Telegraph Cove on northern Vancouver Island since it is the closest kayak launch site. Telegraph Cove is a small resort community just south of the town of Port McNeill. To get there from the mainland, start by taking BC Ferries to Nanaimo. Next, drive the Island Highway north for 350km. The drive takes about 4 hours. (Plan to spend a few extra days in the area: there are so many other amazing things to do on North Vancouver Island.)

Where to Stay Before Your Johnstone Strait Kayak Trip

Since you will most likely be starting your kayak trips in the Johnstone Strait in the morning, it makes the most sense to stay in the area the night before your trip. We stayed at the Telegraph Cove Lodge. It’s a brand new building on the slope above Telegraph Cove. They also have historic cottages to rent right on the water, as well as a campground. You can also stay a little bit further away in Port McNeill. On a previous trip, we spent a few nights at the Black Bear Resort. I’ve also heard the Humpback Inn is nice.

When to go Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait

There are two factors to consider when picking dates for your kayaking trip to the Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago: weather and wildlife. With a wet marine climate, the area gets a LOT of rain in the winter. The driest months are July and August, but May, June, and September can also be nice. If you want to see orcas, plan a trip between the end of July and early September. Humpback whales migrate through the area from May until October so you will likely see them all summer long.

How Many Days to Spend Kayaking in the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait

The amount of time you spend kayaking in the Johnstone Strait area is totally personal preference. However, plan to spend at least three days. That will be enough time to explore a few different areas and hopefully, you’ll be in the area long enough to see some whales.

My guides from At the Water’s Edge Adventures said their 5-day tours are really popular, and that’s how long my trip was. It was the perfect amount of time to experience a little bit of everything in the region.

If you want to paddle the more remote (and reportedly gorgeous) northern Broughton islands, give yourself more time as they are remote so it will take longer to get there and back again. Many tour companies offer 7-day trips that penetrate deeper into the archipelago. I’m already dreaming of coming back and doing a 7-day trip further into the Broughtons.

From talking to paddler friends of mine and to other groups we met on our trip, 10+ day expeditions in the area are common. Many groups don’t plan an itinerary. Instead, they wait to see what the weather has in store for them or follow the whales as they migrate through the strait.

How Difficult is Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait?

Kayaking does require physical strength and stamina. But if you’re in OK shape kayaking in the Johnstone Strait can definitely be beginner-friendly since it’s really low-impact. On my trip, we typically spent a few hours on the water in the morning, had a break for lunch for an hour or so, then paddled another couple of hours in the afternoon. I felt like I was getting a bit of a workout, but I was never exhausted. 

However, it’s worth noting that beginners should definitely go with a guide. The weather, tides, and currents can make things dangerous if you aren’t careful. We were really happy to have guides on our trip as they made sure we always paddled in the calmest conditions. (Scroll down for more of my thoughts on my you should hire a guide.)

How Much Does a Kayaking Trip in the Johnstone Strait Cost?

How much your Johnstone Strait kayaking trip will cost depends on how many days you go for and whether you go on a guided tour or go self-guided. There are no fees for camping or kayaking in the Broughton Archipelago or Johnstone Strait so your only costs will be food, gear rentals, and guides.

Renting Gear

Kayak outfitters in Telegraph Cove like At the Water’s Edge Adventures rent sea kayaks starting at $90/day for a single kayak and $150/day for a double and include a PFD (life jacket), spray skirt and other safety gear. Prices get cheaper the more days you book. You can also rent gear like waterproof paddling pants and jackets and drybags. It’s also possible to rent camping gear such as tents, sleeping bags, and stoves as well as emergency gear like a VHF marine radio or satellite messenger.

Guided Tours

Unless you are heading to the Johnstone Strait with experienced friends who know the area well, I think guides are well worth your money. Real talk: guided kayak tours aren’t cheap! Tours start at about $900/person for a three-day tour. You can also work with the guides to customize your tour. But I think having a guide is absolutely worth the money. (Read more about the choice to go guided or not below.)

Should You Go on a Guided Kayaking Trip in the Johnstone Strait?

If you are an experienced paddler, comfortable with self-rescue, navigation, and understanding currents and tides, you can definitely kayak in the Johnstone Strait without a guide. It’s easy to rent gear from local outfitters and plan your own trip. 

However… I think going with a guided tour is the way to do. Yes, it costs more. But I think it’s totally worth it.

On a guided tour you’ll be in a small group of 4-12 clients with 1 or 2 guides. The guides will do all the hard work for you including meal planning and cooking, providing all the camping gear, and outfitting you with paddling pants, jacket, and dry bags.

As an experienced backcountry camper, I found the food and gear to be a nice bonus and definitely a time saver. (And the food was incredible! We had fresh fruit and vegetables every day and appetizers every night before dinner. Dinners were things like tacos, pad thai, curry, and pasta. For lunch, we had sandwiches, bagels, and salads. Definitely, the best food I’ve ever eaten in the backcountry.)

But.. the real benefit of the guides for me was their local expertise and kayaking experience. Of course, this means a safer trip. But I also found that it made for a way more enjoyable trip. Our guides were able to consult the weather, tides, and currents each day to plan our route to avoid rough water and strenuous paddling. When the weather forecast changed and heavy fog became a factor, they altered our itinerary to avoid it, while maximizing whale sightings at the same time.

They knew from experience where the best campsites were, where to find indigenous village sites, clam gardens, and middens, and which narrow passageways between islands were the prettiest to paddle. Our guides also knew where to find the nicest campsites, the best lunch spots, and the best coves to pull over and get out of the kayaks for an emergency pee break. They also had one ear to their VHF radio all the time to listen for chatter about where to see orcas and humpback whales.

I really appreciated paddling with Josh and Alicia from At the Water’s Edge Adventures. To be honest, I was nervous about kayaking across big sections of open ocean and hitting rough weather. Josh and Alicia understood that and were so patient with me. They detailed our route plan every day to show us how we would avoid fast currents and high winds. And on the days we crossed the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound, one of them would stick close by my boat to make sure I felt comfortable, chatting with me the whole way to distract me from the waves.

I definitely recommend a kayaking trip with At the Water’s Edge Adventures. If you want to save some $$ on a Johnstone Strait kayak trip, I can help: Use code “HAPPIESTOUTDOORS” when you book with At the Water’s Edge Adventures to get 10% off.

How to Kayak with Whales in the Johnstone Strait

Although there is no guarantee that you will see whales while kayaking in the Johnstone Strait… it’s pretty likely. It’s one of the best places in the world to kayak with orcas! The three keys to seeing whales are timing, location, and a radio.

Best Time to See Whales in the Johnstone Strait

You can see humpback whales all summer, but the best time to see orcas in the Johnstone Strait is between the end of July and early September. At that time of year, the salmon are returning to rivers to spawn and the orcas come into the area to feed on them.

Where to See Whales in the Johnstone Strait 

To increase your chances of kayaking with whales, plan to spend time paddling in the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound. The whales like the deeper waters there. You are much less likely to see whales in the Broughton Archipelago or in any of the other small island groups. Robson Bight Ecological Reserve at the east end of Johnstone Strait provides important protection for orca habitat and is a popular spot for whale-watching boats. The orcas like to rub their bellies on the smooth river stones on the beaches in the reserve.  (They also do this on Malcolm Island near Port McNeill.) On my kayaking trip, we camped at Kaikash Creek, a few kilometres west of Robson Bight, and were treated to orcas swimming just off our beach – likely on their way to the ecological reserve and its rubbing beaches.

Listen to the Marine Radio to Know to Where to Find Whales

The last factor that will help you see whales is a marine VHF radio. Local boaters and whale watching companies keep up a constant chatter on the radio to report whale sightings. On our trip, our guides always had one ear to the radio and altered our planned route a few times to make sure we could see both orcas and humpbacks. Kayaking with killer whales is definitely something I’ll remember for the rest of my life.

What Species of Whales Live in the Johnstone Strait

There are two populations of orcas (also known as killer whales) in the Johnstone Strait area: the northern residents and the transients. There are about 300 northern residents, who live in small family groups called pods. The northern residents range up and down the coast, but are most commonly found in the Johnstone Strait and in nearby Blackfish Sound. We saw a few different groups of northern residents on our trip. 

Transient orcas look similar to residents but are genetically distinct. Unlike the salmon-eating residents, transient orcas are true killers, feasting on seals, sea lions, and dolphins. The transients don’t form pods and have a much less predictable migration pattern, so they are harder to spot. On my trip, we were lucky enough to spot three transients across Blackfish Sound.

Humpback whales also live in the Johnstone Strait between May and September. They migrate north from Hawaii and Mexico to summer feeding grounds along BC’s north coast and Alaska. Unlike orcas, they don’t have teeth. Instead, they are filter feeders, straining huge mouthfuls of crustaceans and small fish through their baleen. They eat up to 3000lbs of food per day!

While less common, grey whales and minke whales are also sometimes spotted in the Johnstone Strait area.

What Other Wildlife Can You See in the Johnstone Strait

While whales are the biggest reason why people choose to kayak in the Johnstone Strait, I would definitely encourage you to think of them as a bonus and not as the main event. There are SO many other animals to see. And honestly while on my trip the whale encounters were definitely magical, many of the other animals will stick in my memory forever too.

We spent ages watching seals tumble through the water just offshore from our camps, curiously peering up at us. A huge bull sea lion cruised by, just feet away from our kayaks one afternoon, surprising us as he emerged suddenly from the depths. A pod of porpoises splashed by one afternoon. Salmon leapt out of the water seemingly just for the joy of, expending precious energy on their journey back to their spawning rivers.

Eagles perched obligingly on cedar branches, posing for our cameras like bad-ass models. An inquisitive mink slunk around one of our campsites, and later we discovered its nearby den. (A member of my group spotted her two kits, but I wasn’t lucky enough to see them.)

Waterbirds rafted up around us or flew overhead. Noisy belted kingfishers were our constant companion. We spotted rhinoceros auklets, a relative of the puffin. We also saw some endangered marbled murrelets. These small brown and white birds nest high in the branches of old-growth trees near the ocean. As the old-growth disappears, so do the marbled murrelets. 

What Indigenous Sites Can You Visit in the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago

The Johnstone Strait, Broughton Archipelago, and surrounding area are the traditional territory of the ‘Namgis, Mamalilikulla, and Kwikwasut’inuxw Haxwa’mis people. They belong to the broader Kwakwaka’wakw group and have inhabited the area since time immemorial. Today they live in a few small villages on Vancouver Island, the neighbouring mainland, and a few other islands. But signs of their widespread habitation are everywhere if you know where to look. 

On my trip, our guides took us to visit a former village site on Mound Island. We saw the foundations of at least a dozen houses. The forest featured several culturally modified trees, stripped of cedar bark for basketry and other uses. The beach we landed on was actually a gigantic shell midden, resulting from hundreds of years of use. We also saw the remains of a clam garden, a raised terrace visible at low tide that expanded the natural area where clams like to live. 

Our guides also took us to see a pictograph on a cliff on Berry Island in Mamlilikulla territory. The pictograph is hundreds of years old and very fragile. Do not touch it as the oils from your hands could damage it. Next to the pictograph is an indention in the rock called the Chief’s Bath. According to indigenous oral history, the indentation fills at high tide and the chief would bath in it… if his subjects placed warmed rocks from the fire into it first.

I’ve labelled both Mound Island and Berry Island on my map of the Johnstone Strait area (above) but I haven’t given the exact locations of the indigenous sites. I’ll let you discover them yourself. If you visit, be sure to tread lightly and give them the respect they deserve. If you want to learn more about indigenous culture in the Johnstone Strait area, visit the U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay. It’s an amazing museum with some beautiful exhibits.

What Other Cool Places Should You Check Out in the Johnstone Strait

I’ve spent a lot of time on remote parts of British Columbia’s coast (like Cape Scott, the Nootka Trail, and the West Coast Trail). But I was still surprised at how stunning the coastline is in the Johnstone Strait area. In particular, weaving through all the little narrow passageways between tiny islands was so gorgeous. Each little hidden bay and inlet was like a new treasure to uncover. The water is crystal clear in places, so you can see all the starfish, anemones, and sea cucumbers on the bottom. I also loved watching the long strands of bull kelp wave in the water.  Some of my favourite spots for that type of paddling were the Plumper Islands, the southern Broughton Archipelago, and the bays on the north side of Hanson Island. 

We also stopped for lunch at a place called Red Cove where the rocks were covered in fossils. Just walking around, it was easy to spot ammonite and trilobite fossils from thousands of years ago!

How to See Bioluminescence in the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago

One of the most magical parts of my trip was paddling at night through sparkly bioluminescence. But what exactly is bioluminescence? Basically, it’s flashes of light that plankton or algae known as dinoflagellates emit. It’s only visible when it’s really dark out. When something disturbs the plankton, they emit a small flash of bright light.

You can “trigger” the bioluminescence by trailing your hands in the water, splashing, or simply dipping your paddle in. But my favourite way to water the bioluminescence was to paddle in close to a rocky cliff. There, the barnacles feed on the plankton, and the plankton flash as they get eaten. It looks a bit like the barnacles are having their own fireworks show just under the water. 

The best places to see bioluminescence are in small bays or coves that are calm and sheltered from wind and waves. You need to go at night when it’s fully dark out, and ideally when the moon isn’t too bright. On the last night of our trip, our guide led us on a really memorable night paddle to see the bioluminescence in a cove near our camp. It’s pretty hard to take photos or video of the bioluminescence from a moving kayak, so you’ll just have to take my word for it that it was awesome. Definitely recommended! 

What is the Weather Like in the Johnstone Strait

Northern Vancouver is notorious for rain, fog, and stormy weather. Thankfully that reputation is mostly due to their winter weather, but definitely expect some rain on any trip. July and August see the least rain, but May, June, and September can be drier too.

With a marine climate, the Johnstone Strait is not the world’s warmest place. In the summer, average temperatures are between 10 and 18C (50-64F). However, if you’re lucky like me, you might even get some warm weather. On my trip, we had highs up to 25C (77F) and the guides said it was one of the warmest trips they could remember.

The main weather factor for a Johnstone Strait kayaking trip will be the winds. Typically, mornings are calm with maybe a bit of fog. But in the afternoons the wind whips up, funnelling through the narrow Johnstone Strait. Having a guide along to plan the route and avoid the full force of the winds was one of the things I really appreciated about my trip.

What to Bring on a Johnstone Strait Kayaking Trip

If you go on a guided kayak tour in Johnstone Strait, the tour company will provide most of what you will need including kayaks, PFDs, safety gear, camping gear, food, and drinking water. The company I used (At the Water’s Edge Adventures) even gave us chairs and cots! (Omg so comfortable – now I want to buy camping cots.) They will give you a couple of dry bags to store your personal clothing and gear. Here’s my recommended list of things to bring if you take a guided kayak tour. Where possible, I’ve added links to stuff I actually brought.

Paddling Gear

• neoprene paddling booties (You’ll be getting in and out of the kayaks in shallow water so these are a must and much more comfortable than sandals or sneakers when wet.)
• quick dry underwear and sports bra
• synthetic hiking pants, shorts or tights to wear under paddling pants (x2)
• quick dry long-sleeve shirt for sun protection (x2)
• fleece jacket
• sunhat and sunglasses
• sunscreen
• camera and/or Go Pro
• Phone tether (I used this stretchy cord to attach my phone to my life jacket zipper so it would be impossible to drop but I could still take photos.)

Camp Gear

• warm, quick-drying, and comfortable non-cotton clothes
• rain jacket and pants
• thermal long underwear for sleeping in
• cozy socks and a toque for nighttime
• running shoes
• lightweight puffy jacket
• headlamp
• toiletries
• book or eReader (See my picks for the best Canadian Adventure Books including The Killer Whale Who Changed the World. It’s about the changing human relationship with orcas.)

If you go self-guided, you’ll need to bring your own camping gear, cooking gear, and food. (See my backpacking gear checklist for a rundown on what you will need – it’s basically the same stuff.) You will also need to pack drinking water for your entire trip as there are very few reliable places to get fresh water on the islands.

Where to Camp in the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait

Established/Formal Campsites

The Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago areas have very few formal campsites. If you want to go camping in the Broughton Archipelago, there are campsites with basic pit toilets at Owl Island and Leone Island, but I didn’t visit them so I can’t tell you what they are like. There are also two BC Recreation Sites on the Vancouver Island side of Johnstone Strait east of Telegraph Cove: Blinkhorn Peninsula and Kaikash Creek. They both have outhouses and campsites. We stayed at Kaikash Creek on our first night and had a once-in-a-lifetime visit from a pod of orcas just off our beach. Magic! We also had lunch at Blinkhorn Peninsula on our last day. There is a great viewpoint from near the navigation light, but the campsites are set back into the beach behind the peninsula.

Informal Campsites

You can also find tons of informal campsites everywhere in the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait. There are large pockets of private land and indigenous land. So you need to check before you camp to make sure it’s allowed. As well, camping in some areas can be tough as the beaches are steep or disappear at high tide and flat ground for tents can be hard to find. The informal campsites don’t have toilets so you will need to be prepared to use your best Leave No Trace bathroom etiquette. 

Private Base Camps

Some guiding companies also have established base camps that only their clients can use. If you’re looking for a glamping experience, you could book with one of those companies. The company I went with doesn’t have a base camp. Instead, they let the weather, currents, and wildlife dictate their schedule. Their guides know about all kinds of hidden campsites throughout the area, so they can adjust their route on the fly. That lets them explore a bigger area, instead of having to paddle back to the same base camp every afternoon. And as a backpacker, the experience of having someone else cook my food and a chair to sit on while I ate it already felt like glamping, so I was glad I didn’t do a base camp experience and get tied down to one area.

Where I Camped

On our trip, we stayed at Kaikash Creek Recreation Site on Vancouver Island, at Freshwater Bay on Swanson Island, and at a small cove on Hanson Island. We had hoped to stay on Flower Island, which is just offshore from Freshwater Bay, but it was full. If you can stay at Flower Island, do it. It has an amazing view of Blackfish Sound and humpbacks constantly cruised right by the shoreline!

I had a life-changing and amazing time kayaking in the Johnstone Strait. I plan to return in the next few years to do a longer trip and explore more of the northern Broughton Archipelago. (And of course, spend some time in the Johnstone Strait to hang out with the whales.) This post should have everything you need to plan your own Johnstone Strait kayaking trip. If you have any questions, as always, leave them in the comments as I’d love to help. (And don’t forget to use code “HAPPIESTOUTDOORS” when you book with At the Water’s Edge Adventures to get 10% off.)

MORE posts I think you’d like:

• Things to do on North Vancouver Island
• Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit: Paddling in British Columbia
• Your Guide to the West Coast Trail in British Columbia
• North Coast Trail Guide: Backpacking on Vancouver Island
• Cape Scott Trail Guide: Hiking and Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
• The Ultimate Guide to the Pacific Marine Circle Route on Vancouver Island
• How to Visit Avatar Grove, Big Lonely Doug and Other Big Trees on Vancouver Island
• Wild Side Trail: Hiking and Camping Guide
• Sunshine on the Edge of the World: Nootka Trail Trip Report

The post Kayaking in the Johnstone Strait: Everything You Need to Know appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Hey there: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! – Taryn

Bear Safety Tips for Hikers

• Check conditions before you go on parks websites or on trailhead signage. If there is a bear in the area (especially if it has been aggressive or has cubs) be prepared or consider hiking somewhere else.
• Watch for bear signs along the trail including scat, tracks and scratches on trees.
• Make noise by talking or singing to announce your presence as humans. The sound of bear bells does not carry as well as the human voice. Make more noise in areas where you are more likely to see or surprise a bear such as in dense brush, near berry patches or in areas with fresh bear signs.
• Avoid encountering a bear by staying on the trail, hiking during the day and leaving the area immediately if you find a dead animal.
• Hike in a small group rather than alone, as bear attacks on groups are virtually unknown.
• Keep pets on a leash. Roaming dogs can agitate bears which then might chase the dog back towards hikers. Not a fun situation for anyone!
• Take care to pack out any garbage or food as it can attract bears. This includes things like apple cores, banana peels and egg shells which give off odor could lure in bears. Remember, a fed bear is a dead bear, even if you accidentally feed it garbage.
• Carry bear spray in place you can reach it quickly (such as attached to the shoulder strap or hip belt of your pack or in an easy to grab outside pocket). Bear spray is relatively lightweight and inexpensive and has been shown to be a better way to stop a bear attack than a gun. You can also carry bear bangers or a small air horn as an additional tool to frighten off bears but they don’t replace bear spray. Find more info on how and when to use bear spray on bearsmart.com.

I recommend: I always carry bear spray if I’m hiking in bear country. I carry it in the side pocket of my pack where I can grab it easily. Buy:  MEC | REI.

Bear Safety Tips for Drive-in Campers

• Check conditions and facility information on the campground website before you go to find out if any bear precautions are recommended or required (such as the Bare Campsite Program).
• Keep a clean campsite: Cook and eat in the same area (preferably away from your tent). Make sure you clean up thoroughly when you are done including any food scraps or spills.
• Store your food (including your cooler), cooking equipment, and toiletries (including sunscreen and bug spray) in your car at night or anytime you are not in your campsite. Never store food or beverages other than water in your tent.
• Place all garbage in a bear-proof garbage can or in your car. Don’t burn garbage in your firepit as it may not burn fully and could still attract bears. Don’t leave garbage in the firepit when go home, expecting the next camper to burn it.

Bear Safety Tips for Backcountry Campers

• Check conditions and facility information on the park website and trailhead signage before you go to find out if any bear precautions are recommended or required. In particular, find out if any food storage or cooking facilities are provided.
• Pick a campsite that is not near game trails, berry patches, or animal carcasses. Avoid blocking access to water sources.
• If you stay at a backcountry campground that has a kitchen shelter, picnic tables or fire rings, use these areas for cooking and eating.
• If there is no designated cooking area, cook and eat in an area 100 meters (100 yards) away from your campsite and the campsites of others. Ideally, your campsite should be located 100m away from your cooking area, which should be located 100m away from your food storage area. Think of these three areas as forming a triangle with each side of the triangle being 100m long.

• Keep a clean cooking area. Make sure you clean up thoroughly when you are done including any food scraps or spills. Never leave garbage in campsites, firepits, cooking areas or on trails as it can attract bears. This includes biodegradable food waste like apple cores, sandwich crusts, banana peels and eggshells.
• Clean your dishes and disperse graywater widely or in a cat-hole away from your campsite and cooking area. Strain out food particles and pack them out with your garbage.
• Never store food, garbage, cooking equipment, toiletries, clothing with spilled food on it, or other scented items (including menstrual supplies) in your tent or backpack. At night or anytime you are away from camp, store these items in a bear-safe manner (see below).
• There are several ways to store food securely in a bear-safe way in the backcountry:
  1. Choose to stay in a designated backcountry campground that has a provided bear locker (a metal locker) or a bear pole (a pole with hooks on it for hanging your food bag).
  2. If a bear locker or bear pole is not available, you will need to construct a bear hang: suspending your food bag from a tree branch at least 1.5 meters (5 feet) from the hanging branch and the trunk of the tree and 4 meters (12 feet) off the ground. Plan ahead by bringing a rope, carabiner and sturdy stuff sack or dry bag to make your hang. This technique can take a lot of practice and is difficult in some areas so give yourself lots of time instead of waiting until it is dark to put up your bear hang. You can find lots of instructions for building a bear hang online.
  3. In some areas (some American National Parks) the use of bear canisters is required or recommended. These sturdy hard plastic containers require tools and/or thumbs to open and thankfully bears have neither. You fill them with your food, garbage, toiletries, etc. then store then well away from your campsite. Bear canisters are heavier, hard to pack, more expensive and bulkier than using a stuff sack and rope. But they are MUCH easier to use. If you camp often in places where bear lockers or poles are not available or above treeline (where bear hangs are impossible), consider investing in a bear canister.

I recommend: I own a Garcia bear canister, a Bear Vault bear canister and an URsack. I prefer the Bear Vault as it is the easiest to pack.

What To Do If You See A Bear

Bears are good runners, swimmers, and tree-climbers. They are definitely faster than you! They also can hear, smell and see better than you can. Thankfully they are usually afraid of you and often just want to be on their way. Here are some basic tips on what to do if you see a bear. Far more detailed tips can be found on the websites like bearsmart.com and others listed in the Further Reading section of this post.

• Be prepared to leave the area and end your hike. If the bear acts aggressively, doesn’t leave the area or you can’t safely make a wide detour around it, save the hike for another day.
• Get your bear spray ready by taking the safety off.
• Don’t run or try to climb a tree. Instead back away slowly while speaking to the bear softly and avoiding eye contact.
• Don’t try to get closer to take photos. Give the bear space.
• Don’t play dead. Black bears eat carrion (dead animals) and that just makes you more attractive. (But note that playing dead can work in some situations during a grizzly bear attack such as a defensive attack where you surprise the bear.)
• Don’t offer the bear food in an attempt to distract it.
• If a black bear comes into your campsite, give the bear a clear escape route, then have your group stand up together and make noise by yelling or banging on things to try to scare the bear away. Unfortunately, this doesn’t work with grizzly bears so it’s probably you who will have to move.
• If the bear comes within close range, use your bear spray and aim for the bear’s eyes.

Further Reading on Bear Safety

BC Parks Bear Safety Guidelines

BearSmart.com

Parks Canada Camping in Bear Country Guidelines

WildSafe BC

More Posts About Backcountry Safety and Ethics

• How to Leave No Trace (And Why it’s Important!)
• How to Leave No Trace With Dogs
• How to Camp and Hike on Your Period
• Backcountry Hygiene the Leave No Trace Way
• Tips for Hiking Alone
• The 10 Essentials: Things You Should Bring on Every Hike
• 16 Things to do Before a Hike

The post Bear Safety for Hikers, Campers and Backpackers appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

Dear Garibaldi Lake Hikers and Campers:

Yesterday, we killed a bear.

We have been coming up to the lake for weeks this summer. We leave trash beside the lake and on the trail. We drop food on the ground and leave it there. We cook in our campsites. We leave spills on the picnic tables. We abandon leftover food and garbage in the kitchen shelters. We sleep with food and toiletries in our tents. We leave our backpacks and snacks unattended while we take photos.

A couple weeks ago a juvenile bear wandered into the Garibaldi Lake campground. It was hungry and alone, likely spending its first season without Mom. The bear was scared of the people in the campground, but it smelled our garbage, our dropped food, our careless mess and it couldn’t resist. The rangers chased the bear away, put up signs warning there was a bear in the area and tried to talk to us about cleaning up, not cooking in our campsite, and storing our food in the shelters.

But we didn’t listen. We kept making a mess. We kept leaving our garbage on the ground and in the shelter. We kept cooking in our campsite. We kept storing food in our tents and in our backpacks.  And the bear still couldn’t resist. It was hungry and alone. And it kept coming back.

Last Saturday was a beautiful sunny summer day at Garibaldi Lake. There were hundreds of day hikers and backpackers at the campground enjoying the view, taking photos, and eating lunch. And in the afternoon, despite all those people, the bear could not resist coming through the campground to look for something to eat. The bear was no longer scared of people.

The rangers chased the bear away again but they knew it would be back. The bear had learned that we weren’t scary and that we would continue to leave food and garbage out for it. Eventually, the bear might have attacked a hiker or ripped open a tent with sleeping campers inside. The rangers knew they only had one option: The bear was sentenced to death. And on Sunday morning a BC Conservation Officer flew into the campground by helicopter.

We killed that bear. Maybe we thought we were just on a camping trip or going for a hike. But in the process, we also killed a bear.

If you don’t want to kill any more bears, please read up on bear safety.

BC Parks Bear Safety Guidelines

BearSmart.com

Parks Canada Camping in Bear Country Guidelines

I’ve also written a post that summarizes bear safety guidelines for hikers, car campers and backpackers.

In memory of this lonely and hungry little bear, please consider sharing this post with your fellow hikers using the social media share buttons below. Let’s get the word out about bear safety.

The post We Killed a Bear appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.