Naikoon Provincial Park Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/naikoon-provincial-park/ Sharing advice, info and inspiration about my happy place: the Great Outdoors. Tue, 08 Oct 2024 17:10:12 +0000 en-CA hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3 https://happiestoutdoors.ca/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/cropped-favicon@3x-32x32.png Naikoon Provincial Park Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/naikoon-provincial-park/ 32 32 Pesuta Shipwreck Trail in Haida Gwaii https://dawnoutdoors.com/pesuta-shipwreck-trail-in-haida-gwaii/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/pesuta-shipwreck-trail-in-haida-gwaii/#respond Thu, 28 Sep 2023 21:09:17 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=18416 When I was researching my trip to Haida Gwaii, I kept coming across photos of a beautifully weathered shipwreck rising out of a sandy beach. I knew I had to visit it! On my trip, I hiked the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail and can confirm it’s really cool in person. To save you from doing a …

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When I was researching my trip to Haida Gwaii, I kept coming across photos of a beautifully weathered shipwreck rising out of a sandy beach. I knew I had to visit it! On my trip, I hiked the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail and can confirm it’s really cool in person.

To save you from doing a bunch of googling like I did before I went (and still not finding all the info I needed), I put together this detailed hiking guide for you.

This Pesuta Shipwreck Trail hiking guide includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Why Hike to the Pesuta Shipwreck?

The Pesuta Shipwreck is one of the most famous things to see in Haida Gwaii. It is a striking shipwreck marooned on an isolated beach in Naikoon Provincial Park. You can find photos of the wreck on postcards, calendars, and travel guides.

The trail is one of the most popular hikes in Haida Gwaii. The easy trail follows the Tlell River and then the beach so you get to experience both rainforest and coastal ecosystems.

The Pesuta Shipwreck hike is also the start of the 89-kilometre-long East Beach Trail, which follows the coast to the northernmost tip of Haida Gwaii at Rose Spit before curling back south to end at Tow Hill.

A woman walks in front of a log covered in salal on the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail in Haida Gwaii
Hiking along the river towards the shipwreck

History of the Pesuta Shipwreck

Originally known as the “Pezuta”, the Pesuta was a 264-foot (80 metre) coal-fired wooden steamship. It was built in Raymond, Washington during World War I as part of the US Shipping Board’s Emergency Shipbuilding Program to support the war efforts. However, the Pesuta was finished shortly after the war ended and considered surplus.

The ship ended up in Vancouver and in 1927 it was retrofitted as a barge to serve as a lumber carrier. On December 11, 1928, a tug was towing the loaded Pesuta past the mouth of the Tlell River in rough weather. The barge ran aground and was wrecked.

A salvage operation took what they could from the barge to Port Clements and Prince Rupert and left the rest to the elements. Decades of storms and tides have weathered the wood, but the bow of the Pesuta still sits on the beach. For some unknown reason, over the years, “Pezuta” began to be misspelled as Pesuta, and that’s what it is called today.

Trail Stats

Here are the basic stats that you need to know about the hike to the Pesuta Shipwreck:

Duration: 3 to 4 hours

Distance: 12 km round trip

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 45 m

Best Time to Go: The trail is best between March and November. You can still hike during the winter months but expect periods of ice, snow, and frost.

Toilets: There is an outhouse at the trailhead parking area. There are no other toilets on the trail.

Dogs: Dogs are allowed on leash only as per BC Park’s regulations.

Tides: Parts of this trail may be inaccessible at the highest tides. Check the tide table for Tlell before you go and plan to hike at low to moderate tides.

Biking: The trail is open to bikes. I would recommend a mountain bike or gravel bike with wider tires. Be prepared to walk your bike a bit in the rootiest areas and in the deep sand and gravel at the end.

Caution: The second half of the trail along the beach is open to 4×4 vehicles and ATVs. Use caution when vehicles are on the trail.

Pesuta Shipwreck Trail Map

The trail to the Pesuta Shipwreck is fairly straightforward because, for the most part, you just follow the beach. There are also signs at a few of the potentially confusing points. But to help you find your way, I made you a trail map using Gaia GPS, my favourite GPS mapping app. Click through to zoom in and explore.

How to Get to the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail

The trailhead for the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail is fairly easy to find. It is located on the side of Highway 16 next to the Tlell River Bridge. The trailhead is also known as the East Beach Trailhead since the hike to the shipwreck is just the first portion of that 89-kilometre-long backpacking trip.

If you are coming from the south, reset your odometer at the Crow’s Nest Cafe in Tlell. Drive 6.5 km north on Highway 16 and look for the trailhead on the right just after you cross the bridge over the Tlell River. Click here for Google Maps driving directions.

If you are coming from the north, reset your odometer at the turn-off to Mayer Lake (Naikoon Provincial Park). Drive 10 km south on Highway 16 and look for the trailhead on your left just before you cross the bridge over the Tlell River. Click here for Google Maps driving directions.

Pesuta Shipwreck Trail Hiking Directions

The trailhead has a large info sign about the Pesuta and East Beach Trails as well as picnic tables. There is also an outhouse a few metres down the trail. There are two phases to the trail: the first 2.5 km in the forest and the second 3.5 km on the beach.

The Forest

The first part of the trail is fairly flat as you walk through a forest of tall spruce and hemlock trees with lots of ferns.

Hikers walk through the forest on Haida Gwaii
Hiking through the forest at the beginning of the trail

After a few minutes, follow the trail to the left as it heads uphill on a staircase built into the side of the hill. (The trail to the right goes to the river.)

A hiker walks up a set of stairs in the forest on the East Beach Trail
Climbing the staircase

From here, the trail follows the edge of the high river bank with the Tlell River downhill to your right. The footbed here can be very rooty and a little bit muddy in a few places, so watch your step. But in general, it is easy walking.

A trail marker with a Haida design
The trail is easy to follow. I loved these trail markers with a Haida design.

About 1.5 km from the start, ignore a trail descending to the right that goes to the river. Stay on the main trail as it swings around to the left and then crosses a few wooden boardwalks before arriving at the wooden bridge across Geikie Creek.

A hiker crosses the wooden bridge over Geikie Creek in Naikoon Provincial Park
Crossing the bridge over Geikie Creek

A few minutes later, the trail emerges from the forest on the banks of the Tlell River. You can see the gardens at the Haida House at Tllaal Hotel on the other side. A sign near here says that the shipwreck is 2.5 km away. It’s actually about 3.5 km from here.

Looking across the Tlell River to Haida House
Looking across the Tlell River to Haida House

The Beach

The trail follows a wide dirt road beside the river for the next two kilometres. In August and September, watch for salmon jumping as they head upstream to spawn.

Two hikers walk along a sandy road next to the Tlell River
Walking the dirt road next to the river.

As you near the river’s mouth, the vegetation on the other side of the river thins as it transitions to sand dunes. You can hear waves breaking on the other side of the spit in the Hecate Strait. The forest on your right also slowly gives way to tall sand dunes and the road becomes sandier.

Two hikers walk along a beach next to the Tlell River in Naikoon Provincial Park
Nearing the mouth of the river.

About 4.5 km from the start, reach the mouth of the river. The dirt road gets fainter here as you continue across the beach. In some areas, you will sink in the soft sand or loose gravel. Keep walking towards the wreck of the Pesuta, which you can see in the distance.

Two hikers walk on the beach on the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail
The forest starts to give way to dunes

Reach the Pesuta Phipwreck about 6 km from the start. Take some time to wander around and marvel at the nearly 100-year-old structure. All that remains is the bow of the ship, but you can still see the metal portholes. The flatness of the beach makes the Pesuta appear huge.

Pesuta shipwreck on Haida Gwaii
Exploring the shipwreck
Close-up of the front of the Pesuta Shipwreck
The front of the shipwreck
Looking down at the Pesuta Shipwreck from the dunes on Haida Gwaii
Looking down from the dunes

Take some time to have a snack, snap some photos, and enjoy the scenery. When you are finished, retrace your steps back to the trailhead. Be sure to pay attention to signs to follow the trail off the beach road and back into the forest.

So that’s everything you need to know about hiking to the Pesuta Shipwreck in Haida Gwaii. If you have questions about the hike, leave them in the comments so I can help you out.

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Tow Hill and the Blow Hole Hike in Haida Gwaii https://dawnoutdoors.com/tow-hill-haida-gwaii/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/tow-hill-haida-gwaii/#respond Wed, 27 Sep 2023 22:21:39 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=18418 Tow Hill is one of the best hikes in Haida Gwaii. The short trail is located in the northern part of the archipelago in Naikoon Provincial Park. Known as Taaw Tldáaw in Haida, Tow Hill is next to the Blow Hole, another gorgeous natural feature. I couldn’t find that much reliable info about it before …

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Tow Hill is one of the best hikes in Haida Gwaii. The short trail is located in the northern part of the archipelago in Naikoon Provincial Park. Known as Taaw Tldáaw in Haida, Tow Hill is next to the Blow Hole, another gorgeous natural feature.

I couldn’t find that much reliable info about it before my trip, so after my visit I put together this hiking guide for you. It has details on my recommended loop hike route that takes you to both Tow Hill and the Blow Hole.

In this Tow Hill hiking guide you will find:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Why Visit Tow Hill?

The trail to Tow Hill is one of the most popular hikes in Haida Gwaii. It’s an easy hike that leads to great viewpoints of the coastline. The forested trail is also gorgeous with lots of moss, fern, and cedar trees.

The Blow Hole at the nearby beach is also worth a visit to see the unique rock formations. It is also the best place to take photos of the unique volcanic column formations on the cliffs of Tow Hill.

I think Tow Hill is a must-see for anyone visiting Haida Gwaii. It was one of my favourite stops on my trip.

Panoramic view from the top of Tow Hill in Haida Gwaii
The view from the top of Tow Hill

Indigenous Context

Tow Hill is now officially known as Taaw Tldáaw (pronounced t-ow tl-dow), the original Haida name. The name change was made official in 2022. However, you will still see it referred to as Tow Hill in most places.

In the Haida culture, Taaw is a supernatural being. There are several stories about Taaw and Tow Hill. One story says that Taaw travelled along the coast looking for a place to settle. Once he arrived at the mouth of the Hiellen River, he decided to stay and became Tow Hill.

The same Haida story says that Taaw’s brother was angry with him and sent a whale and a large bird to attack him. That caused rocks to fall from Taaw’s body, forming the rocky beach you see today. The “whale” spouts from the Blow Hole.

You can read more Haida stories about Taaw on info signs at the trailhead and along the trail.

A man hikes along rocks near the Blow Hole in Naikoon Provincial Park on Haida Gwaii
Exploring the rocks near the Blow Hole. You can see the interpretive signs on the viewing platform.

Tow Hill Geology

The northern part of Haida Gwaii is very flat and marshy. Although Tow Hill is only 125 m (410 ft) tall, it towers over the surrounding landscape. The hill is actually an extinct volcano, formed when lava bubbled up to the surface 2 million years ago.

The unique rock columns you can see on the ocean side of the hill were formed in the hill’s core. But glaciers from the last ice age and the pounding surf have carved the rest of the hill away, leaving the columns exposed.

A man sits on a rock in front of the cliffs at Tow Hill
The volcanic columns at Tow Hill.

Trail Stats

Below I’ve got trail stats for the hike to Tow Hill only, the hike to the Blow Hole, and a combo of the two that is my recommended route. As well, here are a few things to know about the hikes at Tow Hill:

Best Time to Go: The trail is best between March and November. You can still hike during the winter months, but expect periods of ice, snow, and frost.

Toilets: There is an outhouse at the trailhead parking area. There are no other toilets on the trail.

Dogs: Dogs are allowed on leash only as per BC Park’s regulations. As well, several dogs have died when off-leash on this trail after they fell off cliffs, so please be careful.

Accessibility: The trail to the Blow Hole viewing platform is wheelchair accessible on smooth gravel and wooden boardwalk. The remainder of the trails include stairs or rock scrambles and are not accessible.

Caution: There are sheer cliffs on this hike. Stay behind railings and avoid the edge.

Tow Hill Only Hike Stats

Below are the stats for an out-and-back hike to Tow Hill only.

Duration: 1 hour

Distance: 2.3 km round trip

Difficulty: Easy/Moderate

Elevation Gain: 120 m

Blow Hole Only Hike Stats

Below are the stats for an out-and-back hike to the Blow Hole only.

Duration: 30 min

Distance: 2 km round trip

Difficulty: Easy

Elevation Gain: 30 m

Tow Hill and the Blow Hole Combo Hike Stats (Recommended Route)

Below are the stats for my recommended loop route that heads to the Blow Hole first, then carries on to Tow Hill before finishing back at the trailhead.

Duration: 1.5 hours

Distance: 3.1 km loop

Difficulty: Easy/Moderate

Elevation Gain: 120 m

Tow Hill and the Blow Hole Trail Map

The trails to Tow Hill and the Blow Hole are easy to follow with signs at every junction. But to help you find your way, I made you a trail map using Gaia GPS, my favourite GPS mapping app. Click through to zoom in and explore.

How to Get to Tow Hill

Getting to Tow Hill is a fairly straightforward 30-minute drive from Masset. Go north on Highway 16 from Masset, which becomes Tow Hill Road north of town. After a few minutes, the road turns to gravel but it is fairly smooth and well-graded, so it is fine for any vehicle. The road heads through a beautiful rainforest into Naikoon Provincial Park.

Pass the entrance to the Agate Beach Campground on your left about 23 km after leaving Masset. Arrive at the trailhead two kilometres later. There is a parking area on the left and an information kiosk. If you cross the bridge over the Hiellen River and arrive at Hiellen Village, you have gone too far.

Click here for Google Maps driving directions.

Tow Hill trailhead sign
The trailhead sign is next to the parking area.

Tow Hill and the Blow Hole Hiking Directions

From the trailhead, you can choose to hike to either Tow Hill or the Blow Hole. However, my recommended route connects the two so you can complete both hikes in a loop with minimal backtracking. As well, my route climbs the hill from the gentler east side instead of the steeper south side.

The Blow Hole

To start my recommended route, follow the trail past the info board, picnic tables, and outhouse. The first portion of your hike, all the way to the Blow Hole is wheelchair accessible so you will be walking on wide boardwalks.

For the first few minutes, the path parallels the Hiellen River. You can look through the trees to Hiellen Village and the huge monumental pole.

View of the monumental pole at Hiellen Village in Naikoon Provincial Park in Haida Gwaii
Looking across the river to the monumental pole at Hiellen Village

After hiking about 200 metres, reach a junction. Your route goes straight to visit the Blow Hole first. The trail on the left is the way you will return from the peak.

Trail sign at Tow Hill in Haida Gwaii
Trail sign at the first junction. My recommended loop route goes straight towards the Blow Hole before looping back to Tow Hill.

Continue along the smooth wooden boardwalk towards the Blow Hole. Sometimes you can glimpse the coast to your right through the trees. Several benches and info signs give you opportunities to take a break.

Two hikers walk along the wheelchair accessible boardwalk at Tow Hill in Naikoon Provincial Park
Walking along the wheelchair accessible boardwalk

About 900 metres from the start reach another junction. Ignore the left turn for now and continue straight to the Blow Hole. A large wooden platform here provides a great view of North Beach and Rose Spit in the distance. You can scramble across the rocks for more views.

View of Rose Spit and North Beach from the Blow Hole in Haida Gwaii
Looking north to Rose Spit from the Blow Hole Viewpoint

To visit the Blow Hole, either take the wooden stairs or clamber down the rocks to the southwest. The Blow Hole can be hard to spot initially if the tide isn’t right. Listen and look carefully – the splashing of the waves will show you where it is. Tip: Go on a rising tide with a moderate swell for the best splashes!

Rock formations near the Blow Hole in Haida Gwaii
Exploring the rock formations at the Blow Hole

There are also great views of the volcanic cliffs of Tow Hill from here. This was one of my favourite spots on Haida Gwaii. Take some time to explore all the rock formations.

View of the cliffs at Tow Hill from the Blow Hole in Naikoon Provincial Park
The Blow Hole viewpoint is the best place to see the columns

Tow Hill

When have finished enjoying the Blow Hole, retrace your steps back to the last junction and go right. The boardwalk trail climbs gently through the forest, sometimes with the help of a few stairs. You will be thankful for the boardwalks in the boggy and mossy sections which can be very wet.

Forest boardwalk on the Tow Hill trail in Haida Gwaii
The first part of the climb is gradual.

After about half a kilometre of gentle ascent, reach another junction. Turn right to begin the steep climb to the peak. The trail zigzags back and forth up the hill so the grade remains manageable even though it is definitely a workout.

A hiker walks along a trail with stairs in the forest on the way to Tow Hill
The forest gets tighter as the trail gets steeper.

A few minutes from the junction, reach a wooden viewing platform with a telescope. The view of North Beach and Rose Spit from here is incredible, although trees in the foreground do block the view a little bit. This is also a good place to catch your breath.

A person looks through binoculars at North Beach and Rose Spit.
Looking down to North Beach and Rose Spit from the viewpoint

Continue onwards (and upwards) from the viewing platform for the final push up to the summit. The trail curls around to the west and finishes at another viewing platform with a telescope. This one is perched on the side of the cliff and looks west along the beach to Masset. From here, the boggy interior of Naikoon Provincial Park is really prominent.

View from the top of Tow Hill in Haida Gwaii
Looking south to Agate Beach and Masset from the top

The true summit of Tow Hill is a few minutes away in the forest. However, there is no trail and it doesn’t have a view. There are also lots of cliffs in the area, so stay on the main trail.

When you are ready to descend, follow the trail back down the hill, past the other viewing platform, to the junction. Go straight down the hill, following the trail and boardwalk through more switchbacks. The path levels out a little bit towards the bottom before finally arriving at another junction.

Flat boardwalk trail in Naikoon Provincial Park
The short section of flat boardwalk at the end of the hike.

To finish your hike, go right along the boardwalk past the picnic tables and outhouse to the trailhead and parking area.

So that’s everything you need to know about hiking to Tow Hill and the Blow Hole in Haida Gwaii. If you have questions about the hike, leave them in the comments so I can help you out.

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Things to Do in Haida Gwaii https://dawnoutdoors.com/things-to-do-in-haida-gwaii/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/things-to-do-in-haida-gwaii/#respond Thu, 24 Aug 2023 04:18:55 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=18352 For years I’ve been dreaming of going to Haida Gwaii, the remote archipelago off the northwest coast of British Columbia. I had heard that the scenery was incredible, there was lots of wildlife, and the Indigenous Haida art and culture were worth seeing. Now that I’ve been to Haida Gwaii, I can’t wait to go …

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For years I’ve been dreaming of going to Haida Gwaii, the remote archipelago off the northwest coast of British Columbia. I had heard that the scenery was incredible, there was lots of wildlife, and the Indigenous Haida art and culture were worth seeing.

Now that I’ve been to Haida Gwaii, I can’t wait to go back. Everything I had heard about it was true… and somehow it was even more special than I had thought.

Since it’s a long way to go, planning a trip to Haida Gwaii can be intimidating. But it’s definitely worth the trip! In this post, I’ve got everything you might ever need to know about these magical islands.

This Haida Gwaii guide includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Thanks so much for BC Ferries for hosting me on this trip. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

Calm water in front of a boat in Gwaii Hanaas National park
Incredibly calm water in Gwaii Hanaas National Park

Haida Gwaii Basics

What’s with the name?

In the language of the Haida, the local Indigenous people, Haida Gwaii means “Islands of the Haida people.” It is pronounced “hy-dah gwhy”.

From 1787 to 2010, the islands were officially called the Queen Charlotte Islands, often nicknamed “the Charlottes”. You will still find this name on some maps.

Where is Haida Gwaii?

Haida Gwaii is located about 100 kilometres off the west coast of British Columbia, near the border with Alaska. There are two main islands: Graham Island (where most people live) and Moresby Island, along with about 400 smaller islands.

Why Visit Haida Gwaii?

Some of the reasons to visit Haida Gwaii include incredible Indigenous culture and art, a unique ecosystem, which has been called Canada’s Galapagos, opportunities to view wildlife (including bears and whales), old-growth forests, and great hiking, camping, kayaking, and fishing. I’ve got lots of info on all of this below.

How Long to Spend in Haida Gwaii

I would recommend spending a week in Haida Gwaii. That gives you enough time to see the highlights and to take a boat tour to Gwaii Haanas National Park. If you want to plan a shorter trip, 4-5 days would be the bare minimum. I spent 10 days on Haida Gwaii and honestly, I wish we had stayed for a few more days.

Best Time to Go to Haida Gwaii

The best time to go to Haida Gwaii is between May and September. Those are the months when the weather is nicest and most tours are running. If you visit outside of those months, you will find many businesses are closed.

While Haida Gwaii is never too crowded, it is much less busy in May and September than it is in June, July, and August. Most visitors come in the summer months. I went in June and we enjoyed mostly sunny weather. As well, most of the attractions were pretty quiet.

If you want to enjoy the best bird watching and whale watching, May and September are great since that’s when the birds and whales migrate through the islands. September is also a good month for wildlife watching as the salmon spawning season begins.

Weather in Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii has a coastal climate and is in northern British Columbia.

In general, it is fairly rainy. The driest months are May, June, and July. August and September are also relatively dry. October through February are very wet with 150-175 mm (6-7″) of rain each month. You should expect rain on any trip to Haida Gwaii, even in the summer.

July and August are the warmest months with daily temperatures of 10-18°C (50-64°F). May, June, and September are a little cooler. In the winter (November to March) temperatures are close to freezing – typically 1-7°C (34-45°F).

Graph of climate in Haida Gwaii showing average temperature and precipitation.
Climate graph for Haida Gwaii from Environment Canada’s Climate Normals for Tlell.

Cell Phone Coverage

You will find cell phone coverage in all of the major towns in Haida Gwaii and along most of the east coast of Graham Island. In many places, cell phone signal strength is too weak to use data. However, as soon as you leave the towns, you will likely lose service.

Indigenous Context

The Haida people have lived on Haida Gwaii since time immemorial. Pre-contact, there were tens of thousands of Haida spread over several dozen towns. When smallpox and other infectious diseases were introduced by European colonizers (perhaps deliberately), the population plummeted to around 600.

Today the Haida people make up half of the 5000-strong population of Haida Gwaii. Most Haida in Haida Gwaii live in Skidegate and Old Masset. There are also about 2,500 Haida living elsewhere in BC. There are also Haida villages in southern Alaska, another part of their traditional territory.

The Haida Nation collectively holds Hereditary and Aboriginal Title and Rights to Haida Territories and the government structure of Haida Gwaii incorporates the Council of the Haida Nation.

Haida culture permeates the entire region, even in areas dominated by settlers (non-Haida people). The Haida word for thank-you, haaw’a (pronounced how-ah), is something you will hear everyone saying. You should say it too!

Haida Gwaii and Gwaii Haanas National Park are one of the best places to experience Indigenous culture in Canada.

The Haida Gwaii Pledge

To help visitors respect this special place, the Haida Nation developed the Haida Gwaii Pledge. All visitors are encouraged to read and sign the pledge.

A man hikes along rocks near the Blow Hole in Naikoon Provincial Park on Haida Gwaii
Hiking near the Blow Hole in Naikoon Provincial Park

Haida Gwaii Map

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Google Map of Haida Gwaii for you. It includes every single place I mention in this post.

Map of Haida Gwaii showing towns, ferry terminals, and things to do
Click the map the zoom in.

Best Things to Do in Haida Gwaii

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

The entire southern part of Haida Gwaii is protected in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. The park’s name means “Islands of Beauty” in the Haida language. Containing over 100 islands, the national park is known for its incredible scenery, wildlife, and Indigenous culture.

Since the park is only accessible by water, the best way to see it is on a tour. You can book kayak, sailing, or motorboat tours. Most tours are 3-7 days long as it’s a big area to cover. But you can book single-day tours that cover a few of the main sites. Be sure to book tours well in advance as they sell out.

I did a four-day tour with Moresby Explorers. We saw all of the major sites in the park and stopped and lots of remote beaches. I definitely recommend them.

Moresby Explorers boat moored in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
Moresby Explorers boat at anchor in Gwaii Hanaas National Park

Some of the most well-known and popular sites in Haida Gwaii are in Gwaii Haanas National Park. These Haida Heritage sites are protected by Haida Watchmen, members of the Haida Nation who provide important historical and cultural context.

For more info, check out my huge guide to Gwaii Haanas National Park. The main attractions in Gwaii Hanaas National Park include:

Wildlife Watching

Gwaii Hanaas National Park is known for its incredible wildlife. Grey and humpback whales migrate through the islands and orcas (killer whales), Minke whales, dolphins, porpoises, seals, and sea lions are year-round residents.

A sea lion colony on a rocky islet in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
We spent a long time watching the sea lions on this rocky islet. They were hilarious as they flopped around and growled at each other.

Haida Gwaii also has its own sub-species of black bears (Ursus americans carlottae). It’s a bit bigger than black bears in the rest of British Columbia since it lives on a high-fat diet of salmon and shellfish. Spotting black bears on the beaches is common.

The National Park is also a great place for bird watching. Parks Canada says about 1.5 million seabirds nest in the park. On my trip, we spotted lots of bald eagles, ancient murrelets, black oystercatchers, cormorants, and pigeon guillemots. But the highlight was a pair of tufted puffins!

SGang Gwaay

Located on Anthony Island near the southern tip of Gwaii Hannas National Park, SGang Gwaay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This Haida Village site still has many standing monumental poles (often incorrectly called totem poles), as well as the remains of many long houses.

Sgang Gwaay Heritage Site in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
The standing memorial poles at SGang Gwaay are so powerful in person

K’uuna/Skedans

This is the northernmost of the Haida Village sites, making it the easiest to visit. It includes remains of long houses as well as a few carvings and poles.

A potlach pole still stands at K'uuna (Skedans) in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
This potlatch pole at K’uuna (Skedans) is still standing (barely)

T’aanuu (Tanu)

This Haida Village site has a few long house remains. It was low tide when we visited, and the watchmen pointed out an old octopus farm that the Haida had cleared out of the rocks. It is the ancestral village of famous the Haida carver, Bill Reid.

A Haida octopus farm at Tanu in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
An old octopus farm exposed at low tide. The octopuses would have lived in the rock piles.

Hot Springs Island

Known as Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay in Haida, these hot springs have been used for generations by the Haida people. The pools mysteriously drained in 2012 following an earthquake, but today they are back and flowing into new pools. Bring your swimsuit so you can soak!

Soaking at Hot Springs Island in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
The pools at Hot Springs Island have an incredible view

Windy Bay

Called Hlk’yah GawG̱a in Haida, this is an important site in the Haida protest movement that led to the creation of Gwaii Haanas National Park. The site includes a huge old-growth Sitka spruce and a modern monumental pole, raised to mark the anniversary of the founding of the park.

The memorial pole and watchmen cabin at Windy Bay in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
The memorial pole and Haida Watchmen cabin at Windy Bay

Haida Gwaii Museum

The huge Haida Gwaii Museum is a must-see for any visitor. Designed to look like a series of longhouses in a traditional Haida village, the sprawling museum is located inside the larger Haida Heritage Centre complex. It has wonderful displays about Haida history and culture.

The exterior of the Haida Gwaii Museum
The outside of the Haida Gwaii Museum is designed to look like a row of long houses in a village. (Photos aren’t allowed inside.)

You can find lots of historical and contemporary carvings, art, and poles, some of which have been returned to the Haida after being looted from ancient village sites and taken to museums around the world.

Plan to spend at least a few hours here. Some visitors prefer to visit the museum first, to give context to the rest of their time on Haida Gwaii. We went to the museum on our last day, and to me, it felt more powerful to see some of the art and historical displays in person after hearing about them earlier in our trip. That way we knew which pieces were most significant.

Naikoon Provincial Park

Naikoon Provincial Park covers the northernmost part of Haida Gwaii. The huge park has lots of hiking trails, beaches, and rainforests. A few sections of the park are accessible by car. But to get to most of the park you will need to hike.

Here’s a rundown of the park highlights:

Tow Hill and the Blowhole

Called Taaw Tldáaw in Haida, Tow Hill rises 125 meters above the otherwise flat coastal marsh of Naikoon Provincial Park. On the seaward side of the hill is a spectacular cliff with volcanic rocks. You can follow a short but steep hiking trail to the top of Tow Hill for spectacular views.

View from the top of Tow Hill in Haida Gwaii
Looking south to Agate Beach and Masset from the top of Tow Hill

Tow Hill/Taaw Tldáaw is an important place in Haida culture and history. Plaques along the trail explain its significance.

You can also follow a flat and easy trail to the beach to look up at Tow Hill from below. This is also where you will find the Blow Hole. When the tides and waves are right, water splashes up from a chasm between the rocks. Tip: Go on a rising tide when there is moderate swell.

Read my Tow Hill hiking guide for all the details.

Tow Hill in Naikoon Provincial Park
Tow Hill from the beach. The Blow Hole is in the rocks in the foreground.

Hiellen Village

Hiellen Village isn’t actually in Naikoon Provincial Park, but it is next to Tow Hill and surrounded by the park. Today the campground and longhouse-style cabins are operated by the Haida Nation. The site is a historical Haida village and was a battleground for conflicts between the Haida and the Nisga’a.

The village is the starting point for hikes or drives on North Beach (see below). It also has a spectacular modern monumental pole.

Memorial pole at Hiellen Village in Haida Gwaii
Modern memorial pole at Hiellen Village

North Beach and Rose Spit

Sandy North Beach (Gaatsguusd) stretches for about 10 kilometres north of Tow Hill to Rose Spit, which is the northernmost part of Haida Gwaii. You can hike, bike, ATV, or drive along the sand out to the Rose Spit Ecological Reserve, which protects a unique dune ecosystem.

You will see a lot of locals driving on the beach here. Don’t try it in a rental car, as you will violate your rental agreement. And if you are in your own car, be careful as it is easy to get stuck.

As well, the park has clear guidelines on where you can drive to protect the ecosystem. You must drive below the high tide line or on designated roads.

A person looks through binoculars at Tow Hill on Haida Gwaii. They are looking at North Beach and Rose Spit.
Looking down to North Beach and Rose Spit from the viewpoint on the Tow Hill Trail.

Rose Spit (Kadls Kun) is also a very important Haida site. In the Haida creation story, a raven opened a clam shell to release the first Haida at Rose Spit. This story is depicted in Haida Carver Bill Reid’s famous sculpture, The Raven and the First Men, on display at Vancouver’s Museum of Anthropology.

Agate Beach

When I was planning my trip to Haida Gwaii, lots of people told me I had to camp at Agate Beach and it did not disappoint. The steep gravel beach has incredible views of Tow Hill, the sunset, and even glaciers in Alaska (which are best seen through binoculars).

Sunset at Agate Beach in Naikoon Provincial Park
A spectacular sunset at Agate Beach

It’s also a popular spot for crab fishing. We met lots of locals and regular visitors who were wading through the surf at low tide, scooping up crabs with nets. I had never seen this style of crab fishing before (I’ve only ever used a trap), and wished we had bought gear to try it out.

Most of the campsites are right at the edge of the beach. If you don’t plan to camp, it’s worth visiting for a picnic.

East Beach, Cape Ball, and Cafe Fife

If you think North Beach is long, then check out East Beach. It’s over 70 kilometres long! The beach stretches between the village of Tlell and the tip of Rose Spit. The easiest way to see it is to hike the first section to the Pesuta Shipwreck (see below) or beyond to Cape Ball where there is a cabin and backcountry campsite.

Hiking the East Beach Trail near the Pesuta Shipwreck
Hiking the East Beach Trail near Pesuta Shipwreck

But you can also hike the entire thing on the East Beach Trail, a 90-kilometre route that starts in Tlell, goes around Rose Spit, and then finishes at Tow Hill.

You can also reach East Beach by hiking the Cape Fife Trail across the interior of Naikoon Peninsula from North Beach near Tow Hill to Cape Fife on East Beach. There is a rustic cabin and campsite here too.

Pesuta Shipwreck

The hike along the Tlell River to East Beach and the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail is one of the most popular trails in Haida Gwaii. The flat hike has beautiful scenery and ends at a spectacular shipwreck, the remains of a log barge that was wrecked in 1928.

Read my Pesuta Shipwreck Trail guide for all the details.

A woman walks next to the Pesuta Shipwreck in Haida Gwaii
Hiking to the Pesuta Shipwreck

Villages in Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii’s population is fairly small and is clustered into a few villages. You will likely end up visiting a few of them since that’s where you can find groceries, restaurants, gas stations, and hotels. But there are other things to see too.

Here’s a quick overview of what to see in each of Haida Gwaii’s Villages:

Sandspit

Sandspit is the only town on Moresby Island, the southern of Haida Gwaii’s two major islands. This is where you will find the Sandspit Airport with direct flights to Vancouver. It’s also the starting point for many tours to Gwaii Hanaas National Park. In Haida, Sandspit is known as K’il Kun.

With a population of about 300, there isn’t much going on in Sandspit. However, they do have a small grocery store, a gas station, and a golf course. The Sandspit Visitor Centre at the airport is also a helpful stop if you’ve just arrived.

The salmon sculpture in Sandspit, BC
The huge salmon sculpture in Sandspit

The long beach is also great for a walk at low tide. Don’t miss the unique wood and cedar sculpture of a salmon near the airport. You can also follow the Spit Trail all the way around the perimeter of the airport.

On the drive to Sandspit from the ferry landing, stop at Onward Point to walk through the trees to a whale viewing platform.

Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte City)

With a population of about 1000, Daajing Giids is the largest town in Haida Gwaii. The town was known as Queen Charlotte City from the 1880s until 2022, and you will still find that name on some maps and signs.

But it reverted to its Haida name as part of the process of restoring traditional names on Haida Gwaii. Pronounced, “daw-jean geeds”, the name means cedar dance hat.

Daajing Giids has lots of services for visitors including a grocery store, gas station, and restaurants. If you are looking for art and gifts, head to Funk It. The visitor centre also has lots of helpful info as well as a good gift shop. I also loved looking at their big relief map of Haida Gwaii.

Be sure to enjoy the view from outside the visitor centre and check out the whale sculpture. Or head a few minutes west from town to Haydn Turner Park where you can follow a short trail through the forest to the beach.

Whale sculpture outside the Daajing Giids visitor centre
The whale sculpture outside of the Daajing Giids visitor centre

Skidegate

Skidegate (HlGaagilda) is a large Haida community with a population of about 850. The grocery store and gas station are on the highway, but most of the village is tucked away between the highway and the ocean.

The village has a forest of monumental poles, which are neat to see. There is also a great gift shop called Longhouse Gift Shop.

Memorial pole in a park in Skidegate, BC
A memorial pole in a park in Skidegate

When visiting Haida villages such as Skidegate and Old Masset, be respectful. Don’t take pictures without asking, especially pictures of people. Keep in mind that many monumental poles are memorial poles, erected to mark graves, and photography may not be appropriate.

The Haida Gwaii Museum is located just west of the village and the BC Ferries dock for ferries to Prince Rupert and Moresby Island is a few minutes past that at Skidegate Landing (GuhlGa Llnagaay).

Tlell

Unlike the other villages in Haida Gwaii, Tlell (spelled Tll.all in Haida) doesn’t really have a town centre. Instead, it is a cluster of houses, farms, and artist studios that spreads over a few kilometres close to the coast and the Tllel River. It has a population of about 180 people.

Tlell has a small store/cafe with limited hours, but no other services. The village is known for the Edge of the World Music Festival in August.

Tlell is at the southern end of Naikoon Provincial Park, so you will find the starting point for the Pesuta Shipwreck and East Beach hikes here along with the Misty Meadows Campground.

The beach at Misty Meadows Campground in Naikoon Provincial Park
The beach at Misty Meadows Campground

Port Clements

Located on the calm tidal waters of Masset Inlet, Port Clements is Haida Gwaii’s main logging town. It has a population of about 280 and has a grocery store, gas station/cafe, and a pub. In Haida, Port Clements is called Gamadiis.

The pier in Port Clements, Haida Gwaii
The long pier in Port Clements

The Port Clements Historical Society museum has a huge display of old logging machines on their grounds that you can visit anytime. Be sure to walk behind the building to check out the view of the harbour.

They also have a small museum building with lots of historical gadgets. They also have exhibits about the famous Port Clements white raven, an albino bird, and the Golden Spruce (see below).

Masset and Old Massett

Masset and Old Massett are two villages set side-by-side at the northern end of Haida Gwaii. Old Massett (Gaw Tlagee) has a population of about 550 and is a Haida village. Masset is a settler village and home to about 800 people.

Masset was a military base during WWII and the Cold War. Today it has an airport as well as a grocery store, gas station, and lots of businesses. They also have a small museum, the Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum, but it wasn’t open on the day I visited.

Old Massett is a few minutes northwest of Masset and like Skidegate, has a ton of monumental poles. Remember to be respectful when visiting and take photos ethically. Old Masset also has several gift shops and artist studios. We stopped at Sarah’s Haida Arts and Jewellery. We wanted to stop at Gin Kuyaas Haida Art, but it was closed the day we visited.

The outside of Sarah's Gift Shop in Old Massett, BC
The exterior of Sarah’s Haida Arts and Jewellery

Farmer’s Markets

Since Haida Gwaii’s artists and farmers are so spread out and have limited opening hours, the best way to shop for local goods is to visit a farmer’s market. As of 2023, the market schedule is as follows:

Sandspit: Sundays from 11am to 1pm, June to early September

Daajing Giids: Saturdays 11am to 2pm, year-round

Tlell: Sundays from 11am to 2pm, May to early October

Masset: Fridays from 11am to 2pm, year-round

Vendors at the Tlell Farmers' Market
Vendors at the Tlell Farmers’ Market

Spirit Lake Trail

The Spirit Lake Trail is a short and easy hike near Skidegate. In Haida, it is called GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu. There is a beautiful carving at the entrance, which tells the story of a spirit (‘waasguu or wasgo) who lived in the lakes.

Boardwalks on the Spirit Lake Trail near Skidegate, BC
Boardwalks on the Spirit Lake Trail

The trail makes loops around two lakes. There are interpretive signs along the way explaining the cultural and spiritual significance of plants and animals.

There are also several culturally modified trees where the Haida harvested cedar bark or made test holes in trees to see if they would make good canoes or monumental poles.

Balance Rock

One of Haida Gwaii’s most unique natural sites is Balance Rock. A boulder the size of a cube van balances precariously on the oceanside rocks. Retreating glaciers deposited the rock during the last ice age, a few thousand years ago.

Balance Rock in Haida Gwaii
Balance Rock. That’s Sandspit in the background across the inlet.

Given the rock’s position on the shoreline and proximity to the waves, it is surprising that it has stayed balanced for all these years! The rock makes for a fun photo op. You can find it via a short trail from the highway just north of Skidegate.

Golden Spruce Trail

Known as Kiidk’yaas in Haida, the Golden Spruce was a Sitka spruce tree with a genetic mutation that made its needles gold instead of green. The tree was illegally cut down in 1997 as a protest against the logging industry.

The tree was the subject of The Golden Spruce, a very popular 2005 book by John Valliant and the 2015 documentary Hadwin’s Judgement, which my friend Yves Ma helped produce. It’s a fabulous story and I recommend either reading the book or watching the film before coming to Haida Gwaii.

While the Golden Spruce is long gone, rotting back into the forest, the Golden Spruce Trail is still a nice short hike. The trail is located just outside Port Clements and leads through a beautiful old-growth forest to the banks of the Yakoun River. Beautifully carved interpretive signs provide info on Haida culture.

Walking past old-growth trees on the Golden Spruce Trail near Port Clements, BC
Walking past old-growth trees on the Golden Spruce Trail near Port Clements

Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary

If you visit in spring or fall, the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary near Masset is a must-see. It protects an intertidal wetland on the edge of town that is an important stop for migrating birds. There is also a Nature Centre where friendly volunteers can answer your questions.

Looking through the window at the Delkatla Nature Centre
Looking through the window at the Delkatla Nature Centre

On my June visit most of the migrating birds had already left, but we were able to watch some huge sandhill cranes and their babies feeding. There are walking trails around the sanctuary as well as several viewing platforms.

Other Hikes on Haida Gwaii

Even though I spent 10 days on Haida Gwaii, I still missed out on some good hikes. Here are a few trails that are on my list for my next visit:

Anvil Trail: A short, flat, and reportedly muddy loop hike through beautiful old-growth forest near Tlell.

Sleeping Beauty/Tarundl Trail: A challenging trail near Daajing Giids that leads to the top of 1000m-tall Mount Raymond.

Mount Moresby: At 1,164, Mount Moresby is the tallest mountain on Moresby Island. It’s an all-day hike to the summit from logging roads south of Sandspit.

Kayaking

Haida Gwaii is famous for its kayaking. Experienced kayakers can launch boats and set out on an independent expedition, but most paddlers opt to go with a guiding company.

Kayaking in calm water in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
I was able to kayak from the lodge I stayed at one evening on the motorboat tour I took in Gwaii Hanaas National Park

Most kayak tours paddle a portion of the coastline in Gwaii Hanaas National Park – the park is too big to cover on a single trip!

If I go back to Haida Gwaii, a multi-day kayak tour is at the top of my list. I’ll probably go with Butterfly Tours. They are the sister company of At the Water’s Edge Adventures. I had a great tour with them in the Johnstone Strait on Vancouver Island. Green Coast Kayaking is another local company that gets great reviews.

Camping

Haida Gwaii is a popular spot for camping. Many travellers bring their RVs or tents and spend a week or more camping around the islands. There are quite a few campgrounds to choose from and none of them require reservations. Here’s a run-down of the best places to camp:

Agate Beach: Located near the northern tip of Haida Gwaii in Naikoon Provincial Park, most of the sites are beachfront and have incredible views. We loved our stay here.

Camping at Agate Beach in Naikoon Provincial Park
Our campsite at Agate Beach. I took this photo from the beach – it’s right next to the site!

Misty Meadows: Also in Naikoon Park, this campground is close to Tlell and the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail. It’s also a short walk to the beach. We camped here after hiking to the wreck.

Camping at Misty Meadows in Naikoon Provincial Park
Our campsite at Misty Meadows Campground

Haydn Turner Park: Find this town-operated campground just outside Daajing Giids on the west side of town. The campsites are all in the forest, but it’s a short walk to the beach.

Moresby Camp: Accessed via gravel roads from Sandspit, this is the launch point for tours into Gwaii Haanas National Park. Run by Sites and Trails BC, the campground has incredible views of Cumshewa Inlet.

View of Moresby Camp from the water
The view of Moresby Camp from the water.

Other Campgrounds: There are several rustic campgrounds with few facilities accessed via gravel roads. Popular options include Kagan Bay near Daajing Giids, Mosquito Lake on Moresby Island, and Gray Bay on Moresby Island.

Fishing

Haida Gwaii is famous for its sport fishing. You can catch lingcod, halibut, and rockfish from mid-March to November. Salmon season is May to September for Chinook (King), Coho, Chum, Sockeye, and Pink Salmon.

You can book day-charters to go fishing in Haida Gwaii, but all-inclusive fishing lodges are also popular. I didn’t go fishing in Haida Gwaii, so I can’t recommend any particular company.

How to Get to Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii is a remote place. It’s 100 km off the northern coast of British Columbia. The only way to get there is to fly or take a ferry. I’ve got details on both below.

Ferries to Haida Gwaii

BC Ferries runs ferries from Prince Rupert on the mainland to Skidegate Landing on Haida Gwaii. The sailing takes about 7 hours. Be sure to make reservations well in advance if you are travelling with a vehicle because it sells out.

You can drive your car or RV onto the ferry or walk on. As of 2023, standard vehicles (under 20ft/6.1m) cost $154.10 and adults cost $43.45. Fares are slightly cheaper in the winter.

In the summer, there are six sailings a week. Most are daytime sailings, but there is one overnight sailing. In the fall, winter, and spring, there are three sailings a week, split between daytime and overnight sailings.

Most sailings are on the Northern Adventure. There is a cafeteria on board and you can book a cabin, which makes sleeping on overnight sailings much easier.

The view out the window from the ferry to Haida Gwaii
Looking out the window from the ferry to Haida Gwaii

The crossing between Haida Gwaii and Prince Rupert goes through the Hecate Strait, which is very shallow. That means that rough water is common. The ferry has active fin stabilizers to make the voyage more comfortable. However, I recommend bringing seasickness medication just in case.

I took the ferry to and from Haida Gwaii and experienced sunny skies with calm seas. However, some of the people I met on my Gwaii Hanaas tour had taken the ferry a few days earlier and reported that many passengers were seasick.

A man looks through binoculars on the ferry to Haida Gwaii
Enjoying the view from the ferry to Haida Gwaii

Getting to Prince Rupert

The city of Prince Rupert is the departure point for ferries to and from Haida Gwaii. The ferry terminal is 10 minutes outside of town.

Psst! I recommend spending a few days in Prince Rupert – there are so many things to do!

Prince Rupert is about 17 hours by car from Vancouver. It’s a beautiful drive through the interior of British Columbia on well-maintained highways.

However, I recommend taking the Inside Passage ferry, which is even more scenic. The Inside Passage ferry leaves from Port Hardy on northern Vancouver Island and sails up the coast to Prince Rupert. The voyage takes about 16 hours and is renowned for its beauty. Whale sightings are common – we saw lots on our trip!

A rainbow seen from the rear deck of the Inside Passage ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert
A rainbow from the rear deck of the Inside Passage ferry

You can also fly to Prince Rupert from Vancouver, but it’s more efficient to fly directly to Haida Gwaii instead of taking the ferry to Haida Gwaii.

Flying to Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii has two airports: one at Sandspit on Moresby Island and one at Masset on the northern part of Graham Island.

Air Canada offers daily flights from the main terminal Vancouver International Airport to Sandspit. Pacific Coastal Airlines also offers daily flights from the south terminal of Vancouver Internal Airport to Masset. (The south terminal is a bus ride away from the main terminal.) Flights with both airlines cost $250-400 each way.

Inland Air Charters offers flights from Prince Rupert to Masset three days a week for about $320 each way. However, it only makes sense to take this flight if you plan to spend time in Prince Rupert. Otherwise, it’s easiest to fly from Vancouver.

Getting Around on Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii is not very big – there are only about 140 kilometres of paved highways and one ferry between the two main islands. With no public transportation on the islands, it’s easiest to drive yourself. Below I’ve got more info about rental cars, shuttle buses, taxis, and ferries.

Driving on Haida Gwaii

Driving is by far the easiest way to get around on Haida Gwaii. You can bring your own car on the ferry or rent one once you arrive.

It’s hard to get lost on Haida Gwaii since there are only 140 kilometres of paved highway and only one traffic light. Everything is well signed. The roads along the coast can be a little twisty, but they are easy to drive. Most roads are also fairly smooth.

There are also lots of logging roads and gravel roads on Haida Gwaii. Only two of the major attractions are on gravel roads: Tow Hill and the Golden Spruce Trail. These roads are well-graded for regular vehicle traffic.

If you plan to drive on other logging roads, drive with your lights on and go slow around corners. If you see a logging truck in front of you or behind you, pull over ASAP and let it pass – they have the right of way since they can’t brake suddenly. As well, read your rental agreement careful as many companies don’t allow logging road travel.

With poor cell coverage on most of the islands, you will need a map if you plan to venture off the paved roads. I recommend using the Gaia GPS app with the Backroads Mapbook layer. It shows all logging roads.

Renting a Car

There are several car rental companies on Haida Gwaii in Sandspit, Daajing Giids, Skidegate, and Masset.

Besides Budget Car Rental, all of the other rental companies are small local businesses. Some have online booking, but phone is best for most companies. And book in advance as they run out of cars in summer.

Most rental companies are located at the airport or offer a shuttle from the airport or ferry terminal to their office.

Keep in mind that you can’t take rental vehicles on gravel roads, as it will void your rental agreement. Some rental car companies have penalties (about $600) for driving off paved roads.

Rental car companies on Haida Gwaii include Budget (Sandspit and Daajing Giids), Island Auto Rentals – 250.559.4118 (Daajing Giids), Gwaii Adventure Campers (Daajing Giids), Gwaii Taxi and Tours (Skidegate), Masset Car and Truck Rentals (Masset), and Rustic Car Rentals – 250.626.3756 (Masset).

Taxis and Shuttle Buses

While Haida Gwaii has no public transportation, there are several local companies providing taxi and shuttle bus services. You can also book tours that include transportation between ferries, airports, hotels, and attractions.

Since Haida Gwaii is such a small place, the status of local operators changes often. It’s best to call and ask ahead of your trip to find out if shuttles or taxis will be available.

Local taxi and shuttle companies include Gwaii Taxi and Tours, Mile Zero Taxi, and Eagle Transit.

Ferries

There are two main islands in Haida Gwaii. Graham Island in the north is home to most of Haida Gwaii’s towns. Moresby Island in the south is where you will find Sandspit, but otherwise it is mostly undeveloped.

The only way between the two islands is via BC Ferries. The ferry goes between Skidegate Landing on Graham Island and Alliford Bay on Moresby Island. Alliford Bay is a 15-minute drive from Sandspit.

The ferry runs fairly often from early morning to late evening. Check the schedule carefully to make sure you don’t miss the last ferry of the day! The ferry does get behind schedule, but in that case, it will run on-demand, shuttling back and forth until the backlog is cleared.

The sailing takes 20 minutes and is on the Kwuna, which is an open-decked ferry that holds up to 16 vehicles. There is a small lounge for walk-on passengers, but most people stay in their cars.

You cannot reserve the ferry – it is first-come, first-served. As of 2023, standard vehicles (under 20 ft./6.1 m) are $22.20 and passengers are $9.55 each. Fares are return so you only have to pay when leaving Graham Island – you don’t have to pay if you are leaving from Alliford Bay.

The Kwuna Ferry runs between Graham Island and Moresby Island in Haida Gwaii
Taking the Kwuna ferry from Skidegate Landing on Graham Island to Alliford Bay on Moresby Island

Best Hotels and B&Bs in Haida Gwaii

The first thing to know about booking a hotel or other accommodation in Haida Gwaii is that there aren’t very many places to stay. The second thing to know is that many of them don’t have a big online presence so be prepared to book by phone.

Below I’ve got picks for where to stay in various spots around the archipelago.

Where to Stay in Sandspit

Seaport B&B: We stayed at this basic B&B before our Gwaii Hanaas tour. It has a fun communal atmosphere and a great view of the beach from the front deck. Check rates.

Sunset view from the patio of the Seaport B&B in Sandspit, BC
Sunset view from the patio of the Seaport B&B

Hekate’s Retreat: A guesthouse nestled between an orchard and the gold course, a short walk from the beach. Check rates.

Where to Stay in Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte)

Premier Creek Lodging: This is the oldest hotel in Haida Gwaii and a favourite for returning guests. It has a gorgeous garden alongside a creek. Check rates.

Spruce Point Lodge: The only waterfront hotel in Daajing Giids. It has motel-style rooms with breakfast delivered each morning. Check rates.

Where to Stay in Skidegate

Jag’s Coffee Shop & Guest Rooms: We loved our stay here! (We actually stayed twice – one night at the beginning of our trip and another night at the end.) It’s right next to the best coffee shop and bakery on the islands. The rooms are modern and clean. I think it’s the best non-luxury place to stay in Haida Gwaii. Check rates.

A room at Jags Coffee House and Rooms in Skidegate, BC
Our room at Jag’s

Where to Stay in Tlell

Haida House at Tllaal: This luxury resort is run by the Haida Nation and is the nicest place to stay in Haida Gwaii. You also have the option of booking an all-inclusive package that includes tours. Check rates.

Haida Gwaii Glamping Co.: Camp without roughing it at these adorable glamping tents which include bathrooms and decks. They are located right on the beach. Check rates.

Where to Stay in Port Clements

The Blue House: This funky two-bedroom vacation rental is right on the ocean and has great views from both the deck and the bedroom. The decor is also pretty fun. Check rates.

Where to Stay in Masset

Gwaii Naay Island House: Owned by the Haida Nation, this guest house is within walking distance of everything in Masset. It has a shared kitchen if you want to prepare your own meals. Check rates.

All the Beach You Can Eat: Fun off-the-grid cabins on North Beach in between Masset and Naikoon Provincial Park. Each cabin was hand-made out of custom-milled driftwood. Check rates.

Best Restaurants in Haida Gwaii

Just like with hotels, there aren’t that many restaurants in Haida Gwaii. As well, many are open only a few days a week. To avoid disappointment, call ahead to confirm hours and make a reservation.

There may be some days when there are no restaurants open in a town. Make sure you visit the grocery store and stock up on snacks or ready-to-eat foods just in case.

Sandspit

The Clubhouse at Hekate’s Retreat: They have a great patio overlooking the golf course. My friends said they had a great dinner here and the burgers were good. Note: This is often the only place open for dinner in Sandspit.

Daajing Giids (Queen Charlotte City)

The Village Hearth: I loved my dinner at this small restaurant. They have a small and eclectic menu that seems to change often and draws from many different cuisines. I had Korean-style beef shortribs that were amazing. They also have great cocktail options. Ask for a patio table to enjoy the view.

Sign on a buoy at The Village Hearth Cafe in Daajing Giids, BC
The cute sign at the entrance at The Village Hearth

Blacktail: The food here was really well executed and much higher end than I expected to find in Haida Gwaii. I had some incredible mushroom pasta and my husband loved the pork loin. Order their sourdough focaccia to start – sooo good.

A plate of pork loin and potatoes from Blacktail Restaurant in Daajing Giids, BC
Dinner at Blacktail

Gather: We didn’t call early enough to get a table at Gather, but we heard so many good things about it from locals and other travellers. They have an Italian-influenced menu that looks really tasty.

Skidegate

Jag’s Coffee: We loved Jag’s so much that we ate there three times! They have the best coffee on Haida Gwaii along with great baked goods. I also loved their breakfast and sandwiches. My fave was the pastrami bagel.

Pastrami bagel sandwich at Jag's Coffee in Skidegate, BC
The incredible pastrami bagel sandwich at Jag’s

Keenawaii’s Kitchen: I wish we had booked a table in advance because I’m sad we didn’t get to eat there. Chef Roberta Olson makes traditional Haida meals using local, wild-harvested ingredients. It sounds amazing!

Tlell

Haida House at Tllall: Make a reservation in advance to eat at this high-end restaurant. We didn’t eat here, but other travellers told us that the seafood was delicious.

Port Clements

The Axe & Anchor Pub: This is a great pub with an incredible patio. The food was pretty standard for pub food, but well executed and the service was really friendly. I had a great quesadilla and my friends said the burgers were great.

Quesadilla at the Axe and Anchor Pub in Port Clements, BC
Delicious quesadilla at The Axe and Anchor Pub in Port Clements

Masset

The 626: Located right across from the Coop grocery store, this little restaurant is a small building, food truck, and deck cobbled together. But it’s worth a visit for the best fish and chips in Haida Gwaii. They also have fish tacos, pizza, and delectably thick milkshakes. (Their name comes from the fact that most phone numbers in Masset start with “626”.)

The 626 Fish and Chips in Masset, BC
The food truck and deck at The 626 Fish and Chips in Masset

Tips for Visiting Haida Gwaii

Visiting Haida Gwaii was the trip of a lifetime for me, and that’s the case for a lot of people. I did a lot of research before I went, but there were still a few surprises. Here are my top tips for visiting Haida Gwaii:

  • Make ferry, flight, tours, restaurant and accommodation reservations well in advance. There is limited availability and things get booked up.
  • If you want to wing it a little, plan to camp. There is lots of camping available, you don’t need to make reservations, and it doesn’t seem to fill up.
  • Check restaurant and grocery store opening hours carefully. Most places are only open for a few hours each day and some are only open a few days a week. Call businesses to confirm because business hours listed on Google often aren’t correct.
  • Pack warm and waterproof clothing. Haida Gwaii’s climate is wet and a little chilly, even in summer.
  • Stop into the visitor centres at Daajing Giids, Masset, or Sandspit. They can help you plan your trip and answer questions. You can also pick up a copy of This is Haida Gwaii, the annual tourist brochure. It has great maps and a helpful section on the monumental poles you can see around the islands, including an explanation of the carvings on each one.
  • Learn a bit about Haida culture before you arrive to be respectful. There is a good suggested reading list and other info on the Take the Haida Gwaii pledge website. Listen carefully when Haida people speak – we are visitors on their land.
  • Ask before taking pictures of Haida poles, art, and buildings, especially when taking pictures of people. Photos are allowed in most places, but it’s polite to ask first.
  • Many visitors don’t realize that many monumental poles (commonly called totem poles) are actually memorial poles, raised to mark someone’s death. Give these poles the same respect you would give a graveyard or other memorial.
  • Remember to say haw’aa (thank-you in Haida) to everyone you meet.
A woman walks in front of a log covered in salal on the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail in Haida Gwaii
Hiking the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail

So that’s everything you need to know to plan a trip to Haida Gwaii. I hope you enjoy your trip as much as I loved mine. I just need to figure out when I can go back!

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