Canadian National Parks Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/canadian-national-parks/ Sharing advice, info and inspiration about my happy place: the Great Outdoors. Mon, 09 Feb 2026 23:41:43 +0000 en-CA hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3 https://happiestoutdoors.ca/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/cropped-favicon@3x-32x32.png Canadian National Parks Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/tag/canadian-national-parks/ 32 32 Grasslands National Park Travel Guide https://dawnoutdoors.com/grasslands-national-park/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/grasslands-national-park/#respond Thu, 05 Feb 2026 00:23:04 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=25413 When I told people I was planning a trip to Saskatchewan, some people asked me why. My answer was simple: to visit Grasslands National Park. I’m on a mission to visit all of Canada’s National Parks and Reserves (so far, I’m at 19 of 48), but I also wanted to visit because I had heard …

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When I told people I was planning a trip to Saskatchewan, some people asked me why. My answer was simple: to visit Grasslands National Park. I’m on a mission to visit all of Canada’s National Parks and Reserves (so far, I’m at 19 of 48), but I also wanted to visit because I had heard Grasslands is gorgeous.

It did not disappoint! Grasslands National Park a quiet park in a remote part of southern Saskatchewan, which is why I loved it so much! With so few visitors, it was easy to get swallowed up in the wide open spaces.

The park is home to rolling grasslands (mostly in the West Block) and rugged badlands (mostly in the East Block). I found both gorgeous, especially in the soft light of sunset. Other highlights included hiking (of course), wildlife watching, looking for fossils, and learning about the unique native grassland ecosystem that has almost disappeared from the prairies.

If you’re planning a visit, I’ve put together a big Grasslands National Park travel guide for you. It includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Thanks so much to Parks Canada for hosting me in Grasslands National Park. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Map of Grasslands National Park

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Google Map of Grasslands National Park for you. It includes every single place I mention in this post.

Google Map of Grasslands National Park
Map of Grasslands National Park. Zoom in and explore the map.

Best Things to Do in Grasslands National Park

Grasslands National Park is separated into two parts: the West Block and the East Block. It takes about 2 hours to drive between the two blocks.

I’ve organized my list of the best things to do in Grasslands National Park into West Block and East Block sections below to make it easier for you to plan your trip. I’ve also got suggestions for things to do anywhere in the park at the bottom!

Things to do in the West Block

Town of Val Marie

The tiny town of Val Marie, Saskatchewan, is located at the entrance to the West Block of Grasslands National Park. It has a population of just 120 residents today, but it used to be home to over 450 people, so it feels a bit bigger.

It’s worth wandering through its wide streets and checking out the historic grain elevator, built in 1927. You should also visit Prairie Wind and Silver Sage. It’s a cute gift shop and art gallery run by Friends of Grasslands National Park.

The Grasslands National Park Visitor Centre is also in Val Marie. It’s the best place to start your journey into the park. They have a few small exhibits about the park. But the main reason I recommend stopping is ask about current conditions and to pick up maps. They also have some great pamphlets that will help you ID flowers and other plants.

Historic Grain Elevator in Val Marie, Saskatchewan
The historic grain elevator in Val Marie
Exhibits in the Grasslands National Park Visitor Centre
Exhibits in the Grasslands National Park Visitor Centre in Val Marie

Ecotour Scenic Drive

Driving the Ecotour Scenic Drive is the number one must-do thing to do in Grasslands National Park. It’s a 20 km drive (about 80 km round trip from Val Marie) and includes 7 stops. Allow at least two hours… but probably a lot longer if you want to walk around and take photos at each stop.

Here’s a brief rundown on each stop:

Ecotour Gateway

  • A pull-off with a signboard welcoming you to Grasslands National Park and the official entrance to the park.

Top Dogtown

  • Take an easy and flat 750 m loop trail through a prairie dog colony.
  • Bring binoculars or a camera with a zoom lens for a closer look – the prairie dogs hide in their burrows if you get too close. They are adorable!
  • If you are going to spend an extended amount of time at just one stop, make it this one.

The Tabletop

  • A short walk through the grass to some info boards where you can learn about native prairie grasses and the preservation of endangered grasslands ecoystems.

The Rubbing Stone

  • Another short walk through the grass to two Indigenous cultural sites:
  • The first is a bison rubbing stone, left over from the time when bison roamed the area by the millions. They used rocks like this to scratch themselves.
  • There is also a tipi ring here, which is a ring of stones on the ground that marks the former location of a First Nations tipi.
  • This is my pick for the best views on the Ecotour since it’s on a bluff overlooking the Frenchman Valley.

Frenchman River Valley

  • View crumbling ranch corrals, left over from the days before this was a park.
  • Take a short walk along grassy trails to visit info boards about how the ecosystem in the valley bottom is different than the plateau above.

The Ranch

  • This stop has a few historic ranch buildings from the pre-National Park era.
  • It’s also the starting point for the Larson Trail, an easy 1.5 km loop hike that has views of the Frenchman River.

Dogtown

  • Another prairie dog colony. This one is even bigger – it stretches out on both sides of the road.
  • I recommend pulling over and looking out your windows with binoculars.
A prairie dog emerging from its burrow on the Top Dogtown Trail in Grasslands National Park
One of the prairie dogs at Top Dogtown.
Driving the gravel Eco Tour Scenic Drive in Grasslands National Park
Driving the Ecotour
Crumbling ranch buildings in Grasslands National Park
Crumbling ranch buildings at The Ranch

Eagle Butte and 70 Mile Butte Trail

This was the first hike I did in Grasslands, and it was a fantastic introduction to the park. It’s two interconnected loops that go up and around Eagle Butte and 70 Mile Butte. If you don’t have much time, you could just do Eagle Butte, but I thought the views were way better from 70 Mile Butte.

We spotted lots of wildflowers along the trail, especially in the valley bottoms. From the top of the butte, there were great views of the nearby hills as well as the flatter Grasslands of the West Block.

This trail starts from a park entrance that is a few miles south of Val Marie along Highway 4. If you do both buttes, it’s a 5 km loop with 260 m of elevation gain and takes 1.5 to 2 hours. It is rated moderate to challenging. It can be really windy on top of the buttes, so hang on to your hats!

View of the farmland just outside the park from 70 Mile Butte in Grasslands National Park
View of the farmland just outside the park from 70 Mile Butte
Wildflowers on the 70 Mile Butte Trail
These gorgeous flowers are pingue rubberweed, which is part of the sunflower family.

Broken Hills Trail

The Broken Hills Trail was the longest hike I did in Grasslands National Park. It’s a lollipop loop through grassy hills in the middle of the West Block. It starts near Frenchman Valley campground at the Belza Day Use Area. The first part follows an old vehicle track, but then it veers off on a narrow hiking trail that is rockier and climbs a few small hills.

This is a great hike if you want to experience prairie grasslands away from park roads. We didn’t see a single person on the entire hike. However, we did see lots of prairie dogs, a deer, lots of birds, and a burrowing owl!

The Broken Hills Trail is an 11 km loop with about 300 m of elevation gain. Plan to spend 3.5 to 4.5 hours on the hike. It is rated challenging. The entire hike has no shade, so bring lots of water and sun protection. On the day I hiked it, the temperature soared into the low 30s, which was unexpected for late May, and I definitely felt the sun exposure despite covering up and packing lots of water.

A woman walks past a trail marker in the grass on the Broken Hills Trail in Grasslands National Park
The Broken Hills Trail heads through the grasslands.
Parks Canada red chairs on the Broken Hills Trail
We took a break at the Parks Canada red chairs on top of a hill along the Broken Hills Trail

Wildlife Watching

If you want to see wildlife, the West Block is the best place to do it. We spotted deer darting through the underbrush near the Frenchman River and pronghorn hopping through fields just outside the park. You can also spot rattlesnakes, badgers, and coyotes, but we didn’t see any.

And thanks to our binoculars, we spotted about a dozen bison grazing on the hills around the Frenchman Valley. Parks Canada reintroduced bison to the park in 2005. They are an important keystone species for grasslands ecosystems since their heavy hooves till the soil as they walk, allowing grasses, wildflowers, and other plants to thrive.

Today, there are 400 to 500 bison in the park, kept contained inside a huge bison fence that encircles most of the West Block of Grasslands National Park.

They mostly hang out in the remote northeast corner of their enclosure, so apparently the best way to see lots of bison is to hike the Timbergulch Trail, a challenging 15 km loop that takes 5 to 6 hours. I didn’t have time to hike it, but it’s on my list for my next trip.

You can also see thousands of prairie dogs in the West Block. There are huge prairie dog colonies along the Ecotour Scenic Drive and on some of the hiking trails. I could spend hours watching these adorable little guys.

One of the other reasons I spent so much time watching the prairie dogs was to try to spot a burrowing owl. Burrowing owls are tiny and fat with long legs, giving them a somewhat comical appearance. They live in prairie dog and gopher burrow so prairie dog colonies are a great place to spot them. I was lucky to spot one at a small prairie dog colony on the Broken Hills Trail.

Bison in Grasslands National Park
The closest we got to a bison. It was just wandering around the hills across from the campground.

Other Things to do in the West Block

Even though I spent two days in the West Block, I didn’t have time to do everything. Here are a few more things I’d like to do on a return trip:

  • Two Trees Trail and Riverwalk Trail: Two short and easy loop trails on the park’s western edge that explore the Frenchman River Valley.
  • Timbergulch Trail: A rugged and challenging 15 km loop trail that meanders through coulee bottoms and has the best chance of spotting bison.
  • Backcountry Loop Road: A rough dirt road through the Eastern part of the West Block that leads to some remote scenery.

Things to do in the East Block

Badlands Parkway

Just like the Ecotour Scenic Drive is the best thing to do in the West Block, Badlands Scenic Parkway is the best thing to do in the East Block of Grasslands National Park.

The 11-km-long road has six stops. Plan to spend 1.5 to 2 hours exploring the Parkway. Unlike most of the park, the Badlands Parkways is paved. However, it is a single-lane road, so you’ll need to watch for oncoming traffic and use the pull-outs. It also has a low speed limit, which is fine since you’ll want to admire the scenery.

Here’s a brief overview of each of the stops:

Gateway to the Grasslands

  • A great viewpoint over the Rock Creek Valley and campground. It has a pair of Parks Canada red chairs.

Crackerjack

  • One of the first views of the badlands.
  • The info board here explains the history of dinosaur fossil hunting in this area.

Zahursky Point

  • A viewpoint over the badlands with an info board about the Zahursky family, who homesteaded here over 100 years ago.
  • There are a pair of Parks Canada red chairs here too.

Kapesiwin

  • Kapesiwin means campsite in the Cree language. The info board here teaches you about the history of Indigenous people in this area.

Mauvais Terres

  • A short trail leads to the top of a bluff with a great view of the badlands.

Ta Sunka Watogla

  • The best viewpoint of the badlands. It has a pair of Parks Canada red chairs and is especially gorgeous at sunset.
  • The info board here tells the story of the Lakota who sought sanctuary in this area after the Battle of Little Bighorn.
  • You can follow a faint trail down the hill into the badlands. Walking off-trail is allowed in Grasslands National Park – for decades, bison hooves tilled the land here, so human footsteps are encouraged.
Parks Canada red chairs on the Badlands Parkway
Parks Canada red chairs at the Gateway to the Grasslands viewpoint on the Badlands Parkway
View of the Badlands from Zahursky Point
The great view of the Badlands from Zahursky Point
Red chairs at Ta Sunka Watogla viewpoint on the Badlands Parkway in Grasslands National Park
My favourite view of the badlands at Ta Sunka Watogla

Rock Creek Trail

This easy 1 km loop trail goes up and over a small hill near the campground. It has good views of the Rock Creek Valley. There is also a tipi near the trailhead, which is great for photo ops.

Wide bridge at the start of the Rock Creek Trail in the East Block
The wide bridge at the start of the Rock Creek Trail
Looking out through the door of a tipi at Rock Creek in Grasslands National Park
Looking back towards the Rock Creek campground through the tipi door

Valley of 1000 Devils

This 10 km round-trip hike is the centerpiece hike in the East Block and takes three to four hours. It goes through grassy prairie before winding through the badlands.

I was really looking forward to this hike, but unfortunately, there was a thunderstorm that afternoon, so we had to skip it. I’d love to go back and hike it, since it looks amazing.

Guided Fossil Hike: 70 Million Years in 60 Minutes

One of the best things I did in the East Block was a guided fossil hike with a Park Ranger called 70 Million Years in 60 Minutes. The hike runs on Tuesday and Thursday mornings and costs $16.50 per person. You can register at the East Block visitor centre.

On the hour-long guided hike, we followed a Park Ranger on an off-trail route down into the badlands. She taught us about the KPg boundary, which is a thin geologic layer that marks the dinosaur extinction.

We also got to see lots of dinosaur fossils and learn about the sometimes tawdry history of fossil hunting in this region – many of the dinosaur skeletons in museums around the world came from Grasslands National Park!

A park ranger leads a fossil hike in Grasslands National Park
A park ranger shows us a fossil

Things to Do Anywhere in Grasslands National Park

Enjoy the Sunset

Saskatchewan sunsets are spectacular, and they are even more special amongst the native prairie landscapes of Grasslands National Park. You can see the sunset anywhere that faces west in the park, but here are two spots I recommend:

Frenchman Valley Campground/Belza Day Use Area (West Block)

A trail runs between the Frenchman Valley Campground and the Belza Day Use Area. If you take a spur trail from the main trail, you’ll go up onto a small ridge that has a spectacular view of the Frenchman River Valley. There is a pair of Parks Canada red chairs here too, so it’s a great photo op.

We headed up here for sunset on both of the nights we spent in the West Block. The pinks and purples of the sunset were gorgeous. But we also spotted a flock of pelicans migrating overhead and deer bounding through thickets near the river.

Badlands Parkway (East Block)

All of the stops along the Badlands Parkway are great sunset spots since they face west. If you’re short on time, the Gateway to Grasslands Viewpoint is the closest. (It’s also an easy 1.5 km hike from the campground.) It has a pair of Parks Canada red chairs.

However, I think it’s worth driving to the end of the Parkway to get the best view from Ta Sunka Watogla viewpoint. It looks out over the badlands. The buttes are spectacular in the soft light of sunset. There are Parks Canada red chairs here too!

A woman walking towards Parks Canada red chairs at sunset in Grasslands National Park
Walking towards the Parks Canada red chairs near Frenchman Valley Campground at sunset
View of the badlands in Grasslands National Park at sunset
View of the badlands at sunset from Ta Sunka Watogla viewpoint at the end of the Badlands Parkway

Stargazing

Grasslands National Park has been a recognized National Dark Sky Preserve since 2009, and often has clear weather during summer evenings, so it is a great place to go stargazing.

You can stargaze anywhere in the park. The easiest way to stargaze is to camp. I spent three nights camping in Grasslands and spent some time stargazing each evening after it got dark. I also got to do some unplanned stargazing on a few middle-of-the-night trips to the outhouse!

If you plan to stargaze, minimize your use of lights and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. Park your car at a pullout or day use area, set up a lawn chair, then settle in to watch the stars. Binoculars or a telescope are also a great idea.

I’m not a good astro photographer (and I didn’t have a tripod with me), so unfortunately I don’t have any good night photos to share.

The moon over Frenchman Valley Campground
The moon at dusk at Frenchman Valley Campground

Bird Watching

I got into bird watching a little bit during the pandemic. But then I went to Grasslands National Park with a friend who is even more into bird watching. We ended up taking turns driving so the other person could spot birds and then yell about finding a place to pull over so we could look at the birds through our binoculars!

Grasslands has great birdwatching opportunities. My favourite bird by far was the burrowing owl. It’s a squat little owl with a slightly derpy face that lives in prairie dog colonies. We heard about an owl nest in the East Block and drove over from the campground to watch it on several occasions.

We also spent lots of time watching songbirds and water birds near Frenchman River and Rock Creek. Another favourite were the grouse, partridge, and pheasant in the grasses beside the road. We hoped to spot the endangered Greater Sage grouse, but didn’t have any luck. (There are only about 50 of them left in the park so that wasn’t surprising.)

Be sure to look up too! We saw hawks soaring on thermals and even a flock of pelicans cruising past.

I’m not a great bird photographer, so unfortunately I don’t have any awesome close-up photos of birds to share.

A woman sticks her head out of the sunroof of a Subaru to watch for birds with binoculars
Using our sunroof to get up higher for better bird spotting
A burrowing owl sitting on a post in Grasslands National Park
A burrowing owl near the entrance to the East Block
Pelicans at sunset near Frenchman Valley Campground
A flock of pelicans flying past at sunset.

Park Ranger Fireside Chats

If you want to learn more about the plants, animals, and geology in the park, head to a Park Ranger-led Fireside Chat. They are held on Friday evenings in both the Frenchman River and Rock Creek campgrounds.

At the one we attended, the ranger had free marshmallows to roast and shared all kinds of fun facts about prairie plants, buffalo, snakes, and so much more. I learned at ton!

Camping in Grasslands National Park

There are two campgrounds in Grasslands National Park, one in each block. If you can swing it, I highly recommend camping in the park. You’ll get to enjoy sunsets, sunrises, stargazing, and way more wildlife viewing. You also won’t have to commute into the park, which can take up to an hour!

The campsites all accommodate tents or RVs. If you have a big trailer, there are also a few pull-through spots at each campground. You can also book a spot in one of their glamping-style oTENTik tents.

Keep in mind that both campgrounds are 100% reserveable. Reservations open in late January or early February each year. Book in advance to avoid disappointment.

Both campgrounds can be very windy. Bring lots of rope and pegs to secure tents and awnings. There is also no shade and the sun can be relentless. We cooked in the day use/kitchen shelters a few times to avoid the wind and sun.

An orange tent next to a SUV at the Frenchman Valley Campground in Saskatchewan
A campsite at the Frenchman Valley Campground.

Frenchman Valley Campground (West Block)

I spent two nights at the Frenchman Valley Campground. It’s located in the middle of the West Block near the end of the Ecotour Scenic Drive.

Since this part of the park has free-roaming bison, the campground has a fence around it to keep the bison out. On the day we arrived, a bison hung out on the hill across from the campground for a few hours!

Just behind the campground is a small ridge that has great views of the Frenchman River Valley. We spent lots of time up there watching birds, bison, and deer and admiring the incredible sunset!

The campground has all the basics: drinking water taps, garbage cans, firepits, and pit toilets. There are 20 campsites and 4 oTENTik glamping tents you can rent. (More on those below.) All of the campsites and oTENTiks have power but no water.

Notably, the campground doesn’t have showers. The closest showers are at the Val Marie Campground – it’s $5 for non-registered guests. We toughed it out with wet wipes and then showered after we left the area, so I don’t have a review of the showers.

The Frenchman Valley Campground does have a great day-use shelter called the Coulee Centre. It’s a great place to get out of the sun and wind. There are picnic tables both inside and outside the building. It also has wifi, although it’s not very strong.

Looking down to the Frenchman Valley Campground from a nearby ridge.
Looking down to the Frenchman Valley Campground from a nearby ridge. You can see the bison fence around the campground.

Rock Creek Campground (East Block)

The Rock Creek Campground is located near the entrance to the East Block of Grasslands National Park and the start of Badlands Parkway. It’s set into a small hill above Rock Creek.

There are 24 campsites and 8 oTENTiks, and they all have power but not water. Like the Frenchman Valley Campground, Rock Creek also has drinking water taps, garbage cans, firepits, and pit toilets. Rock Creek also does not have showers, and I don’t have any recommendations on the closest place to shower – sorry!

The kitchen shelter at Rock Creek is small and basic, with just a few tables and not much natural light. The outdoor tables do have a good view of Rock Creek, though.

Looking down to the Rock Creek Campground
Looking down to the Rock Creek Campground from the Badlands Parkway

Camping in oTENTiks in Grasslands National Park

Both campgrounds have oTENTik glamping-style tents you can rent. They are also 100% reservable and reservations open at the same as camping reservations, usually in late January or early February.

I stayed in an oTENTik at both Frenchman Valley and Rock Creek campgrounds. It was nice not to have to worry about setting up a tent and to have an indoor place to hang out, especially when it was windy.

The oTENTiks include mattresses for up to 6 people, but you have to supply your own sleeping bags/bedding. You aren’t allowed to cook inside, but there is a picnic table, BBQ, and fire pit outside. We also brought a camping stove and used it on the picnic table.

The oTENTiks do have power, which was nice for charging our phones. They have a simple overhead light and come with a small heater, although we didn’t need it.

There is no plumbing – you’ll have to collect water from the campground taps and use the pit toilets.

View of an oTENTik glamping tent at dusk in Grasslands National Park
Our oTENTik at Rock Creek Campground
The inside of an oTENTik in Grasslands National Park
Looking through the front door of our oTENTik.
Exterior of an oTENTik at Frenchman Valley Campground
The outside of our oTENTik at Frenchman Valley Campground.

Hotels Near Grasslands National Park

As I said above, I really recommend camping in Grasslands National Park. And since you can stay in glamping-style oTENTik, it’s more accessible than most types of camping. However, I know camping isn’t for everyone, so I’ve got a list of hotels near the park.

When booking a hotel, keep in mind that the West and East Blocks of the Park are about 2 hours apart. Note that there is no accommodation inside the park – you’ll have to stay outside the park boundary. As well, there really aren’t that many hotels in this area. I’ve listed all the nearby ones below.

The Convent Inn: A basic B&B in the town of Val Marie near the entrance to the West Block, housed in an old brick convent.

The Sanctuary Inn: Vacation rental suites in the town of Val Marie near the entrance to the West Block inside an old church.

The Crossing at Grasslands: Remote vacation suites on a rural property a few minutes south of Val Marie near the entrance to the West Block.

Rockglen Motel: Basic motel in the town of Rockglen, 45 minutes east of the East Block. This is the closest hotel to the East Block.

Grasslands National Park Travel Tips

How to Get There

Grasslands National Park is located in southern Saskatchewan, not far from the American border. It’s in a remote and sparsely populated part of the province. The closest cities and large towns are Swift Current (1.25 hours away), Moose Jaw (2.5 hours), and Regina (3.25 hours).

There is no public transportation to Grasslands National Park, so you will need to drive yourself. If you’re flying to Saskatchewan, the nearest airport and car rentals are in Regina. I like to book with Discovercars since it lets me compare prices across different rental companies.

To get to the park from Highway 1, you’ll drive on small two-lane highways. They can be bumpy and narrow, but are fine if you go the speed limit or a little under. Use Google Maps directions and pay attention to road signs. Be careful because Google Maps may try to send you on some unmarked gravel road through farmlands. It’s faster to stick to the paved official highways.

View through the windshield of a small Saskatchewan highway
Driving on one of the small highways just west of Grasslands National Park

Driving Between the West Block and East Block

It’s a 2-hour drive between the West Block and East Block of Grasslands National Park. The entire drive is on quiet 2-lane highways with signs at major junctions. There are a few tiny towns along the route, but most do not have groceries or gas. (More details on that in the restaurants, groceries, and gas section below.)

Getting Around the Park

There is no public transportation inside Grasslands National Park, so you will need to drive yourself.

The roads inside both the West Block and East Block are gravel. In general, they are in good shape and easy to drive as long as you go slow. They can be dusty, so you’ll want to drive with your windows up and air recirculation on.

However, after it rains, the park roads can be muddy. The remote roads in the West Block are rougher and can become impassable when they are wet.

View from a car driving on the gravel roads in Grasslands National Park
The gravel roads in Grasslands National Park are well-maintained and easy to drive

National Park Passes

You must purchase a Parks Canada pass to enter Grasslands National Park. Buy one at the Visitor Centre in the town of Val Marie outside of the West Block or at the Visitor Centre at the Rock Creek Campground in the East Block.

You will need to display your park pass on the dash of your car whenever you are parked in the park.

Admission fees are quite reasonable: $7.25 for adults or $15 for a family/group in the same vehicle. You can also use a Parks Canada Discovery Pass, which gives you access to all National Parks and Historic Sites for one year.

Good news: The Canada Strong Pass applies in Grasslands National Park from June 19 to September 7, 2026. Park entry is free during that time period.

How Long to Spend

I think the ideal amount of time to spend in Grasslands National Park is two to three days. I recommend spending one or two nights in the West Block and one night in the East Block.

In general, there are more things to see and do in the West Block. Allow at least one full day for exploring the West Block. Add on an extra day if you want to do any of the hikes.

The East Block is also beautiful, but it doesn’t require as much time – you can get away with a half day here. If you want to do any of the longer hikes, add on an extra day or two.

I spent two nights in the West Block and one in the East Block. I wish I had a bit more time in the East Block to go for a longer hike.

Best Months to Visit

I visited in late May, and we had great weather and saw lots of wildflowers. It was warm but not incredibly hot.

In general, the best months to visit Grasslands National Park are May, June, and September. The park has no shade and can be brutally hot in July and August.

Weather

Summer weather in Grasslands National Park is generally warm to hot, with temperatures in the mid-20s °C to low-30s °C. It doesn’t rain often – you can expect intermittent afternoon thunderstorms in the summer, especially in June and July, but not a ton of actual rain. We had to cancel plans to hike one afternoon when a thunderstorm rolled in.

The park can also be quite windy, especially in the afternoon. If you are camping, bring a quality tent that can stand up to wind and stake it out really well.

The Canadian government produces weather forecasts for the West Block and East Block of Grasslands National Park.

Dark clouds at a viewpoint in Grasslands National Park
We had an afternoon thunderstorm blow through while we were exploring the Badlands Parkway in the East Block

What to Pack for Grasslands National Park

Grasslands National Park is a remote and rugged place, so pack for function over looks.

Bring clothing for the weather. You’ll want quick-drying clothing for hiking. I recommend wearing a long-sleeved sun hoodie so you don’t have to worry about sunscreen application as often. You’ll also want a sun hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen.

Ticks can be an issue in the park, so I recommend wearing lightweight long pants tucked into socks. Insect repellent with DEET can also help. (I actually didn’t spot any ticks in Grasslands, thankfully, but I did see them elsewhere in Saskatchewan.)

It can get colder at night or when it is windy, so a fleece jacket, lightweight puffy, or windbreaker is a good idea. I brought a toque and ended up wearing it at night.

The trails are maintained to a National Park standard, so they aren’t that rough. You can bring hiking boots, but I wore trail runners and found them sufficient.

The wildlife watching opportunities in the park are great, so bring binoculars. I have a pair of tiny Pentax binoculars that are light and compact enough to hike with.

You can get drinking water at the campgrounds and visitor centre. Parks Canada recommends you have 2 to 3 litres of water per person per day. I used my insulated Hydro Flask bottle to keep my water cold.

There is nowhere to buy food inside the park, so you’ll need to bring your own. See the restaurants, groceries, and gas section below for more info.

If you plan to camp, you’ll need standard camping gear: tent, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, stove, cooler, etc. I’ve got more info about the campground facilities in the where to stay section above.

Two people bundled up to watch the sunset in Grasslands National park
Bundled up in warm jackets and hats to watch the sunset on Badlands Parkway. It was windy! Photo: Nadine Robinson.

Cell Phone Service and Wifi

While there is good cell phone service in most of southern Saskatchewan, Grasslands National Park is the exception. Cell phone service is spotty or non-existent in most of the park.

You will get good 5G service in the town of Val Marie and at the West Block Visitor Centre. You’ll also get some LTE service on the western edge of the West Block and on the first part of the Ecotour Scenic Drive.

However, as you drive further into the park, you’ll hit a big dead zone. There is weak wifi at the Frenchman Valley Campground at the Coulee Centre. Otherwise, except no cell phone service further into the West Block of Grasslands National Park.

The East Block of Grasslands National Park does not have good cell phone service either. You may get some 4G service on the eastern edge of the park, but it drops off quickly as you drive into the park and along Badlands Parkway.

You will also drive through some dead zones with no cell service when you drive between the West Block and the East Block.

Thankfully, all of the roads are well-signed, and you can pick up good maps at the visitor centres, so you won’t get lost, even without cell service.

If you are going hiking, use a GPS app like AllTrails+ or Gaia GPS and download an offline map before you go. You will usually have no cell service on hiking trails. I recommend putting your phone in airplane mode while hiking. That will preserve the battery. If you leave it on, it just keeps looking for signal, which drains the battery.

A woman walks on a boardwalk in Grasslands National Park
Hiking the 70 Mile Butte Trail

Restaurants, Groceries, and Gas

Grasslands National Park is a VERY quiet part of Saskatchewan. The towns nearby are tiny and have few services. I recommend getting groceries in larger towns on the way to the park.

Gas stations are also fairly spread out here. Fill up before you head into the area and try to keep your tank fairly full in case your route doesn’t have many gas stations.

Here is a run-down on what you can expect in the area.

Near the West Block

Val Marie is by far the biggest town near the park. It is located near the entrance to the West Block and is home to the Visitor Centre.

It has a restaurant called the Val Marie Bar and Cafe that serves Chinese and Western food, but I didn’t eat there, so I can’t give it a review.

There is a tiny grocery store called VM Grocery and Liquor. It’s tiny, but it does have milk and other basics. It also has a small selection of souvenirs and sometimes serves to-go meals. It’s the closest place to buy ice near the park.

Val Marie also has a gas station. It is a cardlock, but it is open to the public as long as you have a credit card. Follow the printed instructions in the booth to use this old school, self-serve pump.

Downtown Val Marie looking towards the grain elevator
Downtown Val Marie. Their huge main street ends at the grain elevator. The Chinese restaurant is on the left and the grocery store is on the right.

Near the East Block

There are no towns with services close to the East Block. The town of Rockglen is 45 minutes east of the park. It has a few restaurants, a small grocery store, and a self-serve cardlock gas station.

Between West Block and East Block

The drive between West Block and East Block passes through or near several tiny towns. Mankota and McCord have self-serve cardlock gas stations but no other services.

On the Way to the West Block

If you’re coming from Highway 1 to the West Block, it makes the most sense to get supplies in Swift Current, 1.5 hours away. It has gas stations, restaurants, and several large grocery stores.

Another option if you’re coming from the west is to turn off Highway 1 at Gull Lake and head to West Block via the town of Shauavon. It’s a big town with restaurants, gas stations, and a grocery store. On my trip, I stocked up on groceries and ice here.

On the Way to the East Block

If you’re driving from Highway 1 to the East Block, the best place to get supplies is the small city of Moose Jaw, about 2.5 hours away. Moose Jaw has lots of restaurants, gas stations and grocery stores.

There are a few gas stations along the route between Moose Jaw and the East Block of Grasslands National Park. You can find them in the towns of Mossbank, Assiniboia, and Limerick.

Assiniboia is the largest town and the best place to stop. It also has restaurants and a grocery store. We even found a small coffee shop here!

An old building in Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
An old building in downtown Moose Jaw

Indigenous Context

Grasslands National Park is the traditional Indigenous territory of the Metis, Nakoda (Assiniboine), Nehiyawak (Plains Cree), Niitsitapi (Blackfoot), Dakota and Lakota (Sioux). Historically, these Nations followed the bison migration through the region.

Once the bison were hunted into extinction, Indigenous people moved elsewhere. The Wood Mountain Lakota First Nation Reserve near East Block is home to some of the remaining Indigenous people in the area.

You can still see lots of evidence of Indigenous culture in Grasslands National Park. The most obvious examples are over 20,000 tipi rings found throughout the park. These circles of rocks mark the locations where tipis were erected in summer and winter camps.

An info board about Indigenous history in Grasslands National Park
There are info boards around the park that explain the Indigenous context of the area. This one is on the Badlands Parkway.

Final Thoughts

Canada is a huge place, and the Rocky Mountains and coastlines seem to dominate travel media. We tend to skip over the middle of the country… and that’s a real shame.

I loved my time in Saskatchewan, but Grasslands National Park was my favourite. It’s quietly beautiful in a way that invites you to slow down. I loved watching the grass blow in the breeze and the clouds drift past at sunset. I also loved how relaxed Grasslands was – no crowds, no drama!

If you’re looking to get off the beaten path, I encourage you to plan a trip to Grasslands National Park and to Saskatchewan in general. If you have questions about planning your trip, ask in the comments!

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Things to Do in Gros Morne National Park https://dawnoutdoors.com/gros-morne-national-park/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/gros-morne-national-park/#respond Wed, 29 Oct 2025 20:25:29 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=23202 I’ve been to Gros Morne National Park three times, and I know I’ll be making another trip someday. When you think of Newfoundland, people picture St. John’s. But while I appreciate the charm of that city’s brightly painted buildings, the rugged and verdant landscapes of Gros Morne have my heart. I planned my first visit …

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I’ve been to Gros Morne National Park three times, and I know I’ll be making another trip someday. When you think of Newfoundland, people picture St. John’s. But while I appreciate the charm of that city’s brightly painted buildings, the rugged and verdant landscapes of Gros Morne have my heart.

I planned my first visit to Newfoundland specifically to hike in the park. While the province has some spectacular hikes, my favourite trails are in Gros Morne.

But even though my priority is hiking, there are lots of other great things to do in Gros Morne National Park. It has beautiful scenery that is accessible without hiking, but it also has great food, cute towns, and fascinating geology.

Despite three visits to the area, I still haven’t been to a few places in the park. (Trust me, I have plans to fix that someday.) But I can recommend lots of gorgeous spots to visit.

My guide to Gros Morne National Park includes:

Planning a trip to Newfoundland? I’ve got a big list of the best things to do Newfoundland plus lots of travel tips for the province.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Thanks so much to Go Western Newfoundland for hosting me during my second and third trips to Gros Morne. All opinions are my own and my husband’s experiences were not hosted. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Map of Gros Morne National Park

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Google Map of Gros Morne National Park for you. It includes every single place I mention in this post.

Google map showing things to do in Gros Morne National Park
Map of Gros Morne National Park. Explore the map.

Best Things To Do in Gros Morne

In this section, I’ve got suggestions for hikes, viewpoints, and boat tours in the park. There are also several of towns next to the park. While they aren’t technically in the national park, it makes the most sense to treat them as part of the greater Gros Morne region since you’ll visit them during your time in the park.

Since Bonne Bay splits the park in half and it takes about an hour to drive from one part of the park to the other, I’ve split this section into things to do in Southern Gros Morne to Northern Gros Morne.

Things to Do in Southern Gros Morne

Be sure to plan to spend part of your time in Southern Gros Morne along Highway 431 and in Woody Point. You can’t miss the starkly beautiful barrens of the Tablelands. Here are the best things to do in that area.

Gros Morne National Park Discovery Centre

The Gros Morne National Park Discovery Centre is located near Woody Point on the south side of Bonne Bay. Since the info centre is up on a hill, it has an incredible view of the bay and Gros Morne Mountain.

If you want to get a feel for the park, this is a great place to start. They have lots of exhibits about the park’s ecosystem and geology. They also have an info desk where you can ask questions and pick up park maps.

The entrance to the Gros Morne Discovery Centre
The entrance to the Gros Morne Discovery Centre

Woody Point

Woody Point is the main town on the southern side of Bonne Bay. This is where you’ll find most of the hotels and restaurants in the southern part of Gros Morne. (More on those in the Where to Eat and Where to Stay sections at the bottom of the post.) The Bonne Bay Water Shuttle also leaves from here.

It’s a cute historic town spread out along the waterfront. Most of the restaurants and businesses are down along Water Street. I recommend stopping at Galliott Studios for coffee and cute art. Molly Made Fibre Art on Main Road also has great handmade souvenirs along with sewing and knitting supplies.

Woody Point Newfoundland seen from Bonne Bay
Woody Point seen from the water.
The coffee counter at Galliott Studios in Woody Point in Gros Morne National Park.
The coffee at Galliott Studios is served in mugs made in the on-site pottery studio

Zodiac Tours in Bonne Bay

One of the best ways to get a feel for the vast landscapes in Gros Morne is to take a zodiac tour. That way you can zip around the waters of Bonne Bay and gaze up at the Tablelands from sea level. I didn’t appreciate how huge the Tablelands were until I saw them from the water.

I did the Tablelands Boat Tour with Wild Gros Morne. Our guide took us out into the bay to look up at the Tablelands while she explained their unique geology. It was a great prelude to our hike up to the top later the same day! She also took us along the coast to learn more about the history of small fishing villages.

The Wild Gros Morne boat dock with the Tablelands behind it
Looking back to the Wild Gros Morne dock with the Tablelands behind it
Old fishing shacks along the waterfront in Woody Point, Newfoundland
Old fishing shacks along the water in Woody Point

Lookout Trail

This moderate hike has one of the best views in Gros Morne. It climbs up through the forest to the subalpine of the Lookout Hills. From the viewing platform, you can see Bonne Bay, the Tablelands, and Gros Morne Mountain.

Plan to spend 2 to 3 hours on this 5.8 km hike. While it gains 360 m, the trail is well groomed so it never feels that steep. Don’t miss this trail in late September or early October – it has incredible autumn colours and is one of my picks for the best things to do in fall in Gros Morne.

View from the Lookout Trail in Gros Morne National Park
View from the top of the Lookout Trail

Tablelands Trail

If you’re interested in geology, you have to hike the Tablelands Trail. The rocks here look like the moon, but they are actually part of the Earth’s mantle. There are two ways to hike the Tablelands.

The first is a flat hike on an old road that follows the base of the mountain. It has great views of the rocks and is an easy walk. There are info plaques along the way to help you learn about the plants and geology.

The second option is to hike off-trail to the top of the Tablelands. It’s rocky and there are no markers, so you need to be comfortable with route finding. I went with guides from Wild Gros Morne who helped us find the best path to the top while also teaching us about the unique rocks and plants.

It was a strenuous hike, but it was definitely worth it – this is another of my picks for the best hikes in Newfoundland.

Two hikers walk on the Tablelands Trail
The easy and flat Tablelands Trail hugs the bottom of the mountain
Three people hike off trail on the Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park in Newfoundland
Hiking across the earth’s mantle on the off-trail Tablelands hike.

Green Gardens Trail

The trailhead for the Green Gardens Trail is just a few kilometres from the Tablelands, but the scenery couldn’t be more different. The trail starts in the open moonscape of the Tablelands and then descends through lush forest to the coast.

The volcanic soil, thick forest, and steep sea cliffs reminded me more of Hawaii than of Newfoundland. The hike is a 9 km round trip, so it’s a moderate half-day outing. But if you want to stay overnight, there is a backcountry campground at Old Man’s Cove.

Given the incredible ocean views, Green Gardens Trails is another of my favourite Newfoundland hikes.

Two hikers sit on red chairs on the Green Gardens Trail in Gros Morne National Park, one of the best hikes in Newfoundland
Enjoying the view of the coast on the Green Gardens Trail
Looking down to the beach on the Green Gardens Trail
Looking down to the beach from the Green Gardens Trail

Trout River

The tiny village of Trout River is at the southwestern edge of Gros Morne National Park. The sandy beach and wooden boardwalk are picturesque, but the town really glows at sunset. I spent a memorable evening on the beach watching the setting sun light up the sky. Don’t miss the Seaside Restaurant, right on the beach.

The beach and boardwalk in Trout River, Newfoundland
The beach and boardwalk in Trout River
The sun setting into the ocean in Trout River, Newfoundland
Enjoying the sunset in Trout River

Things to Do in Northern Gros Morne

The Northern part of Gros Morne along Highway 430 includes the towns of Rocky Harbour and Norris Point. The towering Long Range Mountains provide an imposing backdrop. Here are my must-dos in this area:

Norris Point and Rocky Harbour

These two cute towns are 10 minutes apart on the north shore of Bonne Bay. If you take the Bonne Bay Water Shuttle from Woody Point you’ll arrive in Norris Point.

Both towns have lots of restaurants and hotels. (More on those in the Where to Eat and Where to Stay sections at the bottom of the post.) If you’re looking for souvenirs, Gros Morne Crafts in Rocky Harbour has lots of options.

In Norris Point, visit the aquarium at the Bonne Bay Marine Station. They have lots of tanks with local marine life, some of which you can pick up and touch. Students working at the research station can tell you all about the animals, many of which are unique to this area.

Buildings along the waterfront in Norris Point, Newfoundland
The Norris Point waterfront seen from the Bonne Bay Water Shuttle

ATV Tours with Under the Stump

If you’re looking to explore Gros Morne’s backcountry, but you want an accessible way to do it without hiking, book an ATV Tour with Under the Stump. I did a 2-hour tour with Trina in her side-by-side ATV, and it was so much fun!

She drove us out into the Rocky Harbour Hills, a small pocket of wilderness that is surrounded by Gros Morne National Park, but not actually in the park. It has incredible views of Gros Morne Mountain from its less-seen Eastern side.

Trina also told us about the history of the area, including her Mi’kmaq heritage and taught us about how to forage for several types of local plants. She is a natural storyteller, and like many Newfoundlanders, loves to talk!

A side-by-side ATV in the Rocky Harbour Hills, Newfoundland
Stopping to take photos on the ATV tour
A woman stands in blueberry meadows in fall with Gros Morne Mountain in the background
Trina from Under the Stump teaching us about local plants. That’s Gros Morne Mountain behind her.

Gros Morne Mountain

If you’re up for a challenge, take on the hike to the top of Gros Morne Mountain. At 806 m, it’s the second tallest mountain in Newfoundland. (The Cabox near Bay of Islands beats it at 812 m.)

It’s a tough all-day hike but the views from the top are sublime since you can see for kilometres. Since the top of the trail is a loop, you also get a good view into Gros Morne National Park’s backcountry from the backside of the peak.

I’ve got more details on the trail in my guide to the best hikes in Newfoundland.

View of the ascent of Gros Morne Mountain
Looking back on the steepest part of the hike up Gros Morne Mountain
A woman poses with the summit sign at the top of Gros Morne Mountain
The summit of Gros Morne Mountain
View of 10 Mile Pond from the summit of Gros Morne Mountain
View of 10 Mile Pond from the near the summit

Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse

On my second trip, my husband explored the historic lighthouse at Lobster Cove Head while I was off hiking. He loved the exhibits inside including the historical photos and the opportunity to chat with park interpreters about what life was like for the lighthouse keepers.

He also recommends taking a stroll along easy trails around the lighthouse. They lead along the top of a bluff to lots of viewpoints overlooking Bonne Bay.

Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse
Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse. Photo: Greg Smolyn
Rocks on the beach and fishing shacks at Lobster Cove Head
You can also explore the beach near the lighthouse. Photo: Greg Smolyn.

Green Point Geological Site

The short walk at Green Point Geological Site has incredible clifftop views of the ocean and a pair of iconic Parks Canada red chairs, perfect for photo ops.

But the real reason to visit lies down a set of stairs. Once you reach the beach, you’ll see the the cliffs above are made of rock layers tilted on their sides, exposing hundreds of thousands of years of geologic time. Geologists used the rock layers here to confirm their theory of plate tectonics.

Be sure to go at low tide when you can access the beach. You can explore the site on your own, but its better to go with a guide who can explain the unique geology and help you find fossils. Parks Canada runs guided tours on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Or you can go with a guide from one of the local hiking tour companies – I went with Gros Morne Adventures.

Parks Canada red chairs at Green Point in Gros Morne National Park
The iconic Parks Canada red chairs on top of the cliffs at Green Point
Rock layers in the cliffs at Green Point
Hundreds of thousands of years of rock layers at Green Point

Western Brook Pond

One of the easiest ways to experience the rugged interior of Gros Morne National Park is to take a boat tour on Western Brook Pond with Bon Tours. The “pond” is actually a former fjord with towering mountains on either side and lots of waterfalls.

To get to the boat dock you must walk a flat and easy 3 km trail from the parking lot. The trail has great views as well, so it’s a good option if you don’t have time for the boat tour. And if you want to do the tour but have mobility challenges, the tour company can transport you via golf cart.

The best views are from the top deck, which is outside, so be sure to dress for the weather. I recommend packing warm, waterproof, and windproof clothing just in case. The wind really picks up in the afternoon. (I’ve got more packing tips at the bottom of this post.)

Pro tip: Sit on the left side of the boat for a closer view of the scenery.

Waterfall in Western Brook Pond
Waterfall along the cliffs in Western Brook Pond.
Fall colours on the cliffs of Western Brook Pond in Gros Morne National Park
Fall colours on the cliffs of Western Brook Pond

Long Range Traverse

While the Western Brook Pond boat tour is one of the easiest outdoor adventures in Gros Morne, the boat leads to the most extreme adventure in the park – the Long Range Traverse.

You disembark from the boat tour at the head of Western Brook Pond then navigate through the rugged Long Range Mountains off-trail for three to five days before finishing at the base of Gros Morne Mountains.

Hiking the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
Looking back down to Western Brook Pond on the first day of the Long Range Traverse.

I planned my first trip to Newfoundland specifically to hike the Long Range Traverse and it’s by far the hardest trail on my list of the best hikes in Newfoundland. The five days I spent on the trail were incredible – we saw moose and bears, got lost in a bog, and made lots of incredible memories.

Broom Point

Another spot that my husband experienced without me (much to my chagrin) is Broom Point. It’s a viewpoint with easy trails. You can explore along the coast and get great views inland to Western Brook Pond and the Long Range Mountains. There is also a restored fishing premises here that makes for great photo ops.

Red chairs at Broom Point
The iconic Parks Canada red chairs at Broom Point with the Long Range Mountains in the background. Photo: Greg Smolyn.
Restored fishing premises at Broom Point, Newfoundland
The restored fishing premises at Broom Point. Photo: Greg Smolyn.

Cow Head and Theatre Newfoundland

The town of Cow Head is near the northern boundary of Gros Morne National Park. The village has a long sandy beach and a picturesque lighthouse.

I haven’t spent any time in Cow Head, but my friend Vanessa from Turnipseed Travel was there recently and raved about Theatre Newfoundland.

She says “For twenty summers, the tiny community of Cow Head has hosted Neddy Norris Night, an intimate, acoustic show of traditional Newfoundland songs and stories. There are plenty of laughs but also several poignant moments as the musicians share songs alluding to hard bygone days. While the audience was packed with “CFAs” (that’s come-from-aways, i.e. visitors) this wasn’t a gimmicky show just for tourists. It’s a heartfelt creation of good cheer and authentic folklore that will stick with you long after the show ends.”

Drum used a Theatre Newfoundland performance
A drum used in the performance. (Photos are not allowed during the show.) Photo: Vanessa Chiasson

Where to Eat in Gros Morne

Restaurants in Southern Gros Morne

Galliott Studios and Cafe: This tiny coffee shop in Woody Point doubles as a pottery studio with drinks served in mugs thrown on site. Their sunny patio hangs over Bonne Bay and is lovely on a crisp fall day (but you’ll want to use one of their blankets). They also have a small selection of pottery and art for sale. I couldn’t resist the hand-drawn hiker stickers.

Seaside Restaurant: This iconic restaurant in Trout River is right on the beach. The same family has been cooking up seafood here since 1981. I had the best fried fish here.

Fried fish dinner at the Seaside Restaurant in Trout River, Newfoundland
A great fried fish dinner at Seaside Restaurant.

Taste: Located inside the Gros Morne Inn near Woody Point, this fine-dining restaurant that focuses on locally sourced and sustainable ingredients. I had a great lunch here with an incredible lobster bisque.

A chicken wrap and a bowl of lobster bisque at Taste Restaurant
My incredible bowl of lobster bisque at Taste. The wrap was pretty good too.

Merchant Warehouse: On one of my trips, we dropped into the Merchant Warehouse in Woody Point one afternoon for a coffee. The front of the restaurant is a full-on 50s soda shop, but they also have a full restaurant and patio overlooking the water. On my most recent trip, I had great fish and chips here.

Retro decor at the Merchant Warehouse Cafe in Woody Point, Newfoundland
The cute retro decor at the Merchant Warehouse

Restaurants in Northern Gros Morne

Old Store Cafe: This little cafe in Norris Point is a great spot for coffee, baked goods, and lunch. Try their “Gull Shit muffins” – they are chocolate muffins topped with cream cheese. Delicious!

Cat Stop Pub: The Bonne Bay water shuttle docks right next to Cat Stop Pub in Norris Point, which has a huge waterfront patio. It’s a good place for a beer and casual pub food.

The patio at the Cat Stop Pub in Norris Point
The patio at the Cat Stop Pub has a great view of Bonne Bay

Chanterelle’s: I had an amazing meal of duck breast with local patridgeberries at Chaterelle’s in Norris Point, located inside the Sugar Hill Inn. It offers fine-dining and exceptional food without too much pretension. Trust me: get the seafood cakes.

A selection of appetizers at Chanterelle's in Norris Point
Some of the appetizers we shared at Chanterelle’s. Everything was so good… especially those seafood cakes on the top left.

Java Jack’s: On my first visit to Gros Morne we had a memorable dinner at Java Jack’s in Rocky Harbour. The restaurant is in a bright yellow house in the middle of the village. They serve upscale versions of traditional Newfoundland food. I had an elevated version of stroganoff with caribou instead of beef.

Buoy & Arrow: This Indigenous-owned restaurant in Rocky Harbour has lots of locally-sourced game meat and seafood on the menu. I had an amazing moose burger. Their menu gives the names for dishes in both English and Mi’kmaq.

Where to Stay in Gros Morne

Southern Gros Morne Hotels

Bonne Bay Inn: I loved my stay at this boutique 10-room hotel. It is perched on the hillside so I had a great view of the bay from my room.

The view from the Bonne Bay Inn
The incredible view from the Bonne Bay Inn. The tall and flat mountain on the left is Gros Morne Mountain.

Gros Morne Inn: When I ate lunch at Taste, I got a mini tour of this hotel. They have incredible private hot tub pods. Each one has a panoramic view of Bonne Bay. The hotel is also the base for Tour Gros Morne, so it’s easy to book hiking tours if you stay here. (I had a great guided hike on the Green Gardens Trail with them.)

The exterior of the Gros Morne Inn near Woody Point
Outside the Gros Morne Inn. You can see the private hot tub pods on the right. They have an incredible view.

Northern Gros Morne Hotels

Gros Morne Base Camp: I spent four nights at Gros Morne Base Camp’s Burnt Hill Cabins on my fall visit. These rustic but cute cabins felt like home with little kitchens and full living rooms. They are also an easy walk to the waterfront in Norris Point or the Old Store Cafe for a morning coffee. Check rates.

One of the cabins at Gros Morne Base Camp in Norris Point
The cute cabin I stayed in at Gros Morne Base Camp

Sugar Hill Inn: I loved my time at this quaint inn in Norris Point. It had huge rooms and the wide front porch was great for enjoying the view.

Camping in Gros Morne

Gros Morne National Park has five well-equipped campgrounds with flush toilets, showers, and even wifi. I stayed at the largest Berry Hill Campground, on my first visit to the park. It has a great central location near Rocky Harbour.

Gros Morne Travel Tips

How to Get There

Unlike some parts of the province, it’s pretty easy to get to Gros Morne National Park. You can fly directly to Deer Lake airport from big Canadian cities like Montreal, Toronto, and Halifax. If you’re already in St. John’s, you can fly from there to Deer Lake – that’s what I did on my second trip to Newfoundland. From Deer Lake, it’s a 25-minute drive to the park.

If you are road-tripping across the province, you can drive to Gros Morne from St. John’s in about 7 hours. But of course, you’ll want to make lots of stops along the way to visit small towns like Trinity, Bonavista, Twillingate, and Fogo Island.

It’s also possible to get to the park by Marine Atlantic ferry. The ferry leaves from Nova Scotia and arrives at Port aux Basques in the southern part of Western Newfoundland. The sailing takes 7 hours and then it’s a 3 hour-drive from the ferry terminal.

The first time I went to Newfoundland we took an overnight ferry since we were living in Halifax at the time and it made the most sense to drive.

The road into Norris Point, Newfoundland
Driving into the town of Norris Point inside the park. Photo: Greg Smolyn

Getting Around

Gros Morne is a big park – it takes about 2 hours to drive from one side to the other. Driving is the easiest way to get around Gros Morne. The easiest place to rent a car is at the Deer Lake Airport. I use DiscoverCars since it lets me compare prices between car rental companies.

Another option is to book a tour. Several small tour companies specialize in multi-day tours in the Gros Morne area. On my trips, I did hikes with Gros Morne Adventures, Wild Gros Morne and Tour Gros Morne – they were all great.

The park is split into two parts by Bonne Bay. Use Highway 430 to access the northern part of the part and Highway 431 for the southern portion.

To get between the two sections, you can drive around Bonne Bay, which takes about an hour. Or, you can take the Bonne Bay Water Shuttle between Norris Point (north) and Woody Point (south).

I took a trip on the water shuttle on one of my visits and it was so beautiful to see the park from the water. Plus it was faster than driving! Some tour companies also have their own boats to take you across the bay.

The Bonne Bay Water Shuttle at the dock in Woody Point, Newfoundland
The Bonne Bay Water Shuttle at the Woody Point dock

National Park Passes

You must purchase a Parks Canada pass to stop anywhere in Gros Morne National Park. You can buy one at the entrance kiosk in Wiltondale or at either of the two park visitor centres. Some businesses in the towns near the park also sell park passes.

You will need to display your park pass on the dash of your car whenever you are parked in the park. If you are on a guided tour, your guide will take care of park passes for you.

How Long to Spend

How long you should spend in Gros Morne National Park depends on what you want to do. At a minimum, I would say that you want at least 3 or 4 days. But if you’re a serious hiker I think 7 days is ideal – the park contains most of my favourite hikes in Newfoundland.

Best Time to Go

I’ve heard that Gros Morne is gorgeous year-round and I’ve visited in June, August, and late September/early October. The winter photos look gorgeous and locals raved to me about skiing and snowshoeing. But most visitors will have the best experience between June and late-September. That’s when the weather is the nicest and when most tourist businesses are open.

If you’re looking for a different experience than most visitors get, consider visiting in fall. It’s perfect hiking weather, the colours are gorgeous, and you’ll have the place mostly to yourself. My guide to fall in Gros Morne has all the details.

Meadows at the top of the Lookout Trail
Hiking the Lookout Trail in fall.

Weather

Like the rest of Newfoundland, the western part of the province is never that warm. However, in June, July, and August the average high temperature in Rocky Harbour is 23°C – a bit higher than other parts of Newfoundland!

The Blow Me Down Mountains are just outside the park, which should give you a hint that it’s often windy here. As well, rain storms are common in every month. Bring warm clothing and a rain jacket, just in case.

Cell Service

In some parts of Gros Morne, cell service is spotty or non-existent. There is LTE service in the towns adjacent to the park. However, you will often lose service as soon as you leave a town.

If you are going hiking, use a GPS app like AllTrails+ and download an offline map before you go. You will usually have no cell service on the trail.

Final Thoughts

Gros Morne is one of my favourite Canadian National Parks. Honestly, it’s right up there with the Rocky Mountain Parks. That might be because the Long Range Traverse was one of my first long backpacking trips or because the trails are stunning but not crowded.

But I think it’s also because the community around the park is in so wonderful. In places like Banff, you spend your days hiking gorgeous trails and then head back to a touristy town at night where you eat at a generic restaurant staffed by seasonal workers. It’s different in Gros Morne. The old fishing towns outside the park are full of locals who love where they live and want to make sure you have a great time.

If you’ve got questions about Gros Morne, ask them in the comments. I’d love to help.

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Skoki Loop Hiking and Backpacking Trail Guide https://dawnoutdoors.com/skoki-loop/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/skoki-loop/#comments Wed, 20 Aug 2025 00:06:26 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=25321 After lots of backpacking trips in the Canadian Rockies, I think I have a new favourite! The Skoki Loop has some truly stunning scenery with high mountain passes, huge alpine lakes, and easy peaks to scramble. And it’s also only a moderate hike, so you don’t have to be a hardcore hiker. I spent four …

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After lots of backpacking trips in the Canadian Rockies, I think I have a new favourite! The Skoki Loop has some truly stunning scenery with high mountain passes, huge alpine lakes, and easy peaks to scramble. And it’s also only a moderate hike, so you don’t have to be a hardcore hiker.

I spent four days hiking the Skoki Loop in Banff National Park near Lake Louise, and I was blown away – I didn’t expect to like the area this much! I went in August, so the wildflowers were in bloom, but I think I’d also like to go in the fall to see all the larches turn gold.

I’m a hiking guidebook author and have backpacked all over BC and the Canadian Rockies, so I’ve put together a detailed Skoki Loop hiking and backpacking guide for you. It includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Skoki Loop Quick Facts

Route Overview: The Skoki Loop is a long day hike or multi-day backpacking route that makes a lollipop-shaped loop through the backcountry near Lake Louise. It goes over three passes and visits gorgeous alpine lakes.

Distance: 33.5 km

Elevation Gain: 1,295 m

Difficulty: Moderate

Duration: 3 days

Best Time to Go: Mid-July to mid-September when the trail is snow-free. Early to mid-August is wildflower season, and September is larch season.

Reservations and Fees: You must make reservations to camp. You must also pay National Park entry fees, backcountry camping fees, and a reservation fee. More details below.

Indigenous Context: The Skoki area is in the traditional territory of the Tsuut’ina, Blackfoot/Niitsítapi, Stoney Nakoda, Ktunaxa, and Métis. The government forced Indigenous people to leave when Banff National Park was created in 1885. Today, the park works with several Indigenous groups to facilitate access for traditional, ceremonial, and cultural activities, including harvesting.

Hikers near Ptarmigan Lake on the Skoki Loop.
Hikers descending Packer’s Pass towards Ptarmigan Lake.

Skoki Loop Trail Maps and Elevation Profile

For the most part, the main trails on the Skoki Loop are well-marked and easy to follow. There are signs at most junctions. However, there are a few unofficial trails and easy scrambling routes that aren’t marked with signs and aren’t on the Lake Louise and Yoho Map from Gem Trek. (Otherwise, it’s a great map!)

I used the Gaia GPS app on my hike. It was helpful to know where I was on the trail to figure out how much higher I had to climb and where the next campsite or landmark was. All Trails+ is also great.

I also made you a trail map using Gaia GPS. Click through to zoom in and explore. You can also save it to your routes in Gaia GPS or export the GPX file.

PS: Want to save 10% on a premium subscription to Gaia GPS (the app I use for all my hikes)? Use my link – the discount appears in cart.

Map of the Skoki Loop trail in Banff National Park
I made you this map of the Skoki Loop Trail. The main route is in red, and the side trips and alternate routes are in purple. Click the map to zoom in and explore.
Elevation profile for the Skoki Loop hike
Elevation Profile for the Skoki Loop hike from Gaia GPS.

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Skoki Loop Trail Description

If you look online, you’ll find several different versions of the Skoki Loop. I’ve chosen to describe the most popular and most scenic version here. It goes from the trailhead to Baker Lake, then around Fossil Mountain to the Skoki Lodge. To complete the loop, you’ll hike from Skoki Lodge over Packer’s Pass, then rejoin the main path to the trailhead.

You might find other Skoki Loop descriptions that include Deception Pass or go around Skoki Mountain via Red Deer Lakes. I don’t recommend those routes since they aren’t as beautiful. But I do have details on them in the alternative routes section below.

Read on for my detailed description of the Skoki Loop hike.

Key Locations

KMElevationLandmark
0 km1,690 mTrailhead/Parking
3.9 km2,020 mLeave ski area
7 km2,205 mHalfway Hut/Hidden Lake Jct
8.5 km2,350 mBoulder Pass/Ptarmigan Lake
9.3 km2,385 mPacker’s Pass Jct
10.3 km2,385 mDeception Pass Jct South
12.8 km2,340 mBaker Lake Camp
15.7 km2,220 mRed Deer Lakes Jct
18.2 km2,230 mJones Pass
18.8 km2,200 mDeception Pass Jct North
19.3 km2,170 mSkoki Lodge/Merlin Meadows Jct
19.5 km2,165 mMerlin Lake Jct
21.7 km2,265 mMyosotis Lake
22.4 km2,280 mZigadenus Lake
23.5 km2,475 mPacker’s Pass
24.2 km2,385 mPacker’s Pass Jct
25 km2,350 mBoulder Pass/Ptarmigan Lake
26.5 km2,205 mHalfway Hut/Hidden Lake Jct
29.6 km2,020 mRe-enter ski area
33.5 km1,690 mTrailhead/Parking

Trailhead to Halfway Hut/Hidden Lake Camp

Distance: 7 km

Elevation Gain: 540 m

Elevation Loss: 30 m

From the parking area, walk past the info signs and gate onto the wide gravel road. This road is part of the Lake Louise Ski Area and is closed to public vehicles and bikes. However, you will see vehicles from the ski area, Skoki Lodge, and guided tour companies. Unfortunately, none of them will give you a ride!

Sign for Skoki Lodge along the road near Lake Louise ski hill
Walking the road. Follow the signs for Skoki Lodge to stay on track at all forks.

Continue up the road, which is steep in places. Ignore a left fork at 1.2 km. Cross a bridge at 2.4 km. At 3.6 km, reach a parking area and info kiosk just after passing under a ski lift. This is as far as the Skoki Lodge and guided tour companies can go.

Stay on the road for a few more minutes as you cross a ski run and the road curves uphill to the right. The road turns into a trail 3.9 km from the trailhead as it heads steeply uphill.

Follow the trail across another ski run and back into the trees. The trail stays in the forest for the next few kilometres while continuing to climb gradually. Cross creeks on small bridges at 4.3 km, 5.7 km, and 6.5 km.

Bridge on the Skoki Trail
The bridge at the 6.5 km mark. That’s Redoubt Mountain in the background.

Cross a creek at 7 km. On the other side, a side trail straight up the hill goes to Halfway Hut. The main trail to Hidden Lake Camp goes left.

Halfway Hut is a historic log cabin, originally constructed as a stopping point along the winter ski route between Lake Louise and Skoki Lodge. Today, it’s a good place to stop for lunch, especially if it’s raining. There is an outhouse here, too.

The junction with the trail to Hidden Lake and Hidden Lake Campground is 100 metres away along the main trail. Hidden Lake Campground is another 100 meters along the side trail.

Historic Halfway Hut
Halfway Hut is a good place to stop for a break.

Halfway Hut/Hidden Lake Camp to Baker Lake Camp

Distance: 5.8 km

Elevation Gain: 235 m

Elevation Loss: 195 m

Past the Hidden Lake junction, the forest starts to thin out, and you’ll start to get glimpses of alpine meadows. The vegetation also starts to change, and alpine larch trees become more numerous.

The trail skirts a huge rock slide below Redoubt Mountain with lots of enormous boulders. Reach the crest of Boulder Pass at 8.5 km. The huge expanse of Ptarmigan Lake stretches out in front of you. This is a great place for a break to enjoy the incredible views.

A hiker in Boulder Pass
Looking down the west side of Boulder Pass.
Hikers on the trail around Ptarmigan Lake in Banff National Park
Following the trail around Ptarmigan Lake

Keep following the trail as it skirts around the northwest edge of Ptarmigan Lake. At 9.3 km, you may be able to spot the unmarked junction with the Packer’s Pass Trail. This is your return route. For now, continue along the main trail as it stays in the grassy meadows above Ptarmigan Lake.

At 10.3 km, reach the marked junction with the Deception Pass Trail. This is an alternative (and more direct) route to Skoki Lodge. However, my recommended route continues east, since it is more scenic.

Follow the trail through grassy meadows, speckled with wildflowers. Descend to the north shore of Baker Lake, then follow the trail through low bushes along its length. Arrive at the turn-off to Baker Lake Campground at 12.8 km.

Hikers in wildflower meadows near Ptarmigan Lake in Banff National Park
The trail goes through wildflower meadows between Ptarmigan and Baker Lakes
Hikers on the trail near Baker Lake in Banff National Park
Hiking through the bushes next to Baker Lake.

Baker Lake Camp to Skoki Lodge

Distance: 6.5 km

Elevation Gain: 145 m

Elevation Loss: 285 m

From Baker Lake Camp, follow the trail east to a junction, then turn left to go north on the Cotton Grass Pass Trail. The first few minutes are in the trees, but the trail quickly emerges into a wide, grassy valley. There are great views of Oyster Peak to the east. The wavy ridge of the mountain did kind of look like an oyster shell!

Reach a junction at 15.7 km. The trail continues straight up the valley to Red Deer Lakes 2.9 km away. However, my recommended route goes left between Fossil and Skoki Mountains. The narrow trail climbs gradually through tight forest before crossing a creek in a wet meadow at 18.2 km. This is Jones Pass.

A hiker on the Cotton Grass Pass Trail
Hiking through Cotton Grass Pass. Photo: Brenda Remedios.
Jones Pass in Banff National Park
Jones Pass with Wall of Jericho in the background

From here, follow the path slightly downhill through the forest. When the trees start to thin out, reach a junction with the trail from Deception Pass at 18.8 km. Turn right and walk a few more minutes through the open forest and meadow to Skoki Lodge at 19.3 km.

The benches and chairs outside the historic lodge are the perfect place to take a break. The lodge is a Canadian historic site, dating back to 1933, and is the first backcountry ski lodge in North America. If you aren’t staying in one of their rustic log cabins, you can buy snacks and drinks (including alcohol) from them between 2 and 4 pm. They accept cash and cards.

If you are staying at Merlin Meadows Campground, it’s 1 km away on the trail to the north.

Price list at Skoki Lodge.
Price list at Skoki Lodge.

Skoki Lodge to Zigadenus Lake

Distance: 3.1 km

Elevation Gain: 135 m

Elevation Loss: 30 m

To continue your hike around the Skoki Loop, follow the signs in front of the lodge to cross the bridge over the creek. At 19.5 km, reach a literal fork in the trail – there is a huge wooden fork propped against a tree! The route to Merlin Lake heads right, but your route goes left towards Packer’s Pass.

The Packer’s Pass Trail is not an official Parks Canada trail and does not appear on most maps. However, it is easy to follow.

The trail goes through forest and patches of meadow. After the trail leaves the forest and contours below a rock slide on the Wall of Jericho, rock hop across a wide creek at 21.3 km. Follow the trail through another patch of meadow.

Cairns take you up through a talus field beside a waterfall. It looks like the trail disappears, but it actually tucks in behind a rock fin. You’ll clamber up between the narrow rock walls of a chimney, passing under a chock stone. There is one tricky move with a big step. Some hikers may wish to take their packs off and pass them up through here. And some hikers may need a boost up the step. But in general, it is very easy scrambling.

Hikers cross a creek on the Packer's Pass Trail
Crossing the creek below Myosotis Lake
Waterfall below Myosotis Lake on the Skoki Loop
The waterfall below Myosotis Lake. You can’t see it, but the trail goes up a hidden chimney to the left of the waterfall.
Hikers climbing out of the chimney near Myosotis Lake.
Climbing out of the top of the chimney. Photo: Brenda Remedios.

At the top of the chimney, follow cairns southwest towards Myosotis Lake at 21.7 km. Several side trails lead you down to the lake shore. Myosotis is the Latin name for forget-me-nots – you might spot these blue flowers in alpine meadows.

The trail continues along the east side of the lake, popping in and out of the forest. On the south side of the lake, follow cairns across a talus field, then head south up a short, steep hill.

Reach the shores of Zigadenus Lake at 22.4 km. The huge tilted rock slab holds back the lake’s western edge. It reminded me a bit of the sloped concrete edge of a half-empty swimming pool! The lake gets its name from mountain deathcamas, a whitish green flower that used to be classified in the Zigadenus genus. Together, Myosotis and Zigadenus Lakes are referred to as the Skoki Lakes.

A hiker at Myosotis Lake
First view of Myosotis Lake with Pika and Ptarmigan Peaks.
Climbing up the screen slope at the far end of Myosotis Lake
Climbing up the screen slope at the far end of Myosotis Lake. That’s Skoki Mountain in the background. Photo: Brenda Remedios.
Hikers on the shore of Zigadenus Lake.
Zigadenus Lake

Zigadenus Lake to Packer’s Pass

Distance: 1.1 km

Elevation Gain: 195 m

Elevation Loss: 0 m

Past Zigadenus Lake, the trail climbs steadily uphill through open meadow and patches of larch trees. As you approach the pass, the vegetation ends, and you walk over bare gravel.

Reach Packer’s Pass at 23.5 km. This is the high point of the Skoki Loop. The pass takes its name from hired workers who packed supplies into Skoki Lodge on foot. While horses had to take the more gentle (and slightly longer) trip through Deception Pass, the packers could take the quicker Packers Pass since they could navigate the chimney at Myosotis Pass on foot.

Packer’s Pass has the best views on the entire Skoki Loop. Look back the way you came to the Skoki Lakes with the Wall of Jericho rising behind them. In front of you, look down at Ptarmigan Lake and Redoubt Lake with Redoubt Mountain towering overhead. For even better views, scramble up the trail-less Packer’s Pass Peak. (More details on that in the side trips section below.)

A hiker near Packer's Pass
Almost to Packer’s Pass. That’s Zigadenus Lake and the Wall of Jericho in the background.
Looking down to Ptarmigan Lake from Packer's Pass.
Looking down from Packer’s Pass to Ptarmigan Lake. That’s Redoubt Mountain and Redoubt Lake in the background. The route back to the trailhead over Boulder Pass is on the right.

Packer’s Pass to Trailhead

Distance: 10 km

Elevation Gain: 40 m

Elevation Loss: 825 m

From the pass, follow the path downhill through the gravel, then meadows, to rejoin the main trail at 24.2 km. Retrace your steps along Ptarmigan Lake to reach Boulder Pass at 25 km.

Head downhill and back into the forest, passing Halfway Hut and Hidden Lake Camp junction at 26.5 km. Keep hiking downhill to re-enter the Lake Louise ski area and start the road walk at 29.6 km. Finish your hike on the Skoki Loop back at the parking lot at 33.5 km.

Fireweed in front of Ptarmigan Lake on the Packer's Pass Trail
Fireweed in front of Ptarmigan Lake on the Packer’s Pass Trail
Descending Boulder Pass
Descending Boulder Pass back into the forest.
.

Side Trips and Alternative Routes on the Skoki Loop

Instead of rushing through your trip, I recommend building time into your itinerary to tackle some of the side trips or alternative routes. Details on those are below.

Merlin Lake Loop Side Trip

Distance: 6.7 km loop

Elevation Gain: 330 m

The Merlin Lake Loop is the most popular day hike in the Skoki area. The trail starts at Skoki Lodge. Go right at the famous “fork” in the trail, and ascend through the forest. From here, the trail cuts across steep gravel slopes on the north side of the Wall of Jericho. Lawrence Grassi, the architect of the renowned Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit, built this trail in the 1940s.

Follow the narrow trail along the steep mountainside to a spot where it heads directly uphill into a chimney. Scramble up the chimney, following stacked rocks to stay on track. At the top, head across rock slabs to the shores of the gorgeous lake at 2.6 km. The glaciers of Mount Richardson tumble down the cliffs on the far side.

A hiker on the Merlin Lake Trail
The Merlin Lake Trail
Chimney on the way to Merlin Lake
Scrambling up the chimney on the way to Merlin Lake
A hiker at Merlin Lake
Merlin Lake

You can retrace your steps from here, or take the trail at the lake’s northeast corner to make a loop. I recommend the loop since it avoids having to down climb the chimney. Plus, it’s more interesting to make a loop.

For the loop, follow the trail from the lakeshore as it descends steeply through the forest before reaching the marshy valley bottom. Continue along the trail beside the stream, then cross a narrow log bridge. Turn right and take the trail through Merlin Meadows Camp, then back to the lodge to finish the loop.

A hiker crosses a log bridge on the Merlin Lake Trail
Crossing the log bridge. Photo: Brenda Remedios.

Skoki Mountain Side Trip

Distance: 3.9 km round trip

Elevation Gain: 505 m

The informal trail to Skoki Mountain starts behind the outhouses at Skoki Lodge. Since the higher sections traverse scree without a real trail, it’s a scramble, but you never need to use your hands. The first part of the trail climbs steeply through the forest, where you will clamber over several fallen trees. As you get higher, the vegetation turns to open meadows, and then to scree.

Cairns mark your route as you climb higher on the mountain’s slope. In places, it is very steep and loose, so watch your footing carefully. The summit has great views of Merlin Lake to the west, the Skoki Lakes to the southwest, and Red Deer Lakes to the northeast. Watch for fossils in the rocks.

Hikers on the lower slopes of Skoki Mountain
Hiking up the lower slopes of Skoki Mountain. Photo: Brenda Remedios.
Merlin Lake from near the summit of Skoki Mountain.
Merlin Lake from near the summit of Skoki Mountain. Photo: Brenda Remedios.

Packer’s Pass Peak Side Trip

Distance: 1.1 km round trip

Elevation Gain: 95 m

Packer’s Pass Peak is a quick side trip from Packer’s Pass. There is no trail, but you will find a vague footbed in a few places. Just follow the path of least resistance up the grassy slopes from the pass.

The southwest side of the peak from the pass is gentle, making for a straightforward ascent. But the north side drops off precipitously, so take care on the summit. Reaching the peak will give you great views of Baker Lake, Brachiopod Mountain and Heather Ridge to the southeast, as well as Fossil Mountain to the east. This was my favourite viewpoint on the Skoki Loop.

A hiker takes a selfie on Packer's Pass Peak.
Taking a selfie on Packer’s Pass Peak. That’s Baker Lake behind me.
A hiker descends Packer's Pass Peak.
Descending Packer’s Pass Peak.

Red Deer Lakes Loop Alternative Route

Distance: 8.9 km one way

Elevation Gain: 145 m

If you want to make the Skoki Loop a little longer, you can continue north on the Cotton Grass Pass Trail to Red Deer Lakes. From there, you’ll go northwest around Skoki Mountain, then south through Merlin Meadows to Skoki Lodge. This route is 8.9 km from the Cotton Grass/Red Deer Lakes junction to Skoki Lodge instead of the 3.6 km direct route through Jones Pass.

I haven’t taken this route, but I’ve heard that it is beautiful along the Cotton Grass Pass Trail. However, once it gets to Red Deer Lakes, I hear that it is marshy and a bit overgrown. As well, I’ve heard that the section from Red Deer Lakes to Merlin Meadows is in the trees and isn’t anything special.

On my trip, we opted for the direct route through Jones Pass so we could spend the rest of the day doing a day hike to Merlin Lake instead of doing the longer route through Red Deer Lakes.

Red Deer Lakes from above
Aerial view of Red Deer Lakes from Skoki Mountain.

Deception Pass Alternative Route

Distance: 3.5 km

Elevation Gain: 80 m

The route from the Baker Lake Trail via Deception Pass is the traditional and most direct route to the Skoki Lodge. This is the route to take if you don’t have time for the loop around Fossil Mountain via Baker Lake, Cotton Grass Pass, and Jones Pass, or you don’t want to climb the chimney on the Packer’s Pass Route. Horses also use the Deception Pass Route.

I didn’t take the Deception Pass route since I heard that the Cotton Grass/Jones Pass and Packer’s Pass routes were much more scenic. If you take Deception Pass, you’ll miss the incredible Skoki Lakes!

The route climbs up to the pass through open meadows, then descends gently through more meadows with views of Fossil Mountain.

A hiker standing on the summit of Packer's Peak with Deception Pass in the background.
In this photo of me on top of Packer’s Pass Peak you can see Deception Pass in the background, in front of Fossil Mountain.

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Skoki Loop Itineraries

While strong hikers with an early start can do the Skoki Loop as a day hike, I recommend spending a few days in the area to do some of the side trips. Here are some sample itineraries.

Recommended 3-Day Skoki Loop Itinerary

This is the itinerary I used and the one I recommend. It includes the Skoki Loop and has time for a side trip.

Day 1: Trailhead to Baker Lake Camp – Distance: 12.8 km, Elevation Gain: 775 m, Elevation Loss: 225 m, Time: 4 to 6 hours.

Day 2A: Baker Lake Camp to Merlin Meadows Camp via Jones Pass – Distance: 7.5 km, Elevation Gain: 145 m, Elevation Loss: 285 m, Time: 2 to 3 hours.

Day 2B: Merlin Lake Loop day hike – Distance: 6.7 km, Elevation Gain: 330 m, Elevation Loss: 330 m, Time: 2 to 3.5 hours.

Day 3: Merlin Meadows Camp to Trailhead via Packer’s Pass – Distance: 15.4 km, Elevation Gain: 440 m, Elevation Loss: 850 m, Time: 4.5 to 7 hours. Optional: Add Packer’s Pass Peak for and extra 1.1 km with 95 m of elevation gain and loss.

3-Day Base Camp Skoki Loop Itineraries

If you’d rather hike the bulk of the Skoki Loop with a day pack (or you can’t get a booking at Merlin Meadows), you can use Baker Lake or Hidden Lake campgrounds as a base camp to do the Skoki Loop.

Baker Lake Base Camp:

Day 1: Trailhead to Baker Lake Camp – Distance: 12.8 km, Elevation Gain: 775 m, Elevation Loss: 225 m, Time: 4 to 6 hours.

Day 2: Day hike Baker Lake Camp to Baker Lake Camp via Jones Pass and Packer Pass – Distance: 14.9 km; Elevation Gain: 520 m, Elevation Loss: 520 m, Time: 5 to 6 hours. Optional: Add Packer’s Pass Peak for and extra 1.1 km with 95 m of elevation gain and loss.

Day 3: Baker Lake Camp to Trailhead – Distance: 12.8 km, Elevation Gain: 225 m, Elevation Loss: 775 m, Time: 3.5 to 5 hours.

Hidden Lake Base Camp:

Day 1A: Trailhead to Hidden Lake Camp – Distance: 7 km, Elevation Gain: 540 m, Elevation Loss: 30 m, Time: 2 to 3 hours.

Day 1B: Day hike to Hidden Lake from Hidden Lake Camp – Distance: 2.6 km, Elevation Gain: 120 m, Elevation Loss: 120 m, Time: 1 to 2.5 hours

Day 2: Hidden Lake Camp to Hidden Lake Camp via Baker Lake, Jones Pass, and Packer’s Pass – Distance: 19.6 km, Elevation Gain: 725 m, Elevation Loss: 725 m, Time: 6 to 8 hours.Optional: Add Packer’s Pass Peak for and extra 1.1 km with 95 m of elevation gain and loss.

Day 3: Hidden Lake Camp to Trailhead: Distance: 7 km, Elevation Gain: 30 m, Elevation Loss: 540 m, Time: 2 hours.

2 or 3 Day Skoki Direct Itinerary

This route isn’t really the Skoki Loop since it doesn’t go around Skoki Mountain… but it is still a little bit of a loop since it uses both Deception and Packer’s Passes. You can do it as a 2-day route, or add on an optional third day for day hikes.

Day 1: Trailhead to Merlin Meadows Camp via Deception Pass – Distance: 15.3 km, Elevation Gain: 825 m, Elevation Loss: 415 m, Time: 5 to 7 hours

Optional Day 2: Merlin Lake Loop day hike – Distance: 6.7 km, Elevation Gain: 330 m, Elevation Loss: 330 m, Time: 2 to 3.5 hours AND/OR Skoki Mountain day hike – Distance: 6 km, Elevation Gain: 570 m, Elevation Loss: 570 m, Time: 2.5 to 4 hours

Day 2 or 3: Merlin Meadows Camp to Trailhead via Packer’s Pass – Distance: 15.4 km, Elevation Gain: 440 m, Elevation Loss: 850 m, Time: 4.5 to 7 hours. Optional: Add Packer’s Pass Peak for and extra 1.1 km with 95 m of elevation gain and loss.

Hikers on Skoki Mountain
I recommend building time into your itinerary for some side trips, like this one to Skoki Mountain.

Camping and Where to Stay on the Skoki Loop

There are several campgrounds along the Skoki Loop as well as the Skoki Lodge. Here are details on each one:

Hidden Lake Campground

Located 7 km from the trailhead, you can use this campground as a base camp to hike into the core Skoki area, but it’s a bit far. If you’re with a slower group, you could also use this campground as a way to break up the journey into a longer trip. It’s also a great base for day hikes to Hidden Lake.

The campground has clumps of trees and patches of meadow. There is a stream on the west side of the campground for water. It has 10 tent sites on wood-framed dirt platforms, a cooking area, an outhouse, and food storage lockers.

Baker Lake Campground

Baker Lake Campground is 12.8 km from the trailhead on a bluff at the east end of Baker Lake. It’s a good first night’s stop on the Skoki Loop. You can also use it as a base camp if you want to do the Skoki Loop without packs.

The campground is set in a clump of trees on a bluff with 10 wood-framed dirt tent pads, an outhouse, and a cooking area with tables, benches, and food storage cables. But it’s a 2-minute walk down the hill to the lakeshore, which has incredible views of the surrounding mountains. You can collect water from the lake.

Tents at Baker Lake Campground
Baker Lake Campground
Baker Lake at dusk
Baker Lake outlet at dusk

Merlin Meadows Campground

This is the best campground for day hikes in the Skoki area. I spent two nights here so we could do day hikes to Merlin Lake and Skoki Mountain. The campground itself is kinda meh – both the tent area and the cooking area are in the trees. However, you can walk out in the meadows by the creek for good views.

There are no tent pads here – instead, you just choose a clearing in the trees. There are two outhouses near the tenting area.

The cooking area has four tables with benches and one food storage pole with cables. The main trail runs right through the cooking area. There are more food storage cables near the tenting area. There are several informal paths down to a creek to collect water north of the campground.

A tent at Merlin Meadows Campground
My tent at Merlin Meadows Campground
View of the mountains from near Merlin Meadows Camp
If you want out towards the creek, you can get good views near Merlin Meadows Campground

Red Deer Lakes Campground

Choose Red Deer Lakes if you can’t get a booking at Merlin Meadows or if you want a bit of solitude. It’s further from the Skoki core area, so it doesn’t make a great base camp. Despite the name, the campground is not on the lakeshore.

This campground does not have designated campsites – camp in the clearings along Red Deer River, which is the water source. It has an outhouse and food hanging cables.

Skoki Lodge

This historic Skoki Lodge dates back to the 1930s and is one of the oldest backcountry lodges in Canada. You can stay in the main lodge or one of the log cabins. They have room for up to 22 guests at once. Your stay includes all meals. Prices start at about $300/person/night. The lodge is in high demand, so you need to book about one year in advance.

The exterior of Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park
Skoki Lodge

Skoki Loop Reservations and Fees

Since the Skoki area has some of the most popular backcountry campgrounds in Banff National Park, advance reservations are required.

Reservations for the entire summer season open in January or February each year. In 2026, reservations open on January 26, 2026, at 8 a.m. Mountain Time. You must book on the Parks Canada Reservations website.

See my tips for booking backcountry camping for pointers on how to navigate the site. Be ready to book as soon as reservations open because popular dates will sell out in minutes.

Your booking can include up to 10 people and up to 3 tent pads on the same reservation. Keep in mind that you are only allowed to have one tent per tent pad and four people per tent.

Step-By-Step Reservation Instructions

To make a reservation, select:

  • “Backcountry” at the top (with the hiker icon), the
  • “Backcountry Zone” button
  • “Banff, Kootenay, and Yoho” from the Park drop-down.
  • Access point “Fish Creek Trailhead” from the Access Point drop-down.

Have the following info ready to go when you make your reservation:

  • preferred itinerary with campgrounds and dates, plus backups
  • number of tent pads and people you are booking for
  • credit card

If You Didn’t Get a Reservation

If you didn’t get a reservation at your chosen Skoki area campgrounds, keep checking back as people cancel and spots open up. On my trip, there were empty tent pads in the campgrounds two out of the three nights, so it seems that cancellations do happen.

A more efficient way is to sign up for a camping cancellation notification app like Campnab or Schnerp. Read my guide to camping cancellation apps to find out how they work and which one I recommend.

Fees

You must pay a few different fees to hike the Skoki Loop. The cost breakdown is as follows:

  • Backcountry camping reservation fee: $11.50 per booking (for up to 10 people and up to 3 tent pads)
  • Backcountry camping fee: $13.50/person/night
  • Yoho/Banff/Kootenay National Parks entry fee: $11/person/day (or $22 per car/day with up to 7 people)

Most people spend three days/two nights in the Skoki area. In that case, a solo hiker would pay $71.50. Per-person costs decrease if you hike in a group since you can share the expense of reservations and national park entry fees.

How to Get to the Skoki Loop

The Skoki Loop is located in Banff National Park near Lake Louise. The trailhead is near the Lake Louise Ski Area on the east side of Highway 1.

The trailhead is a 5-minute drive from the Lake Louise Visitor Centre. To get there, take the Lake Louise exit from Highway 1, then go east towards Lake Louise ski hill. Just before you get to the ski hill, take a gravel road to the right, marked with a sign for Skoki Lodge. Follow it for 1 km to a parking area.

You can park in the lot on the right or along the road. There are port-a-potties in the parking lot. You must have a valid national park pass on your dashboard to park here.

If you don’t have a car, you can take a shuttle bus to Banff, then take Roam bus route 8X from Banff to Lake Louise village. From there, it’s a 3.2 km walk to the trailhead with 120 m of elevation gain.

If you’re looking for a place to stay before your trip, I recommend booking a hotel in Golden. It’s only one-hour away and it is sooo much cheaper than Lake Louise or Banff. Basecamp Lodge Golden is a good mid-range pick. If you’re on a budget, stay at the basic Rondo Motel.

Trailhead and parking area for the Skoki Loop
The trailhead (through the gate) and roadside parking area.

Tips for Hiking the Skoki Loop

Cooking Areas: Each campground has a communal cooking area with a few tables. It was nice to have a place to sit down each evening! But don’t hog the tables – they are for everyone to share. The cooking areas are separate from the tenting areas for bear safety. Please don’t eat or cook near your tent.

Food Storage: Most campgrounds have a pole with pulleys for food storage. Bring a waterproof bag to store your food in case it rains overnight. I always keep my food in a lightweight dry bag. The pulleys have clips, but some are broken – carry a carabiner as a backup.

Mosquitos: Bugs can be bad on the trail in July and mid-August. Bring bug spray and a head net.

Bears: This is black and grizzly bear country. Bring bear spray, make noise while hiking, and store your food securely. See my bear safety tips for more info.

Porcupines: Some campsites (especially Baker Lake) are notorious for porcupines who will chew your gear. Hang packs, poles, and boots out of their reach at night or bring them into your tent.

Dogs: Allowed on leash.

Fires: Not allowed in the backcountry.

Check the weather before you go: The high mountains are notorious for fickle weather. Rainstorms can blow in at any time. Expect overnight lows near freezing on some days. City weather forecasts are useless in the mountains. Use an algorithmic spot forecast for Skoki Mountain like Spotwx. (Read my guide to weather apps for hikers for more tips.)

What to Bring: This is a remote hiking trip, so you will need to bring typical backpacking gear. Use my backpacking checklist to make sure you have everything you need. For Skoki, I recommend a warm sleeping bag, a lightweight tarp for eating under (I use the MEC Scout UL Silicone Tarp), and a head net for bugs.

A group of hikers eats under an orange tarp
Eating breakfast under our kitchen tarp to stay out of the rain.
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Final Thoughts

I’m often a one-and-done hiker – I finish a trail and don’t think about repeating it for years, or even decades. However, the Skoki Loop was so beautiful (and easy) that I’m already thinking about doing it again. I even want to splurge and stay in the Skoki Lodge so I can hike in and out with a smaller backpack!

While the Skoki area is popular, it does seem easier to book than some other Rockies backpacking trips, and it never felt busy or crowded, even with Skoki Lodge guests out on the trails.

Do you have questions about backpacking the Skoki Loop? Ask in the comments and I’ll help you out.

READ NEXT:

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Hiking at Sunshine Meadows in Banff – Is it Worth It? https://dawnoutdoors.com/hiking-at-sunshine-meadows-in-banff/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/hiking-at-sunshine-meadows-in-banff/#respond Thu, 10 Apr 2025 00:49:09 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=23426 I’ve done a lot of hiking around Banff and in the Canadian Rockies… and the trails at Sunshine Meadows have by far the best effort-to-reward ratio. There is literally nowhere else where you can wander through wildflower meadows, hike past alpine lakes, and enjoy mountain views while barely breaking a sweat. In the winter this …

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I’ve done a lot of hiking around Banff and in the Canadian Rockies… and the trails at Sunshine Meadows have by far the best effort-to-reward ratio. There is literally nowhere else where you can wander through wildflower meadows, hike past alpine lakes, and enjoy mountain views while barely breaking a sweat.

In the winter this area is known as the Sunshine Village Ski Resort, one of the three ski areas in Banff. But in the summer the wildflowers bloom and it turns into an epic hiking destination.

On my last trip to Banff, I spent a day hiking high in the mountains at Sunshine Meadows. I’m a hiking guidebook author, so I’m always thinking about the optimal way to do each hike. So I’ve put together a custom route for you plus lots of tips for enjoying your time in this special place.

This Sunshine Meadows hiking guide includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Thanks to Sunshine Meadows for hosting me on my visit. All opinions in this post are my own and I would happily pay out of my own pocket to hike here again. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Is Hiking at Sunshine Meadows Worth It?

You might be wondering if it’s worth spending money to ride the gondola up to Sunshine Meadows to go hiking. The short answer: YES!

The gondola takes you high up into the mountains, above the treeline and in the alpine with gorgeous mountain lakes. That means there are views in every direction and wildflowers everywhere.

Sunshine Meadows is the only accessible place near Banff to go for an easy or moderate hike in the mountains. All of the other easy and moderate hikes are in the valley bottom.

The only other way to get to that kind of terrain is to hike steeply uphill for literally hours. Other hikes that take you to this type of terrain are rated difficult.

Wildflowers next to Rock Isle Lake
You won’t find alpine wildflowers like these on the valley bottom hikes in Banff

Sunshine Meadows vs. Banff Gondola and Lake Louise Gondola

With three summer sightseeing gondolas near Banff, you might wonder how Sunshine Meadows stacks up compared to the Banff Gondola and the Lake Louise Gondola.

The Banff Gondola is the closest to the town of Banff. It goes up Sulphur Mountain, which is tree-covered (unlike the alpine landscape at Sunshine). It has great views of Banff and the Bow Valley. There is a short boardwalk through the trees, but no hiking trails or wildflower meadows. It’s a bit more expensive than Sunshine.

Walkway at the Sulphur Mountain Gondola in Banff
The Banff Gondola has an interpretive walkway on the summit and views of the Bow Valley, but no hiking trails or meadows. Photo: ronniechua/Deposit Photos

The Lake Louise Gondola takes you up through the Lake Louise ski resort so you get views of ski runs, although sometimes people do spot bears from the gondola. There is a small viewing platform at the top where you can look across the valley to Lake Louise and the surrounding mountains. There are no hiking trails. Tickets are slightly cheaper than Sunshine Meadows.

View from the Lake Louise Gondola in summer
The Lake Louise Gondola goes up over the ski runs. Photo: Tatsuo115/Deposit Photos

Tips for Hiking at Sunshine Meadows

Tips for Planning Your Trip

  • The best time to go to Sunshine Meadows is between mid-July and early September when the trails are snow-free. For peak wildflowers, go in late July or early August. Plan to go on a clear day so you can enjoy the views. (I visited in late August and most of the flowers were done but it was still pretty.)
  • Check the weather before you go. City weather forecasts are useless in the mountains. Use an algorithmic spot forecast for Sunshine like Spotwx. (Read my guide to weather apps for hikers for more tips.) It’s also worth checking current conditions at Sunshine and the Rock Isle webcam.
  • Check gondola hours and trail status. Make sure the trails are open and the gondola and chairlifts are running by the Sunshine trail report.
  • Arrive in the morning: That gives you lots of time to hike and explore. As well, it’s more likely to be cloudy in the afternoon. Don’t go any later than 2 or 3 pm because you won’t have enough time before they close.
View of Rock Isle Lake
Rock Isle Lake

What to Pack

  • Bring a rain jacket and warm clothing just in case. It can be much colder and rainier in the mountains than in the valley.
  • Wear sunscreen. The sun is bright up here and there isn’t much shade.
  • Bring water and snacks. You can fill up your water bottles at the Centennial Lodge at the top of the gondola and grab snacks at the cafe.
  • Bring the 10 Essentials. These are key safety items you should have on every hike.
  • Bring a camera – it’s gorgeous and you will want tons of pics! But leave the drone at home. Drones aren’t allowed at Sunshine or in Banff National Park without a commercial filming permit.
  • Bring bear spray. Black bears and grizzly bears live here and are sometimes sighted on the trails. The staff are great about closing trails and warning hikers if there is a bear around. Bring bear spray just in case because bears go where they want, when they want.

How to Respect This Fragile Ecosystem

  • Pack out all your garbage. There are garbage cans at Centennial Lodge – please pack out your trash.
  • Use the toilets. There are toilets at the Centennial Lodge and outhouses near Rock Isle junction and Grizzly/Laryx junction, but there are no other toilets on the trails.
  • Don’t pick the wildflowers. It can take years for each plant to produce a single flower. Leave the flowers for everyone to enjoy. Take photos instead. Visit the Interpretive Centre near the gondola for help identifying all the wildflower species you spot.
  • Stay out of the lakes. While you might be tempted to take a dip on a sunny day, swimming isn’t allowed. The lakes are very shallow and sensitive ecosystems.
  • Dogs aren’t allowed on the gondola or chairlift. You can hike up the access road with your dog on leash, but it’s 5.5 km each way with 510 m of elevation gain. Dogs are allowed on the Sunshine trails on leash.
  • Respect Indigenous traditional territory. The Sunshine Meadows area is in the traditional territory of the Tsuut’ina, Michif Piyii (Mestis), Niitsítpiis-stahkoii (Blackfoot / Niitsítapi), Ĩyãħé Nakón mąkóce (Stoney) and Ktunaxa ɁamakɁis. The government forced Indigenous people to leave soon after Banff National Park was created in 1885 and prohibited them from accessing their traditional territory to hunt, fish, gather, and conduct cultural practices.
A sign next to the trail at Sunshine Meadows shows hikers that they should stay on the trail to protect the plants
Staying on trail protects the wildflowers.

Sunshine Meadows Hiking Basics

Sunshine Meadows has 6 hiking trails that you can combine to make various loops. The must-do is the Standish Viewing Deck Loop. But I’ve got a recommended route at the bottom of this post that hits all the highlights.

Here are some stats for the hikes at Sunshine Meadows:

Duration: 30 minutes to four hours

Distance: 0.8 km to 9.8 km

Difficulty: Very easy to moderate

Elevation Change: Up 300 m

Cost: As of 2025, it’s $68/person for adults (kids and seniors are cheaper). This includes rides on both the gondola and chairlift.

Sunshine Meadows Hiking Trails Map

The Sunshine Meadows trails are easy to follow with lots of signs and maps at every junction. When you buy your gondola tickets, they will give you a paper map.

Official Sunshine Meadows hiking map
The paper hiking map that you’ll get at Sunshine Meadows

The map is pretty, but it doesn’t show a lot of the small ups and downs the way a topographic map does. I made you a custom trail map using Gaia GPS, my favourite mapping app. It shows all the locations I mention in this post. Click through to zoom in and explore (and to download the GPX file).

Map of hiking trails at Sunshine Meadows
I made you this custom map in Gaia GPS – my recommended route is in red. Click through to zoom in and explore.

PS: Want to save 10% on a premium subscription to Gaia GPS (the app I use for all my hikes)? Use my link – the discount appears in cart.

How to Get to Sunshine Meadows

Sunshine Meadows is located at the Sunshine Village ski area 15 minutes west of Banff. It’s easy to drive yourself and there is lots of free parking. Here are Google Maps driving directions.

If you don’t have a car, Sunshine also runs a free shuttle bus several times a day.

Once you arrive at the parking lot and gondola base, head inside and buy your gondola tickets. From there board the high-speed eight-passenger gondola and enjoy mountain scenery on the 25-minute ride up into the mountains. The gondola tops out at 2,159 meters.

A woman enjoys the view from the Sunshine Meadows Gondola
The views from the Sunshine Meadows gondola are great

When you get off the gondola staff will greet you to give you a brief overview of the area and explain how to respect this beautiful place by staying on trail, not picking flowers etc. They will also give you some bear safety tips.

I recommend going inside the Centennial Lodge to use the bathroom before you hit the trails. It’s also worth visiting the Interpretive Centre inside the lodge to check out the wildflower displays. That way you can try to recognize some of the flowers you will be seeing on your hike.

Sunshine Meadows Hiking Directions (My Recommended Route)

There are six trails at Sunshine Meadows, but if you just want the highlights, follow my recommended route (below). It has step-by-step directions to ensure you see the highlights.

Here are the stats for this route:

Duration: 3 to 4 hours

Distance: 6.9 km

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation Change: 312 m

Below are step-by-step directions for each part of the hike.

Close  up of wildflowers on the Sunshine Meadows hiking trails
Watch for wildflowers on all the hikes

Standish Express Chairlift and Standish Viewing Deck

To start the hike, walk from the gondola over to the Standish Express Chairlift. This is an open chairlift where your feet dangle, so some people may find it unnerving to ride compared to the gondola. However, it’s not that steep and it doesn’t take long so I think you’ll be fine. You’ll also have beautiful scenery to distract you.

The chairlift will bring you to the top of Mount Standish, also called Standish Hump. This is the highest point of your hike so enjoy the 360-degree views.

When you are ready to start hiking, you can take either the left or right path – they meet up in a few minutes at the Standish Viewing Deck 300 m from the chairlift.

A hiker on the Standish Loop
The views are amazing as soon as you get off the chairlift

The Standish Viewing Deck has the best views at Sunshine Meadows. In my opinion, this is one of the best viewpoints anywhere in the Banff area. Don’t miss it!

From the two-level deck, you can look south to Rock Isle, Grizzly, and Laryx Lakes. On a clear day, you can also see the pointy top of Mount Assiniboine, nicknamed Canada’s Matterhorn. To the east you can spot the ski runs on Brewster Rock and Mount Howard Douglas. And to the west, you can see the rocky peaks of Two Cairns.

View of Grizzly and Laryx Lakes from the Standish Viewing Deck
View of Grizzly and Laryx Lakes from the Standish Viewing Deck
A sign at the Standish Viewing Deck names the surrounding mountains
There are signs explaining the surrounding scenery

Standish Viewing Deck to Rock Isle Viewpoint

From the viewing deck, follow the trail down the stairs and then down the hill through a few clumps of trees. Arrive at Two Cairns junction about 400 m from the viewing deck.

A hiker at Sunshine Meadows near Banff
Descending from the Standish Viewing Deck

Turn left and follow the trail towards Rock Isle Junction. The trail continues downhill, although not as steeply as before. About 300 m from Two Cairns Junction, arrive at Rock Isle Junction. There are views of Rock Isle Lake here, but continue straight for even better views.

Looking down to Rock Isle Lake
One of the first views of Rock Isle Lake
Rock Isle Lake at Sunshine Meadows
Hiking past Rock Isle Lake

Pass a spur trail on your left leading to an outhouse, and arrive at Rock Isle Viewpoint about 400 m from Rock Isle Junction. The benches here have an incredible view of Rock Isle Lake so it’s a great spot for a snack break. It should be pretty obvious to you how the lake got its name – the island in the lake is a big rock!

Hikers rest on benches at Rock Isle Viewpoint
Rock Isle Viewpoint is the best spot for a snack

Rock Isle Viewpoint to Grizzly/Laryx Junction

When you are finished at the viewpoint, retrace your steps back to Rock Isle Junction and turn left. Follow the trail along a ridge beside Rock Isle Lake. There are more photo opportunities here too including a short spur trail to the right that takes you to a bluff top viewpoint.

A hiker on a bluff viewpoint above Rock Isle Lake
The bluff viewpoint next to Rock Isle Lake

At the end of the lake, the trail drops downhill on a staircase and winds through patches of trees and meadow. Arrive at Grizzly/Laryx Junction about 900 m from Rock Isle Junction.

Fireweed next to a trail sign
Fireweed growing next to the junction

Grizzly/Laryx Loop

At Grizzly/Laryx junction turn right to start the loop. There is an outhouse just past the junction in the trees. (FYI Laryx is the Latin name for the larch tree – there are lots of them in this area.)

Continue along the trail as it heads gently downhill through a meadow to Grizzly Lake, about 500 m from the junction. The trail follows the east shore of the lake, then heads through an open meadow which is a great place to see wildflowers.

Hikers cross a bridge at Grizzly Lake
First views of Grizzly Lake
Hikers beside Grizzly Lake at Sunshine Meadows
Hiking beside Grizzly Lake

After a few minutes in the forest, watch for the Simpson Viewpoint on your left, about 500 m after leaving Grizzly Lake. The viewpoint sits on the edge of a deep canyon. You can see the Simpson River basin, which burned in forest fires in 2017.

Looking down the Simpson Valley from the Sunshine Meadows trails
Looking down into the burned Simpson Valley

From the viewpoint, continue along the trail to Laryx Lake, 100 m away. The trail loops around the south and east sides of the lake. A bench on the peninsula partway along makes a good break spot.

A hiker next to Laryx Lake
Hiking beside Laryx Lake

Past the end of the lake, the trail heads through another wildflower meadow and then an open forest to arrive back at the Grizzly/Laryx junction.

Looking back through wildflower meadows to Laryx Lake
Looking back through wildflower meadows to Laryx Lake

Grizzly/Laryx Junction Back to Standish Chairlift

From the Grizzly/Laryx Junction, you’ll be retracing your steps back to the Standish Chairlift. Unfortunately, this section is all uphill. You’ll hike another 1.9 km and gain 180 meters. Thankfully the views are great – just remember to turn around to look at them!

Starting from Grizzly/Laryx Junction, hike back uphill through the forest and up the stairs to the shores of Rock Isle Lake. From there, turn left at Rock Isle Junction. Head uphill to Two Cairns junction, then turn right and go uphill again to the Standish Viewing Deck and the Standish Chairlift just past that. Ride the chairlift back down to Sunshine Village.

People riding the Standish Chairlift
Ride the Standish Chairlift back to Sunshine Village

Other Hikes at Sunshine Meadows (Extending Your Trip)

The route above hits all the highlights and has the best views. However, if you want to try some of the other trails or extend your trip, here are some options I recommend:

Twin Cairns Trail and Monarch Viewpoint

This option adds 4.2 km to your hike and takes 1 to 1.5 hours. Follow the instructions in the recommended route above, but when you reach Twin Cairns junction the second time, don’t go up the hill to Standish Viewing Deck.

Instead, go left down the hill on the Twin Cairns Trail. This route works its way through a rocky valley between Twin Cairns Peak and Mount Standish. About 2 km from the start, arrive at a junction.

Go left for a few minutes to the Monarch Viewpoint. From the viewpoint, look west down the Healy Creek Valley to Healy Pass and the Monarch Ramparts. Picturesque Egypt Lake lies behind them along with pointy Pharaoh Peak.

Retrace your steps back to the junction and go left, following the Meadow Park Trail down the hill into the forest. Continue along the trail as it winds downhill and finishes at the gondola.

Close up of paintbrush flower
Paintbrush is one of my favourite alpine wildflowers

Rock Isle Road

If you don’t feel like climbing back up to Mount Standish to ride the gondola down, you can walk down via the Rock Isle Road. The road is 1.75 km long and loses 60 m of elevation.

The Rock Isle Road starts near Rock Isle Viewpoint and makes its way through the ski resort to the bottom of Standish Chairlift. It’s wide and dusty and not very scenic, so I don’t recommend it unless you don’t want to climb the hill back to Standish Chairlift.

Citadel Pass and Mount Assiniboine

If you want to venture further into the backcountry, follow the Citadel Pass Trail southeast from near Rock Isle Junction. It leads all the way to Mount Assiniboine, one of the most popular (and gorgeous) backpacking trips in the Canadian Rockies. It’s also one of my favourite trips.

Looking towards Citadel Pass from Sunshine Meadows
Looking towards Citadel Pass from the Standish Viewing Deck

It’s 27.5 km one way to the campgrounds at Mount Assiniboine, but you don’t have to hike the entire way to get good scenery. Citadel Pass, 7.8 km from Sunshine Meadows makes an excellent day trip destination.

The route goes into Banff National Park and has great views as you go up and over Quartz Ridge. Stop at Howard Douglas Lake just off the trail for a break, then continue on the pass for beautiful views of Mount Assiniboine.

READ NEXT: Mount Assiniboine Hiking Guide

View from the Nublet
Spectacular scenery at Mount Assiniboine. The mountain itself is in the clouds behind Sunburst Peak (at centre).

Healy Pass and Egypt Lake

Another long day hike or backpacking trip option is the trip over Simpson Pass to Healy Pass and then Egypt Lake.

This hike starts from the Monarch Viewpoint. From there, it’s 10.4 km to Healy Pass. The route goes over Simpson Pass and then skirts below the Monarch Ramparts. Healy Pass has incredible views of Pharaoh Peak and beautiful golden larch trees in the fall.

If you want to camp overnight, Egypt Lake is a further 3 km downhill from Healy Pass. I loved the Egypt Lake area – there are so many beautiful little lakes nearby you can hike to from the campground.

READ NEXT: Egypt Lake in Banff Hiking and Backpacking Guide

Egypt Lake, Scarab Lake, and Mummy Lake in Banff National Park seen from the top of Pharaoh Peak
Egypt Lake, Scarab Lake, and Mummy Lake seen from the top of Pharaoh Peak

How to Hike at Sunshine Meadows For Free (Without Taking the Gondola)

I get it – the Sunshine Meadows gondola is expensive. It’s possible to here without taking the gondola, but it’s a very steep and boring hike so I don’t recommend it.

But if you really want to hike at Sunshine Meadows without taking the gondola, I’ll help you do it. You can hike via the gravel access road from the parking area to the top of the gondola. This is also the only way to hike at Sunshine Meadows with a dog.

Here are the key stats:

  • Duration: 2.5 hours up, 1.5 hours down
  • Distance: 5.6 km each way
  • Difficulty: Very Challenging
  • Elevation Gain: 511 m

The gravel access road starts behind the gondola buildings in the parking lot. It is free to hike but biking is not allowed. It is not open to the public, but you may encounter resort vehicles on the road, so be prepared to step to the side and let them pass.

The road climbs steadily and steeply in between the gondola and Sunshine Creek. The first 4 km are at a steady grade, but the last part isn’t as steep. The road is wide and dusty. As you get higher you’ll pass several ski runs and ski resort buildings.

Other Things to Do at Sunshine Meadows

I think the number one thing you should do at Sunshine Meadows is follow my recommended hiking route, above. And if you don’t do that, you should at least visit the Standish Viewing Deck via the Standish Chairlift to enjoy the views.

But if you’re looking to maximize your time at Sunshine Meadows, here are a few other activities I think are worthwhile.

Guided Hikes

If you want to learn more about the local flowers and mountain scenery, book a Hosted Trail Walk. There are one- and two-hour options. These are fairly short hikes so they are great for beginners or those with less stamina. These hikes are also a great way to work on your wildflower ID skills.

Both walks take in the scenery between the Standish Chairlift and the Standish Viewing Platform. The two-hour version also passes by Rock Isle Lake Viewpoint. Neither hike goes to Grizzly and Laryx Lakes.

Interpretive Centre

If you have time, I recommend visiting the Interpretive Centre both before and after your hike. It has displays about the local wildflowers, animals, and other parts of the ecosystem.

If you visit before your hike you can get an idea of which flowers are in bloom and tips for identifying them. And if you visit after, you can check to see if you identified the flowers correctly.

An info board at the Sunshine Meadows Interpretive Centre shows which flowers are in bloom
An info board at the Interpretive Centre shows which flowers are in bloom

Restaurants and Cafes

You can bring your own food and drinks to Sunshine Meadows, but they also have several restaurants and cafes. On my visit, it was lovely to grab a coffee from the Java Lift cafe inside Sunshine Mountain Lodge and then enjoy it in the sunshine after our hike.

We ate lunch out on the trails, but I was a bit envious of people sitting on the patio outside the log-cabin-style Old Sunshine Lodge at Mad Trappers Grill. The menu includes pub staples like burgers, wings, and poutine.

People sitting on at picnic tables outside the Mad Trapper's Grill at Sunshine Village
People sitting on at picnic tables outside the Mad Trapper’s Grill

There’s also a sit-down restaurant called The Chimney Corner in the Sunshine Mountain Lodge that mostly caters to overnight guests, as well as a coffee shop at the base station at the bottom of the gondola.

Stay Overnight

Did you know you can stay overnight at Sunshine Meadows? The Sunshine Mountain Lodge is right next to the gondola, so you can hike right from your hotel room. (Guests at the lodge get there via the gondola.)

Prices for winter ski season are insane (rightly so!) but summer rates are pretty reasonable considering you are staying at the only mountain-top hotel in Banff! All of the rooms have mountain views.

Final Thoughts

Most visitors to Banff stay down in the valley, looking up at the mountains. I think they are really missing out – you need to get up close to the alpine scenery to really appreciate it. If it’s in your budget, I really recommend hiking at Sunshine Meadows.

I’ve done all kinds of tough backcountry hikes around Banff, and the scenery at Sunshine is just as spectacular, except that I didn’t have to spend hours (or even days) hiking uphill through the forest to get there!

If you’ve got questions about planning a trip to Sunshine, hit me up in the comments. I’m happy to help.

READ NEXT:

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Egypt Lake in Banff Hiking and Backpacking Guide https://dawnoutdoors.com/egypt-lake-banff-backpacking/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/egypt-lake-banff-backpacking/#respond Fri, 18 Oct 2024 23:17:27 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=23421 Banff National Park’s Egypt Lake area is gorgeous: a scattering of blue glacial lakes below rugged peaks. In between, you’ll find patches of meadows, majestic alpine larch trees, and well-maintained trails. It’s a moderate hike to the Egypt Lake campground, which makes a great base camp for exploring. It’s a tough backcountry camp to reserve, …

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Banff National Park’s Egypt Lake area is gorgeous: a scattering of blue glacial lakes below rugged peaks. In between, you’ll find patches of meadows, majestic alpine larch trees, and well-maintained trails.

It’s a moderate hike to the Egypt Lake campground, which makes a great base camp for exploring. It’s a tough backcountry camp to reserve, so some people do it as an overnighter. But if you can book for more than one night, do it! You’ll get to do some great day hikes.

After having this hike on my list for the last few years, I finally made it happen. On my late-August trip, we spent three nights at the campground and visited all of the nearby lakes. We had some soggy and cloudy weather, but some patches of sun too.

In this post, I’ve got everything you need to plan a trip to this beautiful area. My guide to backpacking to Egypt Lake includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

A hiker in a subalpine meadow near Mummy Lake
Day hiking to Mummy Lake.

Egypt Lake Quick Facts

Trail Overview: This area is one of the most popular spots in the backcountry of Banff National Park. It is a collection of small lakes set below dramatic peaks. The Egypt Lake campground makes a good base camp for exploring.

What’s With That Name? When A.O. Wheeler, the founder of the Alpine Club of Canada, hiked through here in 1913, the Pharaoh Peaks had already been named for their pyramid shape. Wheeler kept with the theme and gave other features in the area Egyptian names.

Route Options: The most direct route to Egypt Lake is via the Healy Creek Trail, described in this trail guide. But there are also other options, described in the alternative routes section.

Distance: 24.6 km round-trip (plus side trips)

Elevation Gain: 1,135 m round-trip

Difficulty: Moderate

How Long to Spend: You can do it as an overnight trip, but I recommend 3 or 4 days so you have time for day hikes from your base camp at Egypt Lake.

Best Time to Go: Mid-July to mid-September when the trail is snow-free. For wildflowers aim for early August. For golden larches, go in mid- to late-September.

Reservations and Costs: You must make reservations and pay National Park entry fees, backcountry camping fees, and a reservation fee. More details are in the reservations and costs sections below.

What to Bring: This is a remote hiking trip with no services. Use my backpacking checklist to make sure you have everything you need.

Wildlife: The trail is in black and grizzly bear country. Carry bear spray, hike in a group, and make noise. Use campground cooking areas and store all your food and toiletries in the food lockers. Read my bear safety tips for backpackers for more info.

Dogs: Banff National Park discourages bringing dogs into the backcountry because they can trigger aggressive behaviour from wildlife. But dogs are allowed on leash.

Fires: Not allowed in the backcountry.

Indigenous Context: The Egypt Lake area is in the traditional territory of the Tsuut’ina, Blackfoot/Niitsítapi, Stoney Nakoda, Ktunaxa, Secwépemc, and Métis. Before Europeans arrived, the nearby Bow Valley was an important travel and trading corridor. The government forced Indigenous people to leave when Banff National Park was created in 1885 and prohibited them from accessing their traditional territory. Today, the park works with several Indigenous groups to facilitate park access for traditional, ceremonial, and cultural activities including harvesting.

Looking down on Scarab and Mummy Lakes from Pharaoh Peaks
Looking down on Scarab and Mummy Lakes from Pharaoh Peaks. Photo: Brenda Remedios

Egypt Lake Trail Map and Elevation Profile

The trails in the Egypt Lake area are well-marked and easy to navigate with signs at all junctions. If you want a paper map, the Banff and Mount Assiniboine Map from Gem Trek is the best one.

I used the Gaia GPS app on my hike. It was helpful to know where I was on the trail to figure out how much higher I had to climb and where the next campsite or landmark was. All Trails+ is also great.

I also made you a bunch of trail maps using Gaia GPS. Click through to zoom in and explore. You can also save it to your routes in Gaia GPS or export the gpx file. There are more maps in the route options section.

Map of trails around Egypt Lake in Banff National Park
I made you this map of the Egypt Lake area. The main route is in red, the alternates are magenta and the day hikes are dark purple. Click the map to zoom in and explore in Gaia GPS.
Elevation profile for the Healy Creek Trail to Egypt Lake.
Elevation profile for the hike to Egypt Lake on the Healy Creek Trail.

How to Get to the Healy Pass Trailhead

Egypt Lake is located in Banff National Park on the west side of Highway 1 between Banff and Lake Louise. Most people start the hike at the Healy Pass Trailhead at the Sunshine Village ski area parking lot. (I’ve got info on other trailheads in the alternative routes section below.)

The trailhead is a 20-minute drive from the town of Banff. To get there, go west on Highway 1 and then take the Sunshine Road exit. Follow that road until its end at the Sunshine Village base. Here are Google Maps driving directions.

You can park anywhere in the large parking lot, but you need to display a valid National Parks pass on your windshield.

If you don’t have a car, Sunshine Village offers a free shuttle from downtown Banff several times a day.

The Healy Pass trailhead is located on the west side of the main Sunshine Village gondola building. Walk around the back past the hotel guest check-in doors. There is a large info sign with a map and trail info. The trail starts by crossing the wide wooden bridge.

The Sunshine Village gondola base building
The trailhead is around the back of the Sunshine Village Gondola building.

Reservations

Since Egypt Lake is one of the most popular backcountry campgrounds in Banff National Park, advance reservations are required.

Reservations for the entire summer season open in January or February each year. In 2026, reservations open on January 26, 2026, at 8 a.m. Mountain Time. You must book on the Parks Canada Reservations website.

See my tips for booking backcountry camping for pointers on how to navigate the site. Be ready to book as soon as reservations open as popular dates will sell out in minutes.

Your booking can include up to 10 people and up to 3 tent pads on the same reservation. Keep in mind that you are only allowed to have one tent per tent pad and four people per tent.

Step-By-Step Reservation Instructions

To make a reservation, select:

  • “Backcountry” at the top (with the hiker icon), the
  • “Backcountry Zone” button
  • “Banff, Kootenay, and Yoho” from the Park drop-down.
  • Access point “Sunshine Village” from the Access Point drop-down.

Have the following info ready to go when you make your reservation:

  • preferred itinerary with campgrounds and dates as well as backups
  • number of tent pads and people you are booking for
  • credit card

If You Didn’t Get a Reservation

If you didn’t get a reservation at Egypt Lake Campground, keep checking back as people cancel and spots open up. A more efficient way is to sign up for a camping cancellation notification app like Campnab or Schnerp. Read my guide to camping cancellation apps to find out how they work and which one I recommend.

You can also camp at Healy Creek Campground 7.1 km from Egypt Lake Campground, or Pharaoh Creek Campground (4.8 km away). From those camps, you can day hike into the Egypt Lake area.

Tents in a meadow at Egypt Lake Campground
Tents at the Egypt Lake campground

Fees

You must pay a few different fees to hike to Egypt Lake. The cost breakdown is as follows:

  • Backcountry camping reservation fee: $11.50 per booking (for up to 10 people and up to 3 tent pads)
  • Backcountry camping fee: $13.50/person/night
  • Yoho/Banff/Kootenay National Parks entry fee: $11/person/day (or $22 per car/day with up to 7 people)

Most people spend three days/two nights at Egypt Lake. In that case, a solo hiker would pay $71.50. Per-person costs decrease if you hike in a group since you can share the expense of reservation and national park entry fees.

Egypt Lake via Healy Pass Trail Description

The most direct way to backpack to Egypt Lake is to to an out-and-back trip via the Healy Pass Trail. That’s what I did and what is described below. For other options, see the alternative routes section below. Below is a section-by-section breakdown of the Healy Pass Trail.

Healy Pass Trailhead to Healy Creek Camp

Distance: 5.3 km

Time: 1.25 to 2 hours

Elevation Gain: 335 m

Elevation Loss: 30 m

The first section of the trail from the parking area to Healy Creek Camp climbs gradually in the valley. The ascent is steady, but in most places barely perceptible.

From the trailhead, cross the bridge over the creek and follow the wide road-like trail. The Sunshine Village access road is up the steep bank to your left and you might occasionally see ski hill maintenance vehicles on the road.

About 0.9 km from the start the trail dips down into a ravine and crosses Sunshine Creek on a long, narrow bridge.

Two people cross a long, narrow bridge over Sunshine Creek in Banff National Park
Crossing the bridge over Sunshine Creek.

On the other side, the path begins to look less like a road and more like a wide trail.A brief climb at the 1.5 km mark kicks the grade up for a few minutes, but the trail ascends more gently through the forest.

Reach the bridge over Healy Creek at the 3 km mark. There is a good spot for a break if you need one.

View from the bridge over Healy Creek on the way to Egypt Lake
Looking upstream from the Healy Creek bridge

From the bridge, the trail meanders through the flattish valley bottom. The trail is mostly in the forest, but you pass through several avalanche paths. Healy Creek is off to your left. You can sometimes hear but it remains out of sight in the bushes.

Hikers on a clearing in the trail on the route to Egypt Lake in Banff National Park
Crossing one of the avalanche paths. It was nice to get a break from the forest.

Healy Creek Camp

Reach Healy Creek Camp at 5.3 km. It is set in the valley bottom near the junction of Healy Creek and an unnamed creek. The campsite is in a somewhat open forest. It’s a good spot to camp if you need to split up the trek over two days or if you can’t get a reservation for Egypt Lake Camp. Otherwise, it’s pretty meh.

Sign at the entrance to Healy Creek Camp
The sign at the entrance to Healy Creek Camp.

The campground has five dirt tent platforms and a newish outhouse. There is a cooking area on a spur trail to the east. It has one big picnic table and food lockers. Get water from Healy Creek via one of the brushy side trails from the cooking area or camping area.

Healy Creek Camp to Healy Pass

Distance: 3.8 km

Time: 1.25 to 2 hours

Elevation Gain: 380 m

Elevation Loss: 3 m

From Healy Creek Camp to the pass the trail begins to climb more than the route to camp. However, the ascent is never very steep – it’s a steady plod uphill.

Follow the main trail out of the campground. Reach a junction with the trail to Simpson Pass 5.7 km from the trailhead. Go straight to stay on the main Healy Pass Trail.

From here the climbing starts. Ascend steadily through the forest. As you begin to break out of the trees, reach another junction about 7.5 km from the start. Go right to stay on the Healy Pass Trail – the trail to the left is another route to Simpson Pass, Sunshine Village, and Eohippus Lake.

Trail sign at the junction between the Healy Pass and Simpson Pass Trails
Trail sign at the junction as you begin to emerge from the forest.

Past the junction, the scenery really improves. Make your way uphill through patches of meadow and clumps of larch trees. They hadn’t started to turn on my late August trip, but by early October they are spectacularly golden.

The wildflowers had finished by the time I got here in late August, but I’ve seen photos from other years, and it looks like you can get a great display through here from late July through mid-August.

A hiker walks through larch meadows near Healy Pass
Walking through the meadows near Healy Pass

There are several unnamed tarns nestled in the meadows to your left (southwest) in front of the impressive peaks of the Monarch Ramparts with The Monarch behind them. If there aren’t too many clouds, you can also see the Matterhorn-like peak of Mount Assiniboine to the south.

Looking south from Healy Pass in Banff National Park
Looking south from Healy Pass. The pointy mountain in the distance is Mount Assiniboine. Photo: Brenda Remedios.

Reach the 2360 m high pass about 9 km from the start. It is marked by a sign. Looking west you can spot Egypt Lake and Scarab Lake below the imposing Pharaoh Peaks.

A hiker walks through Healy Pass with Egypt Lake and Scarab Lake visible across the valley
The view of Egypt Lake and Scarab Lake from Healy Pass

Healy Pass to Egypt Lake Camp

Distance: 3.3 km

Time: 1 to 1.5 hours

Elevation Gain: 15 m

Elevation Loss: 370 m

Your route to Egypt Lake Campground is all downhill. From the pass take the trail heading northwest – ignore the trail to the south that goes towards the Monarch Ramparts.

The first kilometre of the descent is in a sub-alpine meadow with clumps of larch trees. The descent gets a little steadier once you transition into the forest. It’s pretty much a straight shot downhill to the northwest. I don’t have any photos of this part because it was raining in this section on my hike in AND my hike out!

About 11.7 km from the trailhead the path starts to flatten out a bit as you get into the Pharaoh Creek valley. Pass a ranger hut at the 12 km mark, then cross the bridge over Pharaoh Creek at 12.1 km.

The ranger station near Egypt Lake
The ranger station is just off the main trail.
Hikers walk across the Pharaoh Creek bridge
Crossing the bridge over Pharaoh Creek. My friend took this photo on our hike out so that’s Pharaoh Peak behind me. Photo: Brenda Remedios

There are two trails from the bridge heading up the small rise. The first trail (northwest) goes to the Egypt Lake campground cooking area. The second trail (southwest) goes to the tenting area. Arrive at the campground 12.3 km from the trailhead.

Egypt Lake Camp

Egypt Lake Camp is set in a patch of meadow above Pharaoh Creek. It’s important to note that it is NOT at Egypt Lake – the lake is about 0.75 km away.

It’s a good base camp for day hikes to the nearby lakes, passes, and peaks. (More on that in the day hikes section below.)

There are 15 dirt tent pads spread out along the main trail to Egypt Lake. Some of the tent pads have good views of Healy Pass. There are two elevated outhouses in the centre of the campground between clusters of tent pads.

Tents in the Egypt Lake Campground with a sign in the foreground.
Tents at the Egypt Lake Campground. That’s my orange Big Agnes Copper Spur on the far left.

Until 2023, the Egypt Lake Shelter used to be next to the outhouses. It was aging so they tore it down. Parks Canada has indicated that they intend to replace the shelter at some point, but I can’t find any info with a timeline. For now, there is a rectangular patch of grass where the shelter used to be.

The cooking area is located along the Pharaoh Creek trail about 150 m north of the tent area. It has three large picnic tables and two clusters of food lockers. The picnic tables and food lockers are spread out along a maze of rooty trails. Head down to the bridge over Pharaoh Creek to collect water.

A tarp over a picnic table at Egypt Lake Campground
It rained on and off during our trip so we strung up a tarp over one of the picnic tables. It’s a huge table so we shared with other groups.
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Alternative Routes to Egypt Lake

There are a few other routes to Egypt Lake that are popular enough to mention. I haven’t done these routes myself, but I did a lot of research leading up to my trip to figure out which way we wanted to hike in.

Here is a quick overview of the routes to Egypt Lake (one-way)

RouteDistanceTimeElevation GainElevation Loss
Healy Pass12.3 km3.5-5.5 hours730 m400 m
Sunshine Village12.6 km3.5-5.5 hours510 m675 m
Gibbon Pass26.4 km2 days1,584 m1,270 m
Redearth19.3 km6-8 hours845 m265 m

Sunshine Village/Simpson Pass Route

Distance: 12.6 km or 13.6 km

Time: 3.5 to 5.5 hours

Elevation Gain: 510 m or 370 m

Elevation Loss: 675 m or 740 m

Map showing the trail from Sunshine Village to Egypt Lake
The routes from the top of the Sunshine Village gondola are in magenta. You can see where they join the main Healy Pass Trail (red) just before Healy Pass. Click the map to zoom in and explore in Gaia GPS.

This route starts from the top of the Sunshine Village Gondola (which I have ridden – it’s gorgeous up there! Read my Sunshine Meadows hiking guide.) Since it starts high, there is a bit less elevation overall, but it’s a rolling route. This route is also more expensive since you have to pay for the gondola. There are no backcountry campgrounds along this route.

A woman looks out the window at the mountains from inside the Sunshine Village Gondola
The view from the Sunshine Village Gondoa is pretty spectacular.

From the top of the gondola, you can take the Meadow Park Trail up to Monarch Viewpoint (2,350 m). From there, you descend to Simpson Pass, then climb up to Healy Pass where you follow the Healy Pass Trail directions above.

You can also add an extra kilometre and lots more scenery to this route by taking the Standish Chair from the top of the gondola up to the viewing deck. After enjoying the incredible views of Rock Isle Lake, take the Twin Cairns Trail to Monarch Viewpoint, where you meet up with the main Sunshine Village/Simpson Pass route.

Hikers enjoy the views from the Standish Viewing Deck at Sunshine Village
Don’t miss the incredible view from the Standish Viewing Deck at Sunshine Village.

Gibbon and Whistling Passes Route

Distance: 26.4 km

Time: 2 days

Elevation Gain: 1,585 m

Elevation Loss: 1,270 m

Map showing alternate routes to Egypt Lake (via Arnica Lake and Red Earth Creek)
The routes to Egypt Lake via Gibbon and Whistling Pass (top left) and Redearth Creek (top right) are shown in magenta.

This route starts at the Arnica Lake Trailhead on Highway 93. It passes Arnica Lake, Twin Lakes, Gibbon Pass, Shadow Lake, and Whistling Passes before arriving at Egypt Lake. Most hikers using this route do it as a traverse, starting at Arnica Lake Trailhead and finishing at Healy Pass trailhead (or the reverse).

There are backcountry campgrounds at Twin Lakes, Shadow Lake, and Ball Pass Junction to split up the journey.

From everything I’ve read about this route, it is spectacular, with incredible scenery, especially at the passes.

This option requires arranging a car shuttle or an expensive taxi from Banff or Lake Louise. I thought about doing this route (and it does look incredible) but the logistics of trying to line up campsites and the car shuttle as part of an already-packed three-week roadtrip to the Rockies scared me off. Next time though!

Redearth and Pharaoh Creeks Route

Distance: 19.4 km

Time: 6 to 8 hours

Elevation Gain: 855 m

Elevation Loss: 265 m

See the map in the Gibbon and Whistling Pass section above to visualize this route or view it in Gaia GPS.

This route follows the Redearth Creek and Pharaoh Creek trails to Egypt Lake. It’s entirely in valley bottoms so it isn’t as scenic or popular. However, it is usually snow-free earlier in the year.

Along the way, you will pass by Lost Horse Creek and Pharaoh Creek Campgrounds. You can also make a detour off of this route to stay at Shadow Lake Camp.

Looking north along Pharaoh Creek.
Looking north from the Pharaoh Creek bridge near the Egypt Lake Campground. The peak in the distance is Copper Mountain in the Redearth Creek valley.
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Day Hikes from Egypt Lake Camp

Egypt Lake Campground has a great base camp for day hiking. There are lots of options in the area. I’ve got lots of options below. All stats assume you start at Egypt Lake campground.

Egypt Lake

Distance: 1.4 km round-trip

Time: 20 minutes

Elevation Gain: 20 m

Egypt Lake is a quick hike from the campground. It’s short enough that you can do it the same day you arrive. From the middle of the campground near the outhouse, follow the trail southwest through the tenting area.

In a clearing, turn left onto the marked Egypt Lake trail. It’s another few minutes winding through the forest and past some seasonal ponds to the lakeshore. The lake is gorgeous and has a great waterfall coming in from Scarab Lake.

The shoreline of Egypt Lake
The shoreline of Egypt Lake. The peak on the left is The Sphinx and the one on the right is one of th Pharaoh Peaks
A waterfall obscured by trees flows into Egypt Lake
Close-up of the waterfall descending into Egypt Lake from Scarab Lake.

Scarab and Mummy Lakes

Distance: 7.1 km round-trip

Time: 3 to 4 hours

Elevation Gain: 500 m

See the map in the Egypt Lake section above to visualize this trail or view it in Gaia GPS.

Follow the trail from the campground to the Egypt Lake junction, but continue straight.

A hand-carved trail sign shows the way to Scarab Lake, Mummy Lake, and Whistling Pass
The junction is marked with an old pre-metric hand-made trail signs.

The trail climbs steeply on switchbacks beside scree slopes and through the forest. (Watch for adorable pikas in the rocks.) About 1.4 km from camp there is a good viewpoint on an open rock bluff.

Reach a junction 1.8 km from camp and go left, descending through patches of meadow to the shore of Scarab Lake. (The scarab beetle was an important symbol in ancient Egypt.) The lake has great views of Scarab Peak.

A hiker stands on the shore of Scarab Lake
Scarab Lake with Haiduk Peak

Continue along the lakeshore and cross the outlet stream. Detour a few meters east to see the waterfall feeding Egypt Lake.

Looking down from the top of the waterfall to Egypt Lake.
Looking down to Egypt Lake from the top of the waterfall.

Follow the trail uphill through larch forest, then beside a scree slope. Descend into a pocket of meadow.

Two hikers in an alpine meadow near Mummy Lake
Walking through a pocket of meadow on the way to Mummy Lake.

From there, follow cairns southwest uphill through rocks and rubble to the shore of Mummy Lake. You may have to do a bit of route-finding here to stay on track. Arrive at the lakeshore and enjoy the incredible turquoise lake and isolated moonscape setting.

A hiker stands near the shore of Mummy Lake.
Enjoying the views at Mummy Lake.

Pharaoh Peaks Scramble

Distance: 7.7 km round-trip

Time: 4 to 6 hours

Elevation Gain: 795 m

See the map in the Egypt Lake section above to visualize this trail or view it in Gaia GPS.

If you’ve seen incredible photos of the Egypt Lake area, they were likely taken from the Pharaoh Peak scramble. I was recovering from an ankle sprain on my trip, so I didn’t do the scramble, but two of my friends did. If you’re up for this scramble, I highly recommend it. It has by far the best views in the whole area.

To do this scramble, follow the trail from the campground to the Scarab Lake junction. Continue along the trail for another kilometre as it side hills through forest and patches of meadow. Just before Whistling Pass, turn right and leave the trail.

A hiker makes their way up the scramble route to Pharaoh Peaks
The start of the scramble route to Pharaoh Peaks. Photo: Brenda Remedios.

From here you will be on an unmarked and unmaintained route. It is steep, but there is no exposure. Follow an obvious gully up to a saddle. It is loose, but not technical. At the top of the gully, reach a saddle. Turn right and make your way through talus and boulders to the summit. The view is insane!

A hiker enjoys the view from the summit of Pharaoh Peaks
The insane view from the top. Photo: Brenda Remedios.

Pharaoh and Black Rock Lakes

Distance: 5 km round-trip

Time: 1.5 to 2 hours

Elevation Gain: 245 m

Map of the trail to Black Rock and Pharaoh Lakes
The hike to Pharaoh and Black Rock Lakes.

The trail to these two lakes seemed to be less trodden than the other lakes in the area. We had the whole area to ourselves!

To get there, head north from the campground cooking area on the Pharaoh Creek Trail. A few minutes after leaving the cooking area, turn left onto the Pharaoh Lake Trail. Follow it steeply uphill through the forest and then alongside a scree slope.

Hand-carved sign to Pharaoh and Black Rock Lakes
An old, hand-carved sign on the way to Pharaoh and Black Rock Lakes.

Arrive at the shore of Pharaoh Lake about 1.4 km from camp. The sheer face of Pharaoh Peak drops dramatically into the lake.

A hiker stands on a rock at Pharaoh Lake.
Pharaoh Lake
A man sits on a rock at Pharaoh Lake
Pharaoh Lake

Continue north along the lakeshore and back into the forest to the northwest to get to Black Rock Lake. The last few minutes of the trail follow a pretty little stream with lots of wildflowers. The black rock face of the northern Pharaoh Peak gives the lake its name.

Hikers walk next to a stream near Black Rock Lake
Wildflowers along the stream near Black Rock Lake.
Black Rock Lake
Black Rock Lake.

Egypt Lake Hiking Tips

Cooking Areas: The campground has a communal cooking area with three big picnic tables. It was nice to have a place to sit down each evening! But don’t hog the tables – they are for everyone to share. The cooking areas are separate from the tenting areas for bear safety. Please don’t eat or cook near your tent.

Food Storage: The campgrounds have metal food lockers for food storage. Each locker has a number which corresponds to the number posted at your tent pad. Use your numbered locker – it gets chaotic and confusing otherwise.

Mosquitos: Bugs can be bad in July and early August. Bring bug spray and a head net.

Bears: This is black and grizzly bear country. Bring bear spray, make noise while hiking, and store your food securely. See my bear safety tips for more info.

Check the weather before you go: The campground is at 2000 m and you have to crest a 2,260 m pass to get there. The entire area has fickle mountain weather. In July and August, the average high temperature is 21°C and the average low is 4°C. Sudden rain storms are common. Use an algorithmic spot forecast like Spotwx. (Read my guide to weather apps for hikers for more tips.)

Hikers wearing rain gear at Healy Pass
Hiking through Healy Pass in the pouring rain

Check trail conditions on the Banff National Park website. This is especially important in early summer or fall when the trail can be icy or snowy.

Check Sunshine Village opening hours if you plan to use the Sunshine gondola to get to the Simpson Pass route to Egypt Lake.

Off-trail travel is not allowed between Sunshine Meadows and Healy Pass on both the Simpson Pass and Healy Pass Trails. This rule is in place to protect grizzly bear habitat.

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Final Thoughts

Egypt Lake has been on my list for a few years and I’m glad we finally made it. The lakes were all so gorgeous and despite this being one of Banff’s bigger backcountry campgrounds, the trail and camp never felt crowded.

While my visit was great, it wasn’t enough. I’d love to go back and do the full traverse from Highway 93, finishing at Egypt Lake. I’d also like to come back in the fall for larch season – from the photos I’ve seen, Healy Pass is incredible once the larches turn golden in the fall.

Is there anything else you need to know about backpacking at Egypt Lake? If I missed something, ask in the comments. I’d love to help.

READ NEXT:

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Things to Do in Yoho National Park https://dawnoutdoors.com/things-to-do-in-yoho-national-park/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/things-to-do-in-yoho-national-park/#comments Thu, 12 Sep 2024 23:00:51 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=23396 For years I sped through Yoho National Park on Highway 1, in a hurry to get to Banff. From the road, the mountains were pretty but they didn’t entice me to stop. Oh how wrong I was! Once I finally got off the highway and saw all the things to do in Yoho National Park, …

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For years I sped through Yoho National Park on Highway 1, in a hurry to get to Banff. From the road, the mountains were pretty but they didn’t entice me to stop. Oh how wrong I was! Once I finally got off the highway and saw all the things to do in Yoho National Park, I was hooked.

On my first trip to Yoho, we drove up the narrow and winding Yoho Valley Road into the mountains. I was shocked when Takakkaw Falls came into sight – I couldn’t believe how tall it was. On later trips, I discovered more waterfalls, incredible blue glacial lakes, towering peaks, clean campgrounds, and well-signed hiking trails.

I keep coming back to Yoho over and over because it has so much to offer. I think I’ve been to Yoho four times in the past five years. Yes, it’s an easy pit stop on the drive to Banff. But I think Yoho really deserves more of your time.

I’ve put together a complete guide to things to do in Yoho National Park. It includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Yoho National Park Basics

Location

Yoho National Park is located in the Canadian Rockies. The park is about 1 hour west of the town of Banff, Alberta and 45 minutes east of the town of Golden, BC. The small town of Field is located inside the park. The park borders Banff National Park to the north and east and Kootenay National Park to the south.

How to Get to Yoho National Park

The closest airport to Yoho National Park is Calgary International Airport, which is a 2.5-hour drive away. It is possible to take a shuttle bus to the nearby town of Banff, about 1 hour away. However, there is no public transportation to the park – you will need to drive yourself or book a tour.

Getting Around in Yoho National Park

Unlike nearby Banff National Park, there is no public transportation in Yoho. The park is spread out along 60 kilometres of Highway 1 and several side roads. You will need to have your own car or join a tour group.

It’s easy to join a day tour leaving from Banff that hits Yoho’s highlights. This top-rated 8-hour tour visits Emerald Lake and Natural Bridge in Yoho along with Lake Louise and Moraine Lake in Banff. If you want to focus on Yoho, this popular Yoho National Park tour visits Emerald Lake, Takakkaw Falls, Natural Bridge, and the Spiral Tunnels viewpoint.

The easiest place to rent a car is in Calgary, but you can also rent a car in Banff. I use DiscoverCars to book rental cars since it lets you compare prices across rental companies.

Keep in mind that Emerald Lake and Takakkaw Falls (the most popular parts of the park) will be very busy in July and August. It can be impossible to find parking if you arrive in the middle of the day. Plan to arrive in the morning or early evening.

Yoho National Park Passes

You must purchase a Parks Canada pass to stop anywhere in Yoho National Park. Buy them at the Yoho Visitor Centre in Field, either at the desk or from the machine in the parking lot. You can also buy a Parks Canada Pass at the entrance gates to Banff National Park – the same pass is valid for Banff, Yoho, and Kootenay National Parks.

Parks passes cost $11/day for adults or $9.50 for seniors. Kids are free. The best deal is the family/group pass for $22/day which covers up to seven people travelling in the same vehicle.

If you plan to visit other Canadian National Parks in the same year or your trip is longer than one week, it’s worth buying a Parks Canada Discovery Pass which is valid at all National Parks for a full year. They cost $75.25/adult, $64.50/senior, or $151.25 for a group of up to 7 people in the same vehicle.

You will need to display your park pass on the dash of your car whenever you are parked in the park.

Cell Service in Yoho National Park

Most of the park doesn’t have cell service. There is reliable cell service in the town of Field and for a few kilometres of highway on either side. But otherwise, expect to be out of service. Download offline maps ahead of time.

How Long to Spend in Yoho National Park

If you don’t plan to do any hiking, it’s possible to see the park highlights like Emerald Lake and Takakkaw Falls in . You can visit Yoho as a day trip from Banff, and that’s a popular way to do it.

However, I think that Yoho has a lot to offer on its own and is worth a bit more time. I recommend spending at least two or three days in Yoho so you can explore at a slower pace and go on some hikes.

Best Time to Go to Yoho National Park

Since it is high in the mountains, Yoho National Park gets a lot of snow. The best time to visit the park is between July and mid-September. At that time of year, the park will be snow-free and all trails will be open. However, it’s worth checking trail conditions on the Yoho National Park page before you go.

Yoho National Park Weather

Yoho National Park has fickle mountain weather. In July and August, the average high temperature is 22°C and the average low is 5°C. Expect rain and clouds at any time – pack a rain jacket just in case. Use my picks for the Best Weather Apps for Hiking to see the forecast for your trip.

A man in a red jacket stands on the shores of Emerald Lake in the pouring rain.
Yoho is still gorgeous in the rain.

Groceries and Supplies in Yoho National Park

The town of Field is located inside the park. It has a gas station, two restaurants, and several guesthouses. However, it does not have a grocery store. The closest grocery stores are in Lake Louise, (25 minutes east), Banff (1 hour east), and Golden (45 minutes west).

Wildlife in Yoho National Park

Yoho National Park is in bear country (both black bears and grizzly bears). Carry bear spray, hike in a group, and make noise, especially in brushy areas. Keep your dog on a leash. Read my bear safety tips for hikers for more info.

You can also spot many other animals in the park including elk, moose, deer, mountain goats, big horn sheep, porcupines, pikas, and marmots. You will probably also see both Columbian and golden-mantled ground squirrels. Both species love to hang out at viewpoints begging for food from tourists. But please don’t give in – it’s terrible for their health and makes them aggressive.

Yoho National Park Map

To help you find your way around, I made this custom Google Map of Yoho National Park for you. It includes every single place I mention in this post. Keep in mind that there is no cell service in most of the park so you will need to download offline maps before you go.

Google Map of things to do in Yoho National Park
My map of things to do in Yoho National Park. Click to zoom in.

If you’re looking for a paper map, I recommend the Lake Louise and Yoho Map by Gem Trek Maps. It’s a waterproof map that shows all of the park trails, roads, and points of interest.

Things to Do in Yoho National Park

Yoho National Park Visitor Centre

The best place to start your trip is the Yoho National Park Visitor Centre. It is located at the entrance to the town of Field just off Highway 1. You can take a few minutes to explore the exhibits, and then ask staff questions to help plan your stay.

The Visitor Centre is also home to the Friends of Yoho National Park gift shop. This is by far the best official gift shop at any of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks. They have a good selection of t-shirts, hats, stickers, and other souvenirs. They also have an incredible book section with hiking books, nature field guides, history books, biographies, and more. I buy one almost every time I visit.

It’s also quite practical to visit the Visitor Centre. It has flush toilets and reliable cell phone service. You can also buy your park admission pass here, either at the desk when the centre is open or at the vending machine outside at any time.

Emerald Lake

With an amphitheatre of mountains and turquoise blue waters, Emerald Lake is so beautiful that it rivals the scenery at Lake Louise. Emerald Lake is the most popular attraction in Yoho National Park, so you will still find full parking lots and lots of people. But it attracts a fraction of the tourists that Lake Louise does, so it feels a bit more serene.

Emerald Lake and the Emerald Lake Lodge in Yoho National Park
Looking across to the Emerald Lake Lodge from the shoreline trail

The only way to get to Emerald Lake is to drive the nine-kilometre-long Emerald Lake Road, which leaves Highway 1 3 km west of Field. The road ends at a medium-sized parking area, which fills up by mid-morning. Plan to arrive early or come late in the day.

Once you arrive, wander down to the lakeshore to enjoy the scenery and take some photos. The area around the Emerald Lake Lodge has the best views.

You can also rent a canoe at the boathouse to paddle around the lake. While canoe rental prices are cheaper than at Lake Louise or Moraine Lake, it’s still really expensive. As of 2024, it is $100 per hour! You aren’t allowed to bring your own canoe, kayak, SUP, etc. to Emerald Lake because of the risk of whirling disease.

A red canoe on the turquoise waters of Emerald Lake
Canoeing on Emerald Lake. Photo: Reid Holmes

If you are up for a hike, you can follow the 5.2-km-long Emerald Lake Trail around the lake. The western half is easy and flat, but the eastern and southern sections are rooty and muddy. Allow about 2 hours for the full loop. There are also several challenging hiking trails leading up into the mountains around the lake.

A family sits on a bench along the Emerald Lake Trail
My friends taking a break on the Emerald Lake Trail.

If you’re hungry, you can eat at one of the restaurants at the Emerald Lake Lodge. Cilantro on the Lake is the most informal, but it’s still on the pricey side.

Natural Bridge

If you’re driving the Emerald Lake Road, don’t miss stopping at Natural Bridge on your way to or from the lake. The Kicking Horse River has eroded the rocks and rushing waters go through a natural stone bridge. From the small parking lot, you can follow paths to several viewpoints on both sides of the river.

This is one of my favourite spots in Yoho since it is such a cool feature. The river is constantly carving out a canyon. Originally, the river would have run over rocks to create a waterfall. But instead, it wore a hole through the rocks, creating a fissure that the water flows through.

Natural Bridge in Yoho National Park
Looking across to Natural Bridge from one of the viewing platforms

Takakkaw Falls

Besides Emerald Lake, Takakkaw Falls is probably the second-most visited spot in Yoho National Park. At 373 metres, it is one of the tallest waterfalls in Canada. (However, it is shorter than Della Falls on Vancouver Island.)

Morning mist on Takakkaw Falls with the Parks Canada red chairs in the foreground.
Morning mist at the red chairs at Takakkaw Falls. The trail to the base of the falls is across the bridge.

The easy walk to the falls is about 0.7 km each way. You’ll get great views of the falls along the trail as you get closer and closer. You may want to bring a rain jacket because the spray from the falls creates mist in the air that gets wetter and wetter the closer you get to the base of the falls.

The falls are at their fullest in June during the snowmelt, but they are still spectacular later in the summer and early fall.

Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park
There are great views of the falls all along the trail to the base.

The parking lot for Takakkaw Falls is located at the end of Yoho Valley Road, which is 13 km long. The road is closed due to avalanche danger between early October and mid-June. The road has several sharp switchbacks. Trailers are not allowed and vehicles over 7 metres (23 feet) may have to back up and do a multi-point turn to get around the corners.

The parking lot fills up by mid-morning. Go early or late in the day for the best chance of getting a parking spot.

Lake O’Hara

Lake O’Hara is a special place. It’s a glacier lake surrounded by towering mountains and garlanded with some of the best hiking trails in the Canadian Rockies. I’ve been there twice and I think it should be on every hiker’s bucket list… but there’s a catch.

View from Opabin Prospect at Lake O'Hara in Yoho National Park
View of Lake O’Hara from Obapin Prospect

The only way to get to the lake is via an 11-km-long gated road. You can book tickets on a shuttle bus that goes to the lake a few times a day, but it’s so popular that there is an annual lottery for tickets. You can also walk up the road to the lake, but that takes a few hours and gives you less time to hike at the lake.

Psst: If you didn’t get a ticket, I recommend signing up for Schnerp or Campnab. They will send you a text if a cancellation opens up so you can book it right away. My guide to Campnab and Schnerp has all the details.

Once you arrive at the lake, there are lots of gorgeous hiking options. The most popular choice is the Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit. This challenging loop links together paths along ledges high above the lake for some of the most breathtaking views you’ll ever see.

A hiker takes a break on the Yukness Ledges
Enjoying the view on the Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit.

Other beautiful hikes include Opabin Prospect, Lake Oesa, and Lake McArthur as well as the easy trail along the perimeter of Lake O’Hara.

Rock slabs above Lake Oesa in Yoho National Park
Rock slabs lead down to the shore of Lake Oesa

If you want to extend your visit, you can book a room at the luxury Lake O’Hara Lodge, a bunk at the rustic Elizabeth Parker Hut, or a campsite at the Lake O’Hara campground. However, all three options are very hard to book.

A hiker walks past the Elizabeth Parker Hut at Lake O'Hara
The Elizabeth Parker Hut

Visiting Lake O’Hara can be a bit complicated, so I’ve got a complete Lake O’Hara guide to explain it all. I also run the Lake O’Hara Facebook group, which is a great place to check trail conditions and read reports from other visitors.

Burgess Shale Fossils

Even if you aren’t into fossils, you’ll find the Burgess Shale fascinating. The mountains of Yoho National Park have a unique layer of shale rocks that holds fossils from 508 million years ago. It’s one of the oldest fossil beds in the world to preserve the soft bodies of organisms, not just their bones and teeth.

The fossilized creatures look fantastical – they have tons of legs, antennae, and strangely shaped bodies. And since they are so well preserved, you can see their eyes, brains, guts, and more.

There are several ways to see the Burgess Shale fossils in Yoho National Park. The easiest one is to visit the Burgess Shale exhibit at the Yoho Visitor Centre.

It’s also possible to see the fossils in situ in the mountains, however, the fossil sites are closed to the public so the only way to visit is on a guided hike. The hikes are run by Parks Canada and the Burgess Shale Geoscience Foundation and you must reserve in advance. Reservations open in late January each year, but they don’t sell out right away.

Hikers at the Walcott Quarry in Yoho National Park looking at Burgess Shale fossils
Looking at Burgess Shale fossils on a guided tour of the Walcott Quarry

There are three different guided hikes to choose from: a shorter one rated moderate and two longer ones rated difficult. I did the most difficult one to Walcott Quarry a few years ago. It was a tough hike but parts of it had great views. Visiting the fossil quarry was really cool and we got to see lots of interesting fossils. Our guide also spent lots of time explaining the geology of the fossil beds and the local mountains.

Town of Field

The tiny town of Field is a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of Banff. While the town used to have a larger population, today it’s home to less than 200 people. The town was built to serve the railroad and several mines which have long since closed.

Historic building in the town of Field, BC
Historic buildings in Field. The grey building in the middle used to be a general store but these days it is a pottery studio.
Historic house in Field, BC
The historic Park Superintendent’s House in Field. Photo: Reid Holmes.

It’s worth stopping in Field to wander around and look at some of the historic buildings. If you want the inside scoop, I really recommend the historic walking tours of town. Volunteers from the Friends of Yoho National Park lead the tours every Tuesday and Thursday night during the summer. Tours are free, but donations to Friends of Yoho are appreciated.

I was lucky enough to have Michale Lang, the former curator of the Whyte Museum in Banff as my guide. She told us lots of great stories about the history of Field. Instead of just a repetition of dates and events, she told us stories about the town’s residents through time.

Field is also a great place to stop for food. The town has two restaurants. The Siding Cafe is an informal lunch spot serving sandwiches and coffee. Unfortunately, they don’t have much indoor seating, so on rainy days you might have to get takeout. The other option is Truffle Pigs Bistro, which is a bit more high-end but gets great reviews. It doesn’t take reservations, so unfortunately, I wasn’t able to eat there. Next time!

The exterior of the Siding Cafe in Field, BC
The Siding Cafe.

Spiral Tunnels

I’m not into trains, but I still found the engineering behind the Spiral Tunnels really interesting. Building a railway across Canada was a condition of BC joining Canada. However, getting through the Rocky Mountains was really challenging for trains due to the steep terrain.

The first tracks through Kicking Horse Pass in Yoho National Park were so steep that the first train to try it in 1884 derailed, killing three people. Instead, the railway engineers used a Swiss solution – they drilled two spiral-shaped tunnels, one into the rocks of Mount Ogden and another into Cathedral Mountain.

There are two places to see the Spiral Tunnels in Yoho National Park. The easiest one is the Upper Spiral Tunnel Viewpoint on Highway 1. If you time it right, you can see both the front and back ends of a train as it goes through the tunnel. It also has lots of info boards.

A train goes through the spiral tunnels in Yoho National Park
Watching a train going into the Spiral Tunnels from the upper viewpoint.

You can also see the tunnels from the Lower Spiral Tunnel viewpoint in the first few minutes of the drive up the Yoho Valley Road.

It can be hard to picture how the spiral tunnels work. Thankfully, there are scale models of the tunnels at the Upper Spiral Tunnels Viewpoint and at the Yoho Visitor Centre. The one at the Visitor Centre has model trains that run!

Iceline Trail

If you’re a hiker, you can’t miss the Iceline Trail. It’s the most spectacular trail in Yoho National Park. The path climbs steeply through the forest on switchbacks with views of Takakkaw Falls across the valley. Then it emerges from the trees and the views begin.

Three hikers with large backpacking packs on the Iceline Trail (part of the Yoho Valley Loop) in Yoho National Park. They are walking through a rocky landscape with glaciers on the mountain behind them.
Backpackers on the Iceline Trail.

The hike starts at the Takakkaw Falls parking lot on Yoho Valley Road. You’ll walk through rocks and past turquoise ponds as glaciers hang from the slopes above and you gaze at the peaks across the Yoho Valley. There are lots of great viewpoints to stop and take photos.

A hiker admires the view of Takakkaw Falls from the lower slopes of the Iceline Trail
Enjoying one of the many views of Takakkaw Falls on the ascent. Photo: Reid Holmes

There are several ways to hike the Iceline. Most people do it as a loop via the Little Yoho Valley (20.8 km) or via Celeste Lake (17.5 km). You can also do it as an out-and-back hike to the trail’s high point (15 km). All options have 700 to 800 m of elevation gain. Expect the hike to take all day.

Another option is to include the Iceline Trail in a longer backpacking trip. That way you only can take your time and enjoy the Iceline since you’ll only have to hike 11.4 km from Takakkaw Falls to your campsite in the Little Yoho Valley.

I hiked the Iceline as part of the Yoho Valley Loop, a spectacular backpacking trip that also includes the other highlights in this part of the park like Laughing Falls, Twin Falls, and the Whaleback Trail. (More about those below.)

Laughing Falls

If you want an easy day hike in the Yoho Valley, head to 30-metre-high Laughing Falls. The 7.8-kilometre round-trip is fairly flat – it gains just 125 metres. The trail follows the Yoho River and passes two other waterfalls along the way. Allow two to three hours for the hike.

Laughing Falls in Yoho National Park
Laughing Falls

Twin Falls

Twin Falls is another great hike in the Yoho Valley. The two ribbons of the falls plunge 120 metres down the cliffs. If you are exploring around the base, put on your rain jacket – there is a lot of spray!

Twin Falls in Yoho National Park
Twin Falls

It’s also worth visiting the Twin Falls Chalet nearby. There is a great view of the falls from the front porch. This historic building dates back to 1923 and used to serve tea and meals to hikers. It’s been closed since 2019, but it may reopen since the Alpine Club of Canada now has a license to run it.

The Twin Falls Chalet in Yoho National Park
The Twin Falls Chalet is closed but still worth a quick visit.

To get to Twin Falls, you continue along the Yoho Valley Trail from Laughing Falls. It’s a 16.4 km round-trip hike to the falls from Takakkaw Falls parking lot with 300 m of elevation gain. Allow 4 to 6 hours.

Whaleback Trail

While it doesn’t get as much buzz as other hikes in the Yoho Valley, the Whaleback Trail takes in some incredible scenery. The trail climbs steeply high above the valley floor over the shoulder of Whaleback Mountain. Next, it descends past the top of Twin Falls before plunging down to the bottom of the falls on a set of steep switchbacks.

A hiker at the Whaleback Viewpoint in the Yoho Valley
Looking north from the Whaleback viewpoint to the Yoho Glacier. Photo: Reid Holmes.
A hiker on the Whaleback Trail
Hiking the Whaleback Trail

You can hike the Whaleback Trail as a 21.3 km loop from the Takakkaw Falls parking lot. This route includes 520 m of elevation gain and takes about 7 hours. You can also visit the Whaleback Trail as part of a backpacking trip in the Yoho Valley.

Sherbrooke Lake

The moderate hike to Sherbrooke Lake is a good option if you have more time in the park and want to explore outside the Yoho Valley and Emerald Lake areas. The 6.2 km round trip hike gains just 165 m and ends at a beautiful turquoise glacier lake with Mount Ogden towering overhead.

Two hikers sit on a log at Sherbrooke Lake in the Canadian Rockies
Sherbrooke Lake. Photo: Reid Holmes.

The hike takes about 2 hours, but I recommend combining it with Paget Lookout (below) since they share the same trailhead. The two trails split apart at a fork about 1.5 km from the parking lot. If you combine both Sherbrooke Lake and Paget Lookout, the total distance is 11 km with 695 m of elevation gain. The combined hike takes 3.5 to 5 hours.

Paget Lookout and Paget Peak

Paget Lookout is an old fire lookout with an incredible view of the mountains in the Kicking Horse Valley and the Great Divide. For decades, a fire watcher would live here each summer, trying to spot forest fires. These days the lookout is preserved as a historical structure.

The historic fire lookout at Paget Lookout in Yoho National Park
The historic Paget Lookout. Photo: Reid Holmes.
View from Paget Lookout
The view from Paget Lookout

The hike to the lookout is steep, but only moderately challenging thanks to lots of well-graded switchbacks. It’s 7 km round-trip with 520 m of elevation gain and takes 2.5 to 3 hours.

The official trail ends at the lookout, but you can continue to the summit of Paget Peak via an informal scramble route. The route to the summit is 9.5 km long with 960 m of elevation gain. It takes 4 to 6 hours.

The scramble route is not technical – it is mostly walking on rock slabs and scree. There are a few cairns to mark the route, but for the most part, you will have to find your own way to the top.

A hiker stands on the summit of Paget Peak
My friend on the summit of Paget Peak. Photo: Reid Holmes.
The view from Paget Peak
Looking down to Sherbrooke Lake and the Kicking Horse Valley (far left) from the summit of Paget Peak. Photo: Reid Holmes

Wapta Falls

Wapta Falls on the Kicking Horse River isn’t that tall at only 30 metres high, but it is very wide – it’s over 100 metres from side to side. The falls are on the less visited western side of the park 26 km west of Field, so it can be a bit quieter here.

It’s a 4.6 km round-trip hike to the falls with 30 metres of elevation gain. Plan to spend about 1.5 hours on the hike.

Wapta Falls in Yoho National Park
Wapta Falls. Photo: Izanbar/Deposit Photos

Backcountry Camping

Going backcountry camping is my favourite thing to do in Yoho National Park. The two main places to do it are at Lake O’Hara and in the Yoho Valley. The two experiences are polar opposites.

At Lake O’Hara, you take a shuttle bus into a well-equipped campground with kitchen shelters, running water, a communal fire pit, and a washroom building with pit toilets. From the campground, you can take day hikes around the lake or to spectacular viewpoints. As far as backcountry camping goes, it’s pretty luxurious.

The campground at Lake O'Hara in Yoho National Park
The campground at Lake O’Hara. On the left is one of the cooking shelters. You can also see the bathroom building with its covered porch and dishwashing sinks.

In the Yoho Valley, you can hike into four backcountry campgrounds: Laughing Falls, Twin Falls, Little Yoho Valley, and Twin Falls. The hike to Laughing Falls is fairly easy, but the rest are moderate to difficult. From the campgrounds, you can do spectacular hikes like the Iceline, Whaleback, and Twin Falls.

You can also combine several of the campgrounds to complete the Yoho Valley Loop. I hiked this route on my last trip to Yoho and I was blown away by the views around every corner.

An orange tent at Little Yoho Camp in the Yoho National Park backcountry. You can see sun-dappled mountains in the background across a river.
My campsite at Little Yoho Camp.

Where to Stay in Yoho National Park

Compared to nearby Banff, there aren’t that many places to stay in Yoho National Park. However, it’s worth spending a night or two in the park so that you don’t have to commute an hour each way from Banff.

Yoho National Park Hotels

Charlie’s Guest House: One of the many guesthouses in the town of Field, Charlie’s has suites with kitchens, gets great reviews, and is half a block from Truffle Pig’s Bistro. Check rates.

Cathedral Mountain Lodge: This luxury lodge on the Kicking Horse River near Field has log cabins with fireplaces. The main lodge building has incredible views and a high-end dining room. Check rates.

Emerald Lake Lodge: A classic Rocky Mountain hotel with huge stone fireplaces and cabin-style buildings. It’s a great place to stay to get Emerald Lake to yourself in the mornings and evenings. Check rates.

Whiskey Jack Hostel: Located near Takakkaw Falls, this basic hostel is a great place to stay if you are on a budget. Unfortunately, it is currently closed for repairs.

The green waters of Emerald Lake are one of the best things to do in Yoho National Park
Emerald Lake Lodge

Camping in Yoho National Park

Yoho National Park has four campgrounds. Two of them (Kicking Horse and Takakkaw) require reservations. Reservations open in late January and early February and book up fast.

However, cancellations are common so you might be able to get a last-minute site. I recommend using a cancellation app like Campnab or Schnerp to notify you when cancellations come up. I was able to score nights at both Kicking Horse and Takakkaw Falls that way on my recent trip. My guide to camping cancellation apps has more details on how it works.

Reservable Campgrounds

Kicking Horse Campground: This is Yoho’s most popular campground. It has 88 sites and has flush toilets and showers. It has a great location at the start of Yoho Valley Road but it can be a bit noisy from the nearby highway and train. Check availability.

Tent under a tarp at Kicking Horse Campground in Yoho National Park.
Some of the campsites at Kicking Horse have incredible views of Cathedral Mountain, like this one my friends scored. But they don’t have any shade.
An orange tent at Kicking Horse Campground
And some of the sites at Kicking Horse are forested. I lucked out with this one next to Monarch Creek.

Takakkaw Falls Campground: This is a walk-in campground with 44 small sites, but an incredible location at the base of Takakkaw Falls at the end of Yoho Valley Road. It’s a 5 to 10-minute walk from the parking lot and there are wheelbarrows to help carry your gear. The campground has running water, pit toilets, and animal-proof storage for your food. Check availability.

Tent at the Takakkaw Falls Campground
A few of the sites at Takakkaw Falls campground have views of the falls. As you can see, the sites are small.

First-Come, First-Served Campgrounds

Monarch Campground: Since this 35-site campground is first-come, first-served, it’s good for last-minute trips – but you’ll need to arrive early in the day to get a spot. Monarch is next to Kicking Horse Campground on Yoho Valley Road, but it does get a lot of highway noise. It has running water and pit toilets.

Hoodoo Creek Campground: Find this campground in the quiet western part of the park. It’s close to Wapta Falls but about 20 minutes from Field. The 30 sites here are first-come, first-served and have pit toilets. You need to bring your own water.

Final Thoughts

Yoho National Park is a bit under the radar compared to Banff, its more famous next-door neighbour. But I find myself returning to Yoho over and over for the spectacular scenery, interesting history, and less crowded trails.

If you’re planning to visit the Canadian Rockies, you can’t miss Yoho. You might be tempted to do it as a day trip from Banff. But I think you’ll find so many things to do in Yoho National Park that it’s worth spending two or three days here.

If you have questions about visiting Yoho National Park, ask them in the comments and I’ll help you out.

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Backpacking the Yoho Valley Loop/Iceline Trail https://dawnoutdoors.com/yoho-valley-loop-iceline-trail/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/yoho-valley-loop-iceline-trail/#comments Wed, 04 Sep 2024 23:43:52 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=23419 The Yoho Valley in Yoho National Park is a special place. In the Cree language, “Yoho” is an expression of wonder or awe. It pretty much means “wow!” And while it sounds cheesy, that’s what I kept saying when I spent three days backpacking the Yoho Valley Loop including the Iceline Trail. I had been …

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The Yoho Valley in Yoho National Park is a special place. In the Cree language, “Yoho” is an expression of wonder or awe. It pretty much means “wow!” And while it sounds cheesy, that’s what I kept saying when I spent three days backpacking the Yoho Valley Loop including the Iceline Trail.

I had been to the valley before to see spectacular Takakkaw Falls, but I wasn’t prepared for how gorgeous the rest of the valley is. The whole valley is rimmed with glacier-capped peaks. The steep terrain means there are lots of waterfalls. And the well-built trails take you to tons of incredible viewpoints.

The Yoho Valley Loop is not an official trail – instead, it is a collection of trails that make a circular route that takes in all of the highlights in the valley. It includes the classic Iceline Trail as well as the Whaleback and Twin Falls.

I’m a hiking guidebook author and have backpacked all over BC and the Canadian Rockies. I hiked this route over three days in late August and was blown away by the beauty – and trust me, I’ve been to some gorgeous places!

My guide to backpacking the Yoho Valley and Iceline Trail includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

A hiker enjoys the view on the Iceline Trail
Enjoying the views on the Iceline Trail. Photo: Reid Holmes.

Yoho Valley Loop Quick Facts

Trail Overview: The loop strings together the Iceline, Little Yoho Valley, Whaleback, and Yoho Valley Trails in Yoho National Park to create a route that hits all the highlights in this part of the park. There are five campgrounds and one backcountry hut along the route.

Distance: 29.4 km loop (But there are options to make it longer or shorter)

Elevation Gain: 1,430 m (But there are options with less elevation gain)

Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging. Most of the trail is moderate but there are challenging ascents and descents on the Iceline and Whaleback sections.

Duration: 2 to 4 days.

Best Time to Go: Mid-July to mid-September when the trail is snow-free.

Yoho Valley Weather: Most of the trail is above 2000m on the Continental Divide and has fickle mountain weather. In July and August, the average high temperature is 22°C and the average low is 5°C. Thunderstorms are common. Use my picks for the Best Weather Apps for Hiking to see the forecast for your trip.

Reservations and Costs: You must make reservations. You must also pay National Park entry fees, backcountry camping fees, and a reservation fee. More details are in the reservations and costs sections below.

A hiker descends the Whaleback Trail in the Yoho Valley
Descending the Whaleback Trail.

What to Bring: This is a remote hiking trip, so you will need to bring typical backpacking gear. Use my backpacking checklist to make sure you have everything you need.

Wildlife: The trail is in bear country (both black bears and grizzly bears). Carry bear spray, hike in a group, and make noise, especially in brushy areas. Use campground cooking areas and store all your food and toiletries on the food storage poles. Read my bear safety tips for backpackers for more info.

Dogs: Allowed on leash.

Fires: Not allowed in the backcountry.

Indigenous Context: The Yoho Valley is in the traditional territory of the Tsuut’ina, Blackfoot/Niitsítapi, Stoney Nakoda, Ktunaxa, Secwépemc, and Métis. Before Europeans arrived, the nearby Kicking Horse Valley was an important travel and trading corridor. The government forced Indigenous people to leave when Yoho National Park was created in 1886 and prohibited them from accessing their traditional territory to hunt, fish, gather, and conduct cultural practices. Today, the park works with several Indigenous groups to facilitate park access for traditional, ceremonial, and cultural activities including harvesting.

Yoho Valley Loop/Iceline Trail Map and Elevation Profile

The trails in the Yoho Valley are well-marked and easy to navigate with signs at all junctions. If you want a paper map, the Lake Louise and Yoho Map from Gem Trek is the best one.

I used the Gaia GPS app on my hike. It was helpful to know where I was on the trail to figure out how much higher I had to climb and where the next campsite or landmark was. All Trails+ is also great.

I also made you a trail map using Gaia GPS. Click through to zoom in and explore. You can also save it to your routes in Gaia GPS or export the gpx file.

Map of the Yoho Valley Loop including the Iceline and Whaleback Trails
I made you this map of the Yoho Valley Loop. The main route is in red and the alternates are orange. Click the map to zoom in and explore in Gaia GPS.
Elevation profile for the Yoho Valley Loop backpacking trip
Elevation profile for the Yoho Valley Loop from Gaia GPS

How to Get to the Yoho Valley

The Yoho Valley is located in Yoho National Park in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. The trailhead is at the end of Yoho Valley Road near Takakkaw Falls, which is 13 km from Highway 1 near the small town of Field, BC.

The trailhead is 35 minutes from Lake Louise, Alberta in the east or 1 hour from Golden, BC in the west. There is no public transportation to the trailhead so you will need to drive yourself. It may be possible to get a taxi from Lake Louise, Banff or Golden, but it will be expensive. Here are Google Maps driving directions.

The parking lot has a designated section at the north end for campers. However, it is not big enough so you may have to park in the main parking lot. As well, the parking lots here can get very busy in the middle of the day since it’s where you park to visit Takakkaw Falls. There is additional overflow parking along Yoho Valley Road near the turn-off to the Whiskey Jack Hostel.

Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park
Spectacular Takakkaw Falls is just 10 minutes from the parking lot.

If you want to stay overnight nearby before your trip, you can book a walk-in campsite at Takakkaw Falls Campground near the trailhead or a drive-in campsite at Kicking Horse Campground near the start of Yoho Valley Road. I stayed at Takakkaw Falls before my trip and Kicking Horse after (because it has showers!)

The Whiskey Jack Hostel is also next to the trailhead, but it is currently closed for repairs with no announced re-opening date.

You can also stay in a hotel in nearby Field, BC (25 min from the trailhead). Charlie’s Guesthouse gets great reviews. If you want to splurge, Cathedral Mountain Lodge is mountain luxury at its best.

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Yoho Valley Loop/Iceline Trail Reservations

Backcountry Camping Reservations

While backcountry campgrounds in Yoho National Park aren’t as competitive as some in nearby Banff National Park, advance reservations are required.

Reservations for the entire summer season open in January or February each year. In 2025, reservations open on January 26, 2026, at 8 a.m. Mountain Time. You must book on the Parks Canada Reservations website.

See my tips for booking backcountry camping for pointers on how to navigate the site. Be ready to book as soon as reservations open as popular dates will sell out in minutes.

You need to book each campsite when you make your reservation. Prepare a couple of different itinerary options and dates. (Use my suggested itineraries below.)

Your booking can include up to 10 people and up to 3 tent pads on the same reservation. Keep in mind that you are only allowed to have one tent per tent pad.

To make a reservation you will need to select the “Backcountry Zone” button and then “Banff, Kootenay, and Yoho” from the drop-down. Your access point is “Takakkaw Falls Trailhead”.

Have the following info ready to go when you make your Yoho Valley Loop/Iceline reservation:

  • preferred itinerary with campgrounds and dates as well as backups
  • number of tent pads and people you are booking for
  • credit card

If you didn’t get a reservation, keep checking back as people cancel and spots open up. A more efficient way is to sign up for a camping cancellation notification app like Campnab or Schnerp. Read my guide to camping cancellation apps to find out how they work and which one I recommend.

A tent under a tarp at a backcountry campground in Yoho National Park
Backcountry camping at Little Yoho Valley Camp. Photo: Reid Holmes.

Stanley Mitchell Hut Reservations

Reservations are required to stay in the Stanley Mitchell Hut. (More info on the hut in the trail description below.) You must make reservations on the Alpine Club of Canada website. ACC members can make reservations up to 180 days in advance. Non-members can make reservations up to 90 days in advance.

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Yoho Valley Loop Fees

You must pay a few different fees to hike the Yoho Valley Loop. The cost breakdown is as follows:

  • Backcountry camping reservation fee: $11.50 per booking (for up to 10 people and up to 3 tent pads)
  • Backcountry camping fee: $13.50/person/night
  • Yoho/Banff/Kootenay National Parks entry fee: $11/person/day (or $22 per car/day with up to 7 people)
  • Stanley Mitchell Hut fee: $60/person/night for ACC members or $70/person/night for non-members

Most people hike the Yoho Valley/Iceline in three days/two nights and stay in backcountry campgrounds. In that case, a solo hiker would pay $71.50. Per-person costs decrease if you hike in a group since you can share the expense of reservation and national park entry fees.

Yoho Valley Loop/Iceline Trail Description

Which Direction to Hike?

When I was researching this trip, I debated which direction to hike. Either way, you have some steep climbs and descents. In the end, we decided to start with the Iceline Trail at the south end of the loop and work our way around clockwise. That way you get the hardest climb out of the way first.

You can definitely do the loop counter-clockwise, which means a more gradual ascent on the first day but a brutal knee-mashing descent on the last day. Pick your poison!

Since I went clockwise, that’s the way I will lay out the trail description below.

Takakkaw Falls Trailhead to Yoho Lake Camp Junctions via the Iceline Trail

Distance: 3.3 km

Time: 1 to 2 hours

Elevation Gain: 445 m

Elevation Loss: 0 m

Alternative Route: Add 4.5 km if you head south to Yoho Lake Camp along the Highline Trail

The route starts from the Takakkaw Falls Parking lot. Head south on the wide paved trail along the Yoho River for a few minutes. When you reach the bridge and a view of the falls, don’t cross it towards Takakkaw Falls. Instead, head right on the gravel trail that goes up a small rise.

Morning mist on Takakkaw Falls with the Parks Canada red chairs in the foreground.
Morning mist at the red chairs at Takakkaw Falls. To start the Iceline Trail, go straight here. Don’t follow the trail over the bridge.

Follow the trail through the forest and then out into an open area. Cross the Yoho Valley Road about 0.8 km from the start and follow the driveway for the Whiskey Jack Hostel to a sign for the Iceline Trail about 100 m away.

From here, the trail begins to climb steeply through lots of short switchbacks. The path stays in the forest, but there are occasional peek-a-boo views of Takakkaw Falls.

Hikers on a steep portion of the Iceline Trail in the forest.
The first section of the Iceline Trail climbs steeply through the forest. Photo: Reid Holmes.
A hiker admires the view of Takakkaw Falls from the lower slopes of the Iceline Trail
Enjoying one of the many views of Takakkaw Falls on the ascent. Photo: Reid Holmes

Reach a junction with the spur trail to Hidden Lakes (some unremarkable marshy ponds) about 2 km from the start.

Keep climbing and intersect junctions with the Highline Trail at 2.2 km and 3.3 km. Both branches of this trail lead south to Yoho Lake Camp, an alternative camping location. It’s 2.4 km to the camp via the lower branch and 2.1 km via the upper branch.

Yoho Lake Camp

Yoho Lake is small and is below the treeline in mixed forest and subalpine meadow. It is famous as the location of the first-ever mountaineering camp for the Alpine Club of Canada in 1906, but otherwise, it’s not a major destination. However, it does have a pair of iconic Parks Canada red chairs and a great view of Mount Wapta.

Yoho Lake Camp has cleared dirt tent pads, an outhouse, and a cooking area with picnic tables and food storage poles. Collect water from the lake.

Yoho Lake Camp Junction to Little Yoho Camp via the Iceline Trail

Distance: 8.1 km

Time: 4 to 5 hours

Elevation Gain: 428 m

Elevation Loss: 295 m

Alternative Routes: Skip Little Yoho Valley Camp/Stanley Mitchell Hut via the Celeste Lake Trail. From the top of the Celeste Lake Trail, you can take the Whaleback Trail (11.5 km) or Marpole Lake Trail (8.4 km) to Twin Falls Camp or the Little Yoho Valley Trail to Laughing Falls Camp (6.1 km).

Continuing on from the upper Highline Trail junction you’ll still be climbing, but it’s a bit more gentle. As well, the trees start to melt away and you will start to appreciate the open terrain of the Iceline.

Hikers on the Iceline Trail in Yoho National Park as they approach the treeline
The view open up as you break out above the treeline.

Look across the valley to Takakkaw Falls and the Wapta Icefield. The rocky summits of Michael Peak, The President, and The Vice President loom above you to the west. Below them, pockets of the Emerald Glacier gleam in the sunlight and gush meltwater down the slopes.

Hikers on the Iceline Trail walk below glaciers.
Walking below the glaciers on the first section of the Iceline Trail. Photo: Reid Holmes.

The next section of the trail treats you to some of the most spectacular scenery in the entire Yoho Valley. Pass the first of several turquoise blue glacial tarns about 5.3 km from the start. These tarns and their meltwater streams are good places to refill your water bottles. However, be sure to filter or treat your water – you never know if people or animals have pooped upstream. I use a Katadyn BeFree filter.

A glacial tarn on the Iceline Trail
One of the gorgeous tarns along the Iceline Trail.

The streams do not have bridges. Sometimes you may be able to rock hop across, especially later in the summer. But earlier in the year be prepared to ford – bring sandals or Crocs to keep your boots dry.

A hiker rock hops across a creek on the Iceline Trail
Rock hopping across one of the creeks on the Iceline Trail. Photo: Reid Holmes.

There are tons of good photo opportunities in this section and it felt like we stopped a thousand times to take pics. One of the best places is a short spur trail to a viewpoint along a glacial mound.

A hiker poses for a photo at a viewpoint on the Iceline Trail
Enjoying the views across the Yoho Valley from the spur trail. Photo: Reid Holmes.
View of glaciers along the Iceline Trail in the Yoho Valley
Looking back along the Iceline Trail to the glaciers.

About 6.6 km from the trailhead reach a junction near another lake. Your route along the Iceline continues straight. But if want to head directly to Twin Falls Camp or Laughing Falls, you can take the alternate route to the right on the Celeste Lake Trail.

Hikers walk next to turquoise lakes on the Iceline Trail
Continuing along the Iceline Trail from the Celeste Lake Trail junction.

Continue along the Iceline Trail, climbing gently past two lakes to the Iceline Summit 7.5 km from the start. Follow a short steep side trail to the top of a mound of glacial till for an incredible view of the Yoho Valley.

Hikers descending from the Iceline Summit.
Descending from the Iceline Summit and looking towards the Glacier des Pollus.

From here, it’s all (mostly) downhill to camp. Stay on the Iceline Trail as it works its way through more gravel and past a final turquoise lake. Climb a small hill (which will feel tough since you’ll be mentally done with elevation gain), and then follow the trail as it makes a left and descends into the forest.

The trail parallels the gravel slopes for a little bit before diving downhill on a series of steep switchbacks that lessen as you lose elevation. At the bottom, cross the Little Yoho River on a wooden bridge and arrive at the Stanley Mitchell Hut 11.1 km from the trailhead. If you are camping at Little Yoho Camp, turn left at the hut and hike another 0.4 km west up the valley to the campground.

Hikers cross the bridge over the Little Yoho River near the Stanley Mitchell Hut
Crossing the Little Yoho River near the Stanley Mitchell Hut
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Stanley Mitchell Hut

The Stanley Mitchell Hut is a rustic self-catering backcountry hut run by the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC). It has a propane cooking stove and lighting. The hut sleeps 22 people in bunk beds and includes mattresses. There is an outhouse nearby and you can collect water from a creek.

The hut was built in 1940 and is a federal heritage building. It is named after Stanley Mitchell, one of the founding members of the Alpine Club of Canada and its Secretary-Treasurer for several decades.

The exterior of the Stanley Mitchell Hut in the Little Yoho Valley near the Iceline Trail
The Stanley Mitchell Hut

Little Yoho Camp

Little Yoho Camp sits at the end of the Little Yoho Valley Trail next to the Little Yoho River.

There are two outhouses at the entrance to the campground.

There are no formal tent pads – instead, there are about ten clearings in the forest and meadow. Some of the clearings are a bit rooty or sloped, but a few have good views of the river. I found it a bit frustrating to find a campsite here since it wasn’t clear which campsites were official and which were not. (And the unofficial campsites were eroding the fragile meadows.)

There is a designated cooking area with picnic tables and poles with pulleys for food storage. Collect water from the Little Yoho River.

If you have energy for a day hike, you can follow a faint trail on the other side of the river up to Kiwetinok Pass and Kiwetinok Lake about 2.8 km away. The route is steep and only sporadically marked with cairns.

An orange tent at Little Yoho Camp in the Yoho National Park backcountry. You can see sun-dappled mountains in the background across a river.
My campsite at Little Yoho Camp.

Little Yoho Valley Camp to Twin Falls Camp via the Whaleback

Distance: 11.1 km

Time: 4.5 to 7 hours

Elevation Gain: 463 m

Elevation Loss: 870 m

Alternative Routes: If you want to skip the Whaleback, follow the Marpole Lake Trail to Twin Falls Camp (7.5 km) or the Little Yoho Valley Trail to Laughing Falls Camp (5.2 km).

From Little Yoho Valley Camp, hike back downstream past the Stanley Mitchell Hut. Continue following the trail as it descends next to the Little Yoho River for the next three kilometres.

Hikers following the Little Yoho Valley Trail
Hiking downstream along the Little Yoho Valley Trail. Photo: Reid Holmes

Reach a pair of junctions 14.8 km from the trailhead. Go left at the second junction to begin your ascent of the Whaleback. (If you want to skip the Whaleback, continue straight to head to Twin Falls Camp via the Marpole Lake Trail or directly to Laughing Falls.)

The Whaleback Trail has unrelentingly steep switchbacks. The path ascends through sparse forest and scree, so it is open to the sun. After about 30 switchbacks, reach your high point on the shoulder of Whaleback Mountain.

Hikers climb switchbacks on the Whaleback Trail in Yoho National Park
Climbing the switchbacks on the Whaleback Trail. Photo: Reid Holmes.

There is a surprisingly large plateau here at the edge of the ridge – be sure to wander around to take in the views south towards the Iceline and north into the heart of the Yoho Valley.

A hiker at the Whaleback Viewpoint in the Yoho Valley
Looking north from the Whaleback viewpoint to the Yoho Glacier. Photo: Reid Holmes.
Looking across to the Iceline from the Whaleback viewpoint.
Looking across to the Iceline from the Whaleback viewpoint.

From the high point, the trail descends gradually through open forest and patches of meadow. It’s a sharp contrast to the bare rocks and gravel of the Iceline Trail.

A hiker walks through a meadow on the Whaleback Trail in Yoho National Park
Descending through the meadows on the Whaleback Trail.

Reach the Whaleback Bridge over Twin Falls Creek about 18.2 km from the trailhead. This bridge is only in place seasonally – check trail conditions online in early and late summer to be sure it is in place. If it is not, the crossing is impassible due to dangerously high water.

Hikers crossing the Whaleback Bridge in Yoho National Park.
Crossing the Whaleback Bridge. Photo: Reid Holmes.

The bridge makes a great spot for a break. Follow faint trails along the side of the creek to look down at the top of Twin Falls, but be careful – it’s a very long way down the sheer cliff!

Looking down from the top of Twin Falls
Looking down from the top of Twin Falls. You can see the Twin Falls Chalet through the trees.

When you are finished at the top of the falls, continue along the trail as it makes a slow rising traverse to avoid some impassable cliffs. About one km after the falls, the trail swings right and starts to steeply switchback down the slope. The terrain is steep and a little bit loose in places – the original trail builders must have been mountain goats to find this route!

Hikers descending the Whaleback Trail
Descending the switchbacks on the Whaleback Trail. Photo: Reid Holmes.

The grade starts to ease about halfway down as you hike through thick forest with lots of huckleberry bushes.

Arrive at a junction 20.7 km from the start. Turn right to follow a spur trail to the base of Twin Falls. The twin ribbons of the falls drop 120 metres down the cliffs. The base gets a lot of spray so you might want to put your rain jacket on.

Hikers explore the base of Twin Falls
The up-close view of Twin Falls. Photo: Reid Holmes.

After enjoying the falls, backtrack to the junction and continue to Twin Falls Chalet 100 m away. Built in 1923, this building is a National Historic Site of Canada.

For decades Fran Drummond ran a teahouse and lodge for hikers here. Her last season was in 2019 and the tea house has sat vacant ever since. The Alpine Club of Canada was awarded a licence to run the tea house in 2022, but so far, they haven’t reopened. Even if the teahouse isn’t open, it’s worth a quick visit to see this cool old log building.

The Twin Falls Chalet in Yoho National Park
The Twin Falls Chalet is closed but still worth a quick visit.

From the tea house, continue along the Yoho Valley Trail towards Twin Falls Campground. (Don’t take the Marpole Lake trail over the bridge – it leads back to the Little Yoho Valley.)

The trail descends gradually through the forest, often within earshot of the rushing waters of Twin Falls Creek. Reach the Twin Falls Campground on the banks of the creek 22.5 km from the trailhead.

Twin Falls Camp

Twin Falls Camp is set on a gravel bar on the north side of Twin Falls Creek. The campsites are along a trail in the forest just back from the creek. There are no designated tent pads, but there are about half a dozen distinct clearings in the trees, most of which are quite flat and well-drained.

The outhouse is on the east side of the campground, just past the small bridge.

The cooking area is on the open gravel bar next to the creek. There are picnic tables and a food storage pole with pulleys. Collect water from Twin Falls Creek or from the unnamed creek on the east side of the campsite.

An orange tent surrounded by trees at Twin Falls Camp on the Yoho Valley Loop
My campsite at Twin Falls Camp. The cooking area and river are through those trees.

Twin Falls Camp to Laughing Falls Camp

Distance: 2.3 km

Time: 30 minutes to 1 hour

Elevation Gain: 37 m

Elevation Loss: 91 m

Head east out of the campground, following the trail past the outhouse and up a small hill. Ignore a junction with the Yoho Glacier Trail heading left. The trail swings around to the southeast and heads gradually downhill through subalpine forest. Twin Falls Creek is often nearby.

Hikers on the Yoho Valley Trail near Twin Falls Camp.
Hiking along the Yoho Valley Trail near Twin Falls Camp.

Cross the creek 24.4 km from the trailhead. A few minutes later, ignore a junction with the Little Yoho Valley coming in from the right. Immediately after that, follow a signed spur trail to the right to the base of Laughing Falls. The waters of the Little Yoho River spill over the 30-metre-tall falls.

Laughing Falls in Yoho National Park
The view from the base of Laughing Falls.

Reach the Laughing Falls Camp at 25.1 km, just past the trail to the falls.

Laughing Falls Camp

Laughing Falls Camp is the nicest campground on the Yoho Valley Loop. It has designated dirt tent pads in a small loop where the Little Yoho River meets the Yoho River. Several of the sites are right on the river.

The cooking area is located in an open area with peek-a-boo views of Laughing Falls on one side and the Yoho River on the other. It has picnic tables and food storage poles with pulleys. Collect water from the Little Yoho River.

The outhouse is in a clump of trees near the cooking area.

A tent at the Laughing Falls Campground in Yoho National Park
Some of the campsites at Laughing Falls are right on the river.

Laughing Falls Camp to Takakkaw Falls Camp

Distance: 3.7 km

Time: 45 minutes to 1.5 hours

Elevation Gain: 50 m

Elevation Loss: 116 m

Leaving Laughing Falls Camp, cross the bridge over the Little Yoho River. Continue south on the Yoho Valley Trail, which soon swings away from the river. Reach a junction with the side trail to Duchesnay Lake at 25.7 km. The short trail leads to a shallow lake that dries up in late summer.

Continue along the trail through the forest to a 4-way intersection at 27 km. A short trail to the right (west) leads to Point Lace Falls, a small spread-out waterfall.

Close-up of Point Lace Falls on the Yoho Valley Loop
Close-up of Point Lace Falls. Photo: Reid Holmes.

Another short trail to the left (east) leads to the edge of the Yoho River where you can look across to Angel’s Staircase Falls on the slopes above. It dries up in late summer and there wasn’t much to see on my late August trip.

Angel's Staircase Falls at low water
There wasn’t much water in Angel’s Staircase Falls in late August.

Back on the main trail, head straight (south) to continue on the Yoho Valley Trail. Past the intersection, the trail widens and begins to look like an old road. It also flattens out as you trudge along beside the Yoho River.

Cross a broad outwash plain littered with rocks and debris at 28.5 km. This area is the result of regular avalanches and floods from the glaciers on the Iceline Trail. At the end of the outwash plain, cross a bridge and arrive at the Takakkaw Falls Campground 28.7 km from the trailhead.

Hikers cross a bridge near the Takakkaw Falls Campground
Crossing the bridge near the Takakkaw Falls Campground

Takakkaw Falls Camp

The Takakkaw Falls Campground is classified as a frontcountry walk-in campground, not a backcountry campground, since it is such a short walk from the trailhead. It’s so short that Parks Canada actually provides wheelbarrows to make it easier to haul your stuff from the parking lot.

It has 35 crushed gravel sites. Most of the sites are fairly small by frontcountry standards and will fit only a 4-person tent. (They are big by bakcountry standards.)

Each site has a picnic table and there is also a covered communal cooking shelter with more picnic tables. You can store your food in bear-proof lockers at the centre of camp. There is also a food storage building with shelves that will fit coolers.

There is a washroom building with pit toilets. The campground also has a sink with potable water.

A tent at Takakkaw Falls campground in the Yoho Valley
A few of the campsites have incredible views of Takakkaw Falls.

Takakkaw Falls Camp to Takakkaw Falls Parking Lot

Distance: 0.5 km

Time: 5 to 10 minutes

Elevation Gain: 0 m

Elevation Loss: 10 m

The walk from Takakkaw Falls Campground to Takakkaw Falls Parking Lot is an easy stroll on a wide gravel road.

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Yoho Valley Loop Itineraries

A note for all of these itineraries: Since they are loops, you can do any of the itineraries in the reverse direction. However, that usually means a steeper descent (harder on the knees) and a gentler climb. I prefer to save my knees, which is why my itineraries have the climb first.

Classic 3-Day Yoho Valley Loop Itinerary

This is the itinerary described in this post. It’s the one that I used, and if I did this trip again, this is what I would choose to do because it hits all the highlights in the area.

While the distances on this itinerary are fairly short, the scenery is incredible and we spent a lot of time on the trail taking photos, snacking, and enjoying the views.

Day 1 – Takakkaw Falls to Little Yoho Valley Camp via the Iceline Trail – Distance: 11.4 km, Elevation Gain: 873 m, Elevation Loss: 295 m, Time: 5 to 7 hours

Day 2 – Little Yoho Valley Camp to Twin Falls Camp via the Whaleback Trail – Distance: 11.1km, Elevation Gain: 463 m, Elevation Loss: 870 m, Time: 4.5 to 7 hours

Day 3 – Twin Falls Camp to Takakkaw Falls – Distance: 6.5 km, Elevation Gain: 87 m, Elevation Loss: 217 m, Time: 1.5 to 2.5 hours

As an alternative, you could hike to Laughing Falls on Day 2 instead of Twin Falls Camp.

Quick 2-Day Yoho Valley Loop Itinerary

This itinerary uses the same route as the 3-day itinerary but compresses the last two days into one. This itinerary is good for strong hikers who don’t mind finishing late on day 2.

Day 1 – Takakkaw Falls to Little Yoho Valley Camp via the Iceline Trail – Distance: 11.4 km, Elevation Gain: 873 m, Elevation Loss: 295 m, Time: 5 to 7 hours

Day 2: Little Yoho Valley Camp to Takakkaw Falls via the Whaleback – Distance 17.6 km, Elevation Gain: 550 m, Elevation Loss: 1087 m, Time: 6 to 9.5 hours

Leisurely 4-Day Yoho Valley Loop Itinerary

If you want to split up the loop further, you can add on a night at Yoho Lake to make a 4-day trip.

Day 1 – Takkakaw Falls to Yoho Lake Camp – Distance: 4.6 km, Elevation Gain: 348 m, Elevation Loss: 52 m, Time: 1.5 to 2.5 hours.

Day 2 – Yoho Lake Camp to Little Yoho Valley Camp – 10.3 km, Elevation Gain: 597, Elevation Loss: 340 m; Time: 4 to 6 hours

Day 3 – Little Yoho Valley Camp to Twin Falls Camp via the Whaleback Trail – Distance: 11.1km, Elevation Gain: 463 m, Elevation Loss: 870 m, Time: 4.5 to 7 hours

Day 4 – Twin Falls Camp to Takakkaw Falls – Distance: 6.5 km, Elevation Gain: 87 m, Elevation Loss: 217 m, Time: 1.5 to 2.5 hours

As an alternative, you could hike to Laughing Falls on Day 3 instead of Twin Falls Camp.

Takakkaw Falls seen from the Iceline Trail
Looking across to Takakkaw Falls from the first section of the Iceline Trail

Iceline Only 2-Day Yoho Valley Loop Itinerary

This itinerary gets you the full Iceline experience but skips Twin Falls and the Whaleback.

Day 1 – Takakkaw Falls to Little Yoho Valley Camp via the Iceline Trail – Distance: 11.4 km, Elevation Gain: 873 m, Elevation Loss: 295 m, Time: 5 to 7 hours

Day 2 – Little Yoho Valley Camp to Takakkaw Falls via the Little Yoho Valley Trail – Distance: 9.6 km; Elevation Gain: 58 m, Elevation Loss: 612 m, Time: 3-4 hours

Half Iceline 2-Day Yoho Valley Loop Itinerary

This itinerary skips Little Yoho Valley, which means you do half of the Iceline and skip the Whaleback. You still get to see most of the incredible scenery of the Iceline and to visit the base of Twin Falls.

Day 1: Takakkaw Falls to Twin Falls Camp via the Iceline and Celeste Lake Trails – Distance 15.1 km, Elevation Gain: 881 m; Elevation Loss: 737 m, Time: 6 to 8 hours

Day 2 – Twin Falls Camp to Takakkaw Falls – Distance: 6.5 km, Elevation Gain: 87 m, Elevation Loss: 217 m, Time: 1.5 to 2.5 hours

Laughing Falls 3-Day Basecamp Itinerary

If you’re up for some great day hikes but don’t want to carry your gear too far, base camp at Laughing Falls for a few days.

Day 1 – Part 1: Takakkaw Falls to Laughing Falls via the Yoho Valley Trail – Distance: 4.2 km, Elevation Gain: 126 m, Elevation Loss: 50 m, Time: 1 to 1.5 hours

Day 1 – Part 2: Day hike to the Whaleback and Twin Falls via the Little Yoho Valley, Whaleback, and Yoho Valley Trails – Distance: 11.7 km loop, Elevation Gain: 773 m, Elevation Loss: 773 m, Time: 5 to 7 hours

Day 2 – Day hike the Iceline via the Celeste Lake and Little Yoho Valley Trails – Distance: 15.5 km, Elevation Gain: 742 m, Elevation Loss: 742 m, Time: 7 to 9 hours

Day 3 – Laughing Falls to Takakkaw Falls via the Yoho Valley Trail – Distance: 4.2 km, Elevation Gain: 50 m, Elevation Loss: 126 m; Time: 1 to 1.5 hours.

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Yoho Valley Loop Hiking Tips

Cooking Areas: Each campground has a communal cooking area with a few picnic tables. It was nice to have a place to sit down each evening! But don’t hog the tables – they are for everyone to share.

Food Storage: All campgrounds have a pole with pulleys for food storage. Bring a waterproof bag to store your food in case it rains overnight. I always keep my food in a lightweight dry bag. The pulleys have clips but some are broken – carry a carabiner as a backup.

Food storage poles at the Little Yoho Valley Campground
You’ll find food storage poles at each of the backcountry campgrounds.

Mosquitos: Bugs can be bad on the trail in July and early August. Bring bug spray and a head net.

Bears: This is black and grizzly bear country. Bring bear spray, make noise while hiking, and store your food securely. See my bear safety tips for more info.

Check the weather before you go: The high mountains are notorious for fickle weather. Rainstorms can blow in at any time. City weather forecasts are useless in the mountains. Use an algorithmic spot forecast for the Yoho Valley like Spotwx. (Read my guide to weather apps for hikers for more tips.)

Check trail conditions on the Yoho National Park website. This is especially important in early summer or fall when the trail can be icy or snowy. You’ll also want to make sure that the Whaleback Bridge is in place for the season.

Check Yoho Valley Road conditions on the Yoho National Park website. The road is closed due to avalanche hazard from mid-October to mid-June each year.

Final Thoughts

To be honest, I didn’t expect that much from the Yoho Valley – I knew it was going to be pretty because it’s in the Canadian Rockies. But I was blown away by how gorgeous this area is! It’s quickly become one of my favourite backpacking trips in the region (second to the Rockwall Trail I think).

Since the Yoho Valley isn’t as popular as some other Rockies backpacking trips, it also doesn’t feel as busy and is a bit easier to get reservations.

If you have questions about backpacking the Yoho Valley Loop and Iceline Trail, let me know in the comments – I’m happy to help.

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16 Best Hikes in Newfoundland https://dawnoutdoors.com/best-hikes-in-newfoundland/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/best-hikes-in-newfoundland/#respond Fri, 28 Jun 2024 22:19:15 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=22830 I’ve been to Newfoundland three times, and the main reason for all of my trips has been hiking. It’s such a gorgeous place with so many incredible trails, most with beautiful coastal views. In this post, I’ve got my picks for the 16 best hikes in Newfoundland. I’ve hiked all over the province. While I …

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I’ve been to Newfoundland three times, and the main reason for all of my trips has been hiking. It’s such a gorgeous place with so many incredible trails, most with beautiful coastal views. In this post, I’ve got my picks for the 16 best hikes in Newfoundland.

I’ve hiked all over the province. While I haven’t been everywhere in Newfoundland (yet!), I have been to most places. And on my most recent two trips, I hiked every day, sometimes on two or three different trails a day! (Honesty check: I didn’t hike a few of the days I was attending a conference in St. John’s, but that was out of my control.)

Most of the hikes in this post are easy or moderate, but there are a few tough options, especially in Western Newfoundland. I’ve also got tips for hiking in Newfoundland at the end of the post. This list of the best hikes in Newfoundland includes:

Planning a trip to Newfoundland? I’ve got a big list of the best things to do Newfoundland plus lots of travel tips for the province.

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Thanks so much to Go Western Newfoundland for hosting me during part of my trip to Newfoundland. All opinions in this post are my own. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Best Hikes in Newfoundland Quick Picks

A man in a yellow backpack walks along a coastal trail near headlands on the Rockcut Trails in Twillingate

Best Easy Hike: French Head, Twillingate

A man hikes on a rocky beach on the Green Gardens Trail in Gros Morne National Park in Newfoundland

Best Moderate Hike: Green Gardens, Gros Morne National Park

Three people hike off trail on the Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park in Newfoundland

Best Challenging Hike: Tablelands, Gros Morne National Park

View of St. John's from the top of Signal Hill, one of the best hikes in Newfoundland

Best Hike Close to St. John’s: North Head (Signal Hill)

The view of the ocean from the South Head Lighthouse Trail near Corner Brook, Newfoundland

Best Hike Close to Corner Brook: South Head Lighthouse

Newfoundland Hiking Map

Most of the hikes on this list are easy to follow. But sometimes the trailheads can be hard to find or there are lots of confusing unmarked trails that can lead you astray. As well, cell service can be spotty. I recommend using a hiking app like AllTrails+ to stay on track.

I also made a custom Google Map for you that shows you the locations of the trailheads for all of my picks for the best hikes in Newfoundland. But DON’T use Google Maps once you are on the trails. There is often no cell service and Google doesn’t show the trails correctly (or at all in some cases).

I made this custom map of the best hikes in Newfoundland for you. Click to zoom in and explore.

Best Hikes on the Avalon Peninsula

North Head Trail (Signal Hill), St. John’s

View of St. John's from the top of Signal Hill, one of the best hikes in Newfoundland
Looking down on St. John’s from the top of Signal Hill

Difficulty: Moderate

Time Needed: 1 to 1.5 hours

Distance: 3.5 km loop

Elevation Gain: 160 m

You can hike to the top of Signal Hill right from downtown St. John’s. It’s one of the best urban hikes I’ve ever done and is on my list of the best things to do in St. John’s. I actually started my hike right from the front door of my hotel – I dipped out for a sneaky hike between sessions at a conference!

The loop is 3.5 km long, but if you hike from downtown, that adds another 1 to 2 km. You can start the loop hike from Battery Road, from the Signal Hill Visitor Centre part way up, or from the top of the hill. I went counter-clockwise, but either direction is fine.

Since I started from downtown, I walked through the colourful cliffside houses in The Battery neighbourhood first. (It’s pronounced batt-ree in Newfinese, not batt-er-ee.) The trail begins at the end of North Battery Road and curls around North Head. There is one narrow section with a chain, but it’s not really needed.

From there, you’ll arrive at a set of Parks Canada red chairs, since this is a National Historic Site. Enjoy the view and take a rest before beginning the big climb up lots of stairs to the top of Signal Hill. The view of downtown St. John’s from the top is incredible.

There are a few ways to descend. I followed the Queen’s Battery Trail downhill, then took an informal trail towards Deadman’s Pond. I used an informal trail back down to Battery Road to close the loop.

If you’re walking back to downtown St. John’s, stop at The Battery Cafe on your way back. Their iced coffee really hit the spot at the end of my hike!

Bay Bulls Lighthouse/Spout Path, Bay Bulls

The spout geyser erupts next to the ocean on the East Coast Trail
The Spout erupting. Photo: Gemma Taylor

Difficulty: Moderate or Challenging

Time Needed: 3 or 8 to 10 hours

Distance: 7.2 or 22 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: 320 or 1040 m

While I have hiked the West Coast Trail and North Coast Trail on Vancouver Island, I haven’t hiked Newfoundland’s iconic East Coast Trail yet. It follows the rugged Atlantic Coast for 270 km on the Avalon Peninsula. (The North Head Trail, above, is actually part of the ECT!)

If you’re looking to get a taste of the ECT on a day hike, try the Spout Path in Bay Bulls. My friend Gemma hiked this section as part of her multi-day trip along the East Coast Trail.

She hiked the Spouth Path from end to end (16.2 km total), but she says “most day hikers start at the Bay Bulls trailhead and turn around at the Spout (11km one way). It makes for a long but rewarding day for experienced hikers.” The Spout is the highlight of the trip. It’s an impressive wave and river-powered geyser.

If you don’t have time to go all the way to the Spout, Gemma recommends stopping at Bay Bulls Lighthouse about 3.6 km from the trailhead. “The exposed trail offers sweeping views of the ocean and intricate coves,” Gemma explains. She also says that people often see whales!

If you are in Bay Bulls, don’t miss taking a puffin and whale watch trip. I did this tour on my first trip to Newfoundland and it was so fun. You’ll cruise through the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve. For me, the highlight was spotting puffins and lots of other seabirds. But whales are also common, and sometimes you can see icebergs too!

Mistaken Point, Portugal Cove South

Hikes follow the trail towards the fossil sites at Mistaken Point in Newfoundland
Hiking towards the fossil site. Photo: Stephanie Mayo

Difficulty: Easy

Time Needed: 4 hours

Distance: 6 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: 65 m

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site is a special place. Located at the southern end of the Avalon Peninsula, it protects a huge collection of ancient marine fossils, preserved in the prehistoric ocean floor for over 565 million years.

Since the fossils are so important, the only way to see them is on a guided hike, which is fairly easy but lasts for four hours since you make so many stops to look at fossils. I haven’t made it out to Mistaken Point yet, but my friend Stephanie who runs The World as I See It just came back from a visit.

“I highly recommend booking the guided hike,” Stephanie says. “The knowledgeable guide shared interesting details about this unique environment as we hiked along the scenic coastline. At Mistaken Point we took our shoes off to walk out on the rocks that hold the fossils which made this hike a truly unique experience.” Sounds super cool! I can’t wait to see the fossils on my next trip to Newfoundland.

Chance Cove Coastal Trail, Chance Cove

An islet off the coast as seen from the Chance Cove Coastal Trail in Newfoundland
One of the great viewpoints along the Chance Cove Coastal Trail

Difficulty: Moderate

Time Needed: 1.5 to 2 hours

Distance: 4 km loop

Elevation Gain: 150 m

This gorgeous coastal trail is located on the edge of the Avalon Peninsula and has incredible views of some sea stacks and islets. It starts in the small community of Chance Cove and immediately heads up a big hill into the forest. The path can be muddy, so wear waterproof boots.

About 15 minutes from the start, the path heads back down to sea level to a viewpoint on the edge of Chance Cove Point. Next the trail forks. Take the left path which follows the coast out to a headland. There are several cliffside viewpoints along the way.

Once you round the headland, a stairway leads down to a small beach. Back on the main trail, you can follow two spur trails to more viewpoints atop Green Head. Just past the spur trails a steep trail with a rope leads down to another beach if you are up for a challenging scramble. After the rope, the trail goes inland and up and over a small hill to rejoin the main trail. Turn left and follow the trail back to the start.

Best Hikes in Eastern Newfoundland

Skerwink Trail, Port Rexton

A man wearing rain gear and a yellow backpack hikes on the Skerwink Trail in Newfoundland on a foggy day. The foreground is heath and short trees and the coast is in the background.
Hiking the Skerwink Trail on a wet and foggy day.

Difficulty: Moderate

Time Needed: 1.5 to 2 hours

Distance: 5 km loop

Elevation Gain: 150 m

Several online sources call the Skerwink Trail the best hike in Newfoundland. The day I hiked it was foggy with sideways rain, so I can’t say I agree. But despite the weather, it was pretty spectacular. The trail starts in Port Rexton near Trinity and makes a loop around Skerwink Head.

In places, the trail sticks close to the cliff edge with lots of views of the coastline and Trinity Harbour. But in other places it heads inland through thick forest and bog, using boardwalks and stairs to carry you over the more challenging terrain. The two ends of the loop are on old gravel roads, which make for easier walking than the rest of the trail.

After your hike, get beers at Port Rexton Brewing. Or grab coffee and a sandwich at Two Whales Coffee Shop. I was happy for their delicious veggie soup to warm me up after our soggy Skerwink experience. If you want to support the organization that maintains the trail, you can buy Hike Discovery merch and trail maps online or at local shops.

The Chimney/Klondike Trail, Bonavista

A tall and thin seastack called The Chimney rises out of the ocean in front of a foggy sky near Bonavista Newfoundland
The Chimney is pretty impressive – I can’t believe it hasn’t fallen over yet!

Difficulty: Easy

Time Needed: 45 min to 2 hours

Distance: 2 to 6.5 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: Up to 100 m

Maintained by Hike Discovery, this trail near Bonavista is actually an old horse and cart route between the communities of Spillar’s Cove and Elliston. You can walk the entire route through the forest and wetlands between the two towns. But if you’re short on time, I think the section from Spillar’s Cove to The Chimney is the best part. We hiked it on a foggy day and it was still gorgeous.

It’s an easy walk on an old gravel road out to the coast. From there, you’ll have a great view of The Chimney, an incredible sea stack off to the left. You can follow faint paths off to the left to get closer to the sea stack, but the view doesn’t get any better.

There is also a small islet in the centre of the cove with a puffin colony! The views of puffins aren’t quite as good as at the nearby Elliston Puffin Viewing site, but it’s still pretty awesome to watch them hopping and flapping about.

After your hike, head to Ragged Rocks Gastropub in Bonavista. I had the best seafood chowder of my life there. Such huge scallops! It’s on my list of the best things to do in Bonavista.

Best Hikes in Central Newfoundland

Coastal Trail, Terra Nova National Park

Coastal mud flats with trees on the Coastal Trail in Terra Nova National Park
The mud flats along the coast are a great place to spot birds.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Needed: 3 to 4 hours

Distance: 9.5 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: 80 m

This trail leads along the shoreline of Newman Sound in Terra Nova National Park. There are trailheads at the visitor centre and at the day-use area in the Newman Sound Campground so you can start at either end. We were staying at the campground so we started from that end.

The trail parallels the coastline, periodically dipping down to small beaches or viewpoints between the trees. It’s a great place to watch for birds in the mud flats or eagles overhead. You might even see moose along the trail… although might only spot their tracks and poop. About halfway along a side trail leads to Pissamere Falls.

Don’t miss the displays at the Visitor Centre either before or after your hike. They have great displays about the flora and fauna of the park, including touch tanks where you can interact with marine life. But my favourite part was the huge bale of sticks that was a great visual representation of how many twigs moose eat every day – about 40 to 60 pounds worth!

Nanny’s Hole, Twillingate

A man with a yellow backpack hikes along the winding Nanny Hole Trail towards a headland at Crow Head in Twillingate Newfoundland
Heading towards the coast on the Nanny Hole Trail

Difficulty: Easy/Moderate

Time Needed: 1 to 1.5 hours

Distance: 2.5 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: 100 m

This short trail starts at the Long Point Lighthouse near Twillingate. From the viewing platform near the parking lot, you can look down to a rugged and rocky peninsula sticking out into the ocean. If you look carefully, you’ll see tiny hikers walking along an undulating trail – that’s the Nanny’s Hole Trail.

To start the hike, follow the path downhill from the parking area. There are a couple great viewpoints from the top of the bluff, but soon you begin descending on sets of wooden stairs. At the bottom, follow the trail across the grassy meadow to the coast. Then, turn right and hike along the path out to Nanny’s Hole. The trail ends at a great viewpoint on the edge of the headland.

When you are done, retrace your steps back up the stairs to the parking lot. If you hike here, consider donating to the Rockcut Twillingate Trails, which maintains the paths in this area.

After our hike, we went for dinner at Annie’s in Twillingate. They have a great view of the harbour and lots of great seafood on the menu. Try the cod tongues as an appetizer. They are a bit chewy, kind of like calamari, but really tasty.

French Head (Rock Cut Trails), Twillingate

A man in a yellow backpack walks along a coastal trail near headlands on the Rockcut Trails in Twillingate
Following the undulating trail near French Head

Difficulty: Easy

Time Needed: 1 hour

Distance: 2.5 km loop

Elevation Gain: 100 m

In the last few years, the town of Twillingate has created an incredible trail system on the east side of Twillingate Island called the Rockcut Trails. Please donate to support their work if you are able. I only had time to hike a short part of the network so I chose the quick, but beautiful French Head section.

From the trailhead, you walk a short distance to French Beach, which is so beautiful. From there, the trail loops up and over several small hills out to the end of French Head and then back to the beach.

The views of the coastline are incredible: To the east, you can see Spillers Point with Fogo Island in the far distance. To the west, you can see Carter Head, Burnt Island, and Twillingate Lighthouse, which you can visit at the start of the Nanny’s Hole hike (above). We actually did both Nanny’s Hole and French Beach on the same day since they were both short and easy.

The Rockcut Trails actually include a few backcountry campgrounds, so that’s on my list for my next visit. But if you’re looking for drive-in camping, I recommend Dildo Run Provincial Park. It’s an easy 20-minute drive from Twillingate, has oceanfront campsites and showers… and a hilarious name.

Brimstone Head, Fogo Island

A man walks down wooden stairs on the way down from the viewpoint at Brimstone Head on Fogo Island, Newfoundland. The town of Fogo is visible in the distance.
Descending from Brimstone Head. You can see the town of Fogo in the distance.

Difficulty: Moderate

Time Needed: 45 minutes to 1 hour

Distance: 2 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: 90 m

Fogo Island was one of my favourite places in Newfoundland. The stark landscapes were otherworldly. Thanks to investment from a local girl turned tech millionaire, Fogo Island has a unique social enterprise and arts community. For hikers, one of the benefits is the great hiking trails all over the island.

Brimstone Head provides the best effort-to-reward ratio of all of Fogo’s hikes. It’s a short but steep climb with the help of stairs to the top of Brimstone Head. There is a great view from the top of the town of Fogo.

Brimstone Head is also considered to be one of the four corners of the Earth by the Canadian Flat Earth Society, so don’t fall off since you’ll never be seen again! On the way down, be sure to take the detour onto the “scenic route” to loop around to a viewpoint overlooking Back Cove and the Brimstone Head RV Park. We spent the night in our tent here and were treated to an incredible sunset.

There are lots of other great short hikes on Fogo, and I honestly had trouble picking just one to include in this guide. I also recommend the Joe Batts Arm Trail and Shoal Bay Trails. They both have an artsy surprise!

Best Hikes in Western Newfoundland

Green Gardens, Gros Morne National Park

A man hikes on a rocky beach on the Green Gardens Trail in Gros Morne National Park in Newfoundland
The beach on the Green Gardens Trail

Difficulty: Moderate

Time Needed: 3.5 to 4.5 hours

Distance: 9 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: 350 m

Green Gardens is one of the best hikes in Gros Morne National Park in western Newfoundland. It starts in the open barrens of the Tablelands before descending through the trees to the coastline. As the trail works its way downhill the vegetation changes and becomes more and more lush thanks to the fertile volcanic soil – a real contrast to the desolate rocks of the Tablelands.

The trail ends at a backcountry campground a bluff above Old Man’s Cove. The tops of the cliff have dense meadows of grasses and wildflowers. You can follow a rough staircase downhill to the beach. The normally frigid Atlantic is tempered by a warm current here, so you might even want to swim. (Sticking my feet in was enough for me.)

You can also continue down the beach to a waterfall tucked into a small canyon. Save your energy for the hike back to the trailhead – it’s all uphill.

After your hike, be sure to make the short drive to the village of Trout River to have a delicious cod dinner at the Seaside Restaurant, which has been in the same family since 1981. Time your visit for sunset – it’s spectacular.

Tablelands, Gros Morne National Park

Three people hike off trail on the Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park in Newfoundland
Hiking across the earth’s mantle on the off-trail Tablelands hike

Difficulty: Easy or Challenging

Time Needed: 1 or 5 hours

Distance: 4 or 7.5 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: 90 to 530 m

The Tablelands are one of the most interesting parts of Gros Morne National Park. The barren moonscape rocks here is actually part of the Earth’s mantle – the middle layer of the planet below the crust.

There are two ways to do this hike. The first is the easy Tablelands Trail. It’s a gentle 4 km hike on an old road bed that skirts around the base of the mountain. It has great views of the Tablelands and ends at glacier-carved Winter House Brook Canyon.

The other option, (and the one that I did) is an off-trail hike to the top of the Tablelands. This hike follows the main trail for the first 0.7 km then veers uphill and off trail to a viewpoint overlooking Winter House Brook Canyon.

There is no trail or established route so you need to be comfortable with route finding, loose rock, and steep slopes. You can pick your own path, but the rough track on Gaia GPS or AllTrails+ is a good starting point. (You don’t have to do the full loop on there – just go to the top of the canyon, and head back down.)

I did this hike with guides from Wild Gros Morne and they were great at explaining the unique geology. They also pointed out some really cool plants, including carnivorous pitcher plants and sundews. Before the hike, they took us out on a Zodiac tour in Bonne Bay so we could see the Tablelands from the water. Oh, and the best part: the packed lunch included the most delicious lobster roll sandwich I’ve ever had!

Gros Morne Mountain, Gros Morne National Park

View of 10 Mile Pond from the summit of Gros Morne Mountain
10 Mile Pond from the near the summit

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Time Needed: 7 to 9 hours

Distance: 17 km loop

Elevation Gain: 868 m

When I hiked to the summit of Gros Morne Mountain on my first trip to Newfoundland I thought it was the tallest mountain in Newfoundland. But on a more recent trip, I learned that it is actually the second tallest mountain! Gros Morne tops out at 806 m, but The Cabox a few kilometres away is 812 m tall. I’ll have to do that one next time!

Despite being number two, Gros Morne Mountain is a great hike, albeit a long and challenging one. The first half of the trail is a steady climb through the forest to the base of the peak. From there, you head up a steep and rocky gully full of boulders to the summit. The summit has a strangely flat and rocky summit. But it has incredible views of 10 Mile Pond and the ocean. I actually spotted caribou from the top too!

To descend, you follow stairs down the backside of the mountain and then loop back around, passing the backcountry campsite at Ferry Gulch, which is the end of the Long Range Traverse.

There is a seasonal closure each May and June to protect wildlife and prevent erosion. As well, it’s not a great place for dogs due to the fragile ecosystem, the likelihood of stressing wildlife, and the rocky terrain that can cut dog’s paws.

Long Range Traverse, Gros Morne National Park

Hiking the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
Looking back down the Western Brook Pond. This is the spot where all of the tourism brochure photos are taken.

Difficulty: Very Challenging

Time Needed: 3 to 5 days

Distance: ~35 km one-way

Elevation Gain: 1270 m

The first time I went to Newfoundland we planned our trip specifically to hike the Long Range Traverse. It’s a spectacular multi-day backpacking trip through the Long Range Mountains in Gros Morne National Park.

There is no official trail – instead, you have to use a map and compass or GPS to navigate. The route starts with the tourist boat across Western Brook Pond. From there, you bash your way through a thickly vegetated valley and up a steep glaciated headwall. The next few days see you finding your own route through bogs, around lakes, and across tundra. The traverse ends on the Gros Morne Mountain Trail, which makes a logical add-on to the trip.

My Long Range Traverse trip was spectacular. We had days of gorgeous sun and thick fog. We saw moose, caribou, and a bear. I stepped into a mud puddle that was up over my knees. And I came away with so many fond memories.

I didn’t have time to do the Long Traverse on my most recent trip to Newfoundland, but I know if I go back it will be at the top of my to-do list since it is the most epic backpacking trip in Newfoundland.

Bottle Cove/South Head Lighthouse Trail, Lark Harbour

The view of the coast from the South Head Lighthouse Trail near Corner Brook, Newfoundland
The view of the entrance to Bay of Islands from the end of the South Head Lighthouse trail.

Difficulty: Easy or Challenging

Time Needed: 30 minutes or 4 to 5 hours

Distance: 1 km or 8 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: 30 m or 500m

The Bay of Islands region outside of Corner Brook was an area I hadn’t heard about until my most recent trip to Newfoundland. It’s a gorgeous area with little fishing towns in sheltered coves, windswept headlands, and big views. The trails starting at Bottle Cove were some of my favourites in Western Newfoundland.

From the trailhead, you can hike the short and easy trail to the lookout above Bottle Cove. It has a great view of the rocky headland and sea cave across the cove.

But I suggest continuing onward (and upward) on the steep South Head Lighthouse Trail. At the top, there are incredible views of the islands at the mouth of the Bay of Islands. You can also look down at the location of the former South Head Lighthouse, which must have been a very inhospitable place to live so exposed to the weather.

Keep in mind that this trail is in the Blow Me Down Mountains, and they live up to their name. I was nearly blown off my feet on the top!

Volunteers from Outer Bay of Islands Enhancement Committee have built and maintained several trails in the area including the Bottle Cove and South Head Lighthouse Trails. Please consider making a donation if you hike here.

Be sure to stop at the Saltbox Restaurant in Benoit’s Cove for great seafood on their waterfront patio. The restaurant is the home of Everoutdoor Adventures, a hiking and guiding company, as well as an interpretive centre for the Cabox Aspiring Geopark, a proposed UNESCO Geopark. They have lots of great maps and info boards about the local geology and history.

Man in the Mountain (Humber Valley Trail), Corner Brook

View of Humber Valley with fall colours from the Man in the Mountain Trail near Corner Brook
I got great views of the fall colours in the Humber Valley from the Man in the Mountain Trail

Difficulty: Challenging

Time Needed: 2.5 to 3.5 hours

Distance: 5 km round-trip

Elevation Gain: 360 m

If you’re driving Highway 1 just east of Corner Brook, look up and see if you can spot the face in the rocks, known as Man in the Mountain. If you’re a hardy hiker, you can also hike to the top of the man’s face for a great view of Corner Brook and the Humber Valley.

The Man in the Mountain viewpoint is actually part of the 14.5 km-long Humber Valley Trail, which itself is part of the International Appalachian Trail Newfoundland and Labrador. So you can just do the short hike up to the Man in the Mountain viewpoint… or you can continue for days.

I did a short loop using the steep Bear Head Trail and part of the Humber Valley Trail to visit Arne’s Lookout with Glen from Everoutdoor Adventures. You can also continue to the top of Man in the Mountain (a face in the rocks you can see from the Highway below).

Newfoundland Hiking Tips

National Park Entry Fees

You need to pay park entry fees to hike in Terra Nova and Gros Morne National Parks. All other hikes in Newfoundland are free. Here’s the fee breakdown for the National Parks:

Terra Nova National Park: $6.50/adult/day

Gros Morne National Park: $11/adult day

Parks Canada Discovery Pass: $75.25/adult or $151.25 for a group of up to 7 people in the same car. Valid for one year. This is the best deal if you plan to spend more than a few days in the parks.

Weather in Newfoundland

Newfoundland has a temperate marine climate which means it is never too hot but is often wet and chilly. The best time of year to hike in Newfoundland is between mid-June and early October when the weather is warmest and there is less rain. The snow in the mountains will all be melted by then too.

I think the best time to hike is in the fall. I spent 10 days hiking in Gros Morne and Western Newfoundland in fall. I was treated to mostly sunny weather and gorgeous fall colours.

Wet weather is a reality in Newfoundland. Read my tips for hiking in the rain to get ready.

Watch the forecast carefully when you are in Newfoundland. Even if it is calling for rain, it often will only rain for a few hours out of the day, leaving the rest of the day open for dry hiking!

Cell Phone Service in Newfoundland

Cell phone service can be spotty or non-existent in parts of Newfoundland. You’ll probably have at least some signal near towns, but away from towns, you often won’t have any service. Look up all the info you will need for your hike while you still have service. I like the use the Gaia GPS app or AllTrails+ to download offline maps of the trails before I go.

Also, keep in mind that without cell service you won’t be able to call for help in an emergency. We brought our Garmin inReach Mini 2 satellite messenger as a just-in-case backup.

What to Bring Hiking in Newfoundland

Just like on any hike anywhere in the world, you need to be prepared. Don’t forget the 10 Essentials, a list of key items you should bring on every hike.

You’ll also want moisture-wicking and quick-drying synthetic hiking clothes. Skip the cotton – it doesn’t dry and will make you cold and uncomfortable.

Bring a good rain jacket. On this trip, I wore my MEC Flashcloud, but it is discontinued. I also love my Mountain Hardwear Minimizer because it is super light and compact but still breathable. For a budget option, I recommend the Outdoor Research Helium Rain Jacket.

Make sure that your jacket has a fresh waterproof treatment to stop it from wetting out. (Read my guide to why rain jackets wet out for more info.)

A woman wearing a rain coat and a backpack with a rain cover smiles on a rainy day on the Skerwink trail near Port Rexton
Smiling through the rain on the Skerwink Trail in my rain jacket. The yellow thing on my backpack is a pack cover.

On most hikes in Newfoundland I usually also pack my rain pants, just in case. I’ve gotten caught out in unexpected rain a few times and was glad I had them. I use the basic MEC Hydrofoil Stretch pants and they’ve held up well, including on my incredibly wet Skerwink Trail hike.

You’ll also want waterproof footwear because even if it isn’t raining, a lot of the trails have lots of mud and deep puddles. I wore my Salomon XA Pro Goretex Trail runners and they were great – lightweight, lots of traction, and waterproof.

If your backpack came with a rain cover, that’s great. But if not, you can buy one separately. I like the MEC silicone rain cover since it packs down so small. Or use a dry bag to protect gear inside your pack. I use Sea to Summit Lightweight dry bags.

It can also be chilly in Newfoundland so a fleece or synthetic insulated jacket is a great idea. Skip down jackets since they don’t provide any warmth when wet. I brought my Arc’teryx Proton insulated jacket and Outdoor Research Trail Mix Fleece and wore them both a lot.

A woman stands at the edge of a cliff watching puffs on an offshore island near Bonavista. She is dressed for hiking with a backpack, warm jacket, and fleece hat.
Bundled up in my Arc’teryx Proton jacket to watch puffins on the Klondike Trail in Bonavista.

Leave No Trace

Learn the Leave No Trace principles before you hike in Newfoundland. This is a sensitive ecosystem with a short growing season. Pack out all your trash. Use toilets at trailheads or villages before you hike. If you have to go on the trail, dig a cat hole or bring a WAG bag to pack our your poop.

Guided Hikes

If you’d rather have a local show you around, there are lots of guided hiking tour operators in Newfoundland. Going with a guide can be a great way to learn more about the local plants, animals, geology, and history. Guides can often show you off-the-beaten path hikes you wouldn’t otherwise have heard about – that’s how I heard about the South Head Lighthouse Trail.

In Western Newfoundland, I recommend Gros Morne Adventures, Tour Gros Morne, Wild Gros Morne, and EverOutdoor Adventures. I did a hike with each of these companies thanks to Go Western Newfoundland.

In Eastern Newfoundland, I’ve heard good things about Great Canadian Trails guided trips on the East Coast Trail. You can find more regional tour operators through Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism.

Give Back to Trailhead Communities

Many hikes in Newfoundland are located in small towns and villages that depend on tourism for their livelihood and have spent lots of money and time on building trails to attract tourists. Often hikers visit a community, hike a free trail, and then leave.

Where possible, be sure to give back to trailhead communities by shopping at local stores, eating at local restaurants, and staying at local hotels or campgrounds. You can also make donations to local trail maintenance groups.

Indigenous Context

Newfoundland is the traditional territory of the Beothuk and Mi’kma’ki. It is important to be respectful of this land.

Final Thoughts

So that’s my big list of the best hikes in Newfoundland. I’m already dreaming of going back to Newfoundland someday to hike more! Do you have questions about Newfoundland? Ask me in the comments.

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20 Fabulous Canadian National Park Gift Ideas https://dawnoutdoors.com/canadian-national-park-gift-ideas/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/canadian-national-park-gift-ideas/#comments Fri, 10 Nov 2023 01:38:02 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=9173 If you’ve been to a Canadian national park, you know they are special places. I’ve been to 18 of the 48 national parks in Canada and am already planning which park I will visit next. If you’re looking for the perfect present for a national park lover, I’ve got you covered. This list of the …

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If you’ve been to a Canadian national park, you know they are special places. I’ve been to 18 of the 48 national parks in Canada and am already planning which park I will visit next.

If you’re looking for the perfect present for a national park lover, I’ve got you covered. This list of the best Canadian national park gift ideas has something for everyone including:

  • The BEST gift for Canadian national parks lovers: the Parks Canada Discovery pass
  • Books and maps to plan their next trip to a national park
  • Must-have national park souvenirs and collectibles
  • Posters, art, and decor to celebrate their love of national parks
  • And lots more!

Read on to discover a fun gift for the national park lover on your list.

Psst! Looking for more outdoorsy gift ideas? I can help!

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Parks Canada Discovery Pass

Parks Canada Discovery pass is the best Canadian national park gift ideas

The Parks Canada Discovery Pass gives you access to all national parks across Canada, as well as National Marine Conservation Areas and National Historic Sites. That’s over 80 locations.

The pass is valid for 12 months from the date of purchase, so it’s a perfect gift to spark a trip next year.

You can buy individual passes for adults or seniors. But the best value is to buy the family/group pass that covers up to seven people travelling in the same vehicle.

Check prices:

READ NEXT: How to Take an Epic Canadian National Parks Road Trip

National Parks Puzzles

Whether it’s a park you dream of visiting or one you have fond memories of, working on a National Park puzzle is lots of fun. In the winter, I love to work on beautiful puzzles that get me excited for summer adventures.

Check prices:

Personalized Wood Ornament

Small wooden ornament in the shape of the Parks Canada logo with personalized text at the bottom.

These handmade wood ornaments come in the shape of the Parks Canada logo. You can personalize the bottom to feature your favourite national park or something meaningful to you, like the date of your visit.

Check prices:

Rumpl National Park Puffy Blanket

Rumpl makes amazingly cozy puffy blankets that are perfect for wrapping up around the campfire, draping over your sleeping bag on cold nights, or keeping in your van. They have a new series that celebrates Canadian National Parks with gorgeous artwork inspired by your favourite park.

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National Parks Patches

Add sew-on or iron-on patches to your backpack as a great souvenir of all the Canadian National Parks you have visited. You can get official ones from Parks Canada, but the ones on Etsy are much cuter.

Check prices:

Backroad Maps

Sometimes you just want a paper map. I love the Backroad Map Books since their maps have everything outdoor adventurers want: hiking trails, gravel roads, hot springs, fishing holes, and lots more. I take these maps on every road trip.

You can buy region-specific map books or folded waterproof maps for small areas, like Banff, the Bruce Peninsula, Yoho, and lots more.

Check prices:

A Memoir About One Woman’s Journey to Visit All of Canada’s National Parks

Book cover for Park Bagger by Marlis Butcher - a great Canadian national parks gift ideas

Marlis Butcher spent years exploring all of Canada’s National Parks, kayaking, hiking, snorkelling, and snowshoeing along the way. Parks Bagger is a memoir that chronicles her adventures and encourages others to visit some of Canada’s lesser-known parks.

Check prices:

READ NEXT: The Best Canadian Adventure Books

National Park Scratch-Off Maps

It’s fun to track where you’ve been. Commemorate your trips by scratching-off provinces, landmarks, and of course, National Parks as you visit them.

Check prices:

National Parks Calendars

A beautiful wall calendar is a great way to display inspiration from your favourite national parks all year long.

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National Parks Scented Candles

These beautiful candles are handmade in Canada. Each one has a unique scent and beautiful artwork celebrating a different national park. You can buy them as a set of mini candles or in large mason-jar versions with wood lids.

Check prices:

Canadian National Parks T-Shirts

Celebrate your favourite Canadian National Park with a fun graphic tee. Talented artists on Etsy have created dozens of fun designs.

Check prices:

Canadian National Park Guide Books

A gorgeous guidebook is a great way to start planning a trip to Canada’s National Parks. I also love looking through them to discover places I didn’t even know I wanted to go. The National Geographic Guide covers all the parks, but you can also get park-specific guides for Banff and the mountain parks, or regional guides that include the national parks.

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National Parks of Canada Colouring Book

National Parks of Canada Colouring Book - a great Canadian national parks gift idea

I love this gorgeous colouring book – I bought it to entertain me during the pandemic. The intricate designs provide hours of meditative colouring. I have spent many an evening reminiscing about my favourite parks while colouring in these stunning images.

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Paul Zizka Photography Books

I’ve followed Paul Zizka’s photography on Instagram for years. He takes absolutely breathtaking photos of the Canadian Rockies, with a focus on night photography and outdoor sports. His coffee table books make wonderful gifts.

Check prices:

Canadian National Parks Posters

There are tons of gorgeous Canadian National Parks posters on Etsy, created by talented artists. There are all sorts of styles from vintage to modern. I love the ones from sillustrates, Canada Untamed, DamnFinePrintsCanada, and Raspberry Milk Designs.

Check prices:

Parks Canada Hoody

A man wearing a grey cotton hoody with a large Parks Canada logo on the front. It makes a great gift for national parks of canada lovers

My husband bought this soft cotton hoody when we visited Pacific Rim National Park last summer. Since then, it’s become his go-to layer for wearing on chilly days. It’s unisex, so it works for lots of body types. (That’s the Parks Canada model in the photo – not my husband!)

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National Parks Stickers

Personalize your water bottle, laptop, notebook, car, or RV with stickers that celebrate the Canadian National Parks. Lots of artists on Etsy have really cute options. I like the ones from SimplyLaurelDesigns, Canada Untamed, and MattHallArtworks.

Check prices:

Canada National Parks Bucket List Journal

This cute handmade journal is the perfect way to document your visit to every Canadian National Park. It has spots to make notes about your trip to each park as well as room for stamps, stickers, and photos.

Check prices:

Plant and Animal Field Guides

One of the best parts of spending time in national parks is learning about the local plants and animals. I love using field guides to identify flora and fauna.

Check prices:

READ NEXT: The Best Vancouver Hiking Books

Canadian National Parks Art

Etsy is a great place to buy unique original art. You can get paintings or prints in a variety of styles. I have lots of unique outdoors art in my house from Etsy. I love Anja Jane‘s work (above right) and have one of her prints hanging in my home office.

Check prices:

So those are my picks for the best Canadian national parks gift ideas. Putting together this list got me excited about planning my next national park trip… and I bet you want to plan a trip now too!

MORE GIFT GUIDES:

MORE CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS POSTS:

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The Ultimate Guide to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve https://dawnoutdoors.com/guide-to-gwaii-haanas-national-park-reserve/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/guide-to-gwaii-haanas-national-park-reserve/#respond Tue, 26 Sep 2023 03:25:26 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=18412 Gwaii Haanas National Park is a near-mythical place made up of incredible wildlife, towering old-growth forests, and moving Haida cultural sites. Add in the fact that it is located in a remote corner of northwest British Columbia and can only be accessed by boat, and you have a true once-in-a-lifetime trip destination. Planning a trip …

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Gwaii Haanas National Park is a near-mythical place made up of incredible wildlife, towering old-growth forests, and moving Haida cultural sites. Add in the fact that it is located in a remote corner of northwest British Columbia and can only be accessed by boat, and you have a true once-in-a-lifetime trip destination.

Planning a trip to Gwaii Haanas can be pretty overwhelming. When I was researching the park before my visit, I had a lot of questions. At first, I wasn’t even sure how to get to the park!

I’ve put together a huge guide to Gwaii Haanas for you that includes everything I learned about the national park. It includes:

This is a sensitive wilderness area. Learn how to Leave No Trace to keep the wilderness wild. Make sure you are prepared by bringing the 10 Essentials. Get ready for adventure with this checklist of things to do before every hike.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve Basics

The entire southern part of the Haida Gwaii archipelago is protected within Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. Also, much of the surrounding ocean is in the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area Reserve because the Haida do not see a distinction between land and water environments.

Here are a few quick facts about Gwaii Haanas:

  • The park’s name is pronounced “gwhy hah-nas” and means “islands of beauty” in the Haida language.
  • The National Park was established in 1988 following over a decade of protests by the Haida and environmentalists who were concerned about logging and environmental degradation in Haida Gwaii.
  • Since 1993, the park has been cooperatively managed by the Council of the Haida Nation and the government of Canada
  • SG̱ang Gwaay Llnaagay on Anthony Island in the southern part of the park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site of Canada in 1981
  • The park has a unique ecology and is known as the Galapagos of Canada. The temperate rainforest is home to several species found nowhere else, including the Haida Gwaii black bear.
  • There are very few facilities in the park. There are no established campgrounds or hotels. The only toilets are composting outhouses at the Haida Watchmen heritage sites.
  • Gwaii Haanas, along with the entire Haida Gwaii archipelago, is the traditional territory of the Haida people who have lived here for over 12,000 years. In pre-colonial times, there were over 30,000 Haida, but over 90% of the population died in the 1800s from smallpox. Today there are about 5,000 Haida, and they make up 50% of the population of Haida Gwaii. Gwaii Haanas is one of the best places to experience Indigenous tourism in Canada.
  • To help visitors respect this special place, the Haida Nation developed the Haida Gwaii Pledge. All visitors are encouraged to read and sign the pledge.
Composting outhouse in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve
A composting outhouses at the Hot Springs Island Haida Watchmen Heritage Site

Where is Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and How Do You Get There?

Getting to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

The only way to get to Gwaii Haanas is by boat. There are no roads in the national park.

To get to Gwaii Haanas National Park you will first need to get to the islands of Haida Gwaii, located on the northwest coast of British Columbia, Canada. Since they are islands, you can only get to Haida Gwaii by ferry or plane. My Haida Gwaii guide has all the info you need on how to get there.

The view out the window from the ferry to Haida Gwaii
Looking out the window from the ferry to Haida Gwaii

Boat access to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is either with a tour or as an independent traveller. Most tours leave from Moresby Camp, an hour’s drive from Sandspit. But a few tours leave from Daajing Giids, the main village on Haida Gwaii. If you sign up for a tour, it will include transportation to the boat dock from either Sandspit or Daajing Giids.

Launching a boat at Moresby Camp en route to Gwaii Haanas National Park
Moresby Explorers launching a zodiac at Moresby Camp en route to Gwaii Haanas National Park

Where to Stay Near Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Since most tours have an early morning departure, it makes the most sense to stay nearby.

If your tour leaves from Sandspit, I recommend the Seaport B&B. We stayed here before our Gwaii Haanas tour. It has a fun communal atmosphere and a great view of the beach from the front deck.

Sunset view from the patio of the Seaport B&B in Sandspit, BC
Sunset view from the patio of the Seaport B&B

For Daajing Giids departures, consider Premier Creek Lodging, the oldest hotel in Haida Gwaii. It has a gorgeous garden alongside a creek. Another option is Spruce Point Lodge. It has waterfront motel-style rooms with breakfast delivered each morning.

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve Map

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is huge, with dozens of islands and hundreds of kilometres of shoreline. The Parks Canada map below provides a great overview of the park. However, if you are self-guided, you will need the appropriate marine charts for navigation.

Map of Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve by Parks Canada
Parks Canada map of Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. Click here for a larger version.

Even though I was on a tour, I found it really helpful to use the Gaia GPS app on my visit. That way I could see the terrain around us and find out the names of all the little islands and bays that we passed.

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve Tours vs. Self-Guided

There are two ways to visit Gwaii Haanas National Park: on a guided tour or as an independent traveller in your sailboat, power boat or kayak. I’ve got details on both below.

Pro tip: Book your tip well in advance – popular tours sell out 6 to 12 months before departure date.

Guided Tours in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Unless you are an experienced kayak or boater, it’s best to visit Gwaii Haanas on a guided tour. It’s a huge park with lots of complicated shoreline and sometimes volatile weather. Going with a guide is the safest and most enjoyable option.

But, I’ll be straight with you: visiting Gwaii Haanas isn’t cheap. Some of the tour companies are moderately priced, but many are aimed at the luxury market. To save money, take a shorter tour or a kayak tour.

Only licensed tour operators are allowed to guide tours in Gwaii Haanas. You can find a list of current tour operators on the Parks Canada website. There are a few main types of tours:

Single Day Power Boat Tours

If you only have one day to see the park, you will need to take a power boat tour. Since these tours are single-day, they are the least expensive option. However, they are not cheap – expect to pay $300-600 per person depending on tour type.

These tours typically involve quite a lot of time on the water and not much time on land since the main sites can be a few hours apart. As well, you will only have time to visit a few of the Haida cultural sites.

The main day tour operator is Haida Style Expeditions. They are the only Indigenous-run tour company in Gwaii Haanas National Park. They have closed cabin boats. Moresby Explorers also offers a single-day tour on open zodiacs.

Multi-Day Power Boat Tours

The main operator in this category is Moresby Explorers, the tour company I chose. They offer 2-4 day tours in open zodiacs with accommodation at their floating lodge at the northern boundary of Haida Gwaii or at a very rustic B&B in Rose Harbour. Expect to pay $1200-$2500 depending on tour length.

I loved my tour with Moresby Explorers. Our guide Jamie was incredible. His enthusiasm for the landscape and culture was infectious. We really felt like we were getting an insider’s tour of the park. The food at the floating lodge was also incredible. Chef Ash and her assistant Dani made such a feast.

If you are going to do a tour in Gwaii Haanas National Park, the Moresby Explorers 4-Day tour is my number one pick!

Moresby Explorers boat moored in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
Moresby Explorers boat moored on at one of the many beaches we stopped at.

Multi-Day Sailing Tours

Sailing tours are the most luxurious (and therefore the most expensive) tours in Gwaii Haanas National Park. Expect to pay about $5000 to $8000 per person for a week-long tour. These are truly bucket list tours with high-end chefs, on-board naturalists, and even airfare from Vancouver included.

Sailboat tour in Gwaii Haanas National Park
Sailboat from Maple Leaf Adventures anchored near Hot Springs Island

Multi-Day Kayaking Tours

The next time I go to Haida Gwaii, I want to do a kayaking tour. I had an incredible experience kayaking with whales in the Johnstone Strait off the coast of Northern Vancouver Island, and I can’t wait to kayak in Gwaii Haanas National Park.

There are several kayak tour companies licensed to operate in the National Park. Tours are typically five to eight days long and range from about $2000 to $3500 per person. Accommodation is in rustic campsites with no facilities – not even outhouses.

Many tours use a kayak shuttle service where a power boat shuttles the kayaks, gear, and tour group participants into the farther reaches of the park. This means you can concentrate on seeing a specific portion of the park, not paddling long days between sites.

Kayak Mothershipping

Before researching my trip to Haida Gwaii, I had never heard the term “kayak mothershipping”. It refers to travelling on a power boat or sailboat with kayaks on the deck, and then going kayaking from there. Each night you sleep on the power boat or sailboat.

It is a much more comfortable experience than the kayak tours in the park since you won’t be camping. Some tour operators are fancy with chefs on board, while others are more communal, with guests working together to cook meals and perform boat chores. Prices range accordingly, from $4000 all the way up to $10,000 for a week-long tour.

Gwaii Haanas National Park Fees and Reservations

If you are travelling independently, you must make reservations and pay fees to enter Gwaii Haanas National Park. Reservations for the following summer open each year in February.

You must also attend an orientation session, offered most mornings at the park headquarters near Skidegate. Find more info about fees and reservations for independent visitors on the park website.

If you are visiting the park as part of a guided tour, your National Park fees and reservations are included as part of your tour and you don’t need to worry about it.

How Much Time to Spend in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is huge so you will need to set aside some time to see it. It is possible to see the highlights in one or two days if you don’t have the time or budget for a longer trip.

However, to see all the Haida cultural sites as well as have time for wildlife watching and visiting some of the out-of-the-way corners of the park, plan to spend at least four days in the park. Most Gwaii Haanas National Park tours are four to eight days long to ensure that guests get the best experience.

When to Visit Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

The best time to go to Gwaii Haanas National Park is between May and September when the weather is nicest. Most tour companies do not run outside of those months.

July and August are the busiest months since they have the best weather. I went in June and we enjoyed mostly sunny weather. As well, most of the attractions were pretty quiet.

The best months for whale watching are May and September.

Summer in Haida Gwaii can be cool and wet. The driest months are driest months are May, June, and July. August and September are also relatively dry. But you should expect rain at any time. July and August are the warmest months with daily temperatures of 10-18°C (50-64°F). May, June, and September are a little cooler.

A fog bank in Haida Gwaii
Even on sunny days, cold fog can roll in at any time

Visiting Haida Watchman Sites

There are five Haida Watchmen sites in Gwaii Haanas National Park. These are the main Haida cultural sites in the park. In pre-colonial times, Haida villages often had watchmen to warn citizens of approaching enemies.

The contemporary Watchmen program began in 1981 as a volunteer program, before the park was formed as a way for the Haida to attempt to safeguard their traditional territory against logging and poaching of the carvings and other cultural items.

In the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, the BC government stole monumental poles from K’uuna, SGangwaay, and T’aanuu. The government wanted to protect and preserve the poles in museums. Since the 1970s, the government has returned some of the stolen poles to the Haida.

Today the Haida Watchmen are paid employees of Parks Canada and the Council of the Haida Nation. Each Haida Watchmen site is staffed by two watchmen (who can be of any gender despite the term watchmen). Watchmen can be as young as 16 or in their 70s. They live in small off-the-grid cabins on site and provide tours to visitors.

Haida Watchmen cabin at Kuuna (Skedans)
Walking past the Watchmen cabin on our tour at K’uuna

How to Show Respect at Haida Watchmen Sites

You must act respectfully when visiting Haida Watchmen sites. These are important places of culture and history. Here are my tips for showing respect:

  • Listen carefully. It is a privilege to be here and hear the Haida stories. The Haida Watchmen may choose which parts of their own, their clan’s or their Nation’s oral history to share. Each visit is unique.
  • Stay on the paths, which are outlined with shells. What may look like a log to you may be a fallen house pole or monumental pole, so watch where you step.
  • Do not take photos of anything without permission, including of the Watchmen themselves. The Watchmen know the best spots to take pictures and will let you know.
  • If you wish, bring a small gift. In coastal Indigenous cultures gift giving is an important part of diplomacy and respect – it is rude to arrive empty-handed. (You will learn about potlatch culture from the Watchmen.) Bringing a gift is not required or even expected, but it is polite. If you bring a gift, keep it small and consider bringing something from your hometown or culture. We brought handmade chocolate bars made by a local shop in our hometown of Squamish.
Shells outline the walking path at Kuuna
Shells outline the walking paths at K’uuna (Skedans)

Things to Do in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

If you are on a tour in Gwaii Haanas, your guide will set your itinerary and make sure that see you all the major sites. But here’s a brief run-down of the major things to do and see.

SGang Gwaay

SGang Gwaay is the most famous site in Gwaii Haanas National Park. It is pronounced “ss-gang gwhy”. In Haida, the name means Wailing Island because sometimes the tides push air through a hole in a rock nearby and it sounds like a crying woman. It is also called Ninstints (or Nan Sdins) after a famous chief who lived here in the mid-1800s.

The site is located on Anthony Island near the southern tip of the park. It can be hard to reach in bad weather since it is so remote. On my trip, we battled through waves and a huge fog bank to get there.

SGang Gwaay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site to protect the remains of Haida houses and mortuary and memorial poles (which are often incorrectly called totem poles). Unlike other sites in Gwaii Haanas, many of the poles are still standing.

Sgang Gwaay Heritage Site in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
The standing memorial poles at SGang Gwaay are so powerful in person

This is one of the five Haida Watchmen sites in Gwaii Haanas. When you arrive, one of the Watchmen will take you on a walking tour of the site. SGang Gwaay is the largest Watchmen site, with a 1.5 km loop trail that heads through the forest, then along the beach to the village site.

Map of SGang Gwaay UNESCO World Heritage Site in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve
Map of SGang Gwaay from Parks Canada. Click here for a larger version.

Your Watchman guide will explain Haida culture and give you lots of information about the history of the village site and the cultural significance of the monumental poles.

Long house remains and monumental poles at SGang Gwaay
Long house remains and standing monumental poles at SGang Gwaay

For many people, SGang Gwaay is the most special place in Gwaii Haanas National Park. I found the whole experience very moving.

Our guide was a 17-year-old Haida girl who had just finished high school and was working as a Watchman before heading off to university. It was interesting to see Haida culture continuing through the generations and to witness the juxtaposition of carrying on an ancient culture while also living in the modern world.

A Haida guide wearing a cedar hat leads a tour group through the forest at SGang Gwaay in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve
Following our guide through the forest at SGang Gwaay

K’uuna (Skedans)

While K’uuna is usually visited as part of a trip to Gwaii Haanas National Park, it’s not actually in the park. Instead, it is part of K’unna Gwaay Conservancy, protected by BC Parks and also part of the Haida Heritage Site, protected by the Haida Watchmen.

A leaning potlatch pole at K'unna
This leaning pole at K’unna is a chief’s potlatch pole. Each ring represents a potlatch that the chief hosted.

K’unna is a former village site located on the northern side of Louise Island, just north of the National Park boundary. Sometimes spelled Koona, the site is also known as Skedans, which is the English name for the Haida village site there. It is believed that Skedans comes from the name of the village chief in the late 1800s, Gida’nsta. In Haida, K’unna means “edge” and Llnagaay means “village”, so its name means village on the edge.

The village was abandoned amid the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s. Today you can see the remains of a few long houses as well as some monumental poles and carvings. The Haida Watchmen will guide you around the site.

In the early 1900s, Canadian artist Emily Carr visited K’uuna. Her paintings of the monumental poles still standing at that time sparked broader interest in Haida art and culture.

Skedans, by Emily Carr, painted in 1912
Skedans by Emily Carr, painted in 1912. Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

T’aanuu (Tanu)

T’aanuu is another former Haida village site that is now a Haida Watchmen site. It is a designated National Historic Site of Canada. In Haida, the village’s name means eel grass, since there is so much sea grass near the village.

It is located on Tanu Island at the very northern edge of Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve.

Haida Watchmen will guide you around the site to show you the remains of long houses and monumental poles. You can also visit the headstone of Bill Reid (Iljuwas), one of the most significant Haida artists. His carvings are famous throughout Canada.

Remains of a longhouse pit at Tannu
Remains of longhouse pit at T’aanuu

We happened to visit at low tide and the Watchmen showed us a unique clearing in the rocks exposed by the low water. They explained that the Haida had likely used it as an octopus farm, allowing the octopuses to mature in the rock piles, and then harvesting them once they were big enough to eat.

A Haida octopus farm at Tanu in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
An old octopus farm exposed at low tide. The octopuses would have lived in the three rock piles.

Hot Springs Island

Having a soak at Hot Springs Island is a must when you visit Gwaii Haanas National Park. In Haida, the island is known as Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay. It’s one of the best hot springs in Canada.

Soaking at Hot Springs Island in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
The pools at Hot Springs Island have an incredible view

The Haida Watchmen act as caretakers of the site, cleaning the tubs and providing info about the area. In pre-colonial times the island was home to shamans and was very spiritually significant to the Haida. However, most of the Haida population perished during the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s. The shamans were the most involved in attempting to heal the sick, so unfortunately, today the Haida are not sure what kind of cultural practices occurred on Hot Springs Island.

You can visit Hot Springs Island for an hour-long soak in the hot pools. There are changing cubicles at the entrance. You must take a hot shower in the shower building before you get into the springs.

The shower house and change rooms at Hot Springs Island
Looking down to the shower house and change rooms from the hot pools

There are three hot pools built into the rock. Each one is fairly small and can fit 3-6 people. The one next to the shower building has the lowest temperature. The two pools set into the hillside above the changing hut have the best views but the one at the top is scorching hot.

In October 2012, a 7.8 magnitude earthquake struck Haida Gwaii and the hot pools mysteriously drained. Over the next few years, hot water slowly returned to the island. The current pools opened in 2017. Parks Canada staff don’t know where the water on Hot Springs Island comes from but they think it may be groundwater from nearby Lyell Island.

Windy Bay

Known as Hlk’yah GawG̱a in Haida, Windy Bay is another Haida Watchmen site. But unlike the other Watchmen sites, this place is not famous for its historical value but rather for more recent events. In the 1980s, the Haida became concerned at the pace of logging in their traditional territory. They began a protest movement that ultimately resulted in the preservation of Gwaii Haanas and the co-management of the area by the Haida along with the government.

During the protests, the Haida built a longhouse at Windy Bay, called “Looking Around and Blinking House”. It housed Haida protestors and today you can tour the interior.

In 2013, the Haida, along with Parks Canada staff and other volunteers raised a huge monumental pole at Windy Bay, the first one in Gwaii Haanas in 130 years. Called the Legacy Pole, the pole honours the 20th anniversary of cooperative management between Canada and the Haida Nation. Look for the Haida Watchmen depicted at the top of the pole.

The memorial pole and watchmen cabin at Windy Bay in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
The memorial pole, Haida Watchmen cabin, and long house at Windy Bay

On the other side of the creek from the longhouse and Legacy Pole, there is a short trail to a huge old-growth Sitka spruce which is about 900 years old.

Massive Sitka spruce tree at Windy Bay
The massive Sitka spruce tree at Windy Bay is sometimes called the Grandmother Tree.

Wildlife Watching

Gwaii Haanas National Park is famous for its wildlife watching. With lots of narrow channels and rocky islands, you can spot tons of marine life.

Whales and Marine Life

Whales and dolphins are very common. Grey and humpback whales migrate through the islands each spring and fall. Orcas (killer whales), Minke whales, dolphins, and porpoises live in the National Park year-round. Your guide will get intel over the radio from other guides when whales or dolphins are spotted so you will have the best chance of seeing them.

While whale sightings aren’t guaranteed, you will definitely see seals and sea lions. Several of the rocky islets are home to huge seal and sea lion colonies. They haul themselves out of the water to rest so they are easy to spot. The huge male sea lions are fun to watch as they bark and growl at each other.

A sea lion colony on a rocky islet in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
We spent a long time watching the sea lions on this rocky islet. They were hilarious as they flopped around and growled at each other.

There’s also a whole underwater world to discover. Our guide nosed our boat up against cliffs to see purple starfish clinging to rocks and anemones swaying in the current. I loved watching jellyfish pulse below the surface from the dock of the floating lodge. And the slow trip through the kelp forests of Burnaby Narrows was magical.

Birds

You should also keep an eye out for tons of bird species. If you aren’t a bird nerd before going to Gwaii Haanas, you will be after your trip! On my trip, we spotted lots of bald eagles. We also saw lots of black oystercatchers, cormorants, ancient murrelets, and pigeon guillemots. The most exciting part for me was seeing a pair of tufted puffins. So cute!

Bears

I was surprised to learn that Haida Gwaii has its own sub-species of black bears (Ursus americanus carlottae). They are a bit bigger than black bears in the rest of BC since they feed on a high-fat diet of salmon and shellfish. Spotting black bears on the beaches is common. If you visit in September, you might also see bears at river mouths gorging on spawning salmon.

Rose Harbour

Rose Harbour is surrounded by Gwaii Haanas National Park, but it is actually a private in-holding within the park. It is the only private property within the park. The small settlement was founded as a whaling station in 1910. Whaling operations ended in the 1940s and the land was sold to a group of ten friends in 1976.

Since then, the original ten friends and their descendants have built homes at Rose Harbour. Most are summer-only places, but there are a few year-round residents. It’s an interesting place to explore (with the permission of the owners).

With advance booking, you can stay at the very rustic Rose Harbour Guest House. I stayed there for one night on my four-day tour with Moresby Explorers. Goetz, the eccentric owner, built the guest house himself, mostly from salvaged materials. He also has a huge (and fascinating) organic garden next door.

Buildings at Rose Harbour at low tide
Rose Harbour at low tide. The guest house is on the right.

You can also have a meal at the cookhouse (again with advance booking). For years, Susan, one of the original Rose Harbour owners, offered incredible meals in her home kitchen. But these days her daughter Frances serves food out of the newly built cookhouse. Much of the produce is grown in Susan’s huge garden!

A group of people sits around a table at the cookhouse at Rose Harbour
Sitting down to dinner at the Cookhouse in Rose Harbour

Old-Growth Forests

While the northern part of the National Park was logged in the 1970s and 80s, most of the park is full of pristine old-growth forest. It’s a coastal rainforest ecosystem, with tons of western Hemlock interspersed with Sitka spruce and Western red cedar.

A group explores a stand of old-growth Western red cedar in Gwaii Haanas National Park
Exploring an incredible stand of old-growth Western red cedar

You can go ashore at pretty much any beach and wander into the forest to see giant old-growth trees. But if you go with a guide, they will take you to some of the most impressive specimens, which can be over 200 ft (61 m) tall.

Abandoned Logging Camp

Although it is not inside the national park, Aero Camp is a common place to stop. It’s located a few minutes by water from Moresby Camp, the launch point for boat tours to Gwaii Haanas.

Abandoned wharf at Aero Camp in Haida Gwaii
The abandoned wharf at Aero Camp is huge.

Aero Camp was a huge logging camp in from the 1930s until the late 1960s. It had a logging railroad and a post office. Today the huge pilings on the beach hint at how large the camp was. If you go ashore, you can explore abandoned machinery, trucks, and a storage tank that you can crawl inside.

Abandoned car at Aero Camp
One of the many abandoned cars

Kayaking

Haida Gwaii is known for its incredible kayaking. With so much varied shoreline with hundreds of islands and peninsulas, Gwaii Haanas National Park is a great place for a kayak trip.

If you are an experienced kayaker, you can plan your own expedition to the park. However, you will need to make reservations and go through a mandatory park orientation. As well, since distances in the park are so great, many paddlers pay to have their kayaks transported by motor boat deeper into the park so they can maximize time at the best scenery.

Most of the tour operators in Gwaii Haanas National Park offer kayaking, either as an expedition-style kayak trip with camping or day trips from motor boats or sailboats. On my trip with Moresby Explorers, we were able to kayak in the evenings in the quiet bay around their floating lodge.

Kayaking in calm water in Gwaii Hanaas National Park
Kayaking outside the Moresby Explorers floating lodge

Fishing

People travel from all over the world to fish in Haida Gwaii. You can catch salmon, halibut, lingcod, rockfish, and more. Remember that you will need a Tidal Waters Sport Fishing License, which you can buy online.

You can only fish in saltwater in Gwaii Haanas and many areas have fishing restrictions or closures, so it is important to read maps carefully.

Most tour operators in the National Park can incorporate fishing into your visit, but you may have to request it.

Hiking

Since Gwaii Haanas is mostly a marine National Park, there are few hiking trails in the park. The only established trails are the short ones at the Haida Watchmen sites.

Besides the Watchmen sites, there are no hiking trails in Gwaii Haanas National Park. If you explore inland away from the beaches, you will find thick coastal rainforest and steep terrain.

View from the top of a waterfall in a remote part of Haida Gwaii
With no trails in the park, we bushwhacked to the top of this small waterfall

Where to Stay in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

There are no hotels inside Gwaii Haanas National Park. However, there are two rustic lodges located just outside the park boundary. The easiest way to arrange accommodation is to go with a tour. Below I’ve got a breakdown of where to stay in Gwaii Haanas National Park

Camping

There are no formal campgrounds in Gwaii Haanas National Park. However, you are permitted to camp on beaches in most of the park. (A few areas are closed to camping.) But you should expect no facilities. That means no toilets, garbage cans, picnic tables, or even level tent sites.

Most of the campers in the national park are kayakers, either travelling independently or on tours. If you go with a kayak guide, they can recommend the best beaches for camping.

Live-Aboard

Many independent visitors and tour participants stay on board their vessels inside the park. There are lots of sheltered bays to anchor. Facilities vary by tour vessel, but you can expect bunks or small rooms with shared toilets.

Lodges

There are two lodges located just outside the boundaries of the national park.

The first is the Rose Harbour Guest House, located in the southern part of the park. It is the only private land within the National Park. Anyone can stay here with an advance booking.

It is very rustic with a shared outhouse outside. However, it does have a wood-fired hot shower. Some kayak tours and longer tours from Moresby Explorers spend a night here. I stayed here as part of my Moresby Explorers tour. It’s eclectic and definitely an interesting place to visit!

View out the window from a room at the Rose Harbour Guest House
The view from my tiny and basic loft bedroom at the Rose Harbour Guest House

The other lodge is the Moresby Explorers floating lodge located just north of the park boundary in Crescent Inlet. The only way to stay here is to take part in a Moresby Explorers tour. The two-story floating lodge has simple bedrooms and shared bathrooms with flush toilets and running water. Unfortunately, they don’t have showers. But, the food is incredible!

The Moresby Explorers floating lodge in Gwaii Haanas National Park
The Moresby Explorers floating lodge

What to Pack for Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

If you go on a tour in Haida Gwaii, they usually provide some gear. For boat tours, operators provide rain gear, rubber boots, and insulated float coats, which double as life jackets. Check with your tour operator to see what they provide and what they expect you to bring – most tours will give you a packing list.

Two people wearing float coats and rain pants take photos at SGang Gwaay
My friends take pictures at SGang Gwaay while wearing the float coats and rain pants that our tour provided. They are wearing their own hiking boots, which are more comfortable to walk in than the rubber boots we wore on the boat.

In general, here are a few things you should pack for Gwaii Haanas National Park:

  • Even if your tour gives you a float coat, you should still pack your own rain jacket. The float coats are heavy and warm, so you might want to walk around in your own rain jacket when you are on land.
  • Warm layers. It can be cold in Haida Gwaii, especially out on the water. Bring long underwear and a warm fleece or lightweight puffy jacket.
  • Quick-dry hiking clothing.
  • Hiking boots or trail runners.
  • Sunglasses
  • Camera
  • Binoculars
  • Sunscreen
  • Bathing suit and quick dry towel for Hot Springs Island
A carved memorial pole at SGang Gwaay
The carved poles at SGang Gwaay are so powerful in person

So that’s everything you need to know to plan a trip to Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii. This was an incredible bucket list experience for me and I’m sure it will be for you too!

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