More Destinations Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/category/destinations/more-destinations/ Sharing advice, info and inspiration about my happy place: the Great Outdoors. Tue, 08 Oct 2024 19:55:43 +0000 en-CA hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3 https://happiestoutdoors.ca/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/cropped-favicon@3x-32x32.png More Destinations Archives - Dawn Outdoors https://dawnoutdoors.com/category/destinations/more-destinations/ 32 32 The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Stockholm Subway Art https://dawnoutdoors.com/stockholm-subway-art/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/stockholm-subway-art/#comments Sun, 19 May 2024 02:32:29 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=4233 A few years ago, I unexpectedly had a chance to go to Stockholm. I went not knowing what to expect and came home totally in love with this quirky and beautiful city. Besides exploring the old town (OMG so many gorgeous narrow streets), my favorite part of Stockholm was learning about Swedish culture. Apparently art …

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A few years ago, I unexpectedly had a chance to go to Stockholm. I went not knowing what to expect and came home totally in love with this quirky and beautiful city. Besides exploring the old town (OMG so many gorgeous narrow streets), my favorite part of Stockholm was learning about Swedish culture.

Apparently art is really important in Sweden. They have long, dark winters so I guess it gives them lots of time to spend inside being creative. And art is so important that Stockholm has literally covered their subway stations with art!

On my trip I spent a day riding the subway all over town, marveling at all this beautiful art… as commuters rushed by. I’ve put together an awesome self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art for you.

It visits 12 of the most beautiful stations close to the city center. And as bonus I’ve included a side trip to the dreamiest round library. There’s a map and step-by-step directions so I promise you can’t get lost.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

READ NEXT: 30 Photos of Stockholm That Will Inspire You to Visit

Stockholm Subway Basics

Stockholm’s subway system opened in 1950 and currently has 100 stations. It is often called the world’s longest art gallery since 90 of the stations are decorated with art.

While in other countries it might be called the metro, subway, or underground, in Swedish it is referred to as the T-bana, short for tunnelbana. It translates to” tunnel railway”.

There are three main lines: red, blue and green.

Self-Guided Stockholm Subway Art Tour Tips

Art at Radhuset Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

Tour Length

Allow about 2 hours to follow the entire Stockholm Subway Art Tour itinerary.

Best Times to Take the Stockholm Subway Art Tour

The best time to take this self-guided Stockholm subway art tour is on a weekday in the middle of the day. That way you miss rush hour and have plenty of time to take photos in the stations.

I went on a Thursday morning around 10:30am and as you can see from my photos, I encountered very few other people. You could also try a weeknight late at night since the stations are open until 12:30am.

Stockholm Subway Art Tour Itinerary

I’ve put together an itinerary for you that visits some of the most photogenic stations in the city center. (There are other awesome stations further out, but they take much more time to visit so I haven’t included them.) On this tour you will visit twelve stations:

Red Line:

  • T-Centralen
  • Stadion
  • Tekniska Högskolan
  • Universitetet

Green Line:

  • Hötorget
  • Odenplan (Stockholm Public Library)
  • Thorildsplan
  • Fridhemslplan

Blue Line:

  • Solna Centrum
  • Hallonbergen
  • Radhuset
  • Kungsträdgården
  • T-Centralen

Stockholm Subway Art Tour Map and Directions

I’ve included directions in the tour below. There are clear signs in all stations showing where to go and when the trains are coming. It’s probably one of the easiest subway systems I’ve ever navigated.

I’ve also put together an awesome custom google map for you. (Because I heart maps!)

Stockholm Subway Art Map
Click to open in Google Maps

Stockholm Subway Tickets

A single use ticket for the Stockholm T-bana is valid for 75 minutes. However, that’s not enough time to do the whole tour.

If don’t want to buy a longer ticket, heres’ how you can make the tour shorter: Skip the side trip to the public library and the Solna Centrum and Hallonbergen stops on the blue line since they are a bit further out.

However, I recommend you get a 24 hour pass so you can take your time and really explore the stations. If you get the 24 hour pass you can combine your self-guided Stockholm subway art tour with another transit-friendly destination such as exploring Sodermalm or taking one of the ferries from Nybroviken and Djurgården.

As of May 2024, the price for a single use ticket is 42SEK ($3.92USD/3.60Euro) and a 24 hour pass is 175SEK ($16.33USD/14.99Euro). Check the latest prices on Stockholm’s transit website sl.se.

You can either buy electronic ticket cards at the entrance to each station or use the SL app to buy tickets. Then you can scan your ticket or phone at the entrance to stations.

Art Viewing Tips for the Stockholm Subway

There is art all over the place in these stations so make sure you explore around so you don’t miss something. At each station walk the length of each platform and venture up the escalators towards the exits. You can even go through the fare gates and re-enter as long as your ticket still has time on it.

The trains run every 2 to 10 minutes during the day. Digital displays on the platforms will let you know when the next train is coming. At some stations you’ll have enough time to get off and explore before the next train arrives, but at most you’ll probably watch a few trains go by before you’re ready to leave.

Tips for Photographing the Stockholm Subway Art

It’s easy to take photos of the stations with any camera or phone. However, it can be a bit dark in some areas which makes for tricky photography conditions.

If you’re a serious photographer, consider bringing a DSLR on a tripod and shooting longer exposures. I brought my mini Gorillapod tripod and used it for some of the shots.

If you don’t have a fancy camera or a tripod, try to stand as still as possible while you shoot. Or try bracing your camera or phone against a wall or bench for even better stability.

The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Stockholm’s Subway Art

Okay, so you’ve packed your camera, you’ve bought your subway ticket and you’re ready. Let’s go explore Stockholm’s subway art!

START your tour at T-Centralen Station and head to the platform for the red and green lines.

T-Centralen Station

All three of Stockholm’s subway lines (red, blue and green) go through through T-Centralen Station. It’s also connected to the commuter and long distance railway lines so it’s a bustling place.

The platform for the red and green lines dates back to 1957 and features geometric tiles. (The blue line platform is a bit more photogenic, but don’t worry: you’ll visit it at the end of the tour).

Art at T-Centralen Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Art at T-Centralen Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

GO NORTH on the RED LINE to Stadion (Be sure to get on a train that terminates at Mörby Centrum.  The red line also has another norther branch that goes to Ropsten – don’t take that one! )

Stadion Station

Opened in 1973, Stadion was one of the first “cave” stations, carved right out of the bedrock. To combat fears that the caves would be depressing, artists Åke Pallarp and Enno Hallek gave the station a rainbow theme.

Art at Stadion Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Art at Stadion Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

GO NORTH one stop to Tekniska Högskolan Station

Tekniska Högskolan Station

This station serves the Royal Institute of Technology, so it’s no surprise that the art in this station is science themed. My favourite part is the large glass polyhedron in the centre of the station.

Art at Tekniska Hogskolan Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Art at Tekniska Hogskolan Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

GO NORTH one stop to Universitetet Station

Universitetet Station

Universitetet station sits below Stockholm University. The main feature of the station are tile panels outlining the travels of Carl Linnaeus, a Swede who is known as the father of the modern taxonomy of organisms.

Art at Universitetet Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Art at Universitetet Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

GO SOUTH back to T-Centralen

At T-Centralen, SWITCH TO THE GREEN LINE

GO EAST one stop to Hötorget

Hötorget Station

This is one of the original stations on Stockholm’s T-Bana, built in the 1950s. It had plain tile walls and no art at all until artist Gun Gordillo added a neon lighting installation to the ceiling in 1998. The rest of the station is pure 1950s,  retro signage, benches and all.

Art at Hotorget Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Hötorget Station by Balazs Szanto on Flickr. Used under CC BY-SA 2.0.

GO EAST two stops to Odenplan

Odenplan Station and the Stockholm Public Library

Note: As of June 2024, the Stockholm Public Library is closed for renovations which will take several years. I’ll update the post once it re-opens.

Odenplan station is nothing special. It’s an older station and doesn’t have any notable art. However, if you get off the subway and walk two blocks east down Odengatan, you’ll reach the Stockholm Public Library. 

Opened in 1928, this beautiful building has a gorgeous 3 story reading room in the rotunda that is worth a visit. (Plus it’s totally free and they don’t mind photography as long as you are quick, quiet, and don’t use a flash.) After you’ve visited the library, head back to Odenplan station.

Stockholm's Public Library. Find out how to visit the library and 12 art-filled subway stations on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

GO EAST  three stops to Thorildsplan

Thorildsplan Station

Like many of the stations, Thorildsplan uses tiles. However, these are not normal boring tiles. At Thorildsplan, artist Lars Arrhenius used the tiles to create whimsical 8-bit video game inspired art.

See if you can spot characters and scenery from Super Mario Brothers, Space Invaders, PacMan and more. Thorildsplan is an above-ground outdoor station – the only one you’ll visit on this tour.

Art at Thorildsplan Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Art at Thorildsplan Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

GO WEST one stop to Fridhemsplan

READ NEXT: The Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm

Fridhemsplan Station

The art at Fridhemsplan doesn’t have a clear theme: There’s a ship in a display box and also some robots with flowers. But the real reason your self-guided tour of the Stockholm subway stops here is to switch from the green line to the blue line. There’s a 200m tunnel connecting the green and blue line platforms

Art at Fridhemsplan Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Fridhemsplan by Ingolf from Berlin, Deutschland (Stockholm – Tunnelbana – Fridhemsplan) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons
Art at Fridhemsplan Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Fridhemsplan by Ingolf from Berlin, Deutschland (Stockholm – Tunnelbana – Fridhemsplan) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

SWITCH TO THE BLUE LINE

GO NORTH to Solna Centrum  (Be sure to get on a train that terminates at Akalla.  The blue line also has another northern branch that goes to Hjulsta – don’t take that one! )

Solna Centrum Station

The art at Solna Centrum station depicts the a red orange sunset behind the green of the Swedish forests. Artists Karl-Olov Björk and Anders Åberg then free-handed hundreds of little drawings onto the walls.

They depict important political issues including deforestation, the environment and the influx of people to the cities from rural areas. There are some humorous scenes if you hunt for them, like the angry moose menacing an unsuspecting hiker, below.

Art at Solna Centrum Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Art at Solna Centrum Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

GO NORTH two stops to Hallonbergen

Hallonbergen Station

If the art at Hallonbergen Station looks like it was made by children… that’s because it was! Artists Elis Eriksson and Gösta Wallmark actually used their own childhood drawings and their children’s art to cover the walls of the station. 

The whimsical nature of the station seems appropriate since in Swedish Hallonbergen translates to Raspberry Hill.

Art at Hallonbergen Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Hallonbergen Station by Daniel Mott on Flickr. Used under CC BY-SA 2.0.
Art at Hallonbergen Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Hallonbergen Station by Vargklo~commonswiki on Wikimedia Commons used under CC BY-SA 2.5

GO SOUTH to Radhuset

Radhuset Station

The Radhuset Station is located underneath the Stockholm Courthouse. The station has exposed bedrock, painted reddish orange and has some interesting art objects mounted on the walls and ceilings. (Check out the metal shoes in the photo below!)

Art at Radhuset Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Art at Radhuset Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

GO EAST two stops to Kungsträdgården

Kungsträdgården Station

I saved Kungsträdgården station for the end of the tour since it has the most to see. The first thing you’ll notice is the red, white and green colour scheme.

Next you’ll probably notice the sculptures: there are reclaimed pieces of sculpture from demolished buildings around Stockholm embedded in the walls and in a dedicated display area. There’s also a crazy mosaic ceiling detail.

Oh and this is the only station with live inhabitants: apparently there is a type of fungus and a type of cave spider that live in the station and nowhere else. Pretty weird!

Art at Kungstradgarden Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Art at Kungstradgarden Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

GO WEST one stop to T-Centralen

T-Centralen Station

Your tour ends on the blue line platform of the T-Centralen station. Artist Per Olof Ultvedt painted this station on the blue line with a variety of blue motifs. Other parts of the station honour the workers who built the station – you can see their painted silhouettes on the ceilings and walls.

Art at T-Centralen Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.
Art at T-Centralen Station on the Stockholm subway. Find out how to visit this station and 11 others on a self-guided tour of Stockholm subway art.

Thanks for sticking with me through this self-guided tour of Stockholm’s subway art! If you’re looking for more things to do in Stockholm be sure to check out my self-guided tour of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s historic old town.

Read Next:

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What to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek https://dawnoutdoors.com/what-to-pack-annapurna-base-camp/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/what-to-pack-annapurna-base-camp/#comments Tue, 13 Feb 2018 05:48:42 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=3437 When I was planning Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal, I wasn’t sure exactly what to pack. I had done lots of overnight hiking and camping trips at home in Canada but I’d never trekked in the Himalayas and I wasn’t sure what to expect. What would the weather be like? What kind of things …

The post What to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek appeared first on Dawn Outdoors.

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When I was planning Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal, I wasn’t sure exactly what to pack. I had done lots of overnight hiking and camping trips at home in Canada but I’d never trekked in the Himalayas and I wasn’t sure what to expect. What would the weather be like? What kind of things did I need to bring for staying in teahouses? What could I buy in Nepal and what did I need to bring from home? Now that I’ve spent 10 days trekking, I know exactly what I’d pack next time (and what I reeeeeally wish I’d brought when I trekked). So here it is: a super extensive list of what to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

Essentials to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Trekking Permits

You need a TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) card and a ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) trekking permit to do the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. You will need to show these permits at a few checkpoints along the trail. Pack them inside a Ziploc bag to protect them.

Cash

If you are taking a package tour with a guide, you won’t need to bring much cash since your accommodation and meals are covered. You might want to pack a few hundred rupees per day for snacks or hot showers. If you are trekking independently you will need enough rupees to pay for all your meals and accommodations for your whole trek – plan on about 3000-3500 Nepali rupees per person per day. There are no banks or ATMs anywhere on the trek.

Map and Guide Book

You’ll want to plan out your route each day, especially since there are lots of options for getting to Annapurna Base Camp. Even if you hire a guide (and I think you should), pack a map and a guidebook to help you choose your route (and make sure you don’t get lost). If the guidebook is too heavy, you can buy an electronic copy or just take photos of the relevant pages and look at the on your phone.

I recommend: Buy your maps in Kathmandu or Pokhara. The best guidebook I’ve found is Lonely Planet Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya 10th Ed. (Looking for things to do in Pokhara before or after your trek? Here’s a great guide to Pokhara.)

READ NEXT: Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp

Backpacks and Bags to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Hiker wearing a backpack near Machapuchare Base Camp. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Greg wearing his Boreas Lost Coast 60 backpack on the way down to Machapuchare Base Camp.

Backpack

You’ll want to pack all your gear for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek inside a backpack. Something between 35 and 55L is probably a good size. Be sure to do a test pack at home to make sure all your gear fits. If you don’t plan to hire a porter, make sure you choose a backpack that fits you well and is comfortable to carry.

I recommend: My husband and I both used Boreas Lost Coast 60 backpacks on the trek. We love this pack, but sadly it’s discontinued. I also like my Gregory Jade 53 and it also comes in a smaller 38L size. The men’s version is the Zulu

Day Pack (Needed If You Hire a Porter)

If you are going to use a porter on your trek, the porter will carry your big backpack (or provide you with a duffle to pack your stuff inside) and you’ll need to carry a smaller day pack on the trail every day. Choose one that’s about 20L in size: big enough to carry water, a first aid kit, snacks and extra clothes in case it warms up or cools down.

I recommend: I use my Gregory Maya 22 day pack for most of my day hikes and I would have brought it to Annapurna Base Camp if we had hired a porter. It’s a women’s specific pack. The men’s equivalent is the Miwok 24.

Duffle Bag with Lock

You probably brought a bunch of clothes and other stuff to Nepal that you don’t want to bring on your trek. Bring a collapsible duffle bag with a lock so you can leave your extra stuff with your hotel in Pokhara.

I recommend: I used an airline tote that is designed to protect your backpack when you check it on the plane, but then can double as a duffle to store your stuff. Osprey makes good airline totes. Bring some simple travel locks to deter theft. 

Stuff Sacks and Organizers

To stay organized I like to pack my gear in a combination of different sized stuff sacks. I also bring lots of Ziploc freezer bags to keep wet gear separated and keep electronics dry and protected.

Nepali guide wearing a plastic sheet as a rain cover at Annapurna Base Camp. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Our guide Chandra wearing a Nepali rain gear/pack cover combo: plastic sheeting.

Rain Protection

If your gear gets wet, it can really ruin your trip. I trekked to Annapurna Base Camp at the end of monsoon season and it rained a lot. I brought a rain cover for my backpack and also brought a couple big black garbage bags to wrap up gear inside my pack. You can also protect your gear from rain the Nepali way: with plastic sheeting.

I recommend: Some packs come with a custom sized rain cover. If yours didn’t, buy a lightweight silnylon rain cover that fits your pack well.

Clothing to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Hiking pants or tights (1 or 2)

Choose quick-drying hiking pants made of nylon or polyester (and maybe with a bit of spandex for stretch). My husband likes convertible pants that zip off into shorts, but I don’t find them that comfortable. Like a lot of women, I sometimes hike in running tights. If you do choose to wear tights in Nepal, respect the local culture by wearing them with a longer top that covers your crotch and butt. You can get away with one pair of pants, but you’ll be happier with two so you can air one pair out while wearing the other.

I recommend: I love my MEC Terrena Stretch pants. I also like the Prana Halle Pants. For guys, my husband recommends the MEC Mica Pants. If you like convertible pants, the Prana Stretch Zions are a great option.

Shorts (optional)

Most treks in Nepal start at a low elevation in the humid jungle. Unless you are trekking in the winter, you’ll likely have a few very hot days. You may want a pair of quick drying hiking shorts for this type of weather. Bring shorts that hit just above the knee: short shorts are a no-no in Nepal.

I recommend: It’s easy to find longer length hiking shorts for guys, but it can be a challenge for women. The Black Diamond Valley Shorts are my favourite hiking shorts. They’re really lightweight, dry quickly and aren’t too short. The Prana Halle Shorts are another great option for longer length women’s shorts.

T-shirts (2)

I usually hike in quick-drying workout t-shirts and I brought 2 to Nepal. You could also bring a couple button up trekking shirts. I did bring a tank top to Nepal but mostly wore it as a layer under a long-sleeved shirt since tank tops are a bit too revealing in Nepali culture.

I recommend: Any old quick dry workout t-shirt will do. You can pick them up for cheap at big box stores or mall stores.

Long sleeved shirt (1)

A long sleeved shirt is a good layer for sun protection or for a bit more warmth on cold mornings. Ones with buttons or a zip neck are great so that you have venting options.

I recommend: Look for a long sleeved zip-neck or button up with UPF sun protection. I actually like to wear long sleeved zip-neck base layer tops like the MEC T1 Long Sleeved Zip T.

Trekkers viewing the sunrise at Annapurna Base Camp. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Bundled up in puffy jackets and warm hats while waiting for sunrise at Annapurna Base Camp.

Fleece Jacket or Light Weight Puffy Jacket

At high elevations or on cold mornings you will need a warm layer to hike in. Pack a fleece jacket or a lightweight puffy jacket that you can layer on over a t-shirt and under your rain jacket.

I recommend: I love my down MEC Spicy Hoodie. It’s super lightweight and compressible. My husband loves his Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket. For a synthetic puffy it’s really light and warm. It comes in a women’s version too. Buy: REI | Patagonia.

Warm Puffy Jacket (Optional)

If you get cold easily, or if you’re trekking in the colder months you’ll want a big warm, puffy jacket to wear at night in the teahouses or when taking breaks. This jacket should be extra warm, much warmer than the lighter weight puffy you pack. Pick a jacket that is compressible so it won’t take up too much room in your pack. If you’re hiring a trekking guide, they may have big puffy jackets available for rent.

I recommend: I didn’t pack a huge puffy jacket for Annapurna Base Camp since I didn’t trek during cold weather. Ask your trekking agency about renting a jacket or buy one in Kathmandu.

Rain jacket

You definitely should pack a rain jacket for the Annapurna Base Camp trek, even if you don’t visit in the monsoon season. It can rain or snow at anytime in the mountains, and even if it doesn’t a rain jacket is great for blocking the wind. Bring a waterproof breathable rain jacket designed for hiking – preferably one with pit zips for venting.

I recommend: We really love our 3 layer Gore Tex MEC Synergy Jackets. If you want something lighter and more compact, the Outdoor Research Helium II is a great option. Buy: Outdoor Research | REI.

Rain Pants

Pack a pair of waterproof breathable rain pants that you can easily layer over top of your hiking pants.  I like ones with side zippers for venting that are easy to put on and take off without removing your shoes.

I recommend: I have the MEC Hydrofoil Rain Pants. They have full length side zips so they aren’t as light as the popular Outdoor Research Helium Pants. Buy: Outdoor Research | REI.

Long Underwear

It gets cold up high in the mountains, especially at night so make sure you pack some warm long underwear, also known as a base layer. You can wear them as pyjamas at night or as a warm layer under your trekking clothes during the day. Choose mid-weight long underwear made of polyester or merino wool and be sure to pack both long underwear bottoms and a long sleeved top.

I recommend: I sleep cold so I wear a MEC T3 base layer top with a hood and matching bottoms. My husband likes Patagonia’s Capilene Midweight long underwear. Buy: REI | Patagonia.

Sports bras (2)

Bring two sports bras so you can wear one and air out the other. You don’t need a ton of support for trekking, so try to choose a bra without a lot of fabric layers that will take a long time to dry.

I recommend: I really like the Knixwear bras for trekking since they are super lightweight, don’t absorb too much moisture and are seamless so they don’t chafe. They offer enough support for my larger chest when I adjust the straps to cross back.

Underwear (3 or 4 pairs)

I like to bring two kinds of underwear on long trips: two or three pairs of quick drying synthetic underwear for trekking and one pair of comfortable cotton underwear for wearing at night. Seamless underwear will be way more comfortable for hiking in, since they prevent chafing. Many of the guys I hike with swear by boxer brief with a built in pouch to prevent their package from rubbing the inner thighs.

I recommend: I wear Patagonia’s Active underwear because they’re seamless and don’t chafe when I’m sweaty. Buy: REI | Patagonia. The guys I hike with can’t stop talking about how much they love Saxx boxer briefs. Buy: REI | Amazon.

Warm Hat

Americans call it a beanie. Canadians call it a toque. No matter what you call it, don’t forget to pack a warm hat on your Annapurna Base Camp trek. Bring one that covers your ears.

I recommend: Buy a hand knitted hat in Nepal. You’ll be supporting the locals and get a great souvenir.

A trekker on the Annapurna Base Camp trek in the monsoon season. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Trekking in the mist.

Sun Hat and Sunglasses

The sun can be harsh at high elevations, especially above the tree line so you may want to bring a wide brimmed hat or baseball cap and a pair of sunglasses to give you a bit of protection.

I recommend: I like to wear polarized sunglasses as they cut let you see colours that are truer to reality than what you get with regular sunglasses. I like Sunskis since they have fun frame options and they aren’t too expensive for polarized glasses. 

Gloves

Simple fleece or wool gloves will be enough to keep your hands warm at high elevations or on cold mornings. But if you are trekking in the winter or feel the cold easily, insulated ski gloves are a better bet.

I recommend: I like wind resistant gloves since they’re a bit warmer when wet.

Neck Gaiter or Buff (Optional)

When I was trekking my guide Chandra swore that you stayed warmer if you kept your ears covered and he often used a buff as a headband to warm his ears. You can also wear a buff around your neck or even as a hat.

I recommend: I bring a merino wool buff on all my hikes and was happy I packed it for Annapurna Base Camp. 

A trekker relaxes in the hot spring at Jhinu Danda on the Annapurna Base Camp trek. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Relaxing in the hot spring at Jhinu Danda.

Bathing Suit (Optional)

There are lots of route options for reaching Annapurna Base Camp, but many of them include a visit to Jhinu Danda hot springs. Women should pack a bathing suit for the springs but men can just wear their trekking shorts (or bring board shorts instead of trekking shorts). Women should pack a bathing suit that’s a bit more modest (a one piece or tankini without a plunging neckline) so you don’t offend the locals.

Casual clothing for wearing at the Teahouses (Optional)

When you’re relaxing at the teahouse each evening you might not feel like wearing your sweaty trekking clothes. Consider packing a lightweight change of clothes to wear at the tea house. (Or just do what I did and wear your long johns as pants).

READ NEXT: 6 Reasons You Should Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal

Footwear to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Hiking Boots

The Annapurna Base Camp trek is mostly on well trodden paths and stone stairs so you don’t need heavy duty mountaineering boots. Regular hiking boots are fine. If you prefer the ankle support of higher cut boots, bring them as they will be handy for all the descending you’ll do on the trip back down. I wore mid-cut boots and was quite comfortable in them. The most important thing is to bring boots that you’ve already worn already and that are comfortable. You really want to take care of your feet.

I recommend: For mid-cut boots I love my Salmon X Ultra Mid GTX Boots. (I wore them in Nepal). Buy: REI | Backcountry.com | Amazon. When I want full ankle support, I wear my Scarpa Kailash boots. Buy: Backcountry.com |
Amazon.

Sandals

Pack a lightweight pair of slip on sandals, Crocs or flip flops for wearing in the shower and to visit the toilet in the middle of the night. You’ll want a break from your boots each day so they are also great to wear inside the teahouses.

Socks (2 or 3 pairs)

Keeping your feet happy on a trek is super important. Pack 2 or 3 pairs of wool and synthetic blend socks that fit well. I also prefer to wear liner socks since they can help reduce the rubbing that can cause blisters. Try your socks and boots at home before your trek to make sure they don’t cause any problems.

I recommend: I’m a recent convert to wearing Darn Tough socks. They’re comfortable and seem to last forever. I wear the Light Hiker Micro Crew. Buy: REI |Darn Tough Socks.

Trekkers pack their bags outside the teahouse at Annapurna Base Camp. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Packing up for another day on the trail at Annapurna Base Camp.

Sleeping Gear to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Sleeping Bag and Compression Sack (Optional)

You don’t need to pack a sleeping bag on the Annapurna Base Camp trek, but you may want to bring one anyway. All of the teahouses provide thick synthetic comforters (which they call blankets), but they can run out in high season. The teahouses aren’t heated so even if you do get there early enough to get a blanket, you might still be cold. Pack a lightweight and compressible sleeping bag rated at least 0C/32F but preferably more like -10C/14F. Choose one with a hood for extra warmth. Make sure you pack your sleeping bag inside a compression sack so it takes up less space in your pack. If you are using a guide, the trekking company may have sleeping bags available to rent.

Sleeping Bag Liner and Pillowcase (Optional)

I didn’t pack a sleeping bag liner on my trek, and it’s the number one thing I wish I had brought. The tea house beds come with a foam mattress, fitted sheet, a pillow, a pillowcase and a thick blanket, but they’re aren’t washed very often and sometimes didn’t smell that clean. If you bring your own sleeping bag liner and pillowcase you won’t have to put your skin into direct contact with the teahouse linens.

I recommend: I’ll definitely be picking up a lightweight sleeping bag liner before my next trek.

Ear Plugs

The teahouses have VERY thin walls. If you’re a light sleeper, ear plugs are a must. You never know when you’ll be put in a room next to an epically loud snorer.

I recommend: Bring a few pairs of cheap foam earplugs. You’re bound to lose some so it’s good to have extras. I like the contoured ones since I find they fit in my ears better.

Two trekkers pose on the trail on the way down from Annapurna Base Camp. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Wearing long sleeves, hats and sunglasses to protect against the harsh high altitude sun.

Toiletries and First Aid to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Soap, Shampoo and Conditioner

All of the teahouses have showers so you will want to bring travel sized bottles of soap, shampoo and conditioner so you can wash up. Cold showers are always available and are usually free. Hot showers are often available for a price.

Travel Towel

The teahouses don’t supply towels so you’ll need to pack your own. Choose a quick-drying super absorbent microfibre towel.

I recommend: I have the PackTowl Personal Towel in both face cloth and body towel sizes.

Toothpaste and Toothbrush

There’s usually a communal sink outside the toilet where you can brush your teeth. But remember to use your own filtered or treated water.

Deodorant and Wet Wipes

You’ll be spending up to 10 days on the trail getting sweaty every day. Bring a small travel sized deodorant and some wet wipes for having a quick sponge bath on days you don’t shower.

Sunscreen, Lip Balm and Moisturizer

The harsh sun at high elevations can give you a sunburn in just a few minutes. (I forgot to put sunscreen on the backs of my hands and ended up with a wicked sunburn after only 45 minutes of exposure.) Pack sunscreen and SPF lip balm to protect yourself. The cold air and wind can also dry out your skin so you might also want to pack a small bottle of moisturizer.

I recommend: I like Neutrogena sport sunscreen since it is oil free. I use Blistex lip balms. They have an SPF rating of 15 (so you have to reapply often) but they don’t feel too waxy like some others I’ve tried.

Hair Brush and Hair Ties

If you’ve got long hair, you know why you need these.

Contact Solution and Spare Lenses

If you wear contacts, be sure to pack contact solution and extra lens. On cold nights, sleep with your contact case inside your sleeping bag to keep them from freezing.

Tampons or Pads

If you menstruate, pack some tampons or pads just in case. They aren’t available for sale anywhere along the trek (as one blogger unfortunately found out!)

Toilet Paper and Hand Sanitizer

There will be no toilet paper along the route since Nepalis don’t use it: They use their left hand and some water.You’ll need to pack some inside a Ziploc bag to keep it dry. You can buy toilet paper at teahouses and shops along the trek, or stock up ahead of time in Pokhara. Sometimes the communal wash sinks come with soap, but they often don’t so it’s a good idea to pack a small bottle of hand sanitizer to clean your hands after you use the toilet and before you eat.

First Aid Kit

You should pack a small first aid kit. Make sure it includes bandages, gauze, medical tape and a compression bandage for strains or sprains.  You’ll also want to have lots of foot care supplies such as Moleskin or Second Skin for blisters. It’s also a good idea to pack some nail clippers. Your first aid kit should also contain stuff to help repair your gear in case you have any problems. We packed a small multi-tool and some duct tape.

I recommend: I like the Adventure Medical Ultralight first aid kits since they come in a water resistant pouch. I always add more stuff to them, like more blister care and bandaids.

A multi-tool with a knife, pliers and scissors is always handy. I like the Leatherman Wave.

Medication

Don’t forget to pack any prescription medication. Medication of any kind is not generally available on the trek and may be hard to find in Pokhara. Make sure you pack a good supply of anti-inflammatory painkillers like Advil. Getting sick on the trail is surprisingly common so pack cough and cold medication just in case. If you end up with an upset stomach on the trail (like I did), you’ll be happy to have anti-nausea meds like Gravol and anti-diarrhea pills like Immodium.

Visit a travel clinic before you leave home and talk to your doctor about whether you want to get a prescription for Diamox to help with altitude sickness symptoms. (Annapurna Base Camp isn’t that high compared to many other treks in Nepal, but it’s still at 4100m, MUCH higher than you are used to.) A travel clinic can also write you a prescription for antibiotics to help with traveller’s diarrhea. I was really glad to have those pills on my trek!

Trekking through the jungle at lower elevations on the Annapurna Base Camp trek. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Trekking through the jungle at lower elevations.

READ NEXT: 8 Things I Wish I Knew Before Going Trekking in Nepal

Electronics to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Mobile Phone and Charger

Most of us take our phones everywhere and Annapurna Base Camp is no exception. Most of the teahouses have wifi if you want to stay connected.

Nepali SIM Card (Optional)

There is excellent phone reception on almost the whole trek. If you trek during high season you may want to get a Nepali SIM card so you can call ahead to guest houses each day and reserve a bed.

Camera, Memory Cards and Charger or Batteries

The Himalayas are spectacular and you’ll want to make sure you have a good way to take photos. Many mobile phones take great photos, but you may want to bring a stand alone camera or even a GoPro.

I recommend: I brought my Sony A6000. It’s a mirrorless which is more compact than a full DSLR but still produces high quality images. I find it easy to use, plus it’s not that expensive. 

Headlamp and Extra Batteries

Electricity is unreliable in Nepal, especially in the mountains. There’s often no lights at night so you’ll want to bring a headlamp to navigate around the teahouse in the dark.

I recommend: I use a Petzl Actik. It’s super bright and easy to use. Plus the batteries last a long time on low power. Buy: REI | Backcountry.com.

Power Bank

Sometimes you will get electrical outlets in your room, but more often there will be communal outlets in the teahouse dining room, and often you’ll have to pay to use them. If you have a few different devices to charge, it can be easier to bring a power bank so you can charge that in the dining room, then use the power bank to charge your other devices later.

I recommend: Bring a power bank that has enough storage to charge your devices at least once, but isn’t too big and heavy. The size you choose will depend on how many devices you bring, but at least 5,000mAh capacity or larger is probably a good idea. 

Plug Adapter

The plugs in Nepal may not work with your plugs from home so it’s a good idea to pack an adapter. Nepal primarily uses Type C plugs (Euro plugs) but you may also find Type D and Type M.

I recommend: I have the inexpensive Cactus Creek plug adapter kit. There’s lots of other cheap yet functional adapter kits out there as well.  Buy: REI.

Trekking through the Gurung village of Chomrong on the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Using trekking poles to help with the descent on the longest stone staircase on the whole trek in Chomrong.

Food and Water to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Water Treatment

Drinking untreated water in Nepal is a sure-fire way to get sick. But it’s important to stay hydrated at high elevations to prevent altitude sickness. (It’s no joke! Read more about how to adjust to high altitudes.) You can buy treated water at a few designated safe drinking water stations. You can also pay a small fee for hot boiled water from teahouses (although there’s no guarantee that it has actually been at a rolling boil for long enough to kill bacteria and parasites – it might just be hot). Lots of people use one of these two methods on the trail and don’t get sick.

I have a sensitive stomach and really wanted to make sure I didn’t get sick so I brought a Steripen which uses UV rays to treat the water. You could also bring a water filter, water treatment drops or tablets. Bringing your own method of water treatment or filtration gives you more flexibility so don’t have to wait until you get to a teahouse to fill up your water.

I recommend: We packed the Steripen Classic on our Annapurna Base Camp Trek. It was quick and easy to use for our group of 4. 

Water Bottles

Bring a couple of reusable water bottles or a hydration reservoir to avoid buying bottled water and contributing to the garbage problem that plagues Nepal. Choose ones with a wide opening so they are easier to fill and sanitize.

I recommend: For trekking in Nepal I brought classic 1L Nalgene bottles. The wide openings are easy to fill and they are fine to use with boiling water. Plus you can get them in tons of fun colours.

Drinks

Tea, Coke and beer are readily available at all teahouses (although the latter two can get quite expensive). But if you like to hike with electrolyte replenishment drinks or you like coffee in the morning, you’ll have to bring your own as they aren’t available on the trek.

I recommend: We brought a few tubes of Nuun electrolyte tablets from home. The tablets are easy to pack and way less messy than powders. I’m a coffee drinker at home, but in Nepal I just ordered a pot of Nepali chai tea every morning. It had plenty of caffeine to replace my coffee.

Food

You will be eating three hot meals a day at teahouses, so I found that I didn’t want as many snacks as usual while on the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. But you can buy plenty of junk food from the tea houses including chocolate bars and cookies. If you prefer more traditional hiking snacks like energy bars or trail mix, you’ll need to buy them outside Nepal.

I recommend: I brought a few of my favourite energy bars which were helpful for fighting off attacks of the hangries on the longer days. I like the Luna Bar S’mores Bar and the Pro Bar Chocolate Coconut Bar.

Optional Extra Gear to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

A camera on a tripod at Annapurna Base Camp. What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Using my gorillapod tripod to balance my camera on a rock at Annapurna Base Camp.

Trekking Poles

The Annapurna Base Camp Trek has a lot of steep ascents and descents. Trekking poles can be really helpful for saving your joints on the downhills. (Is hiking with poles really easier? My friend Becky says yes and I have to agree!)

I recommend: I brought my Black Diamond Trail trekking poles to Nepal and was really happy to have them. 

Umbrella

If you expect rain on your trek, an umbrella can be really helpful. At lower elevations it’s too hot to wear full on rain wear so the umbrella keeps your head and shoulders dry so you don’t have to wear a rain jacket. We trekked in early September at the end of the monsoon season and were happy to have umbrellas.

I recommend: Buy a cheap umbrella in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

Tripod or Selfie Stick

I brought a mini tripod for my camera and maybe people bring selfie sticks or GoPro extension poles. They’re helpful for getting group shots or providing a different perspective.

I recommend: I brought the Joby Gorillapod mini tripod. It’s lightweight and compact, plus its easy to attach to just about anything. You can also get an adapter that lets you use it with your phone. Buy: REI | Amazon.

Paracord

A short length of paracord can come in handy. You can use it to create a clothesline to dry out sweaty gear or a wet towel in your room. Or you can use it to hang damp socks off the back of your pack during the day to dry them in the sun.

I recommend: You don’t need much: 3 or 4 meters of cord should be enough.

Entertainment for the Teahouses

You’ll have a few hours each night in the teahouses when you’ll need to entertain yourself. Consider bringing a book, some headphones to listen to music or podcasts and a deck of cards.

I recommend: I always travel with my Amazon Kindle eReader so I have hundreds of books to choose from.

Stuff You Don’t Need to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Here’s my list of stuff you don’t need and shouldn’t pack for your Annapurna Base Camp Trek

  • Tent (stay in the teahouses – it’s almost the same price as camping)
  • Sleeping pad (the teahouse bunks come with foam mattresses)
  • Stove, cooking gear and food (buy your meals at the teahouses)
  • Climbing gear (This is a non-technical trek and you won’t need harnesses, ropes, crampons, etc.)
  • Extra clothing and gear you won’t need on your trek (Leave them in a duffle bag or suitcase with your hotel in Pokhara.)
  • A laptop (There’s wifi in the teahouses but it’s slow and the electricity is spotty so it will be hard to keep it charged.)
  • Revealing clothing including short shorts, skimpy tank tops, etc. (Nepalis are modestly dressed people and will appreciate it if you do the same).
  • Tons of outfit changes. (You can do laundry in the sink or just air out your clothes and wear them again. Everyone else will be doing the same thing. And if you pack too much, you pack will be too heavy to comfortably carry.)

A Note on Buying Gear in Nepal

If you need to, you can buy everything you need in Nepal at trekkers shops in Kathmandu and Pokhara. However, lots of the gear for sale is counterfeit knock-offs. Some of the knock-offs work fine, but others will fall apart pretty quickly. Unfortunately, to the untrained eye it can be hard to tell the difference and you don’t want to end up 6 days walk from a road with broken gear. As well, some pieces of gear are so key that you want to make sure you have quality gear that works for you. Below I’ve listed some gear that you can probably buy in Nepal without a problem, as well as some you really want to make sure you bring from home (and test out first).

Gear You Can Buy in Nepal

  • Maps
  • Duffle bags
  • Fleece jackets
  • Puffy jackets (although beware that they may not be as warm as advertised)
  • Warm hats and gloves (you can also buy handed knitted ones on the trek – they make great souviners)
  • Shower sandals
  • Toilet paper
  • Trekking poles
  • Umbrella

Gear You Definitely Want to Bring from Home

  • Backpack that fits you well
  • Rain jacket and pants (knock-off ones for sale in Nepal might not be very waterproof)
  • Hiking boots that fit you well

Have you been trekking in Nepal? Is there anything you’d add or remove from this list? Let me know in the comments.

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What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal. Find out what you need to bring and what you can leave at home. Includes a free printable packing check list.
What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal. Find out what you need to bring and what you can leave at home. Includes a free printable packing check list.
What to pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal. Find out exactly what to pack and what you don't need. Includes a free printable packing checklist.

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30 Photos of Stockholm That Will Inspire You to Visit https://dawnoutdoors.com/30-photos-of-stockholm/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/30-photos-of-stockholm/#comments Tue, 05 Dec 2017 04:06:23 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=2868 Recently I spent 10 days in Stockholm. My husband was there for work, so I tagged along. While he was in an office sitting in front of a computer screen, I went sight-seeing on my own. And oh man… did I sight-see hard. I wandered the narrow streets of the old town almost every day. …

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Recently I spent 10 days in Stockholm. My husband was there for work, so I tagged along. While he was in an office sitting in front of a computer screen, I went sight-seeing on my own. And oh man… did I sight-see hard. I wandered the narrow streets of the old town almost every day. I visited medieval churches. I took 3 separate boat trips. I visited hundreds of museums (okay I think it was only about 6). I had fika (Swedish for coffee break) in the cutest cafes. I walked over 10km each day, exploring different neighbourhoods. I fell in love with exploring Stockholm.  And I took 1 million (rough estimate!) photos of everything. But rather than subjecting you to an OMG-will-it-ever-end ridiculously long slideshow, I’ve distilled my trip down to just 30 photos of Stockholm. I hope these pics will give you an idea of what it is like to visit. (And maybe even inspire you to book your own trip?)

Historic Cathedrals and Churches

Like most European capitals, Stockholm has amazing and beautiful historic churches. In some cities you can get a bit of cathedral overdose because the architecture is all from a similar time period. But in Stockholm, each of the churches is different enough to keep it interesting. A few of the churches charge a small entry fee, but most are free.

Riddarholmskyrkan church in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Riddarholmskyrkan in Stockholm’s old town dates back to the 13th century.
The interior of Riddarholmskyrkan church in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Ornate interior of Riddarholmskyrkan.
St. Jacob's Kyrka in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
St Jacob’s Kyrka in Stockholm’s Norrmalm neighbourhood. Parts of it date back to the 1500s.
The interior of Tyska Kyrkan (German Church) in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
The beautiful Baroque stained glass windows inside Tyska Kyrkan (German Church) in the old town
Sofia Kyrkan church in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Sofia Kyrka in the Sodermalm neighbourhood

Opulent Palaces and Castles

Sweden has had a royal family since their independence from Denmark in 1523. These days they are a parliamentary democracy, and the royal family doesn’t have any real power. The Swedes love their royal family, probably because they seem to be (ahem) modernizing the monarchy. (The younger generation married commoners without much fuss: The oldest daughter married her personal trainer, the son married a former glamour model and the younger daughter married a Brit.) But they remain traditionally royal in one aspect: they still have bucketloads of palaces. Their main residence is Drottingholm Palace just outside Stockholm on Lake Malaren. When they’re in the city, they stay at the Royal Palace in Stockholm’s old town. I actually visited both one right after the other – it was a pretty opulent day!

Drottingholm Palace near Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Drottingholm Palace and it’s Baroque garden
The Royal Palace in Stockholm, Sweden.
The Royal Palace in Stockholm’s old town

In addition to palaces, Stockholm also has castles. (The difference is that a castle is built for military defence, while a palace is just a super duper fancy house where royalty lives. The more you know, right?)

Kastellet Stockholm in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Kastellet Stockholm is an old citadel in Stockholm’s harbour.

When I first saw Stockholm’s City Hall I thought it was a castle (or maybe a palace?) In any case, it’s a pretty grand structure. Each year it hosts the Nobel Prize Gala. You can only visit the interior on a guided tour (and sadly I didn’t have time).

City hall in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
This might look like a castle, but it’s actually Stockholm’s City Hall (Stadshuset).
City hall in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
A closer view of Stockholm’s castle… I mean City Hall.

Way too Many Museums

Stockholm has way too museums for a city it’s size – in a good way! (There are over 30 of them.) The most cost effective way to see them is to buy a Stockholm Pass. I bought a 3 day pass and went to several museums a day. It was educational, inspirational, and exhausting! And of course I didn’t manage to visit them all. Surprisingly, my favourite was the Vasa Museum. It houses a 17th century wooden warship that sat at the bottom of Stockholm harbour for hundreds of years before it was raised and preserved. I didn’t think that learning about what is essentially just an old boat would captivate me, but it really did!

The Vasa Museum in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
The amazingly preserved 17th century warship inside the Vasa Museum.
The Nordic Museum in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
The castle theme continues with the museums: the Nordic Museum has a particularly spectacular exterior. But it’s only about 100 years old… it was designed to mimic Danish Renaissance architecture so it just looks super old.
18th century farm buildings at the Skansen outdoor museum in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
An 18th century farm at the Skansen outdoor museum. Like all of the buildings, these ones were dismantled in their original locations across Sweden, then reassembled at the museum.
Reindeer at the Skansen museum in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Reindeer are just some of the nordic animals in Skansen’s zoo.

Their Subway Stations are Art Galleries

With all of its museums, it wasn’t a surprise to learn that Stockholm is an arts-focused city. However, I was surprised that even their public transportation is artsy: their Tunnelbana metro system has been referred to as the world’s longest art gallery. Most of the stations feature original art. I spent a morning riding the subway to see some of them. My favourites were the stations which featured exposed bedrock that had been painted.

READ NEXT: The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Stockholm Subway Art

Radhuset Station in Stockholm's Tunnelbana subway system. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Radhuset Station
Tekniska Hogskolan station in Stockholm's Tunnelbana subway system. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Tekniska Hogskolan station
Stadion station in Stockholm's Tunnelbana subway system. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Stadion station

Diverse Neighbourhoods

Stockholm has lots of interesting neighbourhoods to explore. I enjoyed walking around the ritzy Ostermalm neighbourhood. There’s a gorgeous waterfront walkway along Strandvagen Street.

The Diplomat hotel in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
The picturesque red awning of the Diplomat hotel in the Ostermalm neighbourhood.
Strandvagen in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Strandvagen in Ostermalm is one of Stockholm’s most prestigious addresses. It’s a great place to stroll along the water.

I made a special trip north of downtown to the Vasastan neighbourhood to go to the library. But this isn’t just any library: Stockholm’s Public Library has a 3 story circular reading room. I’d love to be wealthy enough to have something like this in my house!

Stockholm Public Library. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
The spectacular 3 storey circular reading room in Stockholm’s Public Library.

South of the city center is Sodermalm, an up and coming neighbourhood that is a hipster hangout. There are lots of cute boutiques and coffee shops lining the streets. The bluffs of Sodermalm are also one of the best places to get a great view Stockholm.

The view of Stockholm's old town from the bluffs in Sodermalm. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
A view of the Lake Malaren side of the old town from the bluffs in Sodermalm.
A boutique bakery in Stockholm's Sodermalm neighbourhood. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Boutique bakery in Stockholm’s hip SoFo neighbourhood in Sodermalm.

I took a boat tour through Lake Malaren and the Baltic Sea (which meet in Stockholm). Along the way we cruised past the southern suburbs where it was interesting to see modern and clean Scandinavian architecture juxtaposed with former industrial sites.

New development in Hammarby, Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
An ultramodern new development at Henrikdals in Hammarby, one of the southern suburbs.
Abandoned industrial building in southern Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Abandoned industrial building in the southern Liljeholmen neighbourhood.

The area around Stockholm is dotted with islands, both in Lake Malaren and in the archipelago in the Baltic Sea. Staying at a summer cottage on an island is a quintessentially Swedish experience – most Swedes have one. After taking a ferry to the island of Vaxholm, I enjoyed a lovely afternoon wandering around its little coves and quiet lanes, I can really appreciate the charm of the summer cottage life.

Vaxholm island, Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
A quiet cove on Vaxholm, one of the many islands in Stockholm’s archipelago.

The Old Town is Enchanting

I’ve saved the best for last: Stockholm’s old town (known as Gamla Stan in Swedish). The old town was by far my favourite part of Stockholm. It has some picturesque public squares and cute cafes. I loved getting lost in the narrow winding streets (although by the end I could navigate them quite well!) If you want to check out the old town for yourself, I put together a self-guided walking tour so you can be sure to see all the main sites, without getting lost. At times it can be a bit overrun with tourists, but if you go early in the morning or after dark, you can have it almost to yourself.

READ NEXT: The Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm

Stor Torget square in Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
The iconic colourful houses in Stor Torget, the main square in the old town.
Cafe in old town Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
One of the many adorable cafes in the winding streets of the old town.
Old town Stockholm, Sweden. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
The Baltic waterfront of the old town.
Prastgatan street in Stockholm's old town. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Narrow Prastgatan, my favourite street in the old town.
Branda Tomten square in Stockholm's old town. 30 photos of Stockholm that will inspire you to visit.
Branda Tomten Square lit up at night.

Whew… that was a lot of photos of Stockholm. Thanks for sticking with me through all 30 of them. Maybe after reading this post you understand why I fell so hard for this city?

Have you ever thought of visiting Stockholm? Do you have questions about it? Ask them in the comments.

Read Next:

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The Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm https://dawnoutdoors.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-stockholm/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-stockholm/#comments Sun, 19 Nov 2017 02:12:13 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=2730 If you’ve been following my blog for awhile you know that I’m pretty much an expert on hiking, the Vancouver area, Iceland and Nepal. So you might be surprised to hear that I’ve put together the ultimate self-guided walking tour of Stockholm. Wait, what? Stockholm? In Sweden? Yup! A few years ago I went on …

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If you’ve been following my blog for awhile you know that I’m pretty much an expert on hiking, the Vancouver area, Iceland and Nepal. So you might be surprised to hear that I’ve put together the ultimate self-guided walking tour of Stockholm. Wait, what? Stockholm? In Sweden? Yup!

A few years ago I went on a last minute trip to Stockholm in November. Yes, you heard that right, I booked last minute tickets to Sweden. Since it’s so far from Vancouver, it’s definitely not somewhere I thought I would visit as a quick, spur-of-the-moment trip. But my husband was heading there on business and it worked out for me to tag along. I honestly had no idea what to expect before I went.

And then I got there and it turns out Stockholm as an incredibly gorgeous old town center full of narrow alleyways, beautiful churches and tons of fun history. I spent an entire work week wandering the old town (known as Gamla Stan in Swedish) while my other half was at the office. (Ok, and also drinking coffee in adorable cafes.)  And by the weekend, I felt like a local. So much like a local that I could navigate the winding streets like a pro and spout out historical facts about every other building.

And now I’m passing that pseudo-local’s knowledge along to you with a totally free Stockholm walking tour.. Read on for instructions for the ultimate self-guided walking tour of Stockholm’s old town. (You don’t have to be visiting Stockholm to enjoy the tour: you can take a virtual tour from the comfort of your home. There’s lots of pretty pictures!) I also made a pretty wicked custom Google Map that you can use to find your way. (I HEART maps, you know!) Psst:

If you’d rather go on a guided tour of Stockholm, this one gets great reviews. And if you’re in Malmo, you should check out these great Malmo walking tours.

Some basics:

On this tour you will walk about 3 kilometres (about 1.9 miles). There are a few stairs and hills, but in general, it’s doable for most people. I recommend allowing about 1.5-2 hours to take the tour. You could do it faster if you walk fast and don’t stop often. However, you may want to take a break part way through for fika (coffee break). I’ve included a few recommendations for places to stop on the tour below.

Stockholm Self-Guided Walking Tour Map

Stockholm walking tour Google Map
Click to open in Google Maps

Step-by-Step Stockholm Self-Guided Walking Tour Directions

START at Gustav Adolfs Torg Square

Gustav Adolfs Torg Square in Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Gustav Adolfs Torg Square with a statue of King Gustav Adolf II (surprise!) and the Opera House behind.

Begin your self-guided walking tour of Stockholm at Gustav Adolfs torg. This square is considered to be the geographic center of Stockholm. It is named for King Gustav Adolf II who founded the Swedish Empire in 1611. Stand facing south and look down the Norrbro bridge. From here you have a great view of the Royal Palace, which you’ll visit towards the end of your tour.

The National Swedish Opera House. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
The National Swedish Opera House

The building on your left is the Kungliga Operan, the National Swedish Opera House. This is the second opera house to stand on this site. The first was built at the request of King Gustav III in 1782. Unfortunately for the King, he was assassinated here in 1792. If you want to see the outfit he was wearing at the time (blood stains and all), visit the Royal Armoury Museum (Livrustkammaren) underneath the Royal Palace.

Arvfurstens Palats. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Arvfurstens Palats

The building on your right is the Arvfurstens Palats. It currently houses the Swedish Ministry of Foreign Affairs, but it was originally built as the private residence of Princess Sophia Albertina, the younger sister of King Gustav III.

Turn RIGHT and walk to the Riksbron Bridge

To begin, turn right and walk next to the water along Stromgatan until you reach the Riksbron pedestrian bridge. The fresh waters of Lake Malaren meet the brackish waters of the Baltic Sea at this bridge. You can often see people fishing on the sea side of the bridge. Yup, the Swedes love fishing so much they do it in downtown Stockholm.

Sagerskahuset, Sweden's White House. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Sagerskahuset, Sweden’s White House (the official residence of the Prime Minister)

Turn around to look back towards Gustav Adolfs torg. The white building is Sagerskahuset, the official residence of the Swedish Prime Minister. So Sweden has a white house too 😉 Conveniently, the Prime Minister’s office is located a couple doors down to the left in the art nouveau style Rosenbad building.

Walk ACROSS the bridge

Riksdagshuset in Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
The Riksbron Bridge and the courtyard of Riksdagshuset

Your self-guided walking tour of Stockholm will now enter the old town proper. Walk across the Riksbron Bridge, under the arch and into the courtyard of Riksdagshuset, the Swedish House of Parliament. This imposing building takes up most of the island of Helgeandsholmen.

READ NEXT: 30 Photos of Stockholm That Will Inspire You to Visit

Walk THROUGH the courtyard and ACROSS the bridge

This short bridge is called Stallbron, which means “stable bridge” in Swedish because historically, the royal stables were located on Helgeandsholmen. Once you cross the bridge you will be on Stadsholmen, the largest of Gamla Stan’s islands. To your left is the Royal Palace. (Don’t worry, we’ll come back here later!)

Turn RIGHT on Myntgatan and go STRAIGHT to the Riddarholm Bridge

From the bridge, turn right on Myntgatan follow it as it turns into Riddarhustorget and then heads towards the Riddarholm Bridge. The two grand buildings you’ll pass on your right are the Bonde Palace and Riddarhuset. The Bonde Palace was originally constructed in the 1600s as a private residence for a member of the Swedish nobility, but today it houses the Swedish Supreme Court. Next to the Bonde Palace is Riaddarhuset, the Swedish House of Nobility which also dates from the 1600s.

CROSS the bridge to Riddarholm Church

Riddarholm Church in Gamla Stan, Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Riddarholm Church

Cross the Riddarholm Bridge and arrive on Riddarholmen, the third of Gamla Stan’s islands. The main attraction here is Riddarholmkyrkan Church one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm. Parts of it date back to the medieval times of the 13th century. Inside you’ll find the tombs of many of the Swedish kings. There is a 60SEK entrance fee (or you can get in with a Stockholm Pass).

Go BACK across the bridge, then turn RIGHT on Storkyrkbrinken

After visiting Riddarholm Church, retrace your steps back across the Riddarholm Bridge and head back down Myntgatan to Storkyrkbrinken. Turn right on Storkyrkbrinken. From here you will be able to see the tower of Storkyrkan Church up the hill.

Turn RIGHT on Prastgatan

Prastgatan in Gamla Stan, Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Prastgatan (Priest Street)

Follow Storkyrkbrinken for a few blocks, then turn right on Prastgatan. Prastgatan means “priest street” in Swedish and historically clergy associated with the nearby Storkyrkan Church lived here. Today it’s a picturesque narrow street lined with old homes. It’s my favourite place to walk in Stockholm’s old town since it isn’t crowded with tourists. Oh, and it’s gorgeous.

STOP at the intersection with Kakbrinken

A runestone in Gamla Stan, Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Can you spot the runestone built into the wall? It’s on the corner behind the bollard.

Follow Prastgatan for four blocks to the intersection with Kakbrinken. Here you will find a runestone built into the wall of a shop. The stone dates from the Iron Age but historians don’t know exactly how old it is or why it is in a wall in Stockholm! Runestones were usually made to memorialize the dead, and this one says (in old Norse) “Torsten and Frögunn had the stone erected after their son”.

CONTINUE on Prastgatan to Tyska Stallplan

Follow Prastgatan for a few more blocks to Tyska Stallplan, which means German Stable Square. This area of Gamla Stan is the old German quarter. So it shouldn’t surprise you to learn that the church you passed along the way is the German Church (Tyska Krykan). And don’t worry, we’ll loop back and visit it later.

Turn RIGHT Into Marten Trotzigs Grand

Marten Trotzigs Grand in the old town of Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Walking through Marten Trotzigs Grand, Stockholm’s narrowest street.

From Tyska Stallplan take a few more steps down Prastgatan, then turn right into Marten Trotzigs Grand. Marten Trotzigs Grand is the narrowest street in Stockholm – it’s so skinny that you might not even notice that it’s there. It’s only 90cm wide at it’s narrowest point and since the buildings on either side are slowly tilting with age, it’s getting incrementally narrower each year. It’s also the only place in Stockholm’s old town where you will see graffiti. Walk down this “street” (which actually includes a set of stairs) until it ends a block later at Vasterlanggatan.

Turn LEFT on Vasterlanggatan

After emerging from tiny Marten Trotzigs Grand, turn left onto Vasterlanggatan. Vasterlanggatan runs the length of Gamla Stan parallel to Prastgatan and is filled with souvenir shops and touristy restaurants. If you need some postcards or fake Viking helmets, this is the place to go.

Turn LEFT Into Jarntorget

Jarntorget in Gamla Stan, Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Sundbergs Konditori in Jarntorget. This bakery-cafe dates back to 1785

From Vasterlanggatan turn left into Jarntorget, which means Iron Square in Swedish. There has been a square on this spot since the 1300s. Historically it was an important trade center, but today it is surrounded by cute little cafes with outdoor seating, including Sundbergs Konditori, the oldest bakery-cafe in Stockholm, which dates back to 1785. Stop in for a fika (coffee break) to sample the pastries.

Turn LEFT onto Osterlanggatan, then go UP the hill

From Jarntorget turn left onto Osterlanggatan, then head left up the hill on Sodra Benickebrinken. There are public toilets located underneath this sloping street if you need a bathroom break. Historically this area used to be home to many taverns.

Turn LEFT on Svartmangatan and to Tyska Kyrkan

The German Church in Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
The exterior of Tyska Kyrkan, the German Church

From the top of the slope on Sodra Benickebrinken, turn left onto Svartmangatan. The literal translation is “black man street”, but the name isn’t as offensive as it sounds: it refers to the Blackfriars monastery that used to located in this area. Continue on Svartmangatan for a few blocks until you reach Tyska Kyrkan (the German Church) on your left. You’ll need to pay 50SEK to go in, but the ornate Baroque interior with stained glass windows is worth it.

The interior of Tyska Kyrkan in Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
The ornate interior of Tyska Kyrkan, the German Church

Turn RIGHT on Kindstugatan to Branda Tomten

Branda Tomten in the old town of Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Branda Tomten (the “burnt lot”)

After you’ve finished admiring the interior of the German Church, turn left out of the churchyard back on to Svartmangatan, then make your first right onto Kindstugatan. Within a block’s walk you’ll arrive at Branda Tomten, which translates to “the burnt lot”. There was a building in the space occupied by this triangular square until 1728, when it burned down. The lot was left vacant afterwards since it provided a convenient place to turn horse-drawn carriages around. Now it houses a beautiful chestnut tree and climbing vines, making it a great spot for photographs.

Turn LEFT onto Sjalgardsgatan, then RIGHT to the Statue of Saint George and the Dragon

Statue of Saint George and the Dragon. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm.
The statue of Saint George and the Dragon

From Branda Tomten, make a left onto Sjalgardsgatan, then immediately turn right onto Kopmangatan. A block later you’ll arrive in Kopmantorget Square, the site of a large bronze statue of Saint George and the Dragon. The statue depicts Saint George slaying a dragon. (Surprise! Ok, not really.) The legend of Saint George dates back to the Crusades. Saint George is said to have saved an entire village in Libya from a dragon… provided they converted to Christianity first, of course. The statue is actually a replica – the original wooden version is inside Storkyrkan Church. You have to pay to get in to the church, but there’s no fee to view this statue 🙂

READ NEXT: The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Stockholm Subway Art

Walk BACK up Kopmangatan to Stortorget

Stortorget Square in old town Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm.
Stortorget, the main square in Stockholm’s old town

From the statue of Saint George, turn around and head back up Kopmangatan. Walk 4 blocks until you reach Stortorget, the main square in Gamla Stan. In fact, the name means “big square” in Swedish. Stortorget is Stockholm’s picture-perfect showpiece and the colourful buildings on the south side of the square have been featured on countless postcards (and Instagram selfies).

However, Stortorget has a not-so-picture-perfect history: it was the scene of the Stockholm Bloodbath that took place over three days in 1520. The King of Denmark invited all the Swedish royalty and nobility to a banquet… and then had them all executed. The only noble to escape the carnage was Gustav Vasa since he was away from Stockholm at the time. He gathered an army outside the capital and eventually defeated the Danish to liberate Sweden. Despite all his friends being killed and having to wage a war, it worked out pretty well for Gustav: He was the last surviving noble, so he got to become the first King of Sweden!

There are also several old and historical buildings around the square. The Swedish Stock Exchange building on the north side of the square dates back to 1776. These days it houses the Nobel Museum. The houses at numbers 3 and 5 date back to 1640s. Today they house a Christian charity for the homeless. The colourful buildings at numbers 14-22 (the postcard ones) are from the 1600 and 1700s. There are cafes on the ground floors of most of them now. Grab a patio seat at Chokladkoppen (in the orange building at number 18), order a hot chocolate and a slice of prinsesstårta cake, and settle in for some people watching.

Go LEFT to Trangsund and Storkyrkan

When you’ve taken enough selfies in front of the picturesque buildings of Stortorget (I won’t judge – I did it too), leave the square on Trangsund, on the left side of the Nobel Museum. Walk a block to reach Storkyrkan, which means “grand church” in Swedish. Dating back to the 13th century, Storkyrkan is the oldest church in Gamla Stan, even older than Riddarholm Church. Since it is right next to the royal palace, it has hosted many royal weddings and coronations.

The interior of Storkyrkan Church in Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm.
The beautiful interior of Storkyrkan

The interior of the church is worth a visit, even though it costs 60 SEK (or use your Stockholm Pass). The ornate royal pews and silver altar are pretty spectacular. Plus you can see the original wooden version of the statue of Saint George and the Dragon – it’s even bigger than the replica.

Turn RIGHT on Storkyrkobrinken, then LEFT to Parade Square

Changing of the Guard in Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm
Changing of the Guard, Stockholm. Photo credit: MRHeinz on Pixabay. Used under Creative Commons CC0.

After visiting Storkyrkan, turn right around the corner of the church on to Storkyrkobrinken, then immediately make a left onto Hogvaktsterrassen to enter the Parade Square of the Royal Palace. This circular plaza marks the tourist entrance to the Royal Apartments, the only area of the Royal Palace that is open to the public. The changing of the guard ceremony also takes place daily in this square. It starts at 12:15 on weekdays and 1:15 on weekends in the summer, and then occurs on a reduced schedule the rest of the year. Get there early if you want a good spot in front to watch as it gets busy.

Turn RIGHT, then go LEFT on Slottsbacken

Sweden's Royal Palace in Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm.
The Royal Palace

Walk through Parade Square, then turn right to exit the square. Turn left on Slottsbacken to walk down the south side of the Royal Palace. The palace was originally built in 1754, although there has been a castle on this spot since the 13th century. The present day palace has over 1400 rooms and is home to the royal family as well as several museums. Remember how I told you at the beginning of the tour that you can check out the bloody clothes King Gustav III was assassinated in?  You’ll find them in the Royal Armoury Museum on the south side of the building.

Turn LEFT onto Skeppsbron

At the bottom of Slottsbacken, turn left on to Skeppsbron to walk along the east side of the palace. There are two waterfall style fountains coming out of the wings of the building with a private terrace garden in between. Opposite the palace there is a great view of the inner harbour of Stockholm and the island of Skeppsholmen, which houses many museums.

Turn LEFT onto Slottskajen and walk UP the ramp

Old town Stockholm. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm.
The view from the Royal Palace

At the end of the east wall of the Royal Palace, turn left to the north side of the palace on Slottskajen and walk up the ramp. From up here you get a great view of the gardens in front of Riksdaghuset and across to Gustav Adolfs Torg Square. Underneath the ramp you will find the entrance to the Tre Kronor Museum that explores the history of the medieval castle that once stood on this spot.

Walk back DOWN the ramp and ACROSS the bridge

Riksdagshuset. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm.
The baroque facade of the Riksdaghuset

Once you cross the stone Norrbro bridge, you will be back on Helgeandsholmen island. On your left is the Riksdaghuset, the Swedish House of Parliament. You can see that the Baroque facade on this side is done in a much different style than the Neoclassical side you walked through at the beginning of the tour. If you head down the stairs to the park on your right, you will find the semi-hidden entrance to the Medieval Museum. In the 1970s workers were excavating this area to build a car park… when they discovered parts of a medieval city wall. So instead of building a car park, they built a museum. Inside this museum, you can visit the old city wall as well as several interactive exhibits about life in medieval Stockholm. Oh also, it’s FREE to visit!

CROSS the bridge back to Gustav Adolfs Torg Square

The Royal Palace. Visit it on the Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Stockholm.
The view of the Royal Palace from Gustav Adolfs Torg Square

Once you cross the bridge you’ll be back in Gustav Adolf’s Torg Square, where the tour started. Turn around and take one last look at the Royal Palace. You have visited three islands, seen three churches and walked about 3 kilometers (2 miles). Thanks for sticking with me through this self-guided walking tour of Stockholm! Let me know how you liked it in the comments.

Read Next:

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8 Things I Wish I Knew Before Going Trekking in Nepal https://dawnoutdoors.com/8-things-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-trekking-in-nepal/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/8-things-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-trekking-in-nepal/#comments Sun, 22 Oct 2017 23:29:22 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=2649 Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal was one of the highlights of my life. It was an amazing adventure filled with beautiful views, waterfalls, picturesque villages, incredibly tall mountains… And surprises like the gorgeous jungle and delicious momo dumplings. There were also some misadventures like getting heat stroke AND then food poisoning the next day. …

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Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal was one of the highlights of my life. It was an amazing adventure filled with beautiful views, waterfalls, picturesque villages, incredibly tall mountains… And surprises like the gorgeous jungle and delicious momo dumplings. There were also some misadventures like getting heat stroke AND then food poisoning the next day. FML! Also leeches. So. Many. Leeches. Some of my misadventures and surprises could have been prevented with a bit of research and pre-planning, but others were basically inevitable. (You can’t escape leeches in monsoon season. Blerg.) So don’t make the same mistakes I did. I’ve put together a list of things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal, and some fellow travel bloggers have joined me to add their own misadventures and surprises to the mix. Enjoy!

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thanks for your support. -Taryn

More Nepal Posts:

Make a Plan for Clean Drinking Water

Nuraini from the blog Teja on the Horizon wishes she knew more about getting clean drinking water before going trekking in Nepal. She says:

The trekking company I was going with sent me some preparation notes to assist my packing, and cautioned me against drinking the water in the mountains. So, since I also wanted to avoid consuming throwaway plastic water bottles, I armed myself with a portable water filter.

However, I learned that while indeed it is not advisable to drink the water along the mountain trails, there is a safe drinking water initiative in the Annapurnas. Stations supplying this treated water are signed along the way, for instance within restaurants. My guide also told me that locals drink directly from the communal water taps you find in every village. She said these are piped from a source at the top of the mountain, which should be a safe source. However she said sometimes foreigners have issues with this water. I did meet a trekker or two though, who just filled their bottles from this source.

That said, it is still good to have a plan B, especially beyond Dovan. I can testify that the portable filter is very convenient – faster than using chlorine tablets.

You can keep up with Nuraini’s travels on her Facebook and Pinterest pages.

I recommend: When I trekked the to Annapurna Base Camp I brought a Steripen Classic water purifier. It uses UV light to purify water and takes about 60 seconds to work: way faster than waiting 30 minutes for tablets to work or spending 5 minutes using a pump. Buy: MEC | REI.

A communal water tap on the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek. 8 things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal.
A communal water tap on the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek. Locals drink from these without treating the water, but most trekkers will want to treat or filter the water to avoid getting sick. Photo credit: Nuraini of Teja on the Horizon.

Be Prepared for Leeches in Monsoon Season

My Annapurna Sanctuary Trek was at the beginning of September. Before we left I knew that we would be trekking at the tail end of monsoon season and that encountering leeches was possible. But knowing there would be leeches and being mentally prepared for encountering them are two VERY different things. We had a few leech-free and leech-light days on our trek, but the extra-leechy days really stick out in my mind.

In monsoon season the leeches are out in full force on rainy days, especially in places where the vegetation is thick. They range from a few millimeters in size to a few centimeters long and have incredible ninja attack powers. They can crawl up your boot and inside your sock without you ever feeling them. On the extra-leechy days we stopped every few minutes for a leech check so we could flick them off of our boots before they could bite us.  Our guide, Chandra was an expert leech-flicker and it was worth hiring a guide for the leech flicking alone. (Want more reasons why you should hire a guide in Nepal? I’ve got 6 more!)

Want some tips for dealing with leeches? Firstly, avoid trekking in monsoon season, which runs from June to September. If you avoid the monsoon season, apparently you won’t see a single leech (lucky you!).

If you do go during leech season like I did, bring some salt. Sprinkling salt on your socks will deter the leeches. The only problem is that the leeches are out when it’s raining and the rain washes away the salt. Doh. Frequent leech checks to pick them off the outsides of your boots work well, but don’t forget to also check inside the tops of your boots a couple times an hour as some will sneak in. I made the mistake of wearing gaiters thinking that would keep them out. It didn’t. Instead they just crawled inside where they were even more hidden. Disgusting. If you do get bitten, just pull them off. It’s bloody but it doesn’t hurt. Bring some afterbite or Benedryl if you react to bug bites since the leech bites itch the same way.

PS: The Nepali word for leech is “juka”. If you learn this word you can laugh and commiserate with the the porters and locals on the trail about the sneaky, horrible, no-good juka. Laughing with the locals about the juka made it a little more manageable for me. After all, they live with juka for 3 months a year for their whole life. I was just visiting for 10 days!

READ NEXT: Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp

Trekking in the jungle on the way to Annapurna Base Camp. 8 things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal
Trekking through prime leech territory in the jungle on the way to Annapurna Base Camp.

Pack Some Just-in-Case Menstrual Supplies

Unfortunately Tasha of Backpackers Wanderlust learned that lesson in the worst way. Plus another lesson about testing your water treatment method beforehand. Poor Tasha! It’s a crazy story. Read on to hear her tell it in her own words. She writes:

Before setting off on the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal I sat down packing my bags and ticking off everything on my list. On the circuit the water is not safe to drink and bottled water can get expensive. As a solution I had purchased water purifying tablets which should have been a great alternative. Problem was though, they were not the perfect alternative, and I wouldn’t find this out until well into the journey.

It was day five on the trail and was reported to be one of the most scenic days on the journey with Gateway to Heaven. Suddenly I felt a pain in my lower stomach: my period. I didn’t understand how this had happened: it was not the time of the month yet. I was stuck hiking hours each day with no tampons or pads, stomach cramps and feeling extremely nauseous.

Over the following days I tried a process of elimination. I changed my diet and stopped taking Diamox, but nothing changed. That’s when I thought of the water purification tablets. I mean, if it can get rid of bacteria and viruses out of water it has to have some pretty strong chemicals in it. By this stage I was willing to try anything.

I stopped using the water purification tablets and later that day it eventually stops. By the grace of god, I had finally figured out what had been causing my period for the past 48 hours. I was so happy I didn’t care that the rest of the journey I would have to be spending an extra $10 a day just on water. Though, my budget was not too happy about that.

Just FYI: This isn’t medical advice. I highly recommend speaking to your doctor about it or testing the water purification pills beforehand.

Check out Tasha’s Instagram and Facebook for more travel stories and inspiration.

Trekking on the Annapurna Circuit. 8 things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal
Trekking on the Annapurna Circuit. Photo by Tasha of Backpackers Wanderlust.

Eat the Local Food (It’s Cheaper and Delicious)

One of the things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal was that it’s always a good idea to order the local food. Most tea houses have an extensive menu that includes Western-style food like pizza, spaghetti, potatoes, macaroni, and fried rice.  You might be tempted to order familiar meals on your trek, but you will often be disappointed.

The tea house cooks are local Nepalis who have often never travelled outside their region. They have never eaten Western food cooked by a Westerner. So tea house meals are basically made by people who have heard of Western food but don’t know what it is supposed to taste like. Sometimes they nail it (like the awesome mushroom pizza I had in Gorepani). But most of the time…well, they don’t. They really don’t. (Ketchup is a staple ingredient in many dishes… and it usually doesn’t belong there. Somehow, I kept ordering Western-style meals and being surprised when they contained ketchup. Apparently I’m not that bright sometimes.)

I recommend you eat the local food on your trek instead. It’s reliably tasty and it’s usually a lot cheaper too. The two main local dishes are dal bhat and momos.

Dal bhat is the national dish of Nepal. It’s white rice, watery lentil curry and a side of some kind of local vegetables. Usually the whole dish is vegetarian but sometimes you can get a side of meat. Each chef makes it a little differently so sometimes it’s spicier than others, but it’s always cheap. Plus it comes with free refills. Most Nepalis eat this meal two or three times a day. Our guide Chandra ate dal bhat 3 times a day for all 10 days of our trek. By choice. Seriously, Nepalis love it!

Momos are little meat and veggie filled dumplings kind of like Japanese gyoza or Chinese baozi. They can be steamed or fried and they come with a dipping sauce. They are straight up delicious!

Oh also FYI: if you see “buff” on the menu, that’s not a typo. That means buffalo. Nepal is a predominantly Hindu country and they don’t eat cows. But somehow eating their cousin the water buffalo is ok. (I asked: they know it’s hypocritical but less observant Hindus think it’s delicious. It tastes like lean beef.)

A guesthouse on the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek. 8 things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal
A typical guesthouse on the Annapurna Base Camp trek where you will find a variety of Western and Nepali foods on the menu.

READ NEXT: 6 Reasons You Should Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal

Pack a First Aid Kit and Medications

It can be quite common to get sick when travelling as the local bacteria and viruses aren’t the same ones your body is used to back home. I often get an upset stomach while travelling (like I did in Nepal), and it sounds like unfortunately Amalia of amellie.net knows what that’s like. Bringing the right meds is what she wished she knew before going trekking in Nepal. She writes:

If you are trekking in Nepal, particularly if you are doing a multi-day hike, be sure that you are prepared with first aid kits and medications for general illnesses, including flu, fever, and diarrhoea.

I had a really bad diarrhoea when I was hiking towards Poon Hill. The diarrhoea, which might be caused by the foods that I ate or the water that I drank, made the whole hiking experience rather unpleasant. At that time, I was lucky to have a friend who brought some medicines with him, including some packets of oral rehydration salts. This helped me to recuperate the next day and I was able to continue the hike, albeit slowly with continuous breaks to toilets.

When I came back to Nepal 2 years later, I was better prepared with these medications and I couldn’t be happier! They helped me prevent from getting too ill during my hikes.

Follow Amalia’s travel adventures on her Instagram.

I recommend: I brought an Adventure Medical Ultralight first aid kit on my trip to Nepal. I like their kits since they come in a water resistant pouch. I always add more stuff to them, like more blister care and bandaids. Buy: MEC | REI. A multi-tool with a knife, pliers and scissors is always handy. I like the Leatherman Wave. Buy: MEC | REI

Annapurna Base Camp. 8 things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal
Annapurna Base Camp on the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek. Photo by Amalia of amellie.net.

BYOTP and Be Prepared for a Variety of Toilets

Bring Your Own Toilet Paper that is. And bring more than you think you’ll need in case you end up getting sick like Amalia and I did. That’s what I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal. You can buy toilet paper at guest houses on your trek (and some villages have small stores) but it gets more expensive the farther away from the road you get. The locals don’t use toilet paper, so TP for sale is at tourist prices. (The locals use water and their left hand.)

You may also want to be prepared for the toilet situation on your trek. The toilets vary widely from Western style flush toilets to squat style latrines. And there is lots of variety in between.

All non-flush toilets will have a bucket of water (and sometimes a tap) and a cup. The locals use this to clean themselves and also use the water to “flush” the toilet. There will never be toilet paper supplied, so make sure you bring your own each time you go to the bathroom. There often isn’t any clean or dry place to put your toilet paper inside the bathroom so I kept mine inside a plastic bag.

None of the plumbing is built to handle anything except water and waste. So there will also be a garbage can inside the bathroom for your toilet paper.

Outside the bathroom you’ll find a communal sink and sometimes a bar of soap. Be sure to bring your own soap or some alcohol hand sanitizer just in case. Keeping clean hands will decrease your chances of getting sick.

A guesthouse on the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek. 8 things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal
The toilet situation can vary from guesthouse to guesthouse, but many have Western toilets (thankfully).

READ NEXT: What to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Do Some Pre-Trek Hill and Stair Training

You don’t have to be a pro hiker to trek in Nepal, but you do need to be in reasonable shape. Danielle of world-smith.com did some training for her Annapurna Sanctuary trek, but still didn’t feel prepared for all the stairs. I feel ya, Danielle: those stairs are brutal! And like Amalia, she also wished she had brought meds from home. Here’s her story:

In retrospect, I think it was pretty brave of me to make the Annapurna Sanctuary in Nepal my first ever multi-day trek. While I love day hikes, I had never gone camping and stretched my time in the mountains to anything more than an afternoon here and there. The teahouse system in Nepal was a great way to ease into trekking – we always ended our days with a bed, a home cooked meal, and often a hot shower.

But healthwise, I do wish I had been more prepared. Not only was the trek primarily flagstone steps up and down – for which I should have done more rigorous stair training – but the altitude quickly snowed my long suffering boyfriend under with a bad cold, which I of course caught. Having anything wrong with your sinuses or respiratory system makes trekking at high altitude so much harder and much less enjoyable. Knowing now that it’s difficult to get good quality medicine in the Annapurnas, I would have packed more Sudafed and lots of cough drops!

Find out what Danielle has been up to lately on her Facebook page.

Annapurna Base Camp. 8 things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal
The view of Annapurna from Annapurna Base Camp. Photo by Danielle of world-smith.com

You Won’t Always Be Trekking Above the Treeline

Most photos of trekking in the Himalaya show mountain peaks and trails through rocky alpine terrain with no trees. But most treks start at much lower elevations below the treeline where there is lots of jungle vegetation and terraced fields. That’s one of the things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal. On my trek to Annapurna Base Camp we actually spent about 7.5 days of our 10 day trek at lower elevations with lots of jungle and cultivated fields. There were mountain views of course, and low elevation scenery is beautiful, but I just hadn’t expected so much of it. How much jungle and fields you will hike through depends on which trek you take, but most will have at least some at the beginning.

The jungle is gorgeous in it’s own way. There are bamboo and rhododendron forests. The rhododendron trees are huge – not the bushes we get here in Canada. And I imagine they are gorgeous when they bloom in the spring. You might also spot monkeys and Himalayan musk deer in the jungle. (We spotted both, but both sightings were brief so I don’t have any photos.)

Trekking through villages and terraced fields is also beautiful. Our guide is also a farmer in the off season so he taught us all about what was being grown: barley, maize, cabbage, tomatoes, melons and so much more. He also acted as an interpreter with the locals so we could learn more about how they live in the mountains. We saw women drying food for the winter and talked to a man running a small water powered mill. It was a unique cultural experience that I didn’t know I was going to have.

Terraced fields and jungle on the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek. 8 things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal
Trekking through terraced barley fields and jungle at lower elevations on the Annapurna Sanctuary trek.

I did a lot of research beforehand, but I wasn’t totally prepared for everything I encountered.  There were still quite a few things I wish I knew before going trekking in Nepal. Hopefully this post gives you more of an idea of what to expect. But of course, some things in a new place will always be a surprise, and that’s part of the adventure!

Do you have any “I wish I knew before I went” stories from your travels? Share them in the comments.

Read Next:

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The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Ice Caves in Iceland https://dawnoutdoors.com/ice-caves-iceland/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/ice-caves-iceland/#comments Sat, 16 Sep 2017 05:00:40 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=2541 Iceland is known as the land of fire and ice thanks to its many glaciers and volcanoes. You can actually go INSIDE the glaciers by taking an ice cave tour in Iceland! How cool is that? Before my winter trip to Iceland I had zillions of questions about the ice caves and how to visit …

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Iceland is known as the land of fire and ice thanks to its many glaciers and volcanoes. You can actually go INSIDE the glaciers by taking an ice cave tour in Iceland! How cool is that?

Before my winter trip to Iceland I had zillions of questions about the ice caves and how to visit them. So I did a bucketload of research before I went to the ice caves in Iceland.  And now I’m passing all that info along to you. (Was that a thank-you I heard? You’re welcome!)

So if you’ve seen those gorgeous photos of ice caves in Iceland online and are thinking about visiting one, I present to you everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves. (Well hopefully everything. If I missed something, hit me up in the comments.)

Here’s what you will find in this guide to ice caves in Iceland:

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

Inside an ice cave in Iceland. The Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland: Everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves in Iceland. Find out how to go INSIDE the Crystal Cave glacier ice cave to see the blue ice.
Looking out at the mouth of an ice cave in Iceland.

What are ice caves? How are ice caves formed?

The ice caves in Iceland are also known as the Crystal Caves since the light shining through the blue ice makes them look like crystals. There are actually several ice caves in Iceland whose form and location change each year as the glacier advances in the winter and melts in the summer.

In the summertime the warmer weather causes the glacier to melt. The meltwater carves channels in the glacier ice and eventually drains down into the interior of the glacier where it forms rushing rivers of freezing cold water. These freezing cold rivers form tunnels through the glacier.

In the winter, the glacier stops melting so the meltwater rivers stop flowing. The river tunnels from the summer are left behind as brilliantly blue crystalline ice caves… and tourists can visit them.

(Side note: I studied a bit of glaciology in university because I’m a huge geography nerd. This stuff is fascinating to me and that’s why I was so pumped to visit the ice caves in Iceland.)

When is the best time to visit the glacier ice caves in Iceland? Can I visit the glacier ice caves in summer?

Sorry, no you can’t visit the glacier ice caves in the summer.

The only time you can visit the ice caves in Iceland is in the winter from approximately mid-November until about mid-March.

The rest of the year the temperature is warmer and the glacier is slowly melting. The melting glacier sends rivers of icy cold water through the caves. As well, part of the caves can crack and collapse when it is warmer.  It is impossible to safely go inside the caves until the cold winter temperatures return.

The exception to this is the man-made ice cave at Langjokull which you can visit year-round.

Close-up of the blue ice formations in an ice cave in Iceland .The Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland: Everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves in Iceland. Find out how to go INSIDE the Crystal Cave glacier ice cave to see the blue ice.
Close-up of the blue ice formations in an ice cave in Iceland.

Where in Iceland are the ice caves?

The famous Crystal Cave ice caves are in Vatnajokull National Park in Southeast Iceland. It a 5-hour drive from Reykjavik. They are really close to Jokulsarlon, the glacier lagoon.

More recently, a few companies have started offering ice cave tours in the Mýrdalsjökull glacier near Vik (2.5 hours from Reykjavik) and at the Svínafellsjökull in Skaftafell National Park (4.5 hours from Reykjavik).

There is also a man-made ice cave at Langjokull closer about 1 hour from Reykjavik that you can visit, but I haven’t been there. From photos online it’s more of a rectangular ice hallway than a naturally sculpted ice cave.

How can I get to the ice caves in Iceland?

There are essentially two ways to get to the ice caves in the winter: rent a car and drive yourself or take a bus or mini-bus tour.

There are lots of bus tour and mini-bus tour companies running multi-day south coast tours of Iceland and some of these companies offer ice cave tours as part of their package. You can also book a Mýrdalsjökull glacier ice cave tour as a day trip from Reykjavik.

If you don’t want to take a tour you can rent a car and drive yourself. It’s easy to rent a car in Reykjavik or at the Keflavik airport. I use Discover Cars because it lets you compare prices from lots of different rental companies. That way I know I’m getting the best price.

If you choose this option, make sure you rent a 4 wheel drive car with studded tires and have some winter driving experience. (Check out this post for more Iceland winter driving tips.)

It’s also worth giving yourself tons of time to drive to your tour meeting point. If you are late for your tour due to weather, they will leave without you and you won’t be eligible for a refund.

Can I do a day trip to the ice caves from Reykjavik?

It depends on which ice caves you want to visit. If you want to visit the man-made Langjokull, or the Katla caves at Mýrdalsjökull you can do a day trip from Reykjavik.

But if you want to go to the famous ice caves at Vatnajokull on the south coast near Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, you can’t really do it in a day trip because it is too far. (And you won’t want to anyway since there is so much to see along the way.) The Vatnajokull ice caves are a 5 hour drive from Reykjavik.

In perfect conditions you’d spend 5 hours driving to the ice cave tour meeting point, 3 hours taking the tour and then 5 hours driving back. That’s 13 hours on the go and that doesn’t even give you time to stop at Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, the black sand beach at Vik or any of the numerous waterfalls on the way.  

In the winter, driving conditions in Iceland can be horrendous and there isn’t very much daylight so it will take longer. Play it safe and plan to spend a night or two in the area. (See my recommendations for where to book a hotel at the bottom of this post.)

Ice cave tour guide inside an ice cave in Iceland. The Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland: Everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves in Iceland. Find out how to go INSIDE the Crystal Cave glacier ice cave to see the blue ice.
Our ice cave tour guide explaining how the cave was formed.

Do I have to go on a tour to see the ice caves in Iceland?

Yup, you have to be on an ice cave tour.

The man-made glacier cave at Langjokull, is privately owned.

The other ice caves in Iceland are inside National Parks. On the way to the caves your tour group will pass through a National Park checkpoint. The National Park requires everyone going into the caves to be on a tour since glaciers are beautiful but deadly: if you aren’t careful you could fall into a crevasse and never be found or wander off into the wilderness and freeze to death!

Check Ice Cave tour prices here.

Which ice cave tour should I choose?

From reviews I’ve read online, most of the ice cave tours offer a pretty similar experience for a basic ice cave tour. 

The most basic type of tour is one that just visits a small, easily accessible ice cave. These tours are the shortest and least expensive. They often have larger group sizes (up to about 30). This is the type of tour that most people take.

When I visited the ice caves, I took a basic ice cave tour at Vatnajokull. You can also book a basic ice cave tour of the Katla caves near Vik or the man-made glacier tunnel at Langjokull.

There are also photography focused tours that visit other, more remote ice caves. Photography tours usually last longer, have smaller group sizes and may include a longer walk to get to the cave. These tours often aren’t advertised – you will need to contact the tour operator and inquire.

If you’ve seen stunning ice cave photos online, you’ve probably seen photos taken by professional photographers on photography focused tours – sometimes with professional lighting as well.

The mouth of an ice cave in Iceland. The Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland: Everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves in Iceland. Find out how to go INSIDE the Crystal Cave glacier ice cave to see the blue ice.
The mouth of the ice cave.

How much does it cost to see the ice caves in Iceland?

These tours are not cheap. Prices vary depending on which area of Iceland you take the tour in.

Tours leaving from Skaftafell tend to be the least expensive. It’s a long drive from Reykjavik (4.5 hours) but not as well known as the Crystal Caves near Jokulsarlon, which keeps prices down. You can get a short tour for as little as $106USD/108Euro.

Tours at the famous caves of Vatnajokull near Jokulsarlon start at about $145USD/$148Euro. These are the most popular ice caves and have the most tour options.

Tours to Katla near Vik start at about $163 USD/166 Euro. They cost more since they are closer to Reykjavik.

The Langjokull tours are the most expensive, starting at $265 USD/270Euro but they also include a northern lights experience. It’s more of a day tour with a few stops than a simple ice cave tour.

Check the latest prices here.

How far in advance should I book an ice cave tour?

As far in advance as possible. The ice cave tours often sell out. For my January trip, I booked my tour 2 months in advance and got some of the last spots available for my chosen date. Click here to check available dates.

Inside an ice cave in Iceland. The Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland: Everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves in Iceland. Find out how to go INSIDE the Crystal Cave glacier ice cave to see the blue ice.
Exploring an ice cave in Iceland.

Do I have to be a hardcore ice climber or an experienced hiker to take an ice cave tour?

No! Most of the ice cave tours are super easy and usually require only a few minutes of walking on ice to get to the entrance to the cave. (Sometimes the caves end up being further from the parking lot, but it is usually no more than a 30 min walk.)

Once you are inside the cave the floor is uneven but you don’t have to climb anything or crawl around. As long as you have basic fitness to walk on uneven ground, you should be fine. If you have mobility or physical fitness issues, contact the tour company and ask about current conditions before you book.

What should I expect on an ice cave tour? What do I get to see on an ice cave tour?

How your ice cave tour is laid out depends on what type of tour you book. For all tours you will start at the tour meeting point. Each company has its own tour meeting point.

If you are with a tour company, your bus will drop you off at the tour meeting point. If you are doing a self-drive tour in a rental car, you’ll have to drive yourself to the meeting point.

There should be lots of info on the tour company website and in your email confirmation for your tour booking about how to find your meeting point. Give yourself extra time to find it so you aren’t late for your tour.

After you arrive at your tour meeting point and check in with your tour company, make sure you use the bathroom. There are no bathrooms near the ice caves so you really want to make sure you head out with an empty bladder.

When your tour starts you board super jeep mini buses that seat 12-20 people. Super jeeps are basically Icelandic monster trucks: off road vehicles with giant tires and rugged suspensions.

Depending on where you are taking your tour, you mini-bus may drive up to an hour to the glacier. Some part of the drive may be on dirt roads that are VERY bumpy. (Tip: If you are prone to car sickness ask to sit in the front.)

On the way down the road you will pass through the National Park checkpoint.

Super jeep on the way to an ice cave in Iceland. The Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland: Everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves in Iceland. Find out how to go INSIDE the Crystal Cave glacier ice cave to see the blue ice.
Super jeep on the bumpy road on the way to the ice cave in Iceland.

Once you get to the parking lot, the guide will outfit you with a helmet and some mini-crampons for your shoes. The helmets are adjustable and will fit over your winter hat.

The mini-crampons are spikes for your shoes so you don’t wipe out on the ice. They come in small, medium and large sizes and are stretchy to fit over your boots. Your guide can help you find the right size.

Before you leave the parking area your guide will give you a safety briefing. Mostly they just say to walk where you are told to walk otherwise you could fall into a crevasse . No one wants that!

Then you’ll start the walk to the ice cave. Depending on how the caves form each season, the walk will be between 5 and 30 minutes long for the basic ice cave tour and much longer than that for more adventurous tours.

Once you get to the ice cave your guide will give you free time inside to explore and take pictures.

The caves are fairly small – about 50-100m deep and maybe 20m wide at the widest.

On a basic tour you will have about 30-45 minutes inside the cave.

There will also be people from other tour groups inside the cave so expect it to be a bit crowded at times.

(Again, those gorgeous ice cave photo you’ve seen online were probably taken in more remote ice caves during private photography sessions. The photos I’ve shared in this post were all taken during a basic ice cave tour with many other tourists from several groups all in the cave at once.)

The caves that you can visit on other types of tours can vary a lot per season but will likely be much less crowded. Ask your tour company for more details about what to expect inside the cave on other types of tours.

After the tour, your guide will drive you back to your tour meeting point. In total a basic tour will last 2-4 hours. Other tours will last 5-8 hours depending on what type of tour you book.

Tour groups inside an ice cave in Iceland. The Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland: Everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves in Iceland. Find out how to go INSIDE the Crystal Cave glacier ice cave to see the blue ice.
A busy time inside the ice cave. This was one of the busiest moments when I was there and at times it was difficult to get photos without people in them. However, if I waited a bit or moved to out of the way areas, it was ok.

What should I wear to visit the ice caves in Iceland?

Your tour organizer will provide all required safety gear: a helmet and mini-crampons (spikes for your shoes). If you take a late afternoon or early morning tour they will also give you a headlamp since it will be almost dark outside.

Most tour operators also rent hiking boots for a nominal fee (usually 1000ISK/$6.82USD/6.95Euro). You will bring your own winter clothing (although some tour providers do rent some clothing).

In general you’ll want to wear the same thing you’d wear winter hiking or skiing. Start with thermal long underwear made of wool or synthetic materials. (Here’s a great guide to the best thermals for Iceland.)

Add in a fleece jacket or puffy jacket. On the bottom wear insulated ski pants or rain pants. Wear a waterproof ski jacket on top.

Bring a warm wooly hat, warm gloves and warm wooly socks.

Wear hiking boots or sturdy winter boots. Avoid running shoes or any shoes that are low cut. (You want boots that cover the ankle that work better with the shoe spikes the guide will give you.)

Be sure to bring a camera and a small tripod if you have one. The best way to take good photos of the cave is to hold the camera very still. It’s easier to do this if you have a tripod. If you have a camera with manual functions, experiment with long exposures.

A tour group makes their way towards the mouth of an ice cave in Iceland. The Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland: Everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves in Iceland. Find out how to go INSIDE the Crystal Cave glacier ice cave to see the blue ice.
A tour group making their way into the mouth of the ice cave in Iceland.

What else is there to do in the area near the ice caves in Iceland?

A visit to the ice caves makes a great highlight to a winter tour of South Iceland. There are numerous must-see attractions along the drive from Reykjavik to the glacier ice caves near Jokulsarlon.

These include the famous waterfalls at Seljalandfoss, Skogafoss and Svartifoss, the black sand beach at Vik, Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, the glaciers at Skaftafell and the glacier lagoon Jokulsarlon.

I recommend spending a few nights on the south coast in the winter. (You should plan to stay within easy driving distance of the ice caves the night before your tour.) For itinerary suggestions, check out my post about my winter week in Iceland.

Where should I book a hotel near the ice caves in Iceland?

If you are part of a tour, they will arrange your lodging. But if you choose to drive yourself, you’ll need to book a hotel within easy driving distance of the ice caves.

If you are going to the man-made ice cave at Langjokull it makes sense to stay in Reykjavik since tours leave from there.

If you are taking a tour to Katla cave on Mýrdalsjökull glacier near Vik you can stay in Reykjavik 2.5 hours away. But I recommend staying in Vik and spending some time on the south coast. On my trip we stayed at the Farmhouse Lodge – it’s a cozy semi-rural property.

For tours to Svínafellsjökull in Skaftafell National Park you can book a room at Hotel Skaftafell or the quirky Potato Storage, the only nearby accommodations. You can also look for hotels in Hof, which is about 20 minutes away.

If you are going to the famous Crystal Cave ice caves in Vatnajokull National Park in Southeast Iceland, plan to stay near the Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon. When searching, look for hotels and guesthouses near Jokulsarlon, Hof or Hofn. That way you’ll be no more than an hour’s drive or so from your tour meeting point.

I stayed at the brand new Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon which was in a great location in between Jokulsarlon and my tour’s meeting point. It’s pretty fancy, so for me it was a splurge. If you are looking for a budget option, check out Guesthouse Nypugardar in Hofn. I stayed there on a summer trip to Iceland back in 2015.

Inside an ice cave in Iceland. The Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland: Everything you ever needed to know about visiting ice caves in Iceland. Find out how to go INSIDE the Crystal Cave glacier ice cave to see the blue ice.
Admiring the beautiful blue ice inside an ice cave in Iceland.

A visit to the ice caves in Iceland takes a bit of money and time to visit them. But for me it was a bucketlist item and totally worth doing. I hope I answered all your questions about the ice caves. If there is anything else you’d like to know, please ask in the comments and I’d be happy to answer.

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A Winter Week in Iceland: 35 Photos That Will Make You Want to Visit https://dawnoutdoors.com/winter-week-in-iceland/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/winter-week-in-iceland/#comments Fri, 10 Feb 2017 17:03:23 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=1763 I first went to Iceland in May and June of 2014 with a group of friends. We drove the ring road, hiked on remote trails where the only other hikers were sheep, soaked in a hot river, stayed up almost all night with the midnight sun and pretty much had a blast for three weeks …

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I first went to Iceland in May and June of 2014 with a group of friends. We drove the ring road, hiked on remote trails where the only other hikers were sheep, soaked in a hot river, stayed up almost all night with the midnight sun and pretty much had a blast for three weeks straight. And on the plane home I vowed to come back. So this January my husband and I headed to Iceland for a week. We wanted to see what our beloved Iceland looked like in the winter. Here’s the day-by-day highlights of a winter week in Iceland.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

A Winter Week in Iceland Day 1: Reykjavik

On our first day, we landed in Keflavik airport, about 45 minutes outside of Reykjavik, at around 7am. By the time we picked up our luggage and rental car and made our way into the city to start sightseeing, it was still dark out. We stopped in at Sandholt, my favourite (but expensive) Reykjavik bakery, before heading up the hill to Hallgrimskirkja.

Hallgrimskirkja (Hallgrim’s church) is probably Reykjavik’s most recognizable landmark: it’s one of the tallest buildings, it sits on top of a hill, and it has some pretty distinctive architecture. So of course we headed there first. This photo was taken at about 9:45am when the first blue light of the day was starting to creep into the sky.

Hallgrimskirkja just before dawn in January. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Hallgrimskirkja just before dawn.

Next we spent a fun (and rainy!) few hours walking around Reykjavik with Hrannar from the I Heart Reykjavik walking tour. If you want some local insight into what the city is really like, plus recommendations on where to eat, get a drink, or buy souvenirs, this is the tour to take.

After the tour we visited the 1000 year old ruins of a Viking house at the Settlement Exhibition. By afternoon, I was feeling the jetlag so we headed back to our Airbnb for dinner, followed by lots of sleeping.

A Winter Week Iceland Day 2: Seljalandfoss, Skogafoss, Reynisfjara and Dyrholaey

Day two started with driving into a snow storm in the dark. By the time the sun came up it was time for a couple quick waterfall stops. We started with Seljalandfoss, and its neighbour, Gljúfrabúi (which is hidden in a cave!), before driving a few minutes to Skogafoss. But since we knew we would be back that way again, we didn’t stay long. Plus the weather wasn’t that encouraging.

Trying to take photos at Seljalandfoss in blowing snow is not that fun.
Gljúfrabúi waterfall in a cave in Iceland. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Visiting Gljúfrabúi requires wading through a creek and then shielding your camera from the spray to take photos inside the cave. It’s totally worth it though.
Skogafoss in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Feeling dwarfed by huge Skogafoss

Thankfully the weather started to clear up shortly after we left Skogafoss. We stopped on the road for some quick photos of the patches of blue sky and Iceland’s beautiful mountains.

Winter road on the south coast of Iceland. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Roadside views along the South Coast.

After Seljalandfoss we drove to the Reynisfjara, the black sand beach near the town of Vik. I had been to black sand beaches before (in Hawaii) but it was a first for me to be on a black sand beach that had snow on it! We enjoyed the view across to the Dyrholaey headland and watching people take photos with the rock columns. We stayed well back from the surf though, because just a few days before a family of tourists had been caught by a rogue wave. Sadly the mother didn’t make it. She was the third fatality in 10 years at this beach.

Reynisfjara black sand beach in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Snow on the black sand beach and the view across to Dyrholaey
Reynisfjara black sand beach and columns. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
The basalt columns and rock formations at Reynisfjara black sand beach.

Next we headed over to the headland, Dyrholaey. It is a popular bird nesting area in the spring but there were no birds in January. We took in the views while being pushed around by crazy winds and the occasional burst of hail. Afterwards, we headed into Vik for dinner and then to our farmstay at Guesthouse Steig for more sleeping off the jetlag. It’s a great rural property and I’m sure it would be adorable in the spring during lambing season.

The view from Dyrholaey in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
The view of the black sand beach from Dyrholaey headland.
Dyrholaey in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Looking west from Dyrholaey.

A Winter Week in Iceland Day 3: Vik, Fjaðrárgljúfur, and Svartifoss

While getting gas in Vik on the morning of the third day of our winter week in Iceland, I noticed how beautiful the town and the nearby beach looked in the pre-dawn light so we spent some time taking photos before hitting the road.

Vik, Iceland in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
An early morning view of Vik.
Pre-dawn light at Vik in winter in Iceland: 7 Things You Might Not Know About Winter in Iceland
Visiting the beach at Vik in the long blue hour before dawn

Our first stop of the day was at Fjaðrárgljúfur, a beautiful mossy canyon. The signature green moss pillows were blanketed in snow, so it looked quite different than the photos I had seen online. The trails in the area were quite slippery so were glad we had packed our microspikes.

Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon covered in snow.

With the limited daylight and the long drive on this day, it was getting late by the time we got to Skaftafell. Skaftafell is part of Vatnajokull National Park and has spectacular glaciers. You can see them without even leaving the highway! We did the short hike to see Svartifoss and its trademark basalt columns. The columns form when lava cools. How awesome is that? (Caution: Geology nerd alert!)

We finished our day at the fancy new Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon. It’s perfectly located near the glacier lagoon AND the ice cave tours, both of which were on our itinerary for the next day. Before bed we headed to the beautiful hotel bar to enjoy a cocktail. This the most expensive place we stayed on our trip, but we both agreed that it was worth the splurge.

Skaftafell in winter. Iceland roads in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
The highway looks as if it will drive into the glaciers at Skaftafell
Svartifoss in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Svartifoss was framed by beautiful long icicles.

 

A Winter Week in Iceland Day 4: Jokulsarlon and the Crystal Ice Cave

We started our fourth day on the black sand beach across from the glacier lagoon, Jokulsarlon. The beach is also known as the Diamond Beach since the icebergs wash up on the shore and sparkle. The light at sunrise was incredible, even if it was a bit overcast.

Icebergs at Diamond beach at dawn. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Icebergs at Diamond Beach at first light.

We spent the next few hours wandering the shore of the lagoon, mesmerized by the floating ice. After a while we also headed back down to the beach to see the icebergs in full daylight.

Jokulsarlon in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Joining the crowds of tourists transfixed by the shifting icebergs.
Diamond beach icebergs. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
This iceberg at Diamond beach is not as big as it looks 😉

We knew we had to leave around lunchtime since we had booked an ice cave tour for the afternoon. But just as we were getting ready to leave, the clouds cleared, the sun came out, we could see the vast glacier where the icebergs were born… and it was the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. The wind even calmed down so we could get reflections in the water.

Jokulsarlon in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
A random tourist celebrates the sun coming out.
Jokulsarlon in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
When the clouds lifted we got a great view of the mountains behind Jokulsarlon.
Jokulsarlon in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Blue sky and clouds reflected in Jokulsarlon
Jokulsarlon in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Some of the icebergs were fabulously turquoise.

It was hard, but we had to tear ourselves away from Jokulsarlon and head to our pre-booked ice cave tour. I wasn’t sure what to expect with the cave tour, but it was pretty cool. We visited a cave called the Crystal Cave and got to spend about 45 minutes exploring inside. It wasn’t very big, but the light coming in through the ceiling illuminating the ice formations was incredible.

After the ice cave tour we had a long, dark, snowy and stormy drive all the way back to Vik again. In Vik we stayed in a different guesthouse than before. Guesthouse Hatun 8 was right in the village so we could walk to the pub for dinner. Like many inexpensive guesthouses in Iceland, our accommodation was actually located in an annex of someone’s house. Our hosts were super helpful and made sure we had everything we needed.

Ice cave tour in Iceland. Crystal cave iceland. Glacier ice cave tour in Iceland. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Exploring the Crystal Cave on our ice cave tour.
Crystal Ice Cave during winter in Iceland. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
The entrance to the cave.

A Winter Week in Iceland Day 5: Skogafoss, Seljavallalaug, Seljalandfoss and the Secret Lagoon

We started our the fifth day of our winter week in Iceland with a dawn visit to Skogafoss. We beat all of the tour buses there and managed to get the falls to ourselves for a few short minutes!

Skogafoss in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
A deserted Skogafoss at dawn.

Our next stop was Seljavallalaug, Iceland’s oldest swimming pool. It is an 100-year old concrete pool fed by a natural hot spring. We knew the water wasn’t going to be warm enough for soaking (it is only 25C and most good hotsprings are 35-40C) so we didn’t bring our bathing suits. We enjoyed the short walk up the valley to check out the pool in winter. But first some adorable Icelandic horses in a nearby field totally distracted us. They have the best hair!

Icelandic horses in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Adorable Icelandic horses. Don’t call them ponies – they get sassy if you do that.
Winter hiking in Iceland. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Hiking to Seljavallalaug
Geothermal swimming pool Seljavallalaug in winter in Iceland. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Iceland’s oldest geothermal swimming pool, Seljavallalaug, in winter.

When we got back on to the highway we soon saw a car off the side of the road. It had spun out on the ice and gone through a wire fence into a farmer’s field. As we drove past we saw that there were still people in the car. We stopped immediately and ran to help. There were two American women in the car and thankfully they were fine, but the car was really stuck. Another tourist stopped too. He offered to drive the Americans to find a tractor to pull them out so we continued on our way to Seljalandfoss.

Winter driving in Iceland. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
These tourists managed to get their car pretty stuck in this farmer’s field.

On our second visit to Seljalandfoss the weather was a little calmer.  (Thankfully there was no sideways snow this time!) We brought our microspikes so we could walk up the ice covered staircase and go behind the falls. Several inches of bumpy ice covered the entire pathway and cave behind the falls. Such a cool experience! There were lots of other tourists at the falls but no one else had spikes. So we were some of the only people behind the falls.

Seljalandfoss in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Walking on ice behind Seljalandfoss.

After leaving Seljalandfoss we turned away from the South Coast and headed towards the Golden Circle. Our last stop of the day was the hotsprings at the Secret Lagoon in the town of Flúðir. (A winter week in Iceland would not be complete without a visit to some hot springs!) There has been a pool at that hot spring since the late 1800s, but it was abandoned in the 1940s after a more modern swimming pool was built. The pool filled with sediment and was forgotten until the owners refurbished it and opened in 2016 as the Secret Lagoon.

The Secret Lagoon is a natural geothermal hot spring piped into a man made pool with an attached changing facility and lounge (similar to the Blue Lagoon but on a much smaller scale). However, the pool at the Secret Lagoon still looks like a natural hot spring with rock and moss walls surrounding it. They even kept the old and crumbling original changing house.

And the best part: there is a mini-geysir right next to the pool that goes off every few minutes. And when it goes off, the water in the part of the pool nearest to the geysir gets hotter! So cool! I’ve been to quite a few hotsprings in Iceland, but the Secret Lagoon is my new favourite. It was too rainy when we arrived at the hot springs and too dark when we left so I don’t have any good photos. So here’s one from their website:

Secret Lagoon in Iceland. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
The Secret Lagoon in better weather. Photo credit www.secretlagoon.is

After our soak in the Secret Lagoon we headed to over to our hotel in Reykholt, Guesthouse Fagrilundur. This was the cutest place we stayed on our trip. It’s a two story wooden house that looks like a ski chalet. It’s set in its own grove of trees (a rarity in Iceland!) so it was very peaceful. Rather than trying to do the whole Golden Circle in one day from Reykjavik, consider staying the night. That way you get some of the sights to yourself in the evenings and the early mornings. There are lots of small towns to stay in. We stayed in Reykholt, but you could also book accommodation in Laugarvatn, Flúðir or Skalholt.

A Winter Week in Iceland Day 6: Gullfoss and Thingvellir

Once again we were on the road early to make it to Gullfoss for first light. It’s one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world and was spectacular on our previous summer visit to Iceland. I had hoped for a spectacular sunrise, but sadly the low clouds stuck around. The paths around the falls were really icy so we were glad we had our microspikes. Unfortunately the path down to the lower viewing platform was closed for the winter because it was too icy, so we could only view the falls from above.

Gullfoss in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
A wintery view of Gullfoss. The path in the middle is the one that was closed for winter (sadly).

After Gullfoss we skipped Geysir (it was raining and we had seen it before), and headed to Thingvellir in hopes of better weather. The weather was crazy windy (typical Iceland) so we spent a little bit of time exploring the rift. We even saw people getting into wet suits to go snorkelling between the tectonic plates in Silfra! We hoped to spend more time walking the trails, but the wind picked up more and it started to rain heavily, so we decided to cut our losses and head to Reykjavik.

Thingvellir in winter. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Walking in the rift at Thingvellir.

On the way we made a quick stop at Alafoss in Mosfellsbaer, Iceland’s oldest wool factory, to buy a handknit lopapeysa sweater for Greg. Then we checked in to our Airbnb, cooked some dinner, and vegged out on the couch, thankful we were out of the rain.

A Winter Week in Iceland Day 7: Reykjavik

On the last full day of our winter week in Iceland we headed back to Hallgrimskirkja to go up the tower. It’s not the tallest building in Iceland anymore, but it is a lot taller than pretty much everything else, so the view is great. The colourful houses of Reykjavik really stand out from above. (If you’re curious, the tallest building is an office tower in Kopavogur, a suburb of Reykjavik, that is a whole 3.5 meters taller than Hallgrimskirkja).

The view from Hallgrimskirkja. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
The view from Hallgrimskirkja

Next we walked over to Harpa, the concert hall and conference space on the waterfront. The architecture here is like nothing I’ve ever seen: tessellated glass and mirrors mixed with hard concrete and straight lines. We spent a surprisingly long time wandering around gawking at it from different angles.

Harpa in Reykjavik. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
The prism glass windows and mirror mosaic ceiling of Harpa.
Harpa in Reykjavik. A winter week in Iceland. Iceland in January. 35 Photos that will make you want to go to Iceland in winter.
Some of the prism windows are tinted for a modern take on a stained glass effect.

We had lunch at Saegreifinn (Sea Baron (killer fish skewers) and then did some window shopping along Laugavegur. That night we splurged on a fancy dinner at Snaps Bistro to celebrate a fabulous trip in Iceland. We flew home the following day, sad to leave Iceland yet again, and once again vowing to return. (Maybe in fall next time? I haven’t been in fall yet!)

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about my winter week in Iceland. If you are planning your own trip to Iceland don’t forget to check out my post about things you might not know about winter in Iceland.

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7 Things You Might Not Know About Winter in Iceland https://dawnoutdoors.com/winter-in-iceland/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/winter-in-iceland/#comments Sun, 29 Jan 2017 16:41:42 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=1677 I recently got back from my second trip to Iceland, and my first trip in the winter. Having visited in both summer and winter, I am hard pressed to say which is more beautiful. But I can say that going to Iceland in the winter is definitely a great idea: it’s a winter wonderland! Iceland …

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I recently got back from my second trip to Iceland, and my first trip in the winter. Having visited in both summer and winter, I am hard pressed to say which is more beautiful. But I can say that going to Iceland in the winter is definitely a great idea: it’s a winter wonderland! Iceland has become very popular with tourists in the last few years, so it is easy to find info online about visiting. However, I couldn’t find that much about winter in Iceland. So after going in winter, here’s my list of 7 things you might not know about winter in Iceland.

Hey there: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting my website! -Taryn

Off Season Sightseeing

Tourism in Iceland has exploded, and winter is no longer the slow season it once was. It is still a bit quieter than the peak summer season though. You will find crowds at the more popular attractions, but once you get out of reach of the bus tours , you can have some places mostly to yourself. (My tip is to hit attractions at off-peak times for the bus tours, such as sunrise or sunset.)

Skogafoss in winter in Iceland: 7 Things You Might Not Know About Winter in Iceland
Can you imagine actually getting all 60 meters of Skogafoss to yourself? Go in early morning in the winter!

It’s worth noting that some of the signature sights aren’t available in the winter in Iceland: The puffins will be out in the Atlantic until the spring, snow covers the ubiquitous moss, and all the sheep are inside warm barns. As well, some areas are closed due to winter conditions. This includes the highlands and the popular hiking areas of Landmannalaugar and Thorsmork. Other areas might be partially closed due to slippery conditions, such as some of the viewpoints at Gullfoss and the hiking trails above Skogafoss.

But there are some experiences you can only have in the winter in Iceland: seeing the aurora borealis, icicle draped waterfalls, snow covered mountains and going on a glacier ice cave tour.

The Crystal Ice Cave during winter in Iceland: 7 Things You Might Not Know About Winter in Iceland
Visiting the Crystal Ice Cave – something you can only do during the winter in Iceland. Curious about the ice caves? I wrote a whole post about them.

 

Short Days

In the summertime, Iceland is the land of the midnight sun and it never really gets dark. The opposite is true in the winter in Iceland. The days are short with sunrise around 10:30am and sunset around 4:30pm. That gives you about 6 hours of full daylight to get your sightseeing in. Yet, the blue hours around dawn and dusk last nearly an hour, which give you plenty of beautiful light for photos. On my recent trip, we noted the sunrise and sunset times for each day and planned to be at our first stop of the day in time for the sunrise.

Pre-dawn light at Vik in winter in Iceland: 7 Things You Might Not Know About Winter in Iceland
Visiting the beach at Vik in the long blue hour before dawn

 

Winter Driving

Winter driving in Iceland is no joke since the roads can often be a sheet of ice or covered in wet snow. If you aren’t used to driving in winter conditions, it can be a bit scary.  If you rent a car make sure you get one with studded tires and 4 wheel drive. Even with the proper vehicle you should still drive slowly and cautiously. (We met two American women who spun out into a farmer’s field in an all-wheel drive Subaru with studded tires!) Check the weather and road conditions before you set out each day. (Bookmark umferdin.is and vedur.is for that.)

But don’t let me scare you off renting a car if you are comfortable with winter driving. It’s the best way to see Iceland! (And there’s no shame in being too scared to self-drive. If that’s you, there are tons of bus tours or smaller super jeep tours you can book).

Winter driving in Iceland: 7 Things You Might Not Know about Winter in Iceland
Typical winter driving in Iceland: a snow and ice covered road and limited visibility.

Winter Weather

While it is called “ice” land, it’s actually not that cold in the winter in Iceland. Temperatures hover just above or below freezing so you will need winter clothes, but not full on polar explorer winter clothes. However, it seems like it is always windy in Iceland. The wind can make it feel much, MUCH colder than the thermometer says it is.  Since the temperature can be just above freezing, it is often warm enough to rain in the winter in Iceland. Make sure your packing list includes rain gear, and warm layers to go underneath.

Seljalandfoss in winter in Iceland: 7 Things You Might Not Know About Winter in Iceland
Trying to take photos at Seljalandfoss in blowing snow is not easy!

The weather in Iceland is always very changeable. I’ve experienced sun, rain, snow, hail, fog and harsh wind, all in the same day in Iceland. Even with all that changeability, the winter weather in Iceland is usually on the overcast and grey side. It doesn’t make the landscape any less beautiful, and it makes those moments of sunshine even more special.

Jokulsarlon, the glacier lagoon, in winter in Iceland: 7 Things You Might Not Know About Winter in Iceland
The sun comes out over the glacier lagoon, Jokulsarlon, in winter.

 

Seeing the Northern Lights

All that darkness, combined with its northern latitude, make Iceland a great location to see the Northern Lights. (Aurora-based tours are very popular. ) However, if you have your own rental car or are travelling outside of Reykjavik, you don’t need to go on a tour. You just need to keep an eye on the aurora forecast, then drive somewhere dark. Keep in mind that Iceland’s typically cloudy weather may make it impossible to spot the Northern Lights. I was in Iceland for 7 nights and unfortunately did not see the aurora borealis 🙁

You Will Still Want to go Swimming

Just because it’s cold outside doesn’t mean Icelanders stop going to swimming pools and hot pots. Everyone in Iceland loves swimming, every town has a swimming pool and Iceland’s official road atlas has a map at the back that shows the location of every swimming pool in Iceland. It’s a national pastime. The pools use naturally occurring geothermal heat from the volcanoes underneath the country and can be quite warm. So don’t forget to pack your bathing suit. Sitting in the steaming water of a hot pool surrounded by snow is a quintessentially Icelandic winter experience. The Blue Lagoon is on many people’s bucket list (and it is a unique experience) but on my recent winter trip I found the laid back old-school vibe of the newly opened Secret Lagoon to be more my style. We also visited Seljavallalaug, Iceland’s oldest swimming pool, but with water temperatures at only 25C, it felt too cold outside to get in. (For comparison, most hot pools are around 35-40C).

Thermal swimming pool Seljavallalaug in winter in Iceland: 7 Things You Might Not Know About Winter in Iceland
Iceland’s oldest geothermal swimming pool, Seljavallalaug, in winter.

 

The Locals Wear Wool Sweaters (That Make the Best Souvenirs)

A handknit Icelandic wool sweater, called a lopapeysa is the best souvenir you can buy for winter in Iceland. They are knit from a thick wool that is a bit scratchy, but super warm. Locals wear them all winter in Iceland since they are far warmer than other sweaters.

I bought one during my first trip there in May of 2014 but it wasn’t really cold enough to wear it. I brought my lopapeysa to Iceland with me on my recent winter trip and was so glad I did. It was warmer than my fleece jacket! Plan to buy a lopapeysa at the beginning of your trip. That way you’ll have something super warm to wear, you’ll have a unique handmade souvenir and you won’t have to pack as many warm layers from home. Plus if you wear your lopapeysa in Iceland and have fair colouring like my husband, people might even mistake you for a local.

The best place to buy a genuine handknitted lopapeysa is at Alafoss in Mosfellsbaer (a suburb of Reykjavik) or at the Handknitting Association of Iceland Shop on Skólavörðustígur in central Reykjavik. (Avoid the made-in-China knock-offs sold at tons of shops on Laugavegur.) You might find the prices for these sweaters a little shocking compared to a chain store wool sweater you can buy at home, but keep in mind that these are hand knit in Iceland, from wool that was grown, harvested, spun and dyed in Iceland. And that almost nothing in Iceland is cheap. I think lopapeysa are well worth the price.

Lopapeysa Icelandic sweater at Harpa: 7 Things You Might Not Know About Iceland in Winter
Greg wearing his lopapeysa at Harpa

Check out my full day by day trip report post if you want to hear all about my winter trip to Iceland. Would you travel to Iceland in the winter? Or would you prefer seeing it in the summer time? Tell me in the comments. (For me, it’s like asking me to choose which child I love more!)

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6 Reasons You Should Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal https://dawnoutdoors.com/hire-a-trekking-guide-in-nepal/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/hire-a-trekking-guide-in-nepal/#comments Sun, 23 Oct 2016 17:11:21 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=1482 Do you NEED to hire a trekking guide in Nepal? No! It’s easy to get around on your own. But SHOULD you hire a trekking guide in Nepal? Yes, definitely! I’m an experienced backpacker and have planned dozens of wilderness trips in North America, so at first I was a bit resistant to hiring a …

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Do you NEED to hire a trekking guide in Nepal? No! It’s easy to get around on your own. But SHOULD you hire a trekking guide in Nepal? Yes, definitely! I’m an experienced backpacker and have planned dozens of wilderness trips in North America, so at first I was a bit resistant to hiring a guide in Nepal. (I thought guides were just for inexperienced people.) But I was wrong. I’m so glad I hired a guide. It made my trek to Annapurna Base Camp so much less stressful, so much more culturally enriched, and so much more fun. So here are my 6 reasons you should hire a trekking guide in Nepal.

READ NEXT: 8 Things I Wish I Knew Before Going Trekking in Nepal

Navigation and Itineraries

Most trekking routes in Nepal are fairly easy to follow. If you’re not sure, you can always ask locals or other trekkers which way to go. Therefore, navigation isn’t the main reason to hire a trekking guide in Nepal. But, there can be confusing places with unsigned junctions or areas where new roads have been constructed overtop of trekking routes and your guide can help with that. On my trek, we did meet a couple of trekkers that trekked an extra hour downhill by accident, then had to come all the way back up… in the pouring rain. Oops!

Where your guide is helpful, however, is knowing the trekking route inside-out to design an itinerary that works for you. Within a day or two your guide will know your hiking pace and preferences and can adjust lunch and break stops to accommodate it. You can ask your guide “How long until lunch?” and he will know the route well enough to tell you it is 90 minutes away at your pace, even if the guidebook says it will take more (or less) time.

Hiring a trekking guide in Nepal who knows the area well is also great when the weather doesn’t cooperate: Our guide took us to tea stalls to wait out rainstorms. He woke us up at first light when the views of the mountains were best (and let us sleep in when it was cloudy). He also encouraged us to stick around for a few hours at the Poon Hill viewpoint when the sunrise was cloudy, even as other guides led their clients back down to breakfast. He was right: the clouds cleared and we got wonderful views that many others missed (and we didn’t mind that breakfast was late).

A trekking guide also has the knowledge to make more drastic changes to the itinerary on the fly: I got heatstroke on my trek and wasn’t able to hike as far as we planned. Our guide knew of an out-of-the-way guesthouse along the way we could stop.  If we had been on our own we wouldn’t have known where to stop and would have walked into the night looking for a place to sleep.

Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal
Early morning views from the guesthouse patio. Our guide Chandra woke us up so we wouldn’t miss the views and then gave us each peak’s name and height.

Advanced Bookings and Logistics

When your plane touches down in Kathmandu, all you have to do is put on your boots and go trekking – your guide will take care of everything else. Your trekking guide can take care of all the advanced bookings and logistics for you, including booking hotel rooms for the days before and after your trek in Kathmandu, Pokhara, Lukla or elsewhere, arranging transportation to and from the trailhead (by bus, jeep, airplane, etc.), and picking up trekking permits. You can do all of this yourself of course, but some of it can only be done in person in Nepal, so you will need to take an extra day of your vacation to essentially run errands. It’s much better to have a guide to take care of it. You can also email your guide when planning your trip to ask for advice on what to pack or to ask any questions about the trek.

On the trail, your guide will know which guesthouses in the village have better rooms or better food (although they usually all fairly similar). He will also know which guesthouses have Western style toilets and more reliable hot showers (and that’s important info!) A guide can also call ahead to the next guesthouse to reserve a room (which only necessary in the busy season). Often your guide will have a good working relationship with the staff at the guesthouses and can arrange for you to get a room with a view or even an ensuite bathroom. At one guesthouse, our guide was friends with the owners family and they shared the wild mushrooms they had harvested that day with us, served on top of a tasty pizza.

If you decide you want to hire a porter rather than carry your own gear, your guide can hire a one for you and determine how many porters your group will need. It will usually be someone from the guide’s trekking agency or a person they have worked with before, so you won’t have to worry about someone dodgy running off down the trail with all your stuff. As well, while most guides are not porters (that is you are paying them only to guide you, not to carry your things), in a pinch they can help shoulder the load. When I got sick on my trek, our guide carried some of the contents of my bag, and then when I got worse, he carried my whole backpack as well as his own.

READ NEXT: What to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal
Posing at Poon Hill with our guide, Chandra

Language

Most people in Nepal speak at least a few words of English (and many speak it quite well) but it is still helpful to hire a trekking guide in Nepal to help translate or to clarify what you want. Our guide helped us order food at guesthouses to ask about menu substitutions or just to see what was fresh that day.

Our guide also taught us a few words in Nepal, which was great for breaking the ice with the locals. When walking through a village I would sometimes call out “Namaste” (Hello) to the farmers who would break out into big smiles when I also said “Namaste cikana! Namaste kukura! Namaste biralo!” (Hello, chicken! Hello, dog! Hello, cat!) to their animals.

Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal
We met this Gurung man along the trail and stopped to ask him about the traditional bamboo basket he was weaving. Our guide was able to translate for us.

Cultural Experience

Unlike hiking in North America, trekking in Nepal is more of a cultural experience than a wilderness experience. You do get amazing mountain views and wild forest jungles, but mostly you are trekking through villages where local people live and farm, and have done so for generations. And being on the trail for hours a day, you need to pass the time somehow. I found chatting with our guide about what we were seeing and about Nepal in general, made the hours fly by. Our guide patiently answered all my questions about everything Nepali including politics, religion, arranged marriage, geography, and everything in between.

Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal
Walking through a village, chatting about local culture.

Our guide grew up in the area and told us all about the farming practices there, including which plants were cultivated, when they were harvested, and how they were preserved. And of course, when we ordered meals, he tried to find places that would serve us dishes with plants we had seen growing locally instead of just the standard trekker’s fried noodles. At the end of our trek, our guide invited us to his home where we met his wife, children and other members of his family and shared a home-cooked meal. The added cultural experience that our guide gave us was definitely the most valuable part of his services. I really felt like I had experienced the Nepal that locals know, not just the touristy parts of Nepal. And by the end, our guide didn’t feel like an employee, but like a friend.

Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal
Posing for pictures with our guide Chandra at Annapurna Base Camp

READ NEXT: Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp

Low Cost to You and High Benefit to the Local Economy

Hiring a trekking guide in Nepal might sound expensive, but it is actually really cheap for Westerners. The daily rate (as of fall 2016) for a certified trekking guide in Nepal is around $20-30USD (plus tips of course). If you split the cost between a couple people, it’s about the price of a fast food meal back home. From what I can tell, the guides are paid fairly and working as a trekking guide is a well-paying job. Unemployment and poverty are high in Nepal and many men leave Nepal for the Persian Gulf or South East Asia where they work as labourers, sending money home to their families that they can’t afford to fly back to visit. By hiring a trekking guide in Nepal, you help provide important jobs for Nepalis that keep them closer to their families.

Tourism is Nepal’s largest economic sector. However, the 2015 earthquakes have scared many tourists away from Nepal. The earthquake damaged some of the cultural sites and a few trekking routes, but the majority of the trekking routes (including the Annapurna Base Camp route that I trekked) were largely unaffected. The tourism industry in Nepal is suffering and one of the best things you can do to help Nepal recover is to go visit and spend your money at local businesses, including trekking agencies.

Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal
Our guide Chandra at Poon Hill

Increased Morale

Trekking in Nepal is beautiful and for the most part, it is not too strenuous, but it is also not easy. The endless stone steps to climb and descend, the temperamental weather, the thin air at altitude and the long days on your feet can all wear on your psyche. A good guide will keep your spirits up, distracting you with cultural facts, suggesting you stop for a hot cup of tea, telling jokes, or pointing out a beautiful waterfall you might have missed while staring at your boots. Our guide Chandra’s near constant smile was infectious and I often smiled as well, even if I really wasn’t that happy to be walking in the rain. Each day Chandra would find the day’s best moment and make sure we commemorated with a group photo where we held up our fingers to show what day of the trek it was.

Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal
Celebrating a milestone on day 6 of our trek: reaching Annapurna Base Camp

Bonus: Tips for Hiring a Trekking Guide in Nepal

We didn’t have to do that much work to find a trekking guide as a co-worker recommended our guide, Chandra of Friendly Trekkers Adventures. Chandra was wonderful (so wonderful that I wrote a whole blog post about why you should hire a trekking guide). I highly recommend him or any of the other guides from his trekking agency.

My advice for hiring a trekking guide in Nepal is to ask people who have hired a guide in the past. If you don’t know anyone personally, ask on travel message boards or read TripAdvisor reviews of trekking companies in Pokhara and Kathmandu. Choose a guide who is familiar with the trekking area and speaks Nepali and English well. Hire a local Nepali guide from a Nepali trekking agency that is registered with TAAN, the trekking guide regulatory body. Correspond with your guide by phone or email to ensure you have a good fit before booking. Many Western tour operators offer guided packages that use both Western and Nepali guides. These packages can be very expensive and may not give you the same local cultural experience as hiring a Nepali. (As well, much of your money stays with the Western tour operator instead of going to the local economy.)

Do you have more questions about what it’s like to trek with a guide? Ask me in the comments!

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Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp https://dawnoutdoors.com/trekking-annapurna-base-camp/ https://dawnoutdoors.com/trekking-annapurna-base-camp/#comments Thu, 13 Oct 2016 06:41:15 +0000 https://dawnoutdoors.com/?p=1405 In early September of 2016, I went to Nepal to go trekking to Annapurna Base Camp with my husband and two friends. Here’s the story  (and tons of photos) from my ten-day trek. Our guide Chandra, of Pokhara-based Friendly Trekkers Adventures, put together an itinerary for us that had us heading to the viewpoint at …

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In early September of 2016, I went to Nepal to go trekking to Annapurna Base Camp with my husband and two friends. Here’s the story  (and tons of photos) from my ten-day trek.

Our guide Chandra, of Pokhara-based Friendly Trekkers Adventures, put together an itinerary for us that had us heading to the viewpoint at Poon Hill over the first few days before heading into the Annapurna Sanctuary and up to Annapurna Base Camp. On the way down we took a slightly different route for the last few days to visit the hot springs at Jhinu Danda. Click the map below to zoom in on our route.

READ NEXT: 6 Reasons You Should Hire a Trekking Guide in Nepal

Annapurna Base Camp Trek Google Map
Click to open in Google Maps

Day One: Naya Pul to Tikendinga

We started our first day with a jeep ride on winding (but mostly paved) roads from the city of Pokhara to the village of Naya Pul. When we arrived it was pouring rain so we tried to wait it out at a roadside tea shop. We couldn’t wait forever, so we set out into the deluge through Naya Pul.  As we walked for a few hours on a newer gravel jeep road above a rushing river, the rain gradually stopped and the sun came out. We stopped for lunch at a roadside trekkers restaurant before carrying on to our destination for the night, the guesthouse at Tikendinga. That night as we ate in the guesthouse dining room it poured rain. Again. It was monsoon season in Nepal and we were walking in it.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Our first steps on the trek: walking the muddy streets of Naya Pul
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Trekking beside terraced rice fields on our first day
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Sanker Guest House in Tikendinga – our first guesthouse on the trail.

Day Two: Tikendinga to Ghorepani

On our second day, it rained on and off but was mostly just hot and humid. We started the day with a stiff climb up thousands of stone stairs to the village of Ulleri where we stopped for a well-deserved cold drink. The remainder of the day was spent trekking steadily uphill through the jungle and we met our first of many heavily-laden donkey trains. There are no roads in this region so unless it is grown there, everything comes in on the back of a donkey or a person. Want a beer, some chocolate, stove fuel, building supplies or a new toilet? It all comes in on the back of a donkey. At the end, of the day we finally reached the hill top town of Ghorepani but unfortunately the usual panoramic views were obscured by clouds. Instead, we celebrated with pizza featuring wild mushrooms the guesthouse owners had just gathered that morning.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Trekking in the jungle
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
One of the many donkey trains. The lead donkey gets to wear a showgirl-esque headpiece.
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Arriving at the gates of Ghorepani

Day Three: Ghorepani to Tadapani via Poon Hill

On our third morning, we were up well before the sun to make the three-kilometer trek (without our packs thankfully) up to the viewpoint at Poon Hill. When we arrived the sun had already started to rise but most of the views were obscured by clouds. We bought hot cups of tea and settled down to wait it out at the advice our guide, even as many of our fellow trekkers retreated back down the hill. Our guide was right! After a couple hours, most of the clouds had cleared and we had amazing views of the Annapurna range as well as Dhaulagiri massif. We finally pried ourselves away from the views and headed back down to breakfast in Ghorepani before shouldering our packs. The day’s trek through the jungle took us across ridges and down a forested canyon before we arrived at Tadapani in near darkness. It had been a long day on the trail and we were exhausted, which perhaps explains why we found it hilarious that the resident guesthouse cat was chasing the resident guesthouse rat under the table while we waited for dinner to be served.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Clouds obscure most of the views at first light at Poon Hill
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
After the sun came out we had amazing views of Dhauligiri from Poon Hill
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Gazing across to the Annapurna peaks from Poon Hill
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Our group celebrates the beautiful weather at Poon Hill
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
One of the many cascades along the jungle trail

Day Four: Tadapani to Sinuwa

On the morning of day four, my alarm wasn’t due to go off for at least half an hour when there was a knock at the door. It was our guide, Chandra urging us to get up to look at the beautiful view. Unbeknownst to us in the dark and clouds the night before, our rooms had an incredible view of the mountains. After breakfast, we trekked through numerous small villages, past terraced fields of millet, corn, beans and squash and across several suspension bridges. The day was wet and cloudy and we had our first real encounters with the scourge of monsoon-season hiking: leeches, known as “juka” in Nepali. In wet areas they kept crawling up our boots, into our socks and then sometimes biting our ankles if we didn’t catch them first. We stopped often for quick leech checks where Chandra would sometimes pluck them off our boots socks before we even noticed they were there. “Juka” wasn’t the only Nepali word we learned that day; “ukalo” (uphill) and “oralo” (downhill) were also important as we discovered that this part of Nepal is never flat. After what seemed like eons of climbing and descending stone steps, we finally arrived in Sinuwa for the night, glad to get off our tired (and leech-bitten!) feet.

READ NEXT: 8 Things I Wish I Knew Before Going Trekking in Nepal

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Waking up to beautiful mountain views from the guesthouse balcony at Tadapani
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Crossing one of the many suspension bridges
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Trekking through terraced fields in the rain and mist
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Descending the stone stairs into Chhomrong, one of the biggest villages on our trek

Day Five: Sinuwa to Deurali

The weather cleared a little bit when we woke up in Sinuwa and we were able to look back across the valley to Chhomrong spread out across the hilltop, where we had lunch the day before. Distances in this part of the world are deceiving as it takes a long time to get anywhere, even if it looks close. On this day we trekked alongside the Modi Khola (river), sometimes along its banks and sometimes high above them in the jungle. We would be following this river all the way to its source at Annapurna Base Camp. It rained hard on this day and there were several rickety bridges over swollen streams to cross that even our guide had never seen at such high water levels. Occasionally the misty weather would clear and we would get amazing views of the impossibly steep green hills rising from the river striped with innumerable waterfalls caused by the ongoing monsoon rains. That evening as we relaxed with cups of hot tea in the dining room at our guesthouse, the clouds started to lift for the first time that day and the mountains glowed pink with the sunset.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Our guesthouse in Lower Sinuwa. Most guesthouses are run by people from the Gurung ethnic group who are Buddhist so they often have prayer flags. Also they often have satellite dishes because everyone loves TV 😉
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Looking back across to Chhomrong, the hill town were we had lunch the day before. It looks close but it took hours to get to Sinuwa from there.
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Trekking through the misty jungle high above the Modi Khola (river)
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Cliffs and waterfalls above our guesthouse in Deurali
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
The pink-tinged mountains at sunset, as seen from the patio outside our guesthouse in Deurali

Day Six: Deurali to Annapurna Base Camp

Day six was the day we were finally going to get there, finally going to get to our high point of Annapurna Base Camp! The day started off cloudy and dark and none of us were in a good mood after the intense rain of the day before. Again, the rain came in on and off but like the previous day, sometimes the mist parted enough to give us views. We stopped for a long lunch at the guesthouse Machapuchare Base Camp to wait out the rain, but it wouldn’t quit so we headed out into it. For the first time on our trek, it was actually quite cold and we bundled up into our rain gear, put our heads down and slogged up the final hill. The mist was dense and we couldn’t see a thing, but eventually we came upon a sign welcoming us to Annapurna Base Camp. A few meters further up the hill the warm, dry guesthouse awaited us. As had become our routine, we changed into dry clothes and ordered a huge pot of spicy Nepali tea to warm up. The rain and mist let up a little bit so we went outside to check out the prayer flag draped viewpoint. We still couldn’t see much of the area around us, let alone any of the mountains so we were worried we had come all that way for no views.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Looking back downstream along the Modi Khola (river) the mist clears.
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Arriving at Annapurna Base Camp there was zero visibility. (That’s our guide Chandra in the standard Nepali rain gear: a plastic sheet. It seems to work quite well!)
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Exploring the viewpoint above the guesthouses of Annapurna Base Camp. We stayed in the one with the red roof.

Day Seven: Annapurna Base Camp to Bamboo

Chandra woke us up with a knock on the door just as the first light was beginning to creep into the sky. I peeked out the window and couldn’t see any clouds. Could it be? Could there be views? We got dressed quickly and met up with Chandra in the courtyard where plenty of other trekkers were already milling around. It was incredible: we were in a huge treeless glacial bowl surrounded by snow-covered mountains, all of them over 7000m tall. We made the quick walk back over to the viewpoint where we watched as the sun continued to rise, bathing the tops of the peaks in glowing light. After taking one million photos (approximately) it was time to return to the guesthouse to have breakfast, pack up and hit the trail. As we left Base Camp the clouds started to move in, obscuring the mountains. Even though we didn’t want to, it was time to go. The sun was really out for the first time in days and the trail back down to Machapuchare Base Camp was gorgeous in the sunshine (especially since it had been shrouded in fog the day before). We retraced our steps down the path next to the Modi Khola in the jungle, recrossing some of the scary bridges from the previous day and marvelling at how much less water was flowing in the streams since it was no longer raining. That night we stayed in the dark and dense bamboo forests at the Bamboo guesthouse – quite a contrast to the wide open sunny landscapes of that morning.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
The view of Annapurna from the viewpoint near Annapurna Base Camp
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Looking back at Annapurna Base Camp from the top of the viewpoint with Machapuchare in behind.
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
The sun lighting up Annapurna
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Machapuchare seen through the prayer flags of the viewpoint
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
It was hard to leave our guesthouse at Annapurna Base Camp when the weather was this beautiful
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
The clouds started to move in, obscuring the mountains, as we left Annapurna Base Camp
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Trekking back down the valley after leaving Annapurna Base Camp. The tall mountain is Machapuchare (in Nepali it means Fishtail).
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Heading downhill on the trail in the Modi Khola valley – it looked a lot different in sunshine!
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Crossing one of the sketchy bamboo bridges. This stream is much less swollen in this photo than the previous day but there was still a lot of angry looking water.

Day Eight: Bamboo to Jihnu Danda Hot Springs

We knew what we were in for on this day since we had done most of the route before: ukalo and oralo (uphill and downhill) on stone steps. We followed the Modi Khola back downstream past our previous guesthouse at Sinuwa, down to cross the Chhomrong Khola on a loooong suspension bridge, then back up up up the 2000 stairs through the village of Chhomrong. We stopped in Chhomrong again for lunch and watched as a couple of donkey trains came through the village, bells jangling. After lunch we plunged back downhill again on one of the steepest trails yet, heading to the guesthouses at Jhinu Danda. We checked into our rooms (the first ones with ensuite bathrooms since Ghorepani way back on day two – what luxury!), dropped our packs and headed downhill even more to the banks of the Modi Khola where we found the Jhinu Danda hot springs. The high water levels of the river meant that some of the pools were full of river water and sand and therefore unusable, but the highest pool was still functioning. We soaked until it got dark and it was time for dinner. The warm muggy weather made the 30-minute uphill climb back to the guesthouse a little less pleasant as we got our freshly cleaned selves all sweaty again.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Our guesthouse deep in the valley of the Modi Khola at Bamboo
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Heading downhill to the looong suspension bridge over the Chhomrong Khola. You can see the stone steps heading up into the town of Chhomrong on the other side.
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Watching a fully laden donkey train descend the stone steps in Chhomrong.
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Soaking in the Jhinu Danda Hot Springs on the banks of the Modi Khola

READ: What to Pack for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Day Nine: Jihnu Danda Hot Springs to Allure Hill

Our penultimate day on the trail was very hot and muggy. We headed down from Jhinu Danda, crossing several smaller bridges before arriving at New Bridge, the location of a guest house settlement called New Bridge as well as a long wooden decked suspension bridge that at some time must have been new but now definitely is not. It has a slippery wooden deck with some misaligned planks and the whole thing lists to the right. It was one of the more intimidating bridges we crossed on the whole trip (but apparently it is scheduled to be replaced soon). After crossing New Bridge we headed downstream following the river on the opposite bank. Now that we were back at a lower elevation with warmer weather and thick vegetation, the juka (leeches) were out in full force so we didn’t really enjoy the waterfalls, farms and lush vegetation the way we should have. The heat also became quite oppressive and as we started to climb out of the river valley into the hills, it became apparent that I had heat stroke and was quite ill. We stopped for lunch and a long rest at a guesthouse. After lunch, the weather started to cool down so I began to feel better but Chandra still had to carry some of my gear because I was still weak. We met up with a newer gravel jeep road that had obliterated the trail in most places. We followed the road for the rest of the day as the scorching hot morning turned into a damp and foggy late afternoon. Due to my illness, we hadn’t covered as much ground as planned so we stopped at a brand new guesthouse on Allure Hill that Chandra knew about rather than sticking to our original itinerary.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Crossing the long and intimidating New Bridge
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
A large waterfall along the juka-filled riverside portion of the day’s hike
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
The view from the new jeep road
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Walking into the mist along the new jeep road

Day Ten: Allure Hill to Dhampus

The plan on our last day was to finish walking the new jeep road to the village of Pothana where we would pick up a series of trails that would take us down to the town of Dhampus and then down to Phedi, a town on the outskirts of the city of Pokhara where we could catch a bus back to our hotel in the city. Alas, it was not to be as that morning I developed a case of gastroenteritis, aka Delhi Belly, aka horrible stomach flu. It was probably due to being weak from the heat stroke the day before since no one else got sick and we all ate and drank the same things. I took a ton of anti-nausea meds, anti-diarrhea meds and antibiotics, handed my pack off to Chandra and set out to hike our last day on the trail. I don’t remember much about this day as I was just trying to keep it together. From what I do recall, we followed the jeep road for awhile into Pothana where we stopped for a break. At that point, we asked Chandra to call ahead to hire a 4×4 jeep to meet up in Dhampus where there was a rough road we could take as I didn’t want to walk more than I had to. We walked downhill on beautiful old stone paths to Dhampus where our jeep met us. Suddenly, before I was ready for it, our trek was over. Even though I was sick and just wanted to lay down and sleep (near a toilet!), I couldn’t believe we were headed to a hotel in the city, not to a guesthouse on a hillside with mountain views poking through the mist.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Water buffalo grazing along the side of the jeep road. (Photo credit: Cynthia Lim)
Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp
Walking the old stone path down to Dhampus. That’s me in the purple with no pack and Chandra in front of me carrying my red pack as well as his own. Thanks Chandra! (Photo credit: Cynthia Lim)

After our trek, I spent a day in bed in our Pokhara hotel recovering while the others went sightseeing. Then it was back to Kathmandu to see the sights.

Overall, trekking to Annapurna Base Camp was such a special experience, unlike any of the other backpacking trips I have been on. It wasn’t just the guesthouse aspect where we stayed indoors and had hot meals three times a day (although that was awesome) or the grand scale of the mountains, so much taller than the ones I am used to; it was the cultural experience of trekking from village to village where people actually live and farm the land, far from roads, hospitals, malls and everything we think is an essential part of life. (Although they do have cell phones and satellite TV – they think those are essential too!) Unlike backpacking in the wilderness of Canada where nature is the only focus, trekking to Annapurna Base Camp puts the focus on the people, the culture, and the rural landscape but then juxtaposes that with the sweeping views of impossibly high peaks and the densely forested jungle between the villages. It’s unique. It’s amazing. You should go.

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